La Foresteria di San Leo, Trivigno, Potenza Province, Basilicata

I admit that I am very partial to this area because my ancestral villages are nearby. In the uncontaminated high-altitude air of central Basilicata, where no polluting industry spews smog or contaminates, and where farming is still the primary industry, La Foresteria di San Leo proudly and lovingly maintains the long-standing traditions of the area - in their agricultural practices, the products they produce, and the kitchen.

We received a genuinely warm greeting from Maria Giovanna and Peppino, who made us immediately feel right at home. Our apartment was a compact two bedroom, with an all-in-one kitchen/dining/living room, a spacious bathroom, a nice-sized room with queen bed, and a smaller bedroom with two twin beds. A covered portal had an outdoor table and chairs for lounging or dining al fresco. Some family antiques were mixed in with the new furniture, including an old cabinet once used by a shopkeeper to contain four types of pastas, reborn as a deep-drawered dresser. The wood floors lent a warm, rustic touch.

The galley kitchen was small but functional and we cooked several meals here. It contained an electric 4-burner stovetop and a countertop toaster oven, along with all the basic cookware and utensils necessary. Nice glassware and dishware was provided, and a delicious homemade ricotta torte welcomed us, along with a cruet of local olive oil.

Satellite TV was provided, and wireless internet was in the process of being installed as we were departing. There is a swimming pool with ample outdoor sun space, but we were there too early in the season to take advantage of it. The grounds are nice and there are ample places to meander, enjoy lounging with a book, or take in the views. The farm encompasses 200 hectares, where they grow wheat and barley, have extensive fruit and nut orchards, and raise sheep for pecorino cheese, wool, and meat. The roads are great for country walks.

And what views! Unobstructed vistas take in the dramatic, craggy Dolomiti Lucane and surrounding mountains, and tumbled down to the steep valley of the Camastra River. The silence is complete, save for the chirping birds and tinkling sheep bells.

San Leo offers two apartments: our small two-bedroom and a larger, more luxurious two-bedroom which has a spacious living area, a large kitchen, two bathrooms, and an enormous panoramic terrace. Next time, I want that apartment! There are also two suites and three rooms utilized like a bed and breakfast. I eyed the breakfast buffet and it looked delicious, with an assortment of home-baked goodies, fresh cheese from the farm, prosciutto, thick, crusty bread, along with juices and coffee.

I can’t say enough about the sweet and welcoming owners. They were truly wonderful, and after our two-week stay we left feeling like part of the family. We would return again solely to see them and enjoy their amazing cuisine. Anything we needed was provided immediately upon request. Maria Giovanna cooks up a storm of traditional dishes and presents them with pride. She conducts cooking classes upon request at a very reasonable fee; they sell the products from the farm like jams and cheeses.

Trivigno is a very small town but has all the basic services you need and we found people to be very kind, if a little amused by the foreigners' presence. There are no restaurants in town, but there are several very good down-home type of restaurants in the general area where you can eat Lucanian fare at cheap prices. (And of course Maria Giovanna's in-house restaurant open by reservation is a must for at least one meal during your stay!)

You must take a somewhat a windy road to reach Trivigno, but it is convenient to the superstrada, and in a good position for exploring central Basilicata and the dramatic, beautiful towns of Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa. Potenza is a half-hour away; Matera about 1 1/2 hours. Aliano, Craco, Acerenza, Castel Lagopesole, Melfi and Venosa are worthwhile visiting.

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