A Slow Week in Alghero and North West Sardinia

by Peter Ryder, Alghero Guide, May 2009

Beach near Alghero, Sardinia

On any map of the Mediterranean, the Italian island of Sardinia is easy to spot being shaped like a foot and lying between Corsica and Sicily.

Visitors are often surprised at the size of Sardinia - it is pretty much the size of Wales or West Virginia (but has the advantage of 1800km of mostly unspoilt coastline). For this reason the concept of attempting to see the island on a weeks trip is certainly not "slow".

Here I will concentrate on the north west of the island, where I live, which for a weeks visit should offer plenty to see, but also time to relax, find your favourite beach and slow down.

Getting There

Air: Alghero airport is now a Ryanair hub with connections to the UK, Germany, Scandinavia, France, Spain and the Italian mainland (including Rome and Pisa).
Sea: Ferries run from Genoa, Civitavecchia (Rome) and Madrid.

When to Visit

I am fortunate to live here so my favourites are probably the nice bright winter days, however for most visitors consistent good weather (and a warmer sea) are better. Probably the best months are between May and October, whilst avoiding August if you can (see below).

Tourist Friendly?

Despite the perceptions fostered by the glitzy Costa Smeralda (in the north east), most of Sardinia is remarkably unsophisticated and undeveloped in tourism terms. For visitors this is both its attraction and its occasional frustration: public transport is poor, English is not widely spoken and outside of the main tourism hotspots (and even there out of the Italian holiday season) most things close for the pranzo/siesta (lunch and kip!) ritual. However for this reason it is still, for the most part, authentically "Sardinian".

Getting Around

Alghero, Sardinia

Rent a car and you'll certainly soon feel a long way from the daily commute and office. The roads are generally good and, outside of the towns of Sassari and Alghero, not that busy.

Driving styles range from the occasional bit of pure Italian testosterone (normally encouraged by a hidden bend to add a bit of excitement) to drivers who crawl along as they undertake their second favourite past time - talking (their first of course is ... eating).

For the same reasons a bike (motor or pedal power) is attractive for some.

One note of caution - if you are arriving on a late flight, a B&B near the airport for the first night is a good idea, or take a taxi/bus into Alghero. Many of the roads are (thankfully environmentally) unlit and night-time driving can be difficult.

Language

An Italian phrase book, or a little Italian will get you a long way, however in many areas it won't be the language you hear used by the locals. Sardinia has its own ancient language Sarda, which itself has different dialects in adjoining towns. In the more tourist orientated Alghero English is spoken, but Catalan is widely used (even the street signs appear in Italian and Catalan). In other areas however just a few words of Italian should open up some interesting and potentially amusing conversations!

Places to See

I will highlight some places to see and visit, but due to Sardinia's relatively sparce population and beautiful coastlines and countryside, you'll probably just stumble upon your personal favourite spots.

Main Attractions (alphabetical)

Alghero: Being distinctly Spanish in style has led to it being known as Barcellonetta (Little Barcelona). It has an attractive historic centre surrounded by sea fortifications and a large tourist harbour. Boat trips run to Capo Caccia and Grotto di Nettuno.

Bosa: Medieval town at estuary of Temo river with remains of castle above. Distinctive five storey historic houses. Limited beach area 2km away. Very nice coastal drive from Alghero.

Castelsardo, view from centro storico

Castelsardo: Visually the most stunning town with castle and historic centre on steep coastal outcrop. Pleasant port area with limited facilities (one bar and a supermarket) but plenty of restaurants some with great views around the historic centre. Small but pleasant town beach and longer beach in Lu Bagnu.

Stintino/La Pelosa: Small town with harbour side cafes/restaurants. Nearby La Pelosa beach is possibly the most photographed on the island and gets busy from June-September when parking can be problematic.

Palau/Maddalena: A short drive from Palau is Capo D'Orso (Bear Rock) reached up a stepped walkway, worth the climb for stunning views over the Maddalena penisula. From Palau you can also take a short (30 minutes) ferry across to La Maddalena, the main island, with your car.

Santa Teresa: Primarily known as the place to get a ferry across to Bonifacio in Corsica. Probably best to go as foot passenger due to insurance issues on taking a rented car to France.

Isola Rossa: Nice tourist harbour with dinghy rental, pleasant restaurants and nice beaches with red sandstone backdrop.

Golf of Asinara: Between Porto Torres and Punta Tramontana there are 18km of uninterrupted sandy beaches which only get busy in August. Popular with windsurfers when the mistral blows in. Numerous small beach side bars.

Grotto di Nettuno/Capo Caccia: Capo Caccia is a nature reserve and below it are the caves of Grotto di Nettuno, accessible down 300 steps or by boat from Alghero.

Palmavera: Frankly not the best example of a nuraghe (unique to Sardinia Bronze age defensive tower) with remains of surrounding settlement. However it is adjacent to the road that takes you to Capo Caccia. The best nuraghe's are in the centre of the island (e.g. Unesco world heritage site at Barumini).

What not to do!

Do not visit in August. Mainland Italy decamps onto Sardinia around the 15th of August (Ferragosta) and therefore the coastlines become to us very busy (i.e. the same as most other parts of the Med in May-September). However the mainland Italians obsession over distance to the beach means inland can still be an attractive option.
Do not just stay in Alghero. Due to its proximity to the airport this is a mistake that many make but to see Alghero is not to see Sardinia. It has its own attractions and particular style but it is just part of the mix and it is of course generally far busier than the rest of the island.
Do not feel intimidated by loud conversations. What may appear to be a heated argument is most likely about how the participants mothers cook a particular pasta dish (combining their first and second favourite activities can get the locals quite excited!).
Do not be tempted to drive into Sassari. Unless you are a very confident driver you'll probably get lost or stressed.
Do not miss out on seeing any local festa's or parades. Easter is the most well known festa, but others occur throughout the summer season in most (all) towns in Sardinia. They combine traditional costumes, bands and a little religious solemnity. Major events include the Cavalcata, a parade of horseman from throughout the island with local costumes held in Sassari in May. Castelsardo is particularly famous for its New Year celebrations with fireworks cascading over the castle ramparts and live (Sardinian) bands and its Easter parades in its historic centre.