10 Days in Northern Italy in September: Railing from Turin to Verona

[AWood]

Hi

First time posting on the SlowEurope Forum, so hopefully I’m doing this correctly

My girlfriend and I will be holidaying in northern Italy in September, flying in to Turin, basing ourselves there for 4/5 days, before then heading to Verona, where we will base ourselves for the last 4 days. Allowing a day for travelling from A to B plus packing… leisurely espressos etc.

We want to explore both cities however looking for perhaps some day trip suggestions for both locations plus any recommended stop offs for when we travel from Turin to Verona.

My girlfriend and I love exploring, wandering about new places. From the obvious to the off the beaten track.
We love art, architecture, culture and not a stranger to sipping a glass of wine while people watching.

Thanks everyone, Andy

 

[Mark]

Welcome to the forum Andy.
Daytrips from Verona
Wine regions
Valpolicella
Soave
Gambellara

Towns
Padua
Vicenza

Stops on the way From Turin to Verona
Lake Garda town of Sermione

Let me know if you need any additional info as far as sights in the towns as well as wineries to visit,

I'm sure Ian Sutton will chime in as he is the resident Turin expert.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Expert is too strong a word, but after maybe 13 or 14 holidays including Torino in the itinerary, it's clearly a place I like.

Always worth a search for festivals and other events. Unfortunately the Giaveno funghi festival is in October, and the massive 'Salone del gusto' probably too late, in the last week of September, but there will be other such events.
e.g. Gran balon (monthly) antiques fair https://www.guidatorino.com/eventi-torino/il-gran-balon-2024-09-08/ (8th sept), plus a comic fair on the 10th

Some grand old houses to visit e.g. hunting lodge at Stupinigi, plus the more convenient / obvious buildings around the castello. Not our thing, but they remain popular.

There are museums, but Torino has a few quirky / different ones, incuding Pietro Micca / underground tours, museum of the mountains across the river in the fancier La Collina district.

Asti / Alba / Novara / Milano / Ivrea (and others) are in range of a day trip, but also on the outskirts of the city I'll throw in Basilica di Superga, with the old very steep rack railway up there an experience in its own right

Perhaps best of all though, is to give mornings or afternoons to different districts e.g. morning visit to the big market at Piazza della Repubblica, followed by a stroll through the old Quadrilatero district, followed by an afternoon in 'centro', including Via Garibaldi which is a vibrant strolling street for the evening. Then a morning in La Crocetta before heading down to see the Lingotto. It's a very functional city, so find what appeals, then plan stuff around the local area. Saturdays and Sundays often have specialist markets, some of which are very good.

Transport is a work of art (or a lunatic) in Torino, with the city's transport map mesmerising. Apps no doubt take hard work out, but I still love plotting my own routes on the various criss-crossing routes, many of which work within the one-way system, so return on a different street to which you departed. Trams form the backbone, supported by buses, the somewhat limited metro system, suburban trains, and even a ferry. That said, it's a good city to walk around, and some days I'd forego public transport.

Early evening 'aperitivo hour' certainly worth exploring, for often generous snacks for the price of a drink. Ask locally for what's currently good.

Food is superb in the city, be it restaurants or specialist food shops. Loving the latter so much we invariably get an apartment. If doing the same, a search on this forum should find a google map entitled torino food explorer, which will be somewhat out of date now, but turnover isn't excessive, so most should still be around.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Daytrips from Verona
Soave

All Mark's suggestions are good, but I especially picked out Soave: linked by train to Verona, has a charming historical centre and felt lovely and relaxed. I wished we'd set aside more time to explore it.

The opera season should be on, and it is a very memorable experience in the open air arena, and don't skimp on hiring cushions - the seating is firm for sure, and 4+ hours leaves its mark!

Verona itself a bit touristy for my liking, with noticeably a lot of high end luxury goods shops. However I reckon outside of the centre would reveal more of the soul of the place than a central wander would show. I'm not sure where to recommend, but I'd be looking for interesting suburbs.

 

[Ian Sutton]

p.s. for wine, Torino can be a good chance to taste 'off the beaten track' in grape varieties e.g. Brachetto (somewhat like a red moscato, and my favourite aperitivo 'energiser' after a busy day; Nascetta & Pelaverga from Barolo area; Vespolina and Erbaluce from the north (or Fumin from valle d'aosta); Timorasso, Freisa or Grignolino out east, plus loads more.

Sadly our favourite wine bar / shop (Antica enoteca del borgo) shut a few years ago, but there are lots of good options in the city and its suburbs

 

[Mark]

If you go to Soave, try and get an appointment at Pieropan

, arguably the best winery in Soave.
If you do go to Soave make sure you walk up to the castle and bring a picnic lunch with views over the vineyards

 

[JJH]

Hello,

I stayed in Padua in May 2023. I took the following daytrips using public transportation:

Lake Garda (Bardolino / Garda)
Verona
Soave
Bassano del Grappa
Vicenza
Venice

I really enjoyed Lake Garda, Bassano del Grappa and Soave. As Mark mentioned, if you like walking/hiking- recommend walking to the castle above the town. I walked/hiked amongst the vineyards behind the castle for a couple hours. It's a beautiful setting. In addition to Mark's winery recommendation of Pieropan, I would look for these other wineries on wine lists: Gini, Suavia and Pra.


I stayed in Turin in May 2022. I took the following daytrips using public transportation:

Asti
Alba
Ivrea
Susa

I really enjoyed Turin and my daytrips to Asti, Alba and Ivrea.

Have a great trip!

 

[AWood]

Thank you, everyone, for time taken to respond and provide fantastic holiday suggestions.

I was saying to my girlfriend, suggestions provided have really whet the appetite to explore northern Italy. We go in September, so trying to be cool, avoid peaking with our own deep diving research however I fear I just might not be able to help myself.

Ian, I think I saw one of your older posts (apologies if it was someone else on chain) assisting another explorer on the Forum, where you suggested Loger Confort Residence & Apartments as a place to stay in Turin - we’ve now booked a room, here. We found finding a place to stay in Verona a bit more difficult due to fewer hotels and more Air B&Bs. Finding a place that meet’s my girlfriend’s approval is always the hurdle when booking trips… I’d sleep under a tree, but standards must be maintained. We’re all booked up, now, thankfully.

Mark, Padua and Vicenza, look lovely. We definitely plan on a day trip to Venice once across in Verona, which I suspect won’t be nearly enough time, however really fancy one of wine regions suggested plus one of the Lake Garda towns, so we need to use our days wisely. How we’re going to squeeze in Bologna, no idea. Nice problems to have.

JJH, thanks for the Turin day trip suggestions. I think with the first leg, based on the west coast, we’ll spend more time exploring our city base, with maybe just the one or two at a push, day trips. Asti seems to be the one folk are generally recommending, so chuffed you too, mention here.

Checking the Opera season events, unfortunately I think the fortnight we are in Turin, we miss everything as in between productions Does anyone know if Opera productions only happen Teatro Regio… or is my research lens a bit too narrow, maybe, events held elsewhere?

Thanks again, folks. Really appreciate your assistance!

Andy

 

[Ian Sutton]

In addition to Mark's winery recommendation of Pieropan, I would look for these other wineries on wine lists: Gini, Suavia and Pra.

A massive thumbs up to Gini from me. All those named are very good, but for me their own roots old vine contrada salvarenza Soave is very special, and yet is still relatively modestly priced. Add to that, a very engaging visit, with an unusually broad range of wines, and warm hospitality. We've enjoyed some wonderful winery visits and yet theirs would probably be in the top 10% for the experience. They're a little way out of Soave itself in Monteforte d'Alpone from memory, so possibly a taxi from soave to get there?

IIRC Anselmi are near the centre, but also have a restaurant in Soave itself (we ended up tasting there instead). The wines a bit more rebellious, including some oak influence and even a little Chardonnay in with the Garganega. I think most of their range operates outside the Soave appellation as a result of this rebelliousness. I like them as a point of contrast to other good producers.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Thank you, everyone, for time taken to respond and provide fantastic holiday suggestions.

I was saying to my girlfriend, suggestions provided have really whet the appetite to explore northern Italy. We go in September, so trying to be cool, avoid peaking with our own deep diving research however I fear I just might not be able to help myself.

Ian, I think I saw one of your older posts (apologies if it was someone else on chain) assisting another explorer on the Forum, where you suggested Loger Confort Residence & Apartments as a place to stay in Turin - we’ve now booked a room, here. We found finding a place to stay in Verona a bit more difficult due to fewer hotels and more Air B&Bs. Finding a place that meet’s my girlfriend’s approval is always the hurdle when booking trips… I’d sleep under a tree, but standards must be maintained. We’re all booked up, now, thankfully.

yes, I'd happily recommend Loger Confort. Wonderful location, maybe 3 mins walk from where the airport bus drops off near Stazione Porta Nuova. Apartments a nice balance of modernity with nice antique touches. Plus especially useful for 1st time visitors, the staff are available downstairs to advise / help etc.

For Verona, glad to see you found a place. We stayed well outside, on a wine estate (Massimago near Mezzane di Sotto). Compact apartments, but stunning grounds, lovely pool, and an exceptional breakfast. We initially didn't have a car, and although there is public transport, we took a taxi in and back for the opera, and then to pick the hire car up (we then drove up to Trentino for a few days). Not really suitable if Verona is the focus, but might be worth considering if you return.

Checking the Opera season events, unfortunately I think the fortnight we are in Turin, we miss everything as in between productions Does anyone know if Opera productions only happen Teatro Regio… or is my research lens a bit too narrow, maybe, events held elsewhere?

Thanks again, folks. Really appreciate your assistance!

Andy

It looks like the verona arena season ends earlier this year, compared to when we visited, 9th Sept being the last date listed https://www.arena.it/en/arena-di-verona/calendar, but maybe more dates might get added? FWIW Aida is on this year, and that's the one we saw, a recreation of the version performed 100 years ago, including white horses leading the procession, and a cast well into the 100s. The venue stunning and acoustics remarkably good for open air.

For torino, The local tourist office is decent, but doesn't always list everything. It looks like they've not even got the restart of 2024 season listed https://www.turismotorino.org/it/es...logia_evento_target_id_1=10274&title=#results

Certainly worth trying google searches for opera + Torino, to see if it throws anything else up, and indeed I always try to do a wider search for eventi + Torino, as we've had great joy from a variety of events in Italy.
Loads of great options to eat, but I'll specifically throw in a great lunchtime option (either eat there, or buy in the shop to heat up at home) https://www.pastificiodefilippis.it/ Long established, and seemingly never letting quality slip. Superb fresh pasta, and pleasing when locals still recommend it. It's very much walkable from Via XX settembre, going eastwards onto via lagrange (an increasingly fancy pedestrianised street).

 

[susan]

If you do visit Soave, I highly recommend getting a gelato at Caffe Cremeria Mattielli. I spent time exploring the castle in Soave with friends back in 2006. I can't believe it was so long ago now! My gelato from Caffe Cremeria Mattielli was very memorable. At the time, I rated it as one of the best I've had in Italy. I ordered the mango & fragola (strawberry). Really intense flavors! The town is also cute.

Here's my blog post about my visit to Soave (middle of the post) along with some photos.

 

[NoSpin]

When in Turin, one word - Bicerin.

Go to Caffe al Bicerin for their namesake beverage.

A drink of coffee, hot chocolate and cream. We also had their signature Bicerin chocolate torte. I guess there's a reason this caffe has been around for over 250 years. Delicious!

 

[Ian Sutton]

Go to Caffe al Bicerin for their namesake beverage.

A drink of coffee, hot chocolate and cream. We also had their signature Bicerin chocolate torte. I guess there's a reason this caffe has been around for over 250 years. Delicious!

and this also our favourite of the legendary cafes in Torino. The most 'mundane' of them (the others are grander, more ostentatious), but with that comes wonderful timeless cosiness. It's on Piazza della Consolata, and we'll often detour there after visiting the big market at Piazza della Repubblica. On the walk from market to cafe, you'll pass a decent bread shop, and also a super erboristera, plus a few other shops, and it's a relatively quiet walk, which is nice after the bustle of the market.

 

[braindoc]

A massive thumbs up to Gini from me. All those named are very good, but for me their own roots old vine contrada salvarenza Soave is very special, and yet is still relatively modestly priced. Add to that, a very engaging visit, with an unusually broad range of wines, and warm hospitality. We've enjoyed some wonderful winery visits and yet theirs would probably be in the top 10% for the experience. They're a little way out of Soave itself in Monteforte d'Alpone from memory, so possibly a taxi from soave to get there?

IIRC Anselmi are near the centre, but also have a restaurant in Soave itself (we ended up tasting there instead). The wines a bit more rebellious, including some oak influence and even a little Chardonnay in with the Garganega. I think most of their range operates outside the Soave appellation as a result of this rebelliousness. I like them as a point of contrast to other good producers.

Another vote for Gini. We were there with another couple in 2018. The wines were great. It happened to be the first year they released an Amarone from their property in Valpolicella. We still have a couple of bottles of that as well as their Soave.

 

[wco81]

When in Turin, one word - Bicerin.

Go to Caffe al Bicerin for their namesake beverage.

A drink of coffee, hot chocolate and cream. We also had their signature Bicerin chocolate torte. I guess there's a reason this caffe has been around for over 250 years. Delicious!

Just looked it up, sounds like it's a local drink, not necessarily a specialty at one establishment?

Or just a lot of copycats?

 

[Camille]

In Turin, a must-see is the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, designed by the architect-mathematician-priest Guarino Guarini, which re-opened a few years ago after a decades-long restoration.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Just looked it up, sounds like it's a local drink, not necessarily a specialty at one establishment?

Or just a lot of copycats?

Invented at Al Bicerin, but now more widely made