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43M Solo Trip to Tuscany – Base in Florence or Split Stay? Travel, Food & Wine Ideas Needed

AdamLtissom

New Member
43M traveling solo with a medium budget, planning a trip to Italy and trying to figure out the best way to explore Tuscany—thinking of staying in Florence and visiting places like Siena, Lucca, and San Gimignano along the way.

Not sure how to structure it—better to base in one city or split between a couple? And how important is it to rent a car for Tuscany vs using trains or joining tours?

Also really interested in the food and wine side—any must-try local dishes or wines I shouldn’t miss? Is it worth doing organized tastings, or is it easy enough to just explore and find good spots on your own?
 
Time of year can be a factor, as the countryside has stronger appeal in the warmer months, cities in the cooler.

Length of stay influences our decision on bases. The longer the stay, the more desire to change the 'base', so the everyday has a different feel to it. How long does vary between people, but between 4 and 7 days isn't a bad benchmark, though in more energetic days we'd have the odd 3 day stay.

Events can be ideal for a solo traveller, be they festivals, exhibitions, organised walks, tastings etc. It's a bit of an effort to find these, but IME that time is well spent for the experiences, and where you'll get to meet Italians as much as other tourists. Indeed we've in the past let them drive the scheduling / location of our holidays. The tourist offices usually have a solid listing of them, but there are other aggregator sites, or just individual listings. I tend to look at the same time 1 year prior to our likely stay, to pick up on annual events. Try to seek out locally run organised day trips for a better mix of locals / Italian tourists / international tourists. As a solo traveller, they'll help give you that regular interaction, and also offer the option of meeting up with people you got on with, for a meal or a drink later in the week.

We did a 3 location trip to Tuscany, taking in Montepulciano, Siena and Pisa as bases.

Perhaps surprisingly Siena was the least of them in our eyes, as we found it an odd combination of a rather reserved banking city, combined with a strong thread of mass tourism. Occasional super highlights e.g. the Saturday morning farmer's market where everything we tried was genuinely excellent.

Pisa too suffers from mass tourism, with two decidedly crass threads of it from either train station to the field of miracles, and around that site. When people describe Pisa as dirty/disgusting, it's because they've just experienced a half day trip with such a singular focus, and unwittingly have fuelled that problem. However head east to the city itself, and there's genuine charm, good (and surprisingly good value) food, a solid daily market, and a vibrant main shopping street for an evening passeggiata.

Montepulciano well worth considering with wine being an interest for you. Drop in tasting rooms abound (a rarity in Italy), though even booking in advance can make for a more convivial visit (e.g. when we visited Crociani's tasting room, with the industrious ladies packing loads of orders making us feel very welcome and appreciated. The wines super as well).

Lucca is lovely as well, and one of those rarities in Tuscany, of having a train station that's actually close to the centre (coaches, known locally as 'Pullman' :) ) are often the best way to travel, dropping you off in the centre. Enoteca Vanni a super wine shop and I believe they run organised tastings, so that might be one influence in trying to tie your visit into one of them.

Livorno worth considering as a day trip, with a fish soup / stew their food speciality.

Colle val d'Elsa (known rather oddly as simply 'Colle' locally) was a surprisingly good day trip for us, and enjoyable enough to consider it as a future base. Glassmaking is their big industry, but it seemed to be squarely Tuscan, but without the blemish of mass tourism.
 
I would ax San Gimignano in favor of Volterra. SG is one of my least favorite places in Italy -- an unending series of souvenir shops and shoulder-to-shoulder tourists in the streets. I know the argument that "it's wonderful at night when the tourists leave", but I'd like to enjoy a place that's wonderful in the daytime too. It's a beautiful photo from the highway; not so much once inside.

I'm always biased in favor of Lucca as a base with easy access to the hill towns and to Florence, Pisa, and the coastal towns/beaches. Lucca is easy for parking compared to the nightmare ZTLs of Florence and the congestion of Pisa (Lucca, itself, is essentially car free, but easy entry on foot from the parking areas with some free locations available). We love the freedom of driving as regards schedules and places to go versus the constraints of train schedules and routes. Every time we go through Santa Maria Novella, I feel like I'm coming out of a college football game after being subjected to the noise and physical jostling just to get through the crowd.

My choice of a base would partially be determined by what I wanted to see/do in that base, but also on where I was going on trips away from that base. How much transit time will be expended to get to a non-base destination?

Random notes -- if you are there over 30 days, that is about the break-even point on leasing versus renting a car. Regarding tours, one of our favorite ways to spend time in Lucca is to meet a friend at a bar on any of the major city squares and to watch the cruise ship tour groups being run through the city at almost a full run ;-) I'm sure they exit their tours saying, "We saw Lucca" while we are still "Seeing Lucca" after about 40 years of travel.

Late edit: "dishes I shouldn't miss" -- pappardelle al cinghiale in and around Lucca

 
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If you are thinking of renting a car, what we did was this, and I’m sharing what were a couple quiet highlights of our Tuscany trip, although those highlights were not all in Tuscany.

After Florence, and you could spend your whole life looking at art in Florence (and it is very crowded), we took a taxi to the airport and picked up a car.

1. We drove from Florence to La Verna - Franciscan Sanctuary, Via del Santuario della Verna, 45, 52010 Chiusi della Verna AR, Italy

If you love St. Frances, Catholic stuff, peace, history, views, caves, and hiking in the forest, I highly recommend a couple days' stay at the Sanctuary of La Verna. What it's like to stay in the monastery: A tiny room with two twin beds and a crucifix on the wall; perhaps the worst dinner and breakfast food in all of Italy; and co-inhabitants are walkers traversing a hard, steep pilgrimage route. Even my Italian friends have never been to La Verna.

2. We drove from La Verna to Sansepolcro, in the Province of Arezzo, to see works by artist Piero della Francesca, who was born in Sansepolcro in 1412.

2a. Two of Piero della Francesca’s most important works are preserved in the Civic Museum of Sansepolcro, housed in the medieval building. The first notable work is the Polittico della Misericordia (Polyptych of Mercy, 1445-1462), depicting the Madonna della Misericordia who welcomes under her mantle, as in a large tabernacle, the community of devotees. The second work, in the Sala dei Conservatori, is La Resurrezione (The Resurrection), a large fresco painted between 1450 and 1463 using a mixed technique of tempera and dry painting. It was restored in 2018.

2b. We then just accidentally had the best meal, of 2.5 months in Italy, in Sansepolcro.

2c. We then wandered out onto the street where a Renaissance procession in May was winding its way though quiet streets to the park. This procession was part of the Palio della Balestra (Crossbow Palio). There were no tourists. We joined the procession through town. It included historical costumed citizens, blowing of horns, beating of drums, and a few speeches. Although the main Palio competition occurs in September, there is a procession in May.

3. We drove from Sansepolcro to the Crete Senesi and stayed in Chiusure. Due to an unfortunate accommodation, we did not stay long enough to explore the Crete Senesi completely. I would recommend Crete Senesi, though, for hikes, quiet, less tourists. We had a wonderful meal in Chiusure. The chef was young and innovative.

4. We drove from Chiusure to the Arcidosso/Castel del Piano area in Grosseto, stopping for lunch in Pienza (very touristic). There are interesting things to do between Chiusure and Arcidosso. We have friends who live in Arcidosso and it was our base for 10 days. There were interesting hot springs in this area. A major highlight, if you like art, views, and good food, is the town of Santa Fiora, next to Arcidosso.

4a. The church in Santa Fiora, is renowned for its extensive collection of Della Robbias, glazed terracotta works, covering its interior walls. Located in the historic center on Monte Amiata, this Romanesque-Gothic church contains some of the most significant works of Andrea della Robbia between 1464 and 1490. Luca della Robbia (1399/1400–1482) invented a glazing technique for sculpture characterized by brilliant opaque whites and deep cerulean blues.

4b. We ate excellent, traditional, regional meals in this town when we visited on two occasions.

5. We returned our rental car in Siena. Siena was so crowded and we quickly left.

6. We took a train to Lucca. I loved Lucca. You don't need a car. We stayed a month. Florence is an easy train ride away. The coast is easily accessible too. Lucca's crowds thinned during the evenings and early morning. You can learn Italian there at the language school.
 
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Base in Florence is a solid move for a first trip—easy train access to Lucca and Siena, plus plenty to do in the city. You can split stays, but for a medium-budget solo trip it often just adds hassle.

Car vs no car: trains work for main cities, but Tuscany’s best spots (wineries, countryside, small villages) are hard without a car. Driving gives freedom, but it also means planning + no wine tastings. That’s why a lot of people mix it—train for cities, and then do a couple of organized days for countryside/food.

Food & wine: don’t miss bistecca alla fiorentina, pici pasta, ribollita. For wine—Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile. Tastings are 100% worth it if you want the full experience; random drop-ins can be hit or miss and often require reservations anyway.

If you don’t want to drive solo, something like https://toursoftuscany.it/ is a nice middle option—private tours with transport included, so you get wineries, food stops, and places like San Gimignano without dealing with logistics.
 
43M traveling solo with a medium budget, planning a trip to Italy and trying to figure out the best way to explore Tuscany—thinking of staying in Florence and visiting places like Siena, Lucca, and San Gimignano along the way.

Not sure how to structure it—better to base in one city or split between a couple? And how important is it to rent a car for Tuscany vs using trains or joining tours?

Also really interested in the food and wine side—any must-try local dishes or wines I shouldn’t miss? Is it worth doing organized tastings, or is it easy enough to just explore and find good spots on your own?
We rented a car in Florence and drove around in Tuscany. It’s so beautiful!
 

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