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Another Week in Baden-Baden, June 2026

Pauline

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This is our third trip to Baden-Baden and each time we’ve had bad weather. The first time, 5 nights in October 2024, it rained every day except one. That one day was perfect and we did a memorable hike. The second time, 10 nights in May/June 2025 staying in a town near Baden-Baden, it was either very hot or pouring rain, but we did many good hikes and liked the area.

This trip, 10 nights in Baden-Baden, was during the Northern European May heatwave. It was so HOT! 90F most days (32C). We rented a different apartment in the same place we stayed on our first visit, Schwarzwald Loft, four apartments in a converted cigarette factory. It is a large building with a hotel in the centre and private apartments on each end, three floors. The apartment had a large balcony which we used frequently. The old building kept cool but by the end of our stay it was feeling warmer inside. No AC but good ceiling fans.

We had cool mornings on the balcony, then went out walking in the woods for two to three hours mid-day, and spent the later afternoons keeping cool in the apartment. Back to the balcony as the day cooled.

Walking on historic trails near the town centre​

Our first walk was on the Lichtentaler Allee, a wide path that goes from the centre of town, along the river, to the Kloster Lichtental, a 13th century monastery. We had lunch sitting outside at the cafe on the grounds of the monastery.

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Kloster Lichtental

I love this walk and I thank @jonathan for telling me to go to Baden-Baden and walk along the river. There are public gardens, large open fields, museums, and elegant old houses along the river. The path is tree-lined, perfect for hot days. It is two miles each way, so a nice walk.

There are a few other named walking paths like this around town in the area of the spas and the Neues Schloss (New Castle). The Hasensprung (Hares Leap) Circular Trail goes along several of them. We walked most of it.


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Looking to a residential area from the walking trail.

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Trails through the woods only steps from the town centre.

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Dostoyevsky lived in Baden-Baden (and spent a lot of time in the casino from what I’ve read). Here are the interesting toes of his statue on the Paracelsusweg.

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Woods and open fields in the area above the New Castle.

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Looking over the town from a terrace in front of the New Castle.

Another historic trail, The Bridleway, goes from behind where we stayed up into the woods and was a good way to get into the town center on a tree lined path. It connected to the other paths by the New Castle.


These are not long trails and are well used wide paths linking up to paths from different neighborhoods. They are a good way to get around town.
 

Walking in the surrounding woods​

We walked the Oostal Trail, on the eastern edge of town, last year and loved it, so we walked it again. 5 miles (7.6km), 800ft (240m) ascent, up one side of a wooded valley and back on the other. We drove to the trailhead just a few miles out of town.


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Oostal Circular

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More ambitious hikers can keep going from the end of the valley

Another day we drove up to the Merkur Cable Station to walk part of stage two of the Panorama Trail, a five day trail that goes around Baden-Baden. There are a lot of trails here, well signed. We walked out for a couple of miles, had our packed sandwiches with a beautiful view, ten walked back. We did this hike on our first trip.


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Walking through a hamlet

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Looking back at Eckhoffe.

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Views looking east

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Vineyards on the eastern slopes

There are a lot of trails in the woods around Baden-Baden. The tourist website has them listed.
 
Another hike in the woods that we liked started in the town centre and walked up the hill behind the Trinkhalle and Casino. The Oos Short Circular (now called the Forest and Roses Tour) is 2.3 miles, 340ft ascent. It goes up on stairs and paths through neighborhoods to woods where you get a long, flat, shaded walk. You come down through neighborhoods and end up on the Lichtentaler Allee. The woods were cool on the hot day we did this hike.


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Walking up at the start.

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Large field on the path

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Into the cool woods

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Coming back through the neighborhood above Lichtentaler Allee.

There is a longer version of this hike which looks good.

 

Walking in the surrounding woods​

We walked the Oostal Trail, on the eastern edge of town, last year and loved it, so we walked it again. 5 miles (7.6km), 800ft (240m) ascent, up one side of a wooded valley and back on the other. We drove to the trailhead just a few miles out of town.


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Oostal Circular

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More ambitious hikers can keep going from the end of the valley

Another day we drove up to the Merkur Cable Station to walk part of stage two of the Panorama Trail, a five day trail that goes around Baden-Baden. There are a lot of trails here, well signed. We walked out for a couple of miles, had our packed sandwiches with a beautiful view, ten walked back. We did this hike on our first trip.


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Walking through a hamlet

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Looking back at Eckhoffe.

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Views looking east

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Vineyards on the eastern slopes

There are a lot of trails in the woods around Baden-Baden. The tourist website has them listed.
Beautiful countryside!
 
One day we did a drive into the Black Forest. Most of the quaint towns with cuckoo clocks are in the southern Black Forest. Baden-Baden is on the northern edge of the Black Forest. We drove route 500, the Black Forest High Route, to Mummelsee, a small lake about 45 minutes away.

The drive started out fun because we stopped at Geroldsauer Muhle just outside of Baden-Baden. It is a sort of farm shop with a restaurant and we had fun looking at everything in the shop and buying a few things. Then we drove up into the thick woods, exciting at first, then boring.

Mummelsee was a very small lake with paddle boats, picnic areas, a restaurant and shops. Lots of people. We had our packed lunch, did the 15 minute walk around the lake, decided it was too hot and drove a different route back. We passed lots of hiking areas so there is more to this area than we saw on our brief visit.

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Mummelsee

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Views of the southern Black Forest.
 

Food Shops​

I love food shops and we always try out different shops when we travel. In the Baden-Baden area the Edeka shops are the best. A bit upscale, good produce, many vegan products. We liked the one in Steinbach where we stayed last year and even went there on arrival. There is one in eastern Baden-Baden that we didn’t visit and a huge one in an American style mall in the western part of town which we did visit.

In the town centre there is MarktHalle, a very upscale food shop on the top floor of a department store. It is only a 10 minute walk from the apartment we were in so that was where we shopped. They have good produce, fish, cheese and meat counters, an in-store bakery, and lots of interesting products. There is also a good natural foods shop.

From the MarktHalle I bought German Muesli to take home - Bauck Muhle, Bircher Muesli. This brand makes other things that we found in the farm shop. I got a cake mix to take home.

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There is a good chain of bakeries - Peter’s Gute Backstube. One was a 10 minute walk from the apartment. They make a sponge cake with strawberries on top that is very good. The bread is good too. Plus buttered pretzels like we get in Switzerland.

We did not eat in any restaurants. The idea of sitting outside in the heat did not appeal. But there is a good selection in the town centre. We didn’t even make it to a cafe!
 

In conclusion​

The weather is unpredictable in this part of Germany but it is the same at home in Dorset. Switzerland is like this too. As I write this the high today is a high of 57F, tomorrow is 55F, and it is raining. Warm weather in the low 70s is returning.

Too much of our time in Baden-Baden was hiding from the heat but I just couldn’t deal with it. Lots of water, lots of sunscreen and big sunhats helped but the heat wore me out. But we had a longer stay and did a lot of fun things. Some of those walks in the woods around the town were among my favorites! So peaceful, beautiful, gentle.

Schwarzwald Loft​

Our apartment was good, 1bed/1bath, on the first floor (US second), large balcony, good kitchen, comfortable bed. Underground parking. The only downside is that it is a long walk through the building from the car to the apartment. But there is a short way of exiting from the building on foot.

10 minutes to a bakery, a food shop and a good Asian restaurant. 5 minutes more and you are in the town centre. The apartment building backs onto the woods so while you hear city noises you also hear birds. You can walk into town on trails in the woods and the pretty neighborhoods.


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Large balcony

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View from balcony

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Looking down the building

More information​

Read my trip report from last year for more info:


The Baden-Baden tourist website is very good:


On to Switzerland​

We left a day early to spend a night in Thun, on a glacier-fed river, in a hotel with AC, then drove up into the cooler mountains. I’ll continue this in tne Switzerland section.

Thanks for reading!
 
Thank you, Pauline, for that fantastic trip! I loved not only the "toes" making Dostoevsky seem quite human/vulnerable. What impressed me most was the green everywhere, so rich and vibrant, calling to mind Hildegard von Bingen and her music praising nature and the "greening" she wrote about. I feel so refreshed after your description and photos!! xoxo
 
Beautiful area!! Love your reports! We were watching the French Open tennis and felt for everyone in that heat wave. THEN..our A/C hvac units at home crashed after 17 years, both at the same time!! Fortunately, our daytime temps have only been in the mid 80's and we can stay cool in the evenings with ceiling fans and windows open. To be honest, we have been comfortable, keeping shades drawn during the day. I think over here we are spoiled with consistent hvac 70-72f house temps. I told my wife we should try to get used to moderating our a/c in the furture.....;-)
 

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