italian excursion
100+ Posts
Granted, a slow travel experience has been determined by us "slow traveler's" to be one in which we stay in an area for a length of time which enables us to have a community experience. So, while villas, houses and apartments are most conducive to that experience, I often find B & B's owned by a family give me the same experience, minus the cooking! This last trip I stayed a week with a British couple who have lived in the Orvieto countryside (Cononico, Orvieto, Umbria) for about two decades after living in Greece for a number of years. I have been visiting this area of Italy for more than 20 years and have stayed in dozens of lodgings from small houses to large villas. This was by far, one of the best experiences, in many ways, that I've had regarding lodging. Lois and I have been acquainted for several years and when she announced that she and Paul had finished the en-suite room they were building into their self-renovated farmhouse, I was invited to "give it a try". Here is a review of a most delightful week in the country.
Being very tired from my long journey from the US, Lois was kind enough to meet me on the main road and guide me back to the house so I wouldn't get lost. The first thing one notices when arriving is the abundance of natural flora and gardens around the house. And wonderful outdoor venues for sitting or eating while enjoying the country views. There were beautiful yellow climbing roses around the window of the room where I stayed; a view from that window to the sheep in a nearby meadow; birds singing. There was a flower box on the window sill with colorful blooms. The interior of the home was what made me happiest as it radiated warmth and comfort. The hosts restored and designed the old farmhouse which was done with taste and thoughtfulness. The hosts were generous with their knowledge of local highlights and sights and shared information when I asked about directions and recommendations. And do ask to see some of Paul's amazing 19 books of photography, orchids (he's a renowned orchid expert) and Greek Island nature guide books. Lois, in her own right leads tours, too, to remote archeological sites. www.hiddenworlds.co.uk.
The bedroom (https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/24195439?s=51) where I stayed has a comfortable, four-poster bed (a great mattress which all of the 3 bears would attest to) and the photos seen on the website don't do the room justice. There are many special touches like the trompe l'oeil of a window on one wall, lots of hangers for clothing and plenty of drawer space. The book shelf was filled with good material for all reading tastes. The bathroom was nice and big, with a large shower that had plenty of hot water for every shower. There was more than enough shelf place for cosmetics, etc., and if you forgot your shampoo or other necessities the hosts have supplies readily available. The lighting in the room and bathroom was thoughtfully placed which is not always the case in other lodging where I've stayed. The bath linens were nice and fluffy and a terry robe was hanging on the door, ready to use. There is a lovely sitting room downstairs with good lighting, a fireplace for the cold, a window seat overlooking the garden and a cat if you like. (I notified the owners I was allergic to cats before I booked and my room was cat-free, so no problem at all). The entire home was clean with comfortable furnishings that fit the country lifestyle (not Ikea like so many of these rentals). Actually, Paul built most of the furniture, sometimes using the manger wood from the farmhouse itself. Breakfasts were abundant with choices of yogurt, toasts, homemade jams, fruit, juices, teas and coffee.
The little hamlet of Cononica is only about 15 minutes from Orvieto proper but it seems centuries away. It's an agricultural area with good walking and a tiny village nearby. Nothing was forgotten and the hosts were accommodating but never in the way. It felt like home and I will be returning again as I've already reserved for my autumn trip!
Being very tired from my long journey from the US, Lois was kind enough to meet me on the main road and guide me back to the house so I wouldn't get lost. The first thing one notices when arriving is the abundance of natural flora and gardens around the house. And wonderful outdoor venues for sitting or eating while enjoying the country views. There were beautiful yellow climbing roses around the window of the room where I stayed; a view from that window to the sheep in a nearby meadow; birds singing. There was a flower box on the window sill with colorful blooms. The interior of the home was what made me happiest as it radiated warmth and comfort. The hosts restored and designed the old farmhouse which was done with taste and thoughtfulness. The hosts were generous with their knowledge of local highlights and sights and shared information when I asked about directions and recommendations. And do ask to see some of Paul's amazing 19 books of photography, orchids (he's a renowned orchid expert) and Greek Island nature guide books. Lois, in her own right leads tours, too, to remote archeological sites. www.hiddenworlds.co.uk.
The bedroom (https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/24195439?s=51) where I stayed has a comfortable, four-poster bed (a great mattress which all of the 3 bears would attest to) and the photos seen on the website don't do the room justice. There are many special touches like the trompe l'oeil of a window on one wall, lots of hangers for clothing and plenty of drawer space. The book shelf was filled with good material for all reading tastes. The bathroom was nice and big, with a large shower that had plenty of hot water for every shower. There was more than enough shelf place for cosmetics, etc., and if you forgot your shampoo or other necessities the hosts have supplies readily available. The lighting in the room and bathroom was thoughtfully placed which is not always the case in other lodging where I've stayed. The bath linens were nice and fluffy and a terry robe was hanging on the door, ready to use. There is a lovely sitting room downstairs with good lighting, a fireplace for the cold, a window seat overlooking the garden and a cat if you like. (I notified the owners I was allergic to cats before I booked and my room was cat-free, so no problem at all). The entire home was clean with comfortable furnishings that fit the country lifestyle (not Ikea like so many of these rentals). Actually, Paul built most of the furniture, sometimes using the manger wood from the farmhouse itself. Breakfasts were abundant with choices of yogurt, toasts, homemade jams, fruit, juices, teas and coffee.
The little hamlet of Cononica is only about 15 minutes from Orvieto proper but it seems centuries away. It's an agricultural area with good walking and a tiny village nearby. Nothing was forgotten and the hosts were accommodating but never in the way. It felt like home and I will be returning again as I've already reserved for my autumn trip!
