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Back from London

Amy

100+ Posts
We're just back from another enjoyable winter week in London. We lucked out with the weather, with the rains largely staying away and even having some sunny mild days. We again stayed in the apartment http://www.vrbo.com/382679 in Notting Hill Gate--convenient, quirky, and comfortable.

I hope to do some more thorough blogging in the next few days to record details, but here's an outline of our week.

Saturday (arrival)Took the Heathrow Connect (half the price of the Express, but takes a bit longer)to Paddington, then the Tube to the apartment. Walked through Notting Hill over to Westbourne Grove, had a nice Middle Eastern lunch at Alounak. Then through Bayswater and into Kensington Gardens. Visited Kensington Palace.

Sunday. Had breakfast with some relatives at a forgettable place in Covent Gardens, then walked over to the Courtauld Gallery in Somerset House. Was vastly amused by the goings-ons in the courtyard for Fashion Week. The Courtauld is a lovely small first-class art museum in a historic setting. We did the Dickens and Shakespeare walking tour with London Walks , which was enjoyable though not as good as some of the other walks we've done with this company. Walked over the Millennium Bridge, then went up to the bar in the Tate modern, waited for a seat, and had some drinks while enjoying the view. A basic though convenient dinner at the Swan at the Globe, then a remarkable theater experience at the candlelit Wannamaker theater at the Globe , Eileen Atkins on Shakespeare's women.

Monday. My sister arrived, and we walked her around the neighborhood then landed at the Churchill Arms on Ken Church Street for good Thai food in a cozy historic pub. Walked through Kensington into Knightsbridge just to enjoy the architecture and street scene. Crazy lines outside the museums. Dragged Sue into the V&A briefly. Ended up at the 19th centory mosaic-filled Westminster Cathedral, where for a few pounds you can take the elevator to the top for a view over London. Good fish and chips dinner at Geales in Notting Hill.

Tuesday. Went on the Secrets of Saint Paul's walk with London Walks. Very informative and enjoyable. An excellent Indian lunch at Cafe Spice Namaste--more expensive than usual, but really fine cooking. After three visits to London, time to brave the crowds at the Tower of London. We found the exhibits and tour largely hokey, but loved the architecture and setting.

Wednesday. Sue headed over to the British Museum, and Larry and I did the Old Jewish Quarter walk in East London, which was the best walk of this week. If you get the chance, go to the beautiful historic Beavis Marks Synagogue during one of the times the engaging Director gives tours. We continued our walk around Spitalfields, and had a decent Indian lunch.

Thursday. Early visit to the National Portrait Gallery. Met friends at Turkish restaurant Sofra in Covent Garden, very enjoyable. It was a gorgeous afternoon, so we threw our museum plans out the window and took a very long walk along and over the Thames from Borough Market up to Lambeth. (Tip--avoid walking the Thames near the Eye and Aquarium unless you like huge crowds). Surprisingly excellent dinner at friendly local pub The Champion on Bayswater Road.

Friday. Had a fascinating visit at the Sir John Sloan House, now one of my favorite oddball places. Took Sue poking around some of the hidden sights in Holborn--St Etheldreda, Dr. Johnson's house, Staple Inn, Chancery Lane, etc. Late Indian lunch at reliable Sagar in Covent Garden. Ended the day at 2 Temple Place , a fantastic small museum housed in an Astor mansion on the Thames. Current exhibit is a collection of wide-ranging exhibits gathered under the theme of Discoveries. Sent Sue over to Westminster Abbey for Evensong, a free way to get a glimpse inside without crowds. Dinner at the popular Persian restaurant Sadaf on Westbourne Grove.

Saturday. We headed back home, Sue got to stay for a few more days with a friend.

Still so much more to explore in London! Some resources I like: Hidden London adn London Bucket List.
 
Great report Amy! Thanks! You managed to pack so much into just a week ~ I'm impressed!

I think I'll take your advice about catching the Heathrow Connect into London's Paddington Station on my upcoming trip. I could then just get a taxi to my apartment at the lower end of Marylibone. I usually take the underground in from Heathrow but a combination of things ~ arrival during the evening commute and the major work taking place at my Bond Station ~ make me realize the Connect would work best.

I too love the eclectic Sir John Soane's Museum. It's a must visit every time I'm in London. They've been remodeling the last few times I was there. Did you get to see the Canaletto's on display? Isn't it unique how they have the swinging panels in the very tiny picture gallery? How else could you display so many paintings - Hogarth's A Rake's Progress! - without any wall space?
 

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