Bonnieux and St. Remy in May

[aspalek]

Hi, My husband and I will be in Bonnieux and St. Remy in early for 4 nights each next month. Chose both towns based on mentions on this site, thank you! Can't wait to see which i like better (if i even want to choose).
Would love to get some dining recommendations for either area. I found a couple of recs in Bonnieux but according to Google maps, one is now closed (L'arome?).
Any suggestions would be welcome - we will have a rental car and will be of course driving around to check out the nearby towns and markets.
Thank you!

 

[Pauline]

I don’t have any food recommendations but those are both lovely towns with lots to see and do nearby! Good choice!

 

[dayhiker]

We visited Provence in October 2023, staying 9 nights each in Aix and St Remy. Here are our restaurant recommendations for St Remy (make reservations ahead of time):
1. Restaurant La Table d'Yvan - so good we ate there twice! In a hotel a bit outside of town, pre-fixe dinner that changes daily. See website for daily menu, published a week at a time. Reservations a must.
2. Restaurant Maison Marshall - delicious dinner, friendly helpful service
3. Gus Restaurant - Delicious seafood, either as dinner or order whatever you want. Very tiny. Make a reservation.
3. L'Aile ou la Cuisse - best part of the meal was dessert - you get to choose from an assortment
4. Bistrot des Alpilles - nice pre-fixe menu or order a la carte. Busy place
5. La Rose des Sables - Good Moroccan restaurant, hidden in a corner of a parking lot.

Lots of opportunities for day trips from St Remy. We went to Arles, Avignon, Pont du Gard, Cassis and La Camargue. Don't miss Carrieres de Lumieres (reserve ahead of time).
ENJOY!

 

[aspalek]

We visited Provence in October 2023, staying 9 nights each in Aix and St Remy. Here are our restaurant recommendations for St Remy (make reservations ahead of time):
1. Restaurant La Table d'Yvan - so good we ate there twice! In a hotel a bit outside of town, pre-fixe dinner that changes daily. See website for daily menu, published a week at a time. Reservations a must.
2. Restaurant Maison Marshall - delicious dinner, friendly helpful service
3. Gus Restaurant - Delicious seafood, either as dinner or order whatever you want. Very tiny. Make a reservation.
3. L'Aile ou la Cuisse - best part of the meal was dessert - you get to choose from an assortment
4. Bistrot des Alpilles - nice pre-fixe menu or order a la carte. Busy place
5. La Rose des Sables - Good Moroccan restaurant, hidden in a corner of a parking lot.

Lots of opportunities for day trips from St Remy. We went to Arles, Avignon, Pont du Gard, Cassis and La Camargue. Don't miss Carrieres de Lumieres (reserve ahead of time).
ENJOY!

Thanks so much for these, they sound great. I have heard about carrieres des lumieres, I will check into booking that!

 

[Parigi]

Both villages are lovely.
I would make Bonnieux a base and make St Rémy a day trip. Reasons:
1. Bonnieux has a range of good eateries, from a good pizza (la Flambée) to gastronomy (Ju, plus others), plus a great butcher who mqkes a killer roast chicken, plus an insane ice cream glacier (Tinel). St Rémy's eateries are not bad but do not have this concentration of excellence.
2. Bonnieux is in the middle of a clustr of beautiful villages (Goult, St Saturnin les Apt, Saignon, Venasque, Lacoste, Ménerbe…).
3. St Rémy is not far.
4. And personally I hate pack-unpack.
Or you can consider 6 days Bonnieux and 2 days St Rémy, so that you can have 2 days to explore St Rémy's old town, Glanum, Van Gogh's sanatorium, and Arles.
I have visited Pont du Gard several times through the years, and have been very disappointed since there's been a visitors' center. It is Pondugardland.
If you like ancient Roman sites, and there are quite a few splendid ones in and near Arles (the Cryptoportique, Alyscamps in addition to all the famous Roman sites of Arles) and the overwhelming Barbegal. And Arles is another place that is blessed with a concentration of good eateries.
You will have a fabulous time.

 

[aspalek]

Thank you! I'm already hungry for that roast chicken! I'm not sure I can change my dates at this point since our trip is soon. Saving all your advice though. Do plan on visiting as many Roman site as possible. I saw Pont du Gard in a college trip in the 80s and thought it was amazing but sounds like the atmosphere is very changed. Too bad!

 

[Pauline]

There is a way to see the Pont du Gard without driving in and paying and it is more fun.

My favorite approach to the Pont du Gard is to park in Vers-Pont-du-Gard and take the hiking trail from there, along the remains of the aqueduct (Pont de la Lone), to the Pont du Gard.

Occitanie - Pont du Gard and the Nîmes Roman Aqueduct

The Pont du Gard, an ancient Roman bridge, is part of the Nîmes Roman Aqueduct that carried water from Uzès to Nîmes. The bridge, which crosses the River Gardon, is essentially three bridges built one on top of the other to reach the required height. The lower bridge has six arches, the next has...

www.sloweurope.com

 

[olivia-25]

Hi, My husband and I will be in Bonnieux and St. Remy in early for 4 nights each next month. Chose both towns based on mentions on this site, thank you! Can't wait to see which i like better (if i even want to choose).
Would love to get some dining recommendations for either area. I found a couple of recs in Bonnieux but according to Google maps, one is now closed (L'arome?).
Any suggestions would be welcome - we will have a rental car and will be of course driving around to check out the nearby towns and markets.
Thank you!

Hi! Both towns are lovely try Le Fournil in Bonnieux and L'Auberge de Saint-Rémy in St. Remy for a memorable dining experience; both offer great local cuisine and charm!

 

[Parigi]

Thank you! I'm already hungry for that roast chicken! I'm not sure I can change my dates at this point since our trip is soon. Saving all your advice though. Do plan on visiting as many Roman site as possible. I saw Pont du Gard in a college trip in the 80s and thought it was amazing but sounds like the atmosphere is very changed. Too bad!

"'m not sure I can change my dates at this point"
Don't worry. I was just fussing about planning an A or an A+ trip.
I suggested once to two veteran slowtravelers - not young young - to rent a canoe from Pont du Gard'sneighboring village Collias, to approach the Pont du Gard that way, (and pack a roast chicken picnic). They loved it. But I'm not sure the weather would permit it for you.
I think you must have ssen Pont du Gard in its better days.

 

[Kathy]

I'm here in Bonnieux now. We've been spending time in Bonnieux for over 20 years and have a 2nd home here. There have been lots of changes in the restaurants in the years since COVID.

Le Fournil is now closed and L'Arome was sold a year ago. In the space occupied by L'Arome (right by our home), there's now a gastronomic restaurant, "Ju," which was just awarded one Michelin star. I've had dinner there twice, and we just had lunch a few days ago.. lunch is well-worth considering. The owner has now bought the old Fournil space and will be opening a more casual Bistro.

Some of our other favorites: La Flambee for home-cooking and wood-fired-oven pizzas. Le Terrail, for a casual cafe meal... excellent food. Le Tinel for crepes and ice cream. Down in the plain, La Gare de Bonnieux (across from the old train station).

We love this village. You could stay here for your entire time and day--trip over to St. Remy, about one hour's drive.

Kathy

 

[aspalek]

Hi! Both towns are lovely try Le Fournil in Bonnieux and L'Auberge de Saint-Rémy in St. Remy for a memorable dining experience; both offer great local cuisine and charm!

Thank you so much! I will make a note of these

 

[Amy-Hikes]

These posts are very helpful. Thank you, everyone.

 

[aspalek]

I'm here in Bonnieux now. We've been spending time in Bonnieux for over 20 years and have a 2nd home here. There have been lots of changes in the restaurants in the years since COVID.

Le Fournil is now closed and L'Arome was sold a year ago. In the space occupied by L'Arome (right by our home), there's now a gastronomic restaurant, "Ju," which was just awarded one Michelin star. I've had dinner there twice, and we just had lunch a few days ago.. lunch is well-worth considering. The owner has now bought the old Fournil space and will be opening a more casual Bistro.

Some of our other favorites: La Flambee for home-cooking and wood-fired-oven pizzas. Le Terrail, for a casual cafe meal... excellent food. Le Tinel for crepes and ice cream. Down in the plain, La Gare de Bonnieux (across from the old train station).

We love this village. You could stay here for your entire time and day--trip over to St. Remy, about one hour's drive.

Kathy

Thank you so much for these details! We are on the wait list for Ju which is already booked for the dates we are in town, but haven't tried for lunch. What's your opinion on Restaurant Cesar? I noticed it has a nice view but wondering what you thought. Have emailed them but haven't heard back. Thank you!! Excited to get to Bonnieux.

 

[Kathy]

Thank you so much for these details! We are on the wait list for Ju which is already booked for the dates we are in town, but haven't tried for lunch. What's your opinion on Restaurant Cesar? I noticed it has a nice view but wondering what you thought. Have emailed them but haven't heard back. Thank you!! Excited to get to Bonnieux.

In 20 years we've never eaten at the Restaurant Cesar. I believe they have new owners too in the last few years. I've heard good things... you could check reviews.

Lunch at Ju is well-worth considering. There is an option for a three-course lunch (chef's choice... considering any allergies or dietary issues) and you get two "bonus" courses. It was 48 euro, though you could elect more courses (more expensive) like the dinner. I would at least check and see if you can book for lunch. Our apartment is right across from the restaurant, first door up on the left, a red door.

We also highly recommend Le Terrail, the cafe-restaurant a little further up the narrow street. This is a popular place with locals and regular visitors... an excellent chef, nice options on the menu. The plat du jour is always a good option. An attractive outdoor terrace, friendly service. We've been eating here for 20+ years, with several different owners. The new owners worked there for several years and are doing a fabulous job.

 

[aspalek]

In 20 years we've never eaten at the Restaurant Cesar. I believe they have new owners too in the last few years. I've heard good things... you could check reviews.

Lunch at Ju is well-worth considering. There is an option for a three-course lunch (chef's choice... considering any allergies or dietary issues) and you get two "bonus" courses. It was 48 euro, though you could elect more courses (more expensive) like the dinner. I would at least check and see if you can book for lunch. Our apartment is right across from the restaurant, first door up on the left, a red door.

We also highly recommend Le Terrail, the cafe-restaurant a little further up the narrow street. This is a popular place with locals and regular visitors... an excellent chef, nice options on the menu. The plat du jour is always a good option. An attractive outdoor terrace, friendly service. We've been eating here for 20+ years, with several different owners. The new owners worked there for several years and are doing a fabulous job.

Thank you so much for all your help!

 

[Parigi]

Thank you! I'm already hungry for that roast chicken! I'm not sure I can change my dates at this point since our trip is soon. Saving all your advice though. Do plan on visiting as many Roman site as possible. I saw Pont du Gard in a college trip in the 80s and thought it was amazing but sounds like the atmosphere is very changed. Too bad!

"I'm already hungry for that roast chicken"

I reread my reply and realized I had skipped half a sentence, a very important half.
The killer roast chicken is from the village butcher Isnard.
Don't forget to get some of the potatoes roasted as the same time as the rotiserrie chickens, getting all the nice chicken drippings.
The butcher, 2nd generation in the same address, knows what he's doing, and does several of his father's signature offers besides the killer chicken: herb-stuffed sausage (saucisses aux herbes) and lamb kebab (brochette d'agneau), seasoned by him, ready to be thrown on your bbq.
On one of my last trips to Bonnieux, I was with a a hndful of my old childhood friends. One morning we were going to visit the beautiful village of Ansouis, and the day before I had gone to the butcher and asked him to have a chicken roasted for us to pick up at 9:30am, for our picnic in Ansouis.
After the trip, my friends do not remember the village name even if you torture them, but they remember that chicken, and consider it to be the best roast chicken of their life. Now they call beautiful Ansouis "the chicken village".
Picnicking is an enchanting way to experience Provence.
The Bonnieux village butcher Isnard is where you can also pick up a lot of cold cuts and cooked dishes, perfect for a picnic. Another place to pick up excellent cooked dishes and cold cuts is Maison Gouin, in the village of Le Coustellet, about a 20-minute drive away. (You can ask to buy a set of plastic forks and knives.)
All the villages have nice spots for picnic. Ansouis, which I mention above, has a little garden with a nice view, always shielded from even the most lashing mistral wind.
My first reply was messy. "Le Tinel" is a glasicer (ice cream place), and is a must after every one of our dinners.
La Flambée, a very nice pizzeria, was recommended by the landlord of our hill-top rental, who used to run into John Malkovich at the village school (in Lacoste ?), who was fetching his son, while my landlord was fetching his grandson.

 

[aspalek]

can't wait! we will be there in 2 weeks from today! thanks again.