Country Roads in Autumn. Ten weeks in country France.

[phirhon]

We had another great trip to France in 2016. This is what we did, region by region.

As introduction, we are an early 60’s Australian couple and this was our sixth trip to France. Our journey began when we were picked up at our front door at 6-15 am by the shuttle service for the 2.5 hour trip to the International Airport in Brisbane. Thirty five hours later we arrived in Lyon. This was three flights, Brisbane to Singapore to Zurich to Lyon, with several hours in three airports. We had a quick transfer in Zurich and as we were waiting on the tarmac in Zurich to board our twin propeller plane for Lyon, I saw our luggage being loaded. What a relief!!



We arrived in Lyon on Friday morning [9th September] and took the shuttle to Europcar where we collected our leased Peugot 308. We had a room booked at the Ibis and after a shower we went out to get fuel – leased cars come with about 100 kms of fuel- and some makings for a picnic lunch and fruit and water for the next day. I know we could have gone into Lyon but were too tired. By late afternoon we were ready for bed and slept fairly well until early morning.



After breakfast we were on the road by 7.30. It was not very inspiring as we drove around Lyon and through St Etienne, but at last we turned off the major road and we were where we wanted to be – on the country roads of France.



WEEK 1 – CANTAL



We smiled as we drove through small villages and, hey, we could detour and see some castle ruins. So off we went along the Loire and found the ruins of Chateau d’Artias high on a hill with great views over the river and valley. It was a lovely drive along the Loire until we came to that dreaded sign, Route Barree! We had to change our route but eventually ended up on the road to St Flour which looked interesting as we drove through, but time was against us as we still had further to go. On through Murat and along the scenic, winding road past Puy Mary and into Salers. We met a lot of camping cars on the road and passing them was tight.



Our gite this week was in a small hamlet between Salers and Mauriac. It was lovely- full of character and very comfortable with a well equipped kitchen. There was an outdoor table under an apple tree in the back yard. After unloading the car we set out for the Carrefour Market in Mauriac to stock up on provisions. That took a while as the supermarket was not open on Sunday and we were starting with nothing. The weather was very warm and we sat outside for our traditional first night dinner- charcuterie, cheese, baguette, radishes , tomatoes followed by fresh figs and accompanied by a crisp rose. We are back! But also very tired.



On our first day in a new area we usually spend the morning exploring nearby and finding what is around. Sundays are always quiet. It was quite warm and the country was very dry. We enjoyed just wandering through pretty villages and admiring the houses which are really attractive – quite large in dark stone, sometimes dark red shutters. We also loved the large barns we saw in this region with sloping roofs and large arched doors. Another detour down a dirt road and along an avenue of trees took us to the ruins of the chateau Branzac. At St Christophe les Gorges we walked through the forest to the Chapelle Notre Dame du Chateau. It was a steep walk to the chapel which is on a rocky spur overlooking the gorges-and so quiet and peaceful . We were home in time for lunch under the tree.



That afternoon we headed in the other direction and ended up at the pretty village of Anglards de Salers where there is the chateau Tremoliere with fairytale towers. On the way we passed paddocks of the reddish brown Salers cattle whose milk is used to make the local Salers cheese. They had bells around their necks and we enjoyed hearing those bells all week. That night for dinner we had our first duck breast – always good.



We were only a few minutes from the village of Salers which is a Plus Beau Village [ PBV ]. It was looking beautiful with pots of bright flowers with the backdrop of the dark stone buildings with slate roofs. It was busy with tourists and there are quite a few shops aimed at tourists and several restaurants. The large church is very ornate, there are some interesting buildings and narrow streets and a lovely panorama over the valley



One morning we set off towards Ally with a photo stop at the Chateau de Vigne, and a detour to Brageac to see the church built on the site of an old abbey. We followed some very narrow roads through the forest. At one stage we could not get past four calves which ran frantically in front of the car. Finally, a steep descent brought us out to the road along the Dordogne. It was a beautiful view of the river with high gorges and trees just starting to colour. We followed the scenic road to Spontour and crossed the river. Another detour took us to the site of the impressive Viaduc des Rochers Noirs deep in the forest. Then on to the Barrage d’Aigle before another Route Barree took us on a 15+ km detour to end up 500 metres from where we started. Not to worry.



“ Pounti “ which is a loaf made from pork , spinach, eggs and prunes is a speciality of this region. We bought two thick slices which we cooked until warmed and starting to colour. It was very nice with salad for dinner. That week we also bought “ chou farci” which is similar to pounti but a bit lighter. Six trips to France and we are still finding new food.



After a stop at the boulangerie at St Martin de Valmeroux, we drove through lovely country to Fontanges. This is a pretty little village with a nice church and some lovely houses. Here there is the Chapel Monolithe de St Michel which is a small chapel carved into a large rock. The rock is topped by a statue and covered with grass. Another steep, narrow road along a ridge took us to the next valley and the tidy village of St Projet de Salers. We were on our way to Tournemire, which is another PBV until, Route Barree again.We finally arrived and as you drive in the very impressive chateau dominates the village which is small but charming. Once again, there are some lovely Auvergnat houses and a large church. It is vastly different from Salers – nary a post card stand in sight.



Mauriac was where we shopped and we did go in for a walk around. After all these trips you would think we should know not to go around lunch – very quiet. It is an old town of tall buildings in dark stone. The basilica is of the same dark stone and is lovely and not terribly ornate inside.



The forecast rain arrived on Wednesday as we drove across to Argentat. This is a very picturesque old river port on the Dordogne. The quais along the river are attractive with cobblestones and houses with balconies. The views of the town from both sides of the river are lovely and there are some interesting buildings away from the river. We had planned to stop at the Tours de Merle, but it was misty and damp and not open until late, so we continued on to Laroquebrou. A picturesque chateau overlooks this small village on the Cere river. On the way home we stopped in at Pleaux. This proved to be just the sort of place we like with some beautiful buildings with lots of towers and an attractive large church. Nothing touristy, just a nice French town.



It was still overcast on Thursday but had cleared by lunch and the haze that had been present all week had gone. We set off to Salers to drive up to Puy Mary. No!! Route Barree!! The detour took us down through St Paul de Salers and along the valley before climbing back up to the road to Puy mary. There were quite a few people climbing up and it is a well marked and maintained path. I am not a great climber, but it was worth the effort to get to the top. The 360deg. view of the country, valleys and mountains is stunning. We were pleased we had waited as the air was clear and it was not as hot.



On our last day we drove up to Mauriac with some stops at Drugeac and Salins with its’ cascade. After getting fuel and shopping we drove back via the Vallee du Mars to Le Falgoux. This is a pleasant drive with great scenery and pretty villages, and Le Falgoux is nice. The road then comes back on the road to Puy Mary and with the Route Barree still in place it was another drive down the valley. Lucky it was a scenic drive.



We enjoyed our week in the Cantal and did not get to some of the places on our list –maybe another time. After the first week we are now into the rhythm of our trips. Next stop, the Lot et Garonne

 

[phirhon]

WEEKS 2 & 3 –LOT et GARONNE



Our drive on Saturday took us back through Argentat and along the Dordogne and it was busy and built up in places until we turned off for Gramat and eventually for Gourdon. We had planned a stop but P was not feeling well [the lingering effects of a bout of shingles two weeks before our trip]. Gourdon was very busy and slow to get through but we then took quiet back roads with a stop for lunch by a church in a small hamlet. We stopped in Villefranche du Perigord for a break and it was looking lovely with wonderful halles and that gorgeous golden stone of the buildings.



Our gite for the next two weeks was on the edge of the small village of St Sernin, about ten minutes from Duras. Once again, it was very comfortable and in a wonderful location. We were surrounded by grape vines heavy with sweet black grapes which we were encouraged to eat. After we were unpacked, our charming owner arrived back with a large bowl of ripe figs and the juicy sweet plums which are dried to become prunes. Add in the last of the sweet summer melons and it was just a feast of nature’s autumn bounty. And so began an idyllic two weeks.



On Sunday we went into Duras which was our closest town for shopping. Another Carrefour market with everything we needed, and a variety of small shops and cafes. As it was the Sunday of Journee Patrimoine, the chateau was open so we went in and enjoyed our visit. It was quite interesting and easy to follow the printed guide. We climbed to the top of the tower for great views over the village and surrounds. We found the TO for free WIFI [last week and these two weeks were our only weeks without internet]. After lunch outside at home, we went for a drive around some of the small nearby hamlets and villages. We spotted a small restaurant which we could visit later in our stay. As well as lots of grape vines, we passed fields of brown papery corn and sunflowers too tired to hold up their heads any longer. Tournesol. How perfect is that name?



There are a host of villages and bastides in this region and it was difficult to know where to begin. We started by heading south through Levignac de Guyenne [small bastide] and turning off for a very scenic drive to Monteton which in a lovely position overlooking the countryside. It was small village with large attractive Place d’eglise. There was a very nice looking restaurant but sadly beyond our budget. [have I mentioned we do not have a big budget? Hence, not a lot of meals out] We then moved on to Allemans du Dropt which is very nice. The church has lovely frescoes and the town is on the river with a very picturesque bridge and surrounds. We stopped briefly in Miramont de Guyenne [a bastide] but it was market day and very busy and after a look at the market we moved on to Eymet. Eymet is a picture perfect village on the Dropt river with a large arcaded square, church [of course], and the remains of a chateau. We always take note of the war memorials as well, and there is a poignant and emotive memorial here. There were plenty of cafes and tourists. This region is very popular with people from Britain who live there or have holiday houses, so we did hear more English being spoken. And one cafe had ‘Fish and Chips ‘on the chalkboard outside. We had a picnic lunch.



Next day we went across to Issigeac which came as a surprise. It is described as a medieval village and instead of golden stone, it has a lot of half timbered buildings, little narrow passages and lanes. It was gorgeous. Our next stop was Beaumont du Perigord and back to golden stone. It is also a bastide with the walls, gates, and town square with market halles and we liked it a lot. And it was market day, a small market which we often enjoy more than larger ones.. So some goats’ cheese and pain d’epice later, we moved on. to Cadouin. We visited in 2014 and had a nice lunch at Restaurant l’Abbaye so decided to return. Once again the meal was good and we left feeling like we needed a sleep. Our last stop on the way home was St Avit Senieur which is also a pretty place with a wonderful Abbey church with remarkable frescoes. That night we sat outside with a fruit platter and a cold bottle of the local Sauvignon. A very pleasant day.



It is good I keep a journal as I would never remember everything. Another day we drove the back roads to Pellegrue before turning off for St Ferme where there is a large abbey in a very nice setting. It was very tranquil. P does all our major photographs, while I do little things. Last trip it was stations of the cross. This time I chose to photograph some of the interesting war memorials we see in France. St Ferme has an impressive one near the abbey and made for a good photo. Sauveterre de Guyenne is a larger walled town with four gates and a large arcaded town square. I can appreciate the problems places have with the demands of modern life, but it was a pity to see the lovely town square turned into a car park.



We made an early start to drive across to Saint Emilion and found a park on the road in to town. I can see why this is so popular. It really is a lovely little place, albeit a tad touristy. There are several lovely buildings to see and streets to wander, and I have never seen such a concentration of wine shops. The buildings were taller and larger than we had expected. We enjoyed our morning there. The drive along the road from St Foy to St E, though, is not the most appealing. We came home for a late lunch in our little oasis. That night we sat outside for our dinner of baked trout and salad and as we were finishing our wine in the dusk, a doe and her little one wandered among the vines. Pinch me. This is so perfect.



On another gorgeous day we headed south again in the direction of Seyches . It was a lovely drive through country that reminded us very much of our visit to the Gers which is not far away. Seyches had some nice features- a church built into the gate, a lovely mural, an interesting passage at the mairie and a terrific boulangerie. Let’s get our priorities straight. Here we bought our baguette, some patisserie and two caneles which we loved. Have the recipe, need the pans. After leaving Seyches we saw a windmill and what seemed to be ruins on top of a hill, so a detour was called for to the small village of Tourtres. The ruins turned out to be the “clocher mur“ of the church surrounded by the cemetery, and there was also an old mill. There was also a series of tables of orientation with the history of the surrounding countryside. It was fascinating – small things off the beaten track are just what we enjoy. On to Castillones which we really liked – narrow streets down to the arcaded town square, interesting clock tower and church, very nice charcuteie where bought some delicious grillons.



On Saturday we visited Pujols [PBV] near Villeneuve sur lot. It is very small, high on a hill [more great views] with some pretty streets and buildings. We stopped in Castelmoron sur Lot which is quite attractive. It has some lovely stone buildings and an interesting Hotel de Ville. We came home through Seyches. Good. The boulangerie is open and we need more caneles. Our lovely hosts arrived with more figs and plums that afternoon. We sat outside for dinner that night – duck breast with fennel and carrots braised in orange juice. It was a very nice marriage of flavours.



We visited Bergerac on Sunday. The shops were closed of course, but there were plenty of people around and cafes open. The historic centre is quite interesting. There are some beautiful old buildings which have been restored, pretty squares, an impressive cathedral, the statue of Cyrano. We enjoyed our morning. We came home through Monbazillac where we stopped at the chateau and did buy a bottle Monbazillac wine which was a bit sweet for our taste.



Monday is market day in Duras and it is a good market. We bought a goats cheese and also found a small wheel of the Dordogne cheese Trappe d’Echourgnac. It is washed in walnut liqueur and goes very nicely with fruit. We discovered it last trip in Cenac. We also stopped in at the Maison de Vins where the local wines are available at very reasonable prices. We really enjoyed the local sauvignon and rose wines in the warm weather. Then off to lunch at En Toute Simplicite in Loubes Bernac. We had a lovely meal – four courses, wine and coffee for 14 euro per person. Hard to beat .for value. I had a delicious brochette of chicken and duck.



The next day we drove down to La Reole where we had planned to stop, but, you guessed it. The route barree detour took us around town and out the other side before we knew it. We went on to Macaire where we parked outside and walked through the gate to this very old town. It was very quiet but nice as we found the church, the cloisters, and the attractive arcaded square, La Mercadiou And it was here we had one of those unexpected but very rewarding experiences that happen now and then..There is a hotel particular which is now mediatheque. It was closed but there was a couple there and as we peeked in the gate, the lady invited us in to see the staircase and then proceeded to take us upstairs, unlocking doors and showing us rooms with very old fireplaces surrounded by untouched frescoes. She had no English and my French is spotty but we managed and it was just wonderful. She was passionate about this lovely old building, and for us it was another memory to file away.



We then went a little further on to Verdelais. This was a brief note I had written down and nothing prepared us for the magnificence of the basilica there. It is huge with a very tall spire topped by a gold statue. It was beautiful inside – quite dark with painted naves, lots of paintings and polished wooden confessionals. Opposite the basilica a stone escalier leads up past the cemetery to a park where pilgrims visit. As a side note, Toulouse Lautrec is buried here.



This was turning into a big day. A little further on is the village of Ste Croix high on a rocky outcrop and another church with a view, this time over vineyards, and a chateau which is now the mairie. Last stop was the town of Cadillac, another bastide. It has large gates and an impressive chateau. We went into the chateau which has very few furnishings but has the most wonderful collection of 16th and 17th century tapestries of exquisite workmanship and with colours still true and bright. And not to forget the incredible, elaborate fireplaces and suspended staircase. We made a short stop on the way home at Castelmoron d’ Albret which is a small, almost round, medieval village near Monsegur.



After that big day, we wandered some back roads to Esclottes [old church with an interesting cemetery], St Colombe de Duras [roman church]. Dieulivol [great view to Monsegur and another lovely church]. Then finally on to Monsegur which is another bastide. It has the arcaded town square and large metal framed halles. On the way home at Duras we stopped in at the Guinget chocolate shop. What an amazing array of treats. We could not resist some chocolate coated prunes and hazelnut sables.



We are almost at the end of our two weeks. On the way to St Emilion we had seen signs to the gallo roman archaeological site at Montcaret, so decided to visit. It is a mere 3 euro to enter. Here we found the remains of a villa from the 1st century, occupied until the 6th. A church was then built on top. There are some wonderful examples of mosaic work in baths, galleries and reception rooms. In one room there is a huge expanse of mosaic floors which were then dug up in places for tombs in medieval times. The tombs are still visible. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit and were the only ones there. We then continued up to Montpeyroux where there is an attractive private chateau. The country is lovely and we had planned a different route home, but that nemesis, route barree, popped up again and we returned the way we came.



It was harvest time while we were here and they had been going to harvest the grapes near us but it was delayed until after we departed. So more grapes for us. We did see lots of tractors with trailers dripping grape juice and smiled at the warning signs along the roads showing a sliding car above the words ‘ jus de raisin’.



Our two weeks had come to an end and it was time to tidy the gite, plan our route and pack our bags. It was a wonderful stay. We were blessed with great weather and enjoyed coming home to sit outside with a coffee and later, a glass of wine and dinner. It was time to move on to a completely new area – Basque country.

 

[Lisa in Ottawa]

What a wonderful trip. Great to be able to slow down and spend a week in each place.

 

[Roz]

I enjoyed reading your report, since it brought back memories of our visits to many of those places.

Since you say you were staying near Duras, you might enjoy this blog by a woman who bought a house there:
Someday I'll Live In ....
She also published a ebook about Duras: The Time and the Place: Turning Dreams to Duras in Southwest France, but you can get most of what's in the book, and more, from the blog.

 

[phirhon]

Thanks for that, Roz. I follow a few blogs from France and will add it to my collection. Reading them keeps me in touch with France between trips.

WEEK 4 – BASQUE COUNTRY.



It was raining as we left on Saturday morning but it was quick travelling as we were on major roads that took us around towns. The Landes is flat and not very interesting, but once we turned off the major road, it changed. We crossed the Adour River into the Pyrenees Atlantiques and from then on we began to see the red and white buildings so typical of the Basque region and the country was lush and green.



Our gite this week was in the small village of Sare and we were greeted warmly by the friendly owners and whisked into the kitchen for un petit cafe before being shown to the gite which adjoined their house. It was small but well appointed with a good kitchen and WIFI. A Basque cake awaited on the table and there was dozen eggs from Madame’s own chickens in the fridge. We will have frittata for dinner one night.



On Sunday we set out for a drive to La Bastide Clairance [PBV]. It was slow going as the roads were busy, narrow and there were lots of groups of cyclists which were difficult to pass. But finally we arrived at the village which is very pretty. The church there gave us our first glimpse of the wonderful churches of this region with the tiers of galleries around the sides. They are almost theatrical. We then came home by back roads, with a stop for a picnic. The views were wonderful with green hills and valleys and the lovely red and white [with an occasional black or green trim] villages. Later that afternoon, we followed the stone path from the gite into the village [about 1 km]. Sare is a lovely village with a small Spar and boulangeries, a boucherie under renovation and several restaurants. Once again there is a wonderful church with galleries. We followed people in costume and sat around the pelota court as the villagers rehearsed for a future event. We were treated to folk dancing, a wonderful Basque choir and a mock trial. It was lots of fun to watch.



Monday was nice and clear, so we took the first train of the day up La Rhune. The little train is a rack railway which travels slowly up the mountain. The views are wonderful as it goes up and you also see cattle, sheep and horses near the line. Once on top there are stunning 360 deg views down to the coast and inland. We spent a couple of hours up there walking around and watching the Basque ponies grazing. It was lovely and we enjoyed it immensely.



On Tuesday we drove down to St Jean Pied de Port which is where a lot of pilgrims begin their walk. It is a beautiful small town. P had to drag me out of a fragrant spice shop stocked with an amazing array of spices, salts and peppercorns. It is a lovely walk up the Rue de Citadelle past tall houses with inscriptions over the doors. Vauban’s influence could be seen in the Citadelle which is now a secondary school, and we walked around to the old bridge and back to town. On the way out we stopped in at a charcuterie which was an outlet for a farm and bought some dry chorizo and a boudin Basque paysan [boudin noir]. It was not pretty and brought to mind the children’s book “The Terrible Wild Grey Hairy Thing“.



We detoured through Irouleguy which is home to a very nice wine, before stopping in at Espelette, and it is here you see the houses with peppers drying on the front. It is an attractive village and was very busy with tourists and we liked it a lot. We added to our supplies with a piece of the regional cheese, Ossau Iraty aged for 17 months.



What did I do with our ugly boudin? It was too big for one meal, so the first night we sliced it and fried it. To accompany it, I sautéed eschalots, potatoes and lots of apple. It was very nice. The next time, we had my version of the basque dish Piperade with it, using madame’s eggs and peppers, and toasted baguette with lovely sea salt encrusted butter. Yum.



One day we drove down into Spain along what is known as the Smugglers’ trail, and first stop was the village of Zugarramurdi which is lovely with a large church and lots of red sandstone. We were surprised by the number of bars and restaurants in this small place, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. We then went on to Urdax which is another pretty place with a large monestery and a stream running through the village. Less attractive was the border town full of, we assumed, tax free or reduced tax shops. Ainhoa was our last stop for the morning. This is a PBV and is really just one street lined with typical basque houses. The cemetery was interesting with lots of simple headstones of a disc with engravings, sometimes the basque symbol and sometimes others.



After lunch at home we drove back into Spain, this time following a narrow winding road through dense but beautiful forest and over the Col de Lizarietta with some great views. We came to the charming village of Etxalar where we saw a variety of building types – basque, dark stone, small stone, rendered, half-timbered. There is a beautiful church with a lovely garden forecourt and more simple headstones. It was a lovely drive and after dinner we walked down the path to the village.



On Thursday we went through the tax free village again and up and over the Col de Goizamendi and back towards France through Erratzu and the Col dIspeguy. This is a wonderful drive with stunning views at every turn. We stopped in St Etienne de Baigorry which is a small village on the Aldudes River. There is a church beside the bridge across the river which makes a lovely photo, and further down is a lovely roman bridge. From St Etienne we began our drive down the pretty Aldudes Valley. Trout are farmed in the waters here. The Kintoa pig was a dying breed until farmers, in particular, Pierre Orteiza, began to develop the breed and they are now an industry here. Pierre has a shop and farm which you can visit and walk around to see the pigs. The nursery had several sows with adorable babies of various ages, and a longer walk allows you to see the free range animals and also provides stunning views of this beautiful valley. The walk took us up to lunch and the bistro offers enticing platters of charcuterie. We decided on one of pork and one of duck smallgoods. They were delicious and instead of wine we chose a basque cider which was just perfect. The cold, crisp cider paired very well with the richness of the charcuterie. After seeing those gorgeous babies, we did feel a bit awful coming away with some lovely jambon. We returned home the way we came and it was great to see the magnificent views from the opposite direction. It was a most enjoyable day.



A week goes so quickly, and soon it was Friday again, and we could not leave without a trip down to St Jean de Luz. This is a charming town on the Atlantic coast. We have not seen a lot of coastal France, so it was a treat to see the fishing boats and harbour and to walk along the front of the houses facing the sea. It was market day which added to the experience. We could not resist a stop in a lovely patisserie and also bought some bisque d’homard and a small jar of pastel d’anchou. Before leaving, we drove along the Corniche Basque for more views of the cliffs and sea.



This was a totally new region for us and it is certainly lovely and different from other regions. The Basque people are passionate about their culture and this was obvious all week. But it was time to move on to another new region. The bandaids are packed and, hopefully, the hiking boots are broken in enough because next stop is the Pyrenees!

 

[phirhon]

WEEKS 5& 6 –THE PYRENEES



We had to drive past St Jean Pied de Port so we stopped in for a baguette and some more chorizo, which was very nice, before continuing on the very scenic drive. We stopped in the small village of L’Hopital Blaise which is a stop on the pilgrim trail and has a charming little church. Laruns was busy as we drove through and began the climb up the Col d’ Aubisque. The road had lots of twists and turns and the scenery was spectacular. It was our first real sight of the mountains. The road from Argeles to Luz St Sauveur along the gorges of the Luz is attractive and before long we were at our next gite which was about 3kms outside Luz. St Sauveur. Once again the owners were friendly and the gite small but comfortable with bedrooms upstairs. The kitchen was more a kitchenette and the least well equipped of our trip, but it had most of what we needed and we coped. As long as I have an oven [not a microwave], I am happy. The view from the terrace across the stream and to the mountains was beautiful.



When planning our trips we are fortunate to have the luxury of time. We did think that weather could be an issue by this time, so we decided to spend two weeks here to allow us time to see and do what we wanted. On Sunday morning we went in to Luz for a wander and to find the supermarket which was open on Sunday, but closed for lunch during the week. We had a few on this trip which were not open on Sunday. We were a little disappointed. The Carrefour Market had outgrown its’ premises and was cramped, tired and did not have fuel. The lady in the TO was not very helpful and our brief walk did not really inspire us. But it would be fine.



I will state early on that we are not serious hikers, so do not expect amazing feats. P possibly could be if he was not handicapped by me. I walk everyday at home, but no hills are involved. So I hoped we were not too ambitious. After lunch we set out for our first foray into the mountains. We continued up the narrow valley to Gedre and on to the Barrage des Gloriettes. It was a lovely drive, There were lots of people there and we set out across the dam wall and walked up along the pretty stream past cascades until we reached the Cirque d’ Estaube. It was just beautiful and we loved it – the gorgeous weather, the wonderful scenery, the friendly walkers. We must have said Bonjour a hundred times.



The weather forecast was clear on Monday and was ideal for visiting the Pic du Midi Bigorre. Off we went, up and over the iconic Col de Tourmalet and on to La Mongie which is a ski resort. Now I am sure this looks beautiful when covered in snow, but at this time, a more unappealing place I could not imagine. But it is where the cable car departs up to Pic du Midi. At 38 euro per person, it is not cheap, but we enjoyed it .The views that unfold as it rises up are wonderful and once on top it is just amazing. It is quite barren in places but beautiful at the same time. We felt on top of the world. The museum has a fascinating display of photos showing the history of the observatory and also of the night sky. We spent a couple of hours up there just absorbing it all before we enjoyed the ride back down. It was well worth it and we were lucky to have such a clear day.



We returned home for lunch and the spent the afternoon finding more about Luz. First stop was the Pont Napoleon which is impressive in its’ position over the gorge. We then walked up to the Chapel Solferino which looks over the town and across to the ruins of the Chateau Sainte Marie. Then we went across town and walked up the steep and rocky path to the ruins of the chateau. We are warming to Luz. It was a good day.



On Sunday we had discovered the sign in town that informed us that the road out to Argeles would be closed all day Monday to Friday from 9-5, with the exception of Mon and Wed when it would be open 12-2. So we needed to take that into account. We also had to break me in gently. On Tuesday we drove up to the village of Gavarnie and continued on for a further 11kms to the Col de Tentes. The road is winding and narrow, but it was so exhilarating as we drove up into the mountains. A short 10 min walk brought us to a small mountain lake. After that we followed the path that led us to the Porte de Boucharo where we looked over to the mountains in Spain. The rocky path then climbed up and along a ridge towards the Breche de Roland and we enjoyed the views which included a frozen waterfall. It was a good starter for me and we walked for over an hour before returning to the car park for lunch. We read later that we could have continued on to the point where we could climb up beside a waterfall with the help of chains. Really?? Does that sound like me? P was a bit disappointed. We ate our picnic sitting on the soft grass with the warm sun on our backs gazing at the magnificence of it all. It was definitely a ‘pinch me’ moment. After lunch we climbed the nearby hill to the Pic de Tentes for views the other way and down the valley to Gavarnie. It was a great day.



On Wednesday we left before the road closed, and after getting fuel in Argeles we drove along very narrow but scenic roads following a gentle stream as it passed through attractive but very quiet villages. We drove a high loop with wonderful views and came back out at Lourdes. I know some people would not understand why we did not visit Lourdes during our stay, but in all honesty, it held no appeal for us. After a quick stop at the larger Carrefour in Argeles, we joined the queue to get back to Luz before the road closed at 2 o’clock.



Thursday dawned showery, so we stayed close to home. Another visit to Luz endeared it to us even more. We discovered the impressive church, Les Templiers. It is a true fortified church enclosed in strong walls with a lovely painted ceiling over the altar, and painted roof over the porch. We also found an excellent charcuterie/boucherie where we bought a regional blue cheese and a delicious terrine, and a small Carrefour Montagne which was a lot more appealing. There were also a couple of restaurants to consider. That afternoon we drove up to the small villages of Sazos and Grust on the side of the hill. From these there are magnificent views over the valley and down to Luz itself. Then over to the other side to Saligos which we could see from our front door. Lying in bed at night we could hear the church clock chime the hour – very useful in the middle of the night!! Cheze has an interesting pigeonier and lavoir and all the villages still looked lovely with lots of bright flowers.



The rain set in the next day so we had a quiet day. We decided to go out to dinner on Saturday night, so went in at lunch to make a booking at L’Atelier. The cafes were the only places open. We went back in at 4 and the place was buzzing again. It was a delicious blueberry tart we bought and very nice with crème fraiche.



So Saturday dawned cold and clear, with a smattering of snow on the mountain tops, and the road was open. We set off to Argeles and then to Cauterets. The road from Cauterets to Pont d’Espagne is winding but scenic and passes several cascades with large volumes of water flowing down. It was very cold. Pont d’Espagne is impressive, not the bridge itself so much as the wonderful setting over a chasm in the rock with water gushing out. In summer there is a cable car up to Lac de Gaube, but it was closed, so the only option was to walk and there were plenty of people setting out. The book describes it as pleasant walk and the sign said an hour. It started out as a path but soon became rocky and climbed continuously. The scenery was wonderful with glimpses of mountains through the trees and water flowing down, but a pleasant walk? I am pleased to say I was not the only one stopping for a rest. It took us, me and a very patient P, a little longer than an hour, but was so worth it when we reached the pristine mountain lake surrounded by snow capped mountains. It was wonderful. Coming down was not much quicker with my limp spaghetti legs. Our treat that night was dinner out at L’Atelier where we had a lovely meal in pleasant surrounds with great service.



The other ‘must see’ here is, of course, the Cirque de Gavarnie. On Sunday we again drove along the winding, scenic road to Gavarnie. There are several walks to do here, but we just did the basic one most do and walked from the village along the stream into the Cirque. It starts out flat and then begins to climb with a better path than yesterday. It was quite magnificent being surrounded by the high walls and seeing the Grand cascade and other smaller falls. We stopped at the hostellerie which was closed, but you can continue on to the waterfall. It was a lovely walk with a bit more climbing than we (I) expected.



Next day my legs needed a break so we drove over Col de Tourmalet again and onto the Col d’Aspin which is prettier country, not so barren. The Cols are all really impressive drives and we enjoyed each drive we did. We had a picnic beside Lac Payolle with a different view of Pic du Midi. Around La Mongie and Bareges, workers were beginning to set up for the coming ski season. It was a nice restful day.



Tuesday was quite foggy to start, but it started to clear, so we took a chance and went up to the Cirque de Troumouse. The small village of Heas is just past the Barrage des Gloriettes and has a charming chapel with slate roof. It is then a wonderful drive, winding and narrow, up into the Cirque which just surrounds you. It is almost a perfect circle, quite open and very different from Gavarnie. The silence was absolute and we were alone in this magnificent space. There is a small hill topped by a statue, the Vierge de Troumouse, in the centre, and from there is an unimpeded view. We then walked along the path towards Lac des Aires past little mirror like tarns. P has a great photo of snow capped mountains reflected in a tarn. It was awe inspiring and memorable and I think we enjoyed it more than Gavarnie.



There are so many walks to do in this region and plenty for novices like us. Another one we did was from the Hautacam ski resort to Lac d’Isaby. It was heavy fog as we drove up, but as we ate our lunch it cleared away and we were able to walk for a couple of hours before it closed in again as we drove down. We met a young hunter with two beautiful dogs, but no dead animals.



Another day we drove up to St Savin which is a pretty village with a large church whose terraces overlook the valley. We then followed back roads along a flowing stream to Lac d’Estaing where we had our picnic before walking up along the stream for about an hour until we reached a large cascade. It was a pleasant walk with the autumn colours just becoming more obvious.



On our last day we went into Luz for lunch at Les Templiers which is opposite the impressive church. It was a set menu, all delicious, and a nice way to finish our time here. Our stay in the Pyrenees was all we had hoped it would be and we did most of what we planned. It is hard to find words to really convey how magnificent the mountains, the scenery and the fabulous drives are. Of course others would do a lot more serious hikes, but it was perfect for us. And no blisters! It was time to move on to the Tarn, but not the gorges.

 

[phirhon]

WEEKS 7&8 – The TARN [ not the gorges].



We left about 9 and it was a lovely drive as we could still see the mountains and the Pic du Midi for a while. We stopped for a baguette [very rustic] in a small village and by lunch the countryside was changing. It was starting to feel like the south especially once we started driving along avenues of trees. Yes, I know we were already in the south, but I am sure you know what I mean. The country and the villages were changing. We stopped in Villemur sur Tarn for a break. It is very attractive along the river and the church was of reddish brown bricks. Our gite for the next two weeks was in a small hamlet about 10 minutes out of Albi and just off the road to Cordes. It was lovely – very nicely furnished, with a good kitchen, and it also had an inviting terrace. The weather was still mild enough to sit outside during the day. These were the first owners who could speak a little English.



The country was looking lovely with lots of autumn colours as we drove around the villages near our little hamlet. We found an epicerie for a baguette about 7 kms away, but that seemed to be it. While we were rarely out of sight of a farmhouse or small village, there were no shops within a 6-7km radius of our gite. This is not a huge issue for us as we go out every day, but we did wonder where all these people get their daily bread. We found a very nice restaurant at Cestayrols [9kms] and planned to visit in our second week only to find out too late it was closed for that week. The little villages were charming though, in beautiful surrounds. Albi supermarkets do not open on Sunday so we came prepared. We went into the Eleclerc on Monday afternoon, but then found a small Intermarche closer in Cagnac which suited us.



After lunch on our terrace, we set out for the village of Monesties [PBV]. We enjoyed the drive over but the village itself just did not appeal. This happens sometimes. It was pretty enough with some nice old buildings and a lovely church. But it just seemed run down, untidy with weeds and rubbish and there was an unpleasant smell everywhere. And of course, Sunday afternoon meant nothing was open. So we went further down the road and stopped in the old village Salles sur Vere and we enjoyed our walk there.



On our way to Castelnau de Montmiral [PBV] next morning we stopped in the small but pretty village of Vieux and we also passed a wonderful old pigeonier. This area has some lovely examples of these, both old and more modern.



Castelnau is just beautiful and very clean and tidy. The central square is gorgeous with arcades, half timbered buildings and houses with small red bricks. There are a couple of restaurants on the square. The church has a lovely blue painted ceiling .and a reliquary cross set with precious and semi precious stones. At the entrance to the town I added to my collection of war memorial photos. We then drove on up to Puycelsi [PBV]. This is a fortified village with walls, lovely streets and houses. The church here also has a painted blue ceiling. It was smaller than Castelnau and other than an auberge for accommodation, we saw no shops. Once again, another clean and tidy village and we enjoyed both immensely.



It was cloudy next morning when we left to drive up to Najac [PBV]. We skirted around Cordes sur Ciel and then stopped in Laguepie. This is such an old village and we walked down to the river to see the chateau ruins above the viaduct. We also bought our baguette for lunch. We followed a narrow road across to Najac which was shrouded in fog. The village is built along a ridge with a chateau at the top and is really one long street. It was very different from those we saw yesterday. Help.! I need some new adjectives. The houses are connected and have little balconies with wrought iron rails, and there were lots of autumn toned creepers. It is just gorgeous. We went into the chateau which is just ruins, and climbed the 119 steps of the tower for a wonderful view over the village. My advice is to wear comfortable shoes for walking in some of these old, sometimes steep villages. The fog had lifted, so we went back out to the belvedere to look back at the village. This is such an impressive sight. It is amazing how these villages were built.



After a picnic lunch, we left Najac and drove through the forest which was the whole palette of glorious autumn colours. We came across the charming 13th century Pont St Blaise which is still in use. We detoured through Verfeil [small but pretty] and then stopped in Varen which is really nice. There is a large Doyenne abbey church, dean’s house and medieval building, and it is a lovely walk through the streets past some attractive old houses to and along the river. Well worth the stop. It was a lovely day.



We had a bleak, rainy morning one day but by lunch it had cleared and we went down to Gaillac which is well known for its’ very nice wine. It also has an impressive cathedral beside the bridge over the river. It was hard to photograph well as it was covered in scaffolding, but the view of the town from the bridge is very nice. A lot of the buildings are of flat, thin red brick and there are some attractive squares and interesting modern fountains and shops. We stopped at the larger Intermarche here a couple of times when we were in the vicinity.



Thursday was foggy and cool, so we left later and stopped in at L’Isle sur Tarn. The centre of town is a wonderful treed square with arcades all around, mostly red brick, but some wood in places. It is really attractive. We then returned to Castelnau and went to lunch at La Menagier on the square. It was an autumn themed menu du jour with a terrine of venison, hare and chestnut which came garnished with apple, hazelnuts and little redcurrants. I had ‘papilotte de truite au citron’ [trout in filo] and it was superb. Dessert was blancmanger aux figues. Now I used to make blancmange when our children were young, but this was so far removed from the blancmange that I remember. And topped by fig puree and a poached fig, it was divine and capped off a wonderful lunch.



Foggy starts became regular occurrences now and there was very low cloud as we set out through Albi on the way to Ambialet, but it soon burnt off. We drove along the Tarn and went through two tunnels, one almost 1km long. They were the narrowest tunnels [1.8 m wide] we have ever been through and cars had to inch past each other. Very scary! Ambialet is a quiet little village on a loop of the river and we drove up to the Priory [it has an attractive church] to look back over the river. We had lunch in the park and then meandered our way home by quiet back roads. The country was looking lovely with lots of agriculture. We ended up on the road past and under the Viaduc de Viaur which is quite impressive viewed from there and later from the viewpoint. It was a lovely drive.



It was clear when we left, but foggy and cool by the time we arrived at St Antonin Noble Val. This is an attractive town on the Aveyron River. The buildings are quite tall and the streets narrow and we followed a walk around the town to see the highlights. We bought a slice of ‘Le jacquou’ which was described as a speciality. It was a pastry slice filled with prunes, raisins, honey and nuts. I have to say, it was very nice. We drove up to the belvedere which gives a terrific view over the river and village. After leaving St Antonin we continued on to Penne, and once again had a stunning view of the village as we approached. Penne is quite small but really lovely with ruins of a chateau and some attractive small streets and houses. Last stop of the day was Bruniquel. This region has an abundance of beautiful villages and this was no exception. We walked through the attractive gate and up to the two chateaux at the top and the view as we left was impressive.



Sunday was a beautiful day and we finally went into Albi. We found a park close to the bridge and walked across. This is such beautiful place. We stopped in at the covered market before arriving at the cathedral which is almost impossible to describe. It is just breath taking both inside and out. Small terracotta bricks allow the shape to form and it is huge. Inside it is superbly painted and has a large pipe organ. The choir is just stunning with fine, intricate stone work that is like lace. It is just magnificent. We also visited the Toulouse Lautrec museum which is housed in the Berbie Palace. We are not very well versed in art, but we both really enjoyed seeing his huge body of work and different styles. It also gives you the chance to see this lovely building. The gardens overlooking the river are attractive as well. Albi is a lovely place to wander and we enjoyed our walk around among the old buildings and big open squares. We saw T-L’s birthplace. Add in his grave in Verdelais and we have come full circle. It was a most enjoyable day.



The first view of Cordes sur Ciel high on a hill as you approach from Albi is amazing and I can see why this village is so popular with visitors. It is quite a steep village, of course, with cobblestone streets, halles, several gates, squares, and terraces with lovely views of the surrounding country. There are some superb old houses with arched doorways and windows, carved animals and gargoyles and they almost look like abbeys or convents. Of course there are also plenty of shops and cafes to cater for the tourists who flock here, if the number of car parks is any indication.



Tuesday 1st November was All Saints Day and the supermarkets were only open in the morning. We had read about the Sidobre region south of Albi, and as there was an Intermarche in Realmont we decide to stop there for the few things we needed. Most important was wine and dessert, but of course, when we got there it was not open. The Sidobre is a small plateau made of granite and covered by forests and huge rock formations some of which have names. It was a pretty drive, but once there it was difficult to find any signs and no TO open anywhere. After driving around for a while we finally found Peyro Clabado, a large balancing boulder. It was quite impressive. We spotted a car park sign for the ‘Riviere de Pierre’ and toiled up through the forest, clambered over rocks and finally arrived at large rocks tumbling down over each other. It was definitely a river of rocks. We did not need to find out that the road we had been on went right past it. Frustrating, but we needed the exercise. We also found the Roc de l’Oie, and yes, it does resemble a goose. Even the picnic tables were granite and it is the industry in the small village of Lacrouzette. We could not believe how mild it still was. As we returned through Albi we looked for something open but to no avail until, at the very last moment, as we were almost out the other side, I spotted a little Utile supermarket open. Crisis averted! We bought a bottle of rose, some little pots of crème caramel, a loaf of Harry’s brioche, a capsicum for my flageolet bean salad, and a block of dark chocolate. We did not really need the chocolate, but what the heck.



Sometimes we just enjoy the drives around so one day we wandered around the country in among grapevines and agriculture with stops in small villages such as La Verdier and Vaour. We spotted some unfamiliar sausages at the deli – saucisse de Couenne. I asked about them and was told pork and spices. We are always prepared to try new things so we bought some. Google informed us they were a speciality of this region and are made from pork rind. Interesting. They were quite coarse and gelatinous, and while they did have a little of what I call the ‘farmyard smell’, they were not as strong as andouille, which P enjoys, and I did not mind them. One afternoon we went for a long walk along the roads around our hamlet and watched farmers busy planting and spraying. It was lovely country.



So another two weeks are over and we have two left. We really enjoyed this region and there are so many beautiful places to visit. To-morrow we are off to the Creuse.

 

[phirhon]

WEEK 9 – The CREUSE



Well, somebody flicked the switch and winter is here. We had not yet had to use any heating, but that was about to change. We had a wet trip today, but still enjoyed the drive up through Cordes and past abbeys beside the road. We passed through Figeac which we visited in 2012 and drove through the Aveyron which is a beautiful area. We followed the autoroute up past Limoges before turning off to travel cross country as we had plenty of time. We passed a group of hunters and their dogs, a motley collection of various breeds, running along the road with great enthusiasm and focus.



Our gite this week was a few kms outside the town of La Souterraine near the small village of St Agnant de Versillat. This is the very north of the Creuse, almost into Indre. This was a new area for us again. I think France is a bottomless pit of new regions to visit. It was an old house renovated into a very comfortable gite with a lovely modern kitchen, but it still retained the charm of the old bread oven in the wall of the dining area. The owners had no English, but monsieur said ‘Australie. Rugby’, mimed passing the ball and there was a thumbs up and a handshake.



Sunday dawned cold and foggy. We went into La Souterraine to find the supermarket and get some things, and also went into the nearby village where we were delighted to find a boulangerie and a small bistro. It is looking good. After an early lunch at home we set out for a bit of a wander. The country was just gorgeous. It was a lot flatter than what we had been seeing previously, lovely and green and the forests were just glorious. Just how many shades of colour from lemon through to deep red are there? We do get some autumn colour where we live, but nothing like we were seeing and we loved it. I added another impressive war memorial to my collection in Dun le Palestal. Celle Dunois is a very pretty village on the Creuse River with a lovely bridge and church. We then meandered our way home through the country to La S. After a stop to view the old La Tour Bridiers, we went into the historic centre of La S which is neatly paved and tidy. It has a large gate and lovely big church which is on the pilgrim route. We have seen so many places on the pilgrim route [I know there are several] in our travels.



Rain was forecast, but Monday was clear and cold with ice on the car and frost everywhere. We set out for Bellac along a busy road full of trucks. Bellac was very quiet as we walked through, found the church and then continued downhill to the Pont de la Pierre, a sweet little arched stone bridge. We continued on to Mortemart [PBV] which is a small but charming village with some beautiful buildings- halles, Couvent des Carmes and an Augustin convent. But we really enjoyed the interior of the church, particularly the choir. The seats were all up and under each is a fantastic carved animal or creature, and at each entrance and end, carved people. It was fascinating. We stopped in Blond to see the large fortified church before meandering home through the forests with numerous stops for yet more photos.



Our days were starting later as we waited for the fog to lift. On Tuesday we drove through some nice little villages before reaching Crozant where there are the ruins of a chateau. We found the viewpoint and it was very atmospheric in the mist. We then continued up to Gargilesse [PBV] which is dominated by the chateau and large church. The church has a fascinating crypt with frescoes and the tombs of the marquis and counts of Gargilesse. Argenton sur Creuse is a larger town on the river with some nice river views. It was very busy as we drove through with one quite alarming intersection. We do not really enjoy busy. We were looking for the Gallo Roman amphitheatre and we finally found it. We have nothing like this in Australia, so we always find it amazing to see something so impressive just there for people to wander in at will.



There are some things we eat in France that we do not cook at home. One of those is duck which is not as readily available and is more expensive where we live. We especially enjoy the magret [breast] and in the supermarkets in this region we could only find filet which is also breast. The difference is that the magret comes from ducks fattened for foie gras, and this is the one we prefer. Still, the filet went very nicely with some warmed flageolet beans with some crème fraiche added. We get all sorts of beans in cans here but no flageolet beans which we have come to enjoy in France. We also enjoy gesiers de canard in a salad, confit and cuisses braised in red wine. Other things we really like are Morteau and Montbeliard sausages, not the mass produced ones, but rather the ones bought loose from the boucherie or deli. They are more rustic in appearance and much nicer, we think. The same applies to boudin blanc which we have bought at markets and from the deli. One day, at home, I will attempt my own boudin blanc.



Winter is certainly here and it was quite cold when we visited the village of St Benoit de Sault [PBV]. It was larger than we expected with a new part around the historic old section. We picked up a map from the TO and followed the walk around the old part which was interesting. Part is an old fort and as well as little streets and attractive buildings there is a gate and clock tower.



On Thursday we drove across towards Noth with a detour into the forest to see the Chateau de Cazine which is now a luxury hotel. We can only dream of staying in such a place. After a stop in Noth to see the fortified church, we drove through the pretty little village of Le Grand Bourg and on to Benevant l’Abbaye. It is a lovely sight as you drive in and it was a busy little place on a cold November morning. The large Abbatiale is very attractive and we also discovered a house with an elaborate tower. It was a ‘folly’ built by a merchant and he called it his chateau. It was a nice little place. A little further on, we stopped in Mourioux, a tiny village, where a kind gentleman saw us at the church and unlocked it for us. It is 13th century and has a different, attractive interior of stone walls.



All these places were not far away and we were back at home just in time to visit the little Bistro Mel-Lou in St Agnant for lunch. Luckily we had made a booking as it was almost full. It is a quirky little place with retro decor and old LPs as place mats. It was good, simple French food and heaps of it. We had chicken liver quiche to start, P had tete de veau with sauce gribiche and I had coq au vin as our mains, and pain perdu for dessert. No dinner for us that night. Before going home we stopped in at the cemetery to see the Lanterne des Morts. We have seen a few of these in our travels around France.



Our last day was on Armistice Day and we saw services and wreaths at memorials as we drove around. On the same day in 2010, we climbed the Roche de Solutre in Burgundy. It was cold, so rabbit braised in white wine with lardons and mushrooms really hit the spot.



This is a quiet area, but very beautiful. There is, of course, a lot of agriculture and the paddocks look lovely separated by small hedges. The forests were just superb, and it is dotted with lots of small but charming villages. It is probably less well known, but we really enjoyed our stay. And because of our location, there is a whole lot more to the south to see another time. We are now coming into our last week, and we will be spending it in a region we love – Burgundy.

 

[phirhon]

WEEK 10 – BURGUNDY– Saone et Loire.



We enjoyed the drive that morning as we were passing through country we had visited before. We stayed in the Allier in 2008 and 2010 and passed quite close to our base. Culan has an impressive chateau, and we stopped in Souvigny which has an outstanding Priory church and is considered a Grand site of the Auvergne. We then detoured to Digoin to see the canal bridge over the Loire and also discovered the superb grey and white stone church.



Our gite this week was in the small town of Charolles. We have visited Charolles twice, in 2010 and 2014, on drives from our base near Cormatin. It is an appealing small town with some interesting historic buildings and a nice centre. Just an average town, I suppose, but of the kind that appeals to us. Madame had the wood fire burning and the coffee brewing when we arrived. The gite was old and belonged to her grandmother, and it felt as though she was just out and we were guests in her home. There were bits and pieces around, and bookshelves over flowing with books and we were very comfortable there. Unfortunately it was too cold to sit out in the little garden.



We had hoped to walk down to the centre on Sunday, but it was raining so we drove instead and found the supermarket, boulangerie and an interesting boucherie/ charcuterie. There are some restaurants, one with 1 michelin star. It cleared a little later and we went for a short drive around nearby. If I am honest, after a long trip, we find our last week is a bit of a wind down week with some lovely drives and walks around and time to enjoy just being there.



It was brighter on Monday and we set out for Anzy le Duc.. We stopped in Lugny les Charolles to admire the lovely golden stone church with a chateau behind and above it. It is most attractive. We detoured off to drive through the little village of Montceaux l’Etoile and were pleased we did. It is lovely driving in by a low stone wall with a tower in the distance. The tower was built by an Italian adventurer, but its’ actual purpose is unknown. The church is golden stone with bell tower and lovely carved tympan portail. When I told Madame we had visited, she said this was one of her favourite churches. Next stop was Anzy le Duc which is all about the magnificent abbatiale and priory. The latter is now privately owned, but you can enter the first courtyard to view the lovely buildings. The church has the same carved portail as Montceaux l’Etoile , but on a larger scale. Inside are large columns and frescoes around the altar, and the crypt with domed ceilings can also be visited. This region is renowned for its’ Romanesque churches and there are some wonderful examples.



In Semur en Brionnais we saw the remains of the Chateau d’Hugues and a large priory which is still in use. This is, of course, Charolais territory, and St Christope en Brionnais is renowned for the large cattle market that is held there each Wednesday. Oye was another charming stop. Each time we drive around the Brionnais region, we are reminded just how beautiful it is. The scenery is just gorgeous with hedged fields, white charolais cattle, lovely farm buildings, large houses that almost could be small chateaux, and charming little villages. And yet, a lot of people will probably never have heard of it.



On Tuesday, we planned lunch out at a small restaurant we found in the small village of Champlecy, only a few kms outside Charolles. We took the scenic route and detoured off to see the Chateau Chamont. There is a pretty chateau but what really impressed us were the stables. At first we thought they were the chateau as they were just magnificent, with three large staircases and statues. We found out later they are being restored and will be open to the public. We also detoured along a back road [you will have gathered by now that we are pretty good at this!] to find the private chateau of Champvent. It is another fairytale chateau with a lake in front, but in reality, is just someone’s home. Lunch after all this was lovely. We had

delicious oeufs meurette for starters. I must learn to make these as well. We liked the sound of the other menus as well, so we made a booking for our last night.



The rain was staying away and we drove up to Paray le Monial which is in an attractive position on the river and canal. We visited the cloisters and then the enormous basilica, Sacre Coeur, which is a small scale version of the abbey at Cluny. It has some quite modern features in the lights and the stations of the cross. The historic part of town is lovely with paved streets and some historic buildings such as the Tour of St Nicholas and the former ‘hotel particular’ which is now the Hotel de Ville. It has a lovely carved front. In the Chapelle de Colombier, which was built by the Jesuits, there are some lovely mosaics. We really enjoyed our visit to this small town.



On Thursday it was still fine, so we drove down to La Clayette which is a pretty little town with some interesting shops. You cannot miss the fairytale chateau beside the lake on the main road through. You can imagine Rapunzel at a tower window. It is beautiful but not open to the public. We then followed the stream to Chateauneuf where the chateau is beside the golden stone church above the village. We were still seeing lovely large houses, some with towers. At Moussy sous Dun there is a viaduct for the railway line, and it looks impressive towering over the farms and village. The road then climbs up to Dun, and about 300 m off the road is the Montagne de Dun where there is a 12th century chapel and offers a magnificent panorama over this gorgeous Burgundian countryside. One final stop and we saw our last Romanesque church in the small village of Ste Marie du Bois. We never cease to be amazed by the churches that can be found in some of these tiny places. All in all, it was a lovely day out.



So it is Friday again, our last day, and the weather has set in a little. We have to really get organised and pack our bags properly, use up, leave behind [olive oil, vinegar, etc], or dispose of the things we have accumulated [assorted containers] over our time here. We went for a last look around town and stopped in at the charcuterie for two aiguelettes de saumon – salmon set in light aspic with a little mayo and a slice of boiled egg. It was perfect with fresh baguette for lunch. That night we went out for dinner in Champlecy and toasted the end of another unforgettable trip.



Saturday saw us driving back through the beautiful country. We skirted along the edge of the Beaujolais region. Here we had a stop for about 15mins as the runners in the Marathon de Beaujolais crossed the road. Lucky we were not in a hurry. We said goodbye to our faithful little car at Lyon airport and began our long journey home.



Conclusion..



Once again France did not disappoint. We have some unforgettable memories, wonderful photos and some extra kilos. We always say that will be it for a while, but in a year or so, one of us will find the other surreptitiously looking at gites. A lot of planning and research goes into our trips, but it does reward us once we are there. All our gites this time were booked through Gites de France and we were happy with them. For us, this is a rewarding and most affordable way to travel. I have enjoyed reliving our trip once again. Please feel free to ask me any questions.



Au revoir.

 

[Amy]

Wonderful report! I've been reading it while looking at a map, with yet another window open for searching for photos of some of the towns and sites mentioned. You certainly got to enjoy some fabulous areas! At some point, would you mind posting some of the URLs for the gites you were most happy with or briefly summarizing them in the Reviews forum? I'm always looking for good, reasonably priced gites.

 

[phirhon]

Amy, I confess I rarely recommend places. I look at links that others post of places they stayed. From this , I have realised that most people have a much bigger budget than we do . We do not stay in places with enough restaurants for a week. When we have given info , the people involved complained. You did not tell us the bathroom was small/ no dishwasher/no WIFI/no restaurants in walking distance etc. We are pretty easy going but from reading reviews, I realise that a lot of people are not. We were satisfied with all our gites, and some were better than others. But I know that they would not be what a lot of people want. They were all booked through Gites de France, and some do also appear on other sites.

 

[Pauline]

Amy, I confess I rarely recommend places. I look at links that others post of places they stayed. From this , I have realised that most people have a much bigger budget than we do.

Another thing that people want from reviews is to know that a place is legit. That when you turn up there will be someone there and you will get the apartment/house you booked. That the apartment/house is well represented by the owner's listing. And that a place has been looked after. That it doesn't need to be cleaned before you unpack (we have rented places like that).

I think that when reading reviews it is the responsibility of the reader to go over the details of the rental from the owners listing, not to rely on what the reviewer has written. The reviewer does not have to describe the rental in detail - that info is on the owner's listing.

On ST we took all reviews but that became problematic when we had bad reviews. On Slow Europe we don't call them reviews, but recommendations - a special place that you liked and would recommend to other travelers.

If any of your rentals from this trip stand out as being very good value for money, or just some special place that you loved, I invite you to add a review to this trip report or to the Recommended Vacation Rentals forums. Many people on this forum choose vacation rentals based on a strict budget. But I completely understand if you don't want to do this. We all appreciate the great information you are giving us with this trip report.

 

[chachalaca]

This is a great trip report!! Thank you! I'm noting the specifics of week four as we'll be in that area this summer.