Croatia Advice Please!

[artnbarb]

Reading thru the list of prizes for the contest got me thinking, and Croatia is now very much on my radar. I'm not sure that we'll go this year or next, but Croatia interests me much more than Sicily right now. The logistics are much easier from our base in Umbria - we can take the ferry over from Ancona. Taking the ferry also means we can take our car , assuming the rental agencies allow it. That's something else I need to find out.

Here are my initial questions, in no particular order:

• One week minimum, and if only one week, where? Hvar? Dubrovnick? Split? If we can stay for a second week, where would that be? Or maybe a gullet? No, I think we'll be too late in the season. which brings me to my next question:
• Any big variations between Sept and October? How late in October? Is August too hot, too crowded?

Even if I don't win the contest, I'd like to rent that apartment in Hvar!

 

[artnbarb]

No one's been to Croatia? I'm shocked!

 

[DragansDen]

Hi, how are you? Are you ready for Croatia

I have been. Croatia has many more islands and beaches than Italy. Sea is crystal clear at any time of the day. I suggest Kril.hr catamarans and south islands hopping. Split - Hvar - Korcula, and Dubrovnik. Korcula is a great pick from the cuisine and wine region. 2 weeks is a better option. Croatia has so much to see. In addition to the south island, NP Plitvice lakes will be magical to go see.

From Italy to Croatia by ferry, check Jadrolonija,hr and Blue Lines. Bari Ancona and Venice have a direct boat connection to Croatia. The train is the fastest transport inside Italy. Book hotels/hostels Booking.com, Hostelworld or Google hotels/hostels. Hope it helps, cheers.

 

[kupus]

There are 5-6 great Croatian towns S of Plitvice Lakes and not too out of the way: Split (a little south), Trogir, Zadar, Sibenik, Rovinj. 2 nights in Zadar might be fun. I don't see how the islands would fit into such a compressed time frame. I would go to PL, and then S to the coast, maybe 2 nights in Trogir, 1 in Zadar. The Croatian coastal towns are all quite unique, but there is a strong pattern to them - all made of limestone block, all with nice little cafes, all with friendly Croatian hosts. But if you go to Trogir or Zadar, you get the flavor. Dubrovnik is the best of them, although Kotor is also pretty cool. But those are quite south.

 

[WanderWoman]

I was in Croatia for several weeks this time last year. I had a few limitations on my movements though: 1. I was working online while traveling around, so it wasn't a pure vacation. 2. I was on a very tight budget and that dictated a lot of where I went and what I did and 3. I was also planning and booking at the last minute (like, days ahead of time), so that affected it as well.

Despite those limitations, I absolutely fell in love with the country. After a couple of weeks in Zagreb, I spent my time in/around Split and on one of the villages on Hvar, Jelsa. I wanted to go to Dubrovnik but it was just a bit too pricey for me at the time (it's not actually expensive, just compared to other parts of Croatia, and, like I said, tight budget!) Anyway, my point here is that I think it's very hard to go wrong in where you go along the coast--my planning was haphazard and I still felt like I was in paradise!

I would take a couple of weeks if possible and would highly recommend a couple of days in Split and some island hopping if you just have one week. One thing to look at for Sept/Oct: I was also there in a shoulder season (April/May) and there are fewer ferry services and services in general. For that reason, Sept. may suit you better than Oct. In the time I was in and around Split, as April passed into May, more things opened and more things were available (ie even beach umbrellas at one beach weren't for rent until the season picked up in May). By the time I left in mid-May it was starting to get busier and I would think August would be very crowded. (Also possibly hot, but it was unseasonably hot in Croatia last spring and in all of Europe last summer, so I think summers there are normally milder.)

 

[artnbarb]

Initially I was hoping for 2 weeks in Croatia with only 2 bases, but that just doesn't seem practical, at least for the way we travel. By that I mean that we'll want to see as much as we can of the area, and won't have many 'down' days for just hanging around the apartment. Now I need to do more research and figure out how many stops and how many nights in each place.

 

[WanderWoman]

If it helps at all, the three places I most regret not making it to and that I'll prioritize next time I go are Pula, Dubrovnik, and Korcula. (I really love Roman history/ruins, though, so Pula might be less of a priority for someone who didn't.)

 

[rogers]

We're spending this summer vacation there (that's going to be in June; we hope it won't be too hot but the sea temperature would warm enough for a swim). Plitvice Lakes National Park has always been on our travel list but we couldn't decide whether to go to Pula or Dubrovnik but finally decided on the latter but only for two days. A week will be spent in Omis -- going to the beach, rafting, mountain climbing and hiking and stuff like that. But what I like most about Pula region, besides its gorgeous beaches, is that for a couple of days you can easily visit eastern Italy from there

 

[Shannon]

Barb, sorry I did not see this before. I stay at Andro's (the place in Hvar) every year, have been in late August, September and October (plus April May and June...) I would say the best time to go is late September or early October. You can go in late October but what is open will totally depend on the weather. If it starts to cool down, things close down. If it stays hot and sunny they stay open.

August is hot and crowded in Hvar Town, for me it is OK because I just avoid the center of town and go to other places on the island. As soon as you leave Hvar Town there is a big, wild island to explore. But for sure I prefer late September and early October. Some people are OK with just a day or two in Hvar, but I love it there and could spend weeks. If you have a car to explore the island, spend at least four days.

If you go to Dubrovnik, again, it is better to not go in August.. though I have been in August and had a blast. Better to go in May, or late September/early October. Last year I was there in the end of October and the weather was insanely good so everything was still open. If you decide to go with a car, maybe stay outside the city in Lapad and take the bus into town. It would be a bit of a pain to have a car staying IN Dubrovnik, I reckon.

There is plenty to do between Hvar/Split/Dubrovnik and surrounds to keep you busy for two weeks. If you can spare more time, head on up to Istria for another week. Its a bit of a trek though and as far as I know there are no car ferries from Istria back to Italy.

If you do end up going to Hvar and/or Dubrovnik I can give you some food and wine tips, I have lots of favorite places.. and Andro, owner of the apartment is super, he knows everything and everyone. I can't imagine not going back to see him and his lovely mama and papa every year. Maybe if you go this September I try to meet you there

 

[rogers]

Barb, sorry I did not see this before. I stay at Andro's (the place in Hvar) every year, have been in late August, September and October (plus April May and June...) I would say the best time to go is late September or early October. You can go in late October but what is open will totally depend on the weather. If it starts to cool down, things close down. If it stays hot and sunny they stay open.

August is hot and crowded in Hvar Town, for me it is OK because I just avoid the center of town and go to other places on the island. As soon as you leave Hvar Town there is a big, wild island to explore. But for sure I prefer late September and early October. Some people are OK with just a day or two in Hvar, but I love it there and could spend weeks. If you have a car to explore the island, spend at least four days.

If you go to Dubrovnik, again, it is better to not go in August.. though I have been in August and had a blast. Better to go in May, or late September/early October. Last year I was there in the end of October and the weather was insanely good so everything was still open. If you decide to go with a car, maybe stay outside the city in Lapad and take the bus into town. It would be a bit of a pain to have a car staying IN Dubrovnik, I reckon.

There is plenty to do between Hvar/Split/Dubrovnik and surrounds to keep you busy for two weeks. If you can spare more time, head on up to Istria for another week. Its a bit of a trek though and as far as I know there are no car ferries from Istria back to Italy.

If you do end up going to Hvar and/or Dubrovnik I can give you some food and wine tips, I have lots of favorite places.. and Andro, owner of the apartment is super, he knows everything and everyone. I can't imagine not going back to see him and his lovely mama and papa every year. Maybe if you go this September I try to meet you there

I think I might be needing your Dubrovnik food and wine tips as well

 

[caliroan]

If you go for a week, I'd skip the islands and focus on mainland central Dalmatia. It's a 9 or 10 hour ferry ride from Ancona, and a second multi-hour ferry ride to Hvar is a bit too much ferrying IMHO.
We have been to Croatia five times - usually in June - before things get too crowded. In 2016 we went to Istria in August in order to coordinate with extended family, and the crowds definitely impacted our enjoyment.

In central Dalmatia, Split is the main attraction and is definitely worth several days. Feels a bit like Split has gone overboard with the "Game of Thrones" stuff but the fanbase is rabid.

Heading north, Sibenik is on the quiet side but tourism is developing quickly and growing in importance. The revitalized Fortress of Saint Michael in Sibenik is really well done and offers wonderful panoramic views. (My wife's grandparents are buried in the cemetery at the bottom of this picture - sadly, so many tourists have been busted for climbing on and picnicking atop the tombs, they've closed the cemetery to the general public during June/July/August)

Zadar is very lively and offers a lot to see and do including those world-famous sunsets. The "Gold and Silver of Zadar" exhibit is quite interesting and I enjoyed the "Museum of Illusions" almost as much as my teenagers did last summer.

One option is to book a few days in Split and just ask the locals what they suggest in terms of what to do and where to go next. Croatians love to help visitors enjoy their amazing homeland.

Driving in Croatia is no more difficult than in Italy - signage is excellent and the "autocesta" superhighway is incredibly efficient.

 

[artnbarb]

Croatia isn't in the mix for this year, but hopefully for next year. I'd really, really, like to stay 2 weeks, but finances will dictate. If we stick to our usual routine, we'll be in Umbria for Aug/Sept/Oct, and would travel to Croatia in September. I'm excited to do more research! Thanks for all your responses and suggestions!

 

[Tony da Roma]

I would definitely do a Gulet if you can. It is an amazing experience and you are definitely not out of season. In fact, September/October is one of the largest sailing seasons of the year in Croatia due to the favorable coastal winds.

 

[artnbarb]

@Tony da Roma , you read my mind! Just yesterday I was wondering about this. My first two thoughts were a) it's too expensive, and b) it'll be too late in the season. Since you've told me about the timing, do you know anything about the cost? I've always wanted to take a gullet off the cost of Turkey, but this may be a better option.

 

[Tony da Roma]

Well, if you rent a skippered gullet on your own, yes it would be expensive! However, there are also organized sailings. Let's call them mini cruises. These are prearranged weeklong sailing excursions, where they fill each cabin individually - just like a cruise ship. This option is very affordable! They will do out and back itineraries from the same port and you will also find one-way itineraries leaving from port A and ending in port B.

The nice thing about these is that you are on a small ship versus a massive cruise line. You hit small ports versus major destinations (unless you are starting/ending in somewhere like Split or Dubrovnik). You can even stop in a nice secluded cove somewhere if people want to take a swim.

A potential downside is that most gulets have about 6-10 cabins. Some might even have less than that, while others might have upwards of 14-16 or so. In the event, that there is someone on board that is completely annoying or whatever, there is no escaping that person! You are in close quarters for the whole week.

If you end up going this route, share your potential itineraries with me. As you might recall, I lived in Zagreb for 6 years and I have traveled the coast extensively. I will be more than happy to share my feedback on the options you are considering.

 

[artnbarb]

Thank you @Tony da Roma ! As you may know, I'm always planning way in advance, and all of this is just an idea for 2020. If money were no object I'd already be committed, but I have some challenges with this trip - we'd need to visit Croatia in the MIDDLE of our time in Umbria, so we'll still be paying apartment rental in Umbria while we're also renting rooms in Croatia! And the ferry was a lot more expensive than I was expecting! I'm not much of a car person, but perhaps we'd be better to drive from Umbria to Croatia, and sort of hop-scotch our way down - and back up- the coastline? So much to figure out! I'll get back to you when I get serious about the research.

 

[Tony da Roma]

I am not sure what is expensive or not to you for the ferry. But I just did a quick search for the Jadrolinja overnight ferry from Ancona to Split. The cost for 2 adults in your own private cabin with an ensuite bathroom is 110 euros. The cost for a standard car is about 45 euros. So the total would be 155 euros. And if you purchase as a roundtrip ticket you will get a 20% discount on the return voyage.

Personally, I would rather do a 2 hour or so car ride to Ancona. Hop on board a ship in the evening. Rest & relax for the journey. Go have dinner. Sleep in a bed. Wake up in Split. Versus driving all day for about 11 - 12 hours in total, not counting stops. Plus, the cost of fuel and tolls on that journey will add up as well. Something to think about.

 

[artnbarb]

Weighing all my options, then trying to figure costs! Is gas cheaper in Croatia than it is in Italy? I know gas in Slovenia was quite a bit cheaper when we were there several years ago.

 

[Andrew]

It's interesting for me to follow this discussion as I look at how we will claim our contest prize of a stay in Hvar. We're looking at doing this after time in Umbria in April 2020. I'd been thinking of flying from Rome to Split, then the choice between an expensive motorboat taxi from near Split airport to Hvar, versus getting from the airport to Split harbor, then a ferry, not so frequent in April, and worrying about how well the ferry times would coordinate with the flight arrival. If this page from Croatia Ferries should reflect pretty well what the schedules will be next year, taking an overnight ferry from Ancona to Split, arriving in the morning when there should be a good selection of passenger ferries (catamarans) to Hvar, could be a better option.

 

[Shannon]

Andrew, if you decide to fly, there are a lot of ferries and also catamarans to Hvar from Split in April. Definitely do not do some expensive motorboat taxi - definitely not necessary. There are three or four car ferries to Stari Grad every day, and a couple of catamarans to Hvar Town. Locals use them, they are not just for tourists. Also there is an airport bus from Split airport to the ferry terminal area.

You could also consider an overnight in Split - it is an amazing city and there is a really nice place to stay close to the ferry terminal (and it is not expensive.) Then the following day take a catamaran to Hvar. My only suggestion is, do not book an early morning flight from Split and then depend on an early catamaran from Hvar to make it there, because in bad weather you could be screwed. Better to book a late flight (car ferries always run, even in "weather" ) or spend the night in Split if you have an early flight out.

(Sorry to hijack your thread Barb.)