jan
100+ Posts
Early May 2018
Day 1: The rain is pervasive in northwest Italy so we weren’t surprised by it in Torino. Grey and rainy—-that’s it. But I still felt excited coming to a big Italian city, rolling my luggage, finding the cabs. I love this stuff.
We checked into our new, very quirky apartment. (You can find it on airbnb: Torino Lovely attic in the centre. ) We have great views but it is built in a former attic space so the ceilings are slanted and even I have to duck to get to some things. It’s a little crazy but for 5 days we can live with it.
Luckily there are many places to walk near here (we are just off Piazza Castello) that are covered by porticos so we walked over to the Coop supermarket. This is an upscale Coop—like a Publix Greenways store or Whole Foods. And it is inside a beautiful galleria of shops. There were barely any other customers in there though.
Finally we found the Roman Quadrilateral area with narrow streets and lots of small shops. We got some breads and salumi and cheeses for picnic dinner in the apartment. Prosciutto di Bosses from Val d’Aosta was super sweet and delicious. We drank a Nebbiolo from La Morra which was fine for the picnic but not very special.
They are saying the rain will end on Saturday… or Sunday. Whatever, we’ll make the best of it.
Day 2: We got a slow start because of our leisurely mindset, also called laziness and because of our resistance to being out in the rain. But we got all geared up to go to the Porta Palazzo farmers market about a 10 minute walk from here. This place did not disappoint! It is the biggest farmers market I can ever remember going to. And not just in the sheer volume of stalls but how much each one has to sell. There were mounds and mounds of tomatoes, citrus, zucchini, potatoes etc. You can’t stop to take a photo because it is really crowded and busy and everyone who is not buying is moving right along. All of the fruit and veg stands were under rows of dripping tarps. Most of the shoppers have their own carello or at least a big reusable bag. Across the street was a whole section of sellers with household goods and clothing.
Inside two large buildings were meat, cheese and bread stalls. Each butcher has a huge inventory. How much can they sell here? We finally bought some breads and went back outside to get other
stuff. I wish I could have taken photos!
Walking home we decided to stop in at a church. There were a group of school kids going in too but they were well behaved and this church was pretty solemn. And this is what I really love about these big Italian cities. You just pop in somewhere and low and behold, it’s the duomo of Torino and right before our eyes is the shroud of Turin! Well, it’s not actually right before our eyes becasue they keep it under lock and key in a very special preservative environment but you can stare at the glass case in
amazement. I talked with one of the volunteers there. An older, super earnest gentleman expalined a lot to me aobut the history of the shroud. Even though it was all in Italian, I managed to get most of it and found the whole experience very moving. Yes, I know it’s not REALLY Jesus’ burial cloth. What moves me is the devotion and reverance around it.
Our afternoon walk was mostly window shopping out and back on arcaded, wide streets.
We had a dinner reservation at L’Acino. Small place (seats only 30) with a big reputation. The meal was good but not off the charts Piemontese cuisine like we had in the Langhe last time. We started with stuffed zucchini flowers with ricotta and mint and they were up to the hype. But the pasta dishes were not super. I had the traditional ravioli al plin and these were just lacking in flavor. Ken had tajarin with sausage ragu and it, too was just OK. For an entrée we shared pork cheeks braised in Barolo wine which were good and homey but still didn’t nail it. We also shared a great dessert—chocolate “bonet” like a pudding cake with a bit of caramel sauce and crumbled amaretti cookies. Our wines, by the glass were better than the food. For me a Barbaresco and for Ken, Barbera d’Asti.
Day 3: With the change in the weather and the beautiful blue skies we almost didn’t go to the National Cinema Museum but I really didn’t want to miss it so we seized the moment. And I’m
really glad we did! I booked the tickets on line in the early morning for an 11:00 entry. First thing, up the elevator to the top of the tower, the Mole. Great views over Torino even though it was a bit hazy.
The focus of the museum was music in film; they called the show “Sound Frames”. After exploring a whole floor of movie history we started on the ramp which winds around the building. They give you headphones which automatically tune into the screen you stand near. Scenes from Cabaret, Singin’ in the Rain, Jaws, Purple Rain, Schindler’s List and many more were really moving to see. After all that you can lie down on super comfortable, ergonomic lounge chairs and watch one of two large screens. The whole experience was unique and reminded me of the Worlds Fair of movies.
For dinner we wanted to shop over in the Quadrilatero area which required us to stroll with a huge passegiatta on (I think) via Garibaldi. Lots of people, young and old, out for a stroll. We ducked into the quarter with its medieval streets and found gastronomia La Spiga. We bought a mix of stuffed pasta, some sauce, a few meatballs and some cooked spinach. All we had to do was heat the stuff up. Oh, we also got a bottle of Langhe Nebbiolo and some cookies next door.
Came back here to read for a bit and enjoy our terrace with some wine. We could watch the performers in the Piazza Castello but being up in the 5th floor, we couldn’t hear them. The light was beautiful and we took photos of each other.
Sunday: No rain in the forecast so out we go. We set out a walk to the Po river, which winds kind of north and south through Torino, and back. So, of course, we walk on via Po! I stopped and bought some tiny hand crocheted shoes for baby Juna but mostly we did some “power walking” to the east. The bridge to go over to the park on the other side had a steady flow of people. Sunday in the city—everyone wants to get out in the green spaces. We stopped for a coffee on the other side. The barista’s boss asked us where we were from and then he said to the barista–“Here’s your chance to practice your American.” It was funny.
Leaving there we had a clear view of some snow covered mountains. We got out our city map to see if we could figure out what direction we were looking and a nice couple, from the bar, asked if we needed help. I told him we just wanted to know what we are seeing, north, south, east or west. He said: “Francia.” so clear. We are seeing the French alps to the west. We talked with them for a while and went on for the rest of our walk, north along the river and across the next bridge. The walkway (and this entire town, really) is well tagged with grafitti. We came through the gardens behind Piazza Castello and walked slowly through it. Kids playing in the fountains reminded me of Cascades park and home.
Lunch reservation at 1:00 didn’t give us any rest time. We changed our somewhat sweaty clothes and I took off my sneakers and walked, to the west, to Trattoria L’Oca Fola. There is goose paraphernalia everywhere.
They have a set menu for Sundays. Three appetizers: first was beef tartare. (I took a few bites but it’s just not me.) Then a swirl of soft cheese with mushrooms and truffels with some crostini. Heaven and earth in the mouth! The third app was my favorite dish of the meal: pumpkin flan (not sweet but with real pumpkin flavor) with a bright red, fresh tomato coulis on top. Oh my! What a delicious combination!
Then (I had already asked to bring me less food) asparagus risotto with al dente rice like you would never have in the states and cheesey sauce.
THEN! the traditional ravioli al plin in sugo arrosto. These are basically small meat stuffed pasta in meat gravy. These had a touch of nutmeg and wow! Pork filet with hazelnut sauce was likewise excellent. Desserts: Ken had panna cotta and I had bonét. We drank a local sparkling white with the meal. Really one of the best meals of our trip….so far.
We didn’t rush back and just strolled off the meal. Ken was way too full because he ate whatever I didn’t so that we got into the clean plate club.
Rest time, laundry, etc. We went out for an evening stroll. Lots of music in the streets including two older dancers with the crowd singing along to what may have been traditional music.
Monday: Ken’s been having phone issues so we looked up the Apple store. Turned out it is about 2 blocks from here but we had never noticed it before. So, we went for a pleasant visit where they didn’t fix his problem. Oh well. Next stop was to get a “bicerin”, a Turinese coffee which is thick hot chocolate, topped with espresso, topped with milk. At Mokita, they topped it with whipped cream which was a bit much for me but the bottom part was delish!
The Porta Palatine was our next stop. Beautiful ruins of the city gates from the first century. Then we strolled through town heading home. On the way back home we stopped at the gastronomia right near our apartment and got enough for lunch and dinner. We’re both feeling a little over fed and restauranted out. It’s interesting how different this city seems today, after the busy weekend. Today we see mostly well dressed business men walking the streets—no throngs of tourists at all.
It rained, pretty hard, all afternoon so we did a lot of nothing. Talked to our kids on Face Time and I read a cool piece an old friend from Montecito, California sent me which he wrote about the harrowing fire/mud slide experience.
We went out again after dark to see the beautiful Piazza Castello and the lit fountains. Ken remarked how much he likes it here.
Me too!
Day 1: The rain is pervasive in northwest Italy so we weren’t surprised by it in Torino. Grey and rainy—-that’s it. But I still felt excited coming to a big Italian city, rolling my luggage, finding the cabs. I love this stuff.
We checked into our new, very quirky apartment. (You can find it on airbnb: Torino Lovely attic in the centre. ) We have great views but it is built in a former attic space so the ceilings are slanted and even I have to duck to get to some things. It’s a little crazy but for 5 days we can live with it.
Luckily there are many places to walk near here (we are just off Piazza Castello) that are covered by porticos so we walked over to the Coop supermarket. This is an upscale Coop—like a Publix Greenways store or Whole Foods. And it is inside a beautiful galleria of shops. There were barely any other customers in there though.
Finally we found the Roman Quadrilateral area with narrow streets and lots of small shops. We got some breads and salumi and cheeses for picnic dinner in the apartment. Prosciutto di Bosses from Val d’Aosta was super sweet and delicious. We drank a Nebbiolo from La Morra which was fine for the picnic but not very special.
They are saying the rain will end on Saturday… or Sunday. Whatever, we’ll make the best of it.
Day 2: We got a slow start because of our leisurely mindset, also called laziness and because of our resistance to being out in the rain. But we got all geared up to go to the Porta Palazzo farmers market about a 10 minute walk from here. This place did not disappoint! It is the biggest farmers market I can ever remember going to. And not just in the sheer volume of stalls but how much each one has to sell. There were mounds and mounds of tomatoes, citrus, zucchini, potatoes etc. You can’t stop to take a photo because it is really crowded and busy and everyone who is not buying is moving right along. All of the fruit and veg stands were under rows of dripping tarps. Most of the shoppers have their own carello or at least a big reusable bag. Across the street was a whole section of sellers with household goods and clothing.
Inside two large buildings were meat, cheese and bread stalls. Each butcher has a huge inventory. How much can they sell here? We finally bought some breads and went back outside to get other
stuff. I wish I could have taken photos!
Walking home we decided to stop in at a church. There were a group of school kids going in too but they were well behaved and this church was pretty solemn. And this is what I really love about these big Italian cities. You just pop in somewhere and low and behold, it’s the duomo of Torino and right before our eyes is the shroud of Turin! Well, it’s not actually right before our eyes becasue they keep it under lock and key in a very special preservative environment but you can stare at the glass case in
amazement. I talked with one of the volunteers there. An older, super earnest gentleman expalined a lot to me aobut the history of the shroud. Even though it was all in Italian, I managed to get most of it and found the whole experience very moving. Yes, I know it’s not REALLY Jesus’ burial cloth. What moves me is the devotion and reverance around it.
Our afternoon walk was mostly window shopping out and back on arcaded, wide streets.
We had a dinner reservation at L’Acino. Small place (seats only 30) with a big reputation. The meal was good but not off the charts Piemontese cuisine like we had in the Langhe last time. We started with stuffed zucchini flowers with ricotta and mint and they were up to the hype. But the pasta dishes were not super. I had the traditional ravioli al plin and these were just lacking in flavor. Ken had tajarin with sausage ragu and it, too was just OK. For an entrée we shared pork cheeks braised in Barolo wine which were good and homey but still didn’t nail it. We also shared a great dessert—chocolate “bonet” like a pudding cake with a bit of caramel sauce and crumbled amaretti cookies. Our wines, by the glass were better than the food. For me a Barbaresco and for Ken, Barbera d’Asti.
Day 3: With the change in the weather and the beautiful blue skies we almost didn’t go to the National Cinema Museum but I really didn’t want to miss it so we seized the moment. And I’m
really glad we did! I booked the tickets on line in the early morning for an 11:00 entry. First thing, up the elevator to the top of the tower, the Mole. Great views over Torino even though it was a bit hazy.
The focus of the museum was music in film; they called the show “Sound Frames”. After exploring a whole floor of movie history we started on the ramp which winds around the building. They give you headphones which automatically tune into the screen you stand near. Scenes from Cabaret, Singin’ in the Rain, Jaws, Purple Rain, Schindler’s List and many more were really moving to see. After all that you can lie down on super comfortable, ergonomic lounge chairs and watch one of two large screens. The whole experience was unique and reminded me of the Worlds Fair of movies.
For dinner we wanted to shop over in the Quadrilatero area which required us to stroll with a huge passegiatta on (I think) via Garibaldi. Lots of people, young and old, out for a stroll. We ducked into the quarter with its medieval streets and found gastronomia La Spiga. We bought a mix of stuffed pasta, some sauce, a few meatballs and some cooked spinach. All we had to do was heat the stuff up. Oh, we also got a bottle of Langhe Nebbiolo and some cookies next door.
Came back here to read for a bit and enjoy our terrace with some wine. We could watch the performers in the Piazza Castello but being up in the 5th floor, we couldn’t hear them. The light was beautiful and we took photos of each other.
Sunday: No rain in the forecast so out we go. We set out a walk to the Po river, which winds kind of north and south through Torino, and back. So, of course, we walk on via Po! I stopped and bought some tiny hand crocheted shoes for baby Juna but mostly we did some “power walking” to the east. The bridge to go over to the park on the other side had a steady flow of people. Sunday in the city—everyone wants to get out in the green spaces. We stopped for a coffee on the other side. The barista’s boss asked us where we were from and then he said to the barista–“Here’s your chance to practice your American.” It was funny.
Leaving there we had a clear view of some snow covered mountains. We got out our city map to see if we could figure out what direction we were looking and a nice couple, from the bar, asked if we needed help. I told him we just wanted to know what we are seeing, north, south, east or west. He said: “Francia.” so clear. We are seeing the French alps to the west. We talked with them for a while and went on for the rest of our walk, north along the river and across the next bridge. The walkway (and this entire town, really) is well tagged with grafitti. We came through the gardens behind Piazza Castello and walked slowly through it. Kids playing in the fountains reminded me of Cascades park and home.
Lunch reservation at 1:00 didn’t give us any rest time. We changed our somewhat sweaty clothes and I took off my sneakers and walked, to the west, to Trattoria L’Oca Fola. There is goose paraphernalia everywhere.
They have a set menu for Sundays. Three appetizers: first was beef tartare. (I took a few bites but it’s just not me.) Then a swirl of soft cheese with mushrooms and truffels with some crostini. Heaven and earth in the mouth! The third app was my favorite dish of the meal: pumpkin flan (not sweet but with real pumpkin flavor) with a bright red, fresh tomato coulis on top. Oh my! What a delicious combination!
Then (I had already asked to bring me less food) asparagus risotto with al dente rice like you would never have in the states and cheesey sauce.
THEN! the traditional ravioli al plin in sugo arrosto. These are basically small meat stuffed pasta in meat gravy. These had a touch of nutmeg and wow! Pork filet with hazelnut sauce was likewise excellent. Desserts: Ken had panna cotta and I had bonét. We drank a local sparkling white with the meal. Really one of the best meals of our trip….so far.
We didn’t rush back and just strolled off the meal. Ken was way too full because he ate whatever I didn’t so that we got into the clean plate club.
Rest time, laundry, etc. We went out for an evening stroll. Lots of music in the streets including two older dancers with the crowd singing along to what may have been traditional music.
Monday: Ken’s been having phone issues so we looked up the Apple store. Turned out it is about 2 blocks from here but we had never noticed it before. So, we went for a pleasant visit where they didn’t fix his problem. Oh well. Next stop was to get a “bicerin”, a Turinese coffee which is thick hot chocolate, topped with espresso, topped with milk. At Mokita, they topped it with whipped cream which was a bit much for me but the bottom part was delish!
The Porta Palatine was our next stop. Beautiful ruins of the city gates from the first century. Then we strolled through town heading home. On the way back home we stopped at the gastronomia right near our apartment and got enough for lunch and dinner. We’re both feeling a little over fed and restauranted out. It’s interesting how different this city seems today, after the busy weekend. Today we see mostly well dressed business men walking the streets—no throngs of tourists at all.
It rained, pretty hard, all afternoon so we did a lot of nothing. Talked to our kids on Face Time and I read a cool piece an old friend from Montecito, California sent me which he wrote about the harrowing fire/mud slide experience.
We went out again after dark to see the beautiful Piazza Castello and the lit fountains. Ken remarked how much he likes it here.
Me too!
Last edited: