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From The New York Times: 36 hours in Bucharest

When was the last time you were there, Doru? I went last year and I was pretty blown away by the changes since my first visit in 2013. There are wine bars now - quite a few - and more farm to table kinds of places to eat. This was my favorite wine bar - Abel's
Not sure why they call it Abel's, the guy that runs the place is from Puglia I think.
 
When was the last time you were there, Doru? I went last year and I was pretty blown away by the changes since my first visit in 2013.

Hey, Shannon, such a long time!!

We were there last in 2015 and enjoyed every moment. Unfortunately, we had to call off the 2017 after I fell and had a (non-displaced) pelvis fracture, with the inevitable long rehab. I can happily say that I was very diligent and I have recovered fully but then Josette had some problems related to mobility, now mostly addressed. Following all this, we decided that at our age the risks and demands of travel outweigh the joys of travel and from Slow Travellers we transited to Slower Non-Travellers...

Did you publish or post anything about your trip?

A friend who returned recently from two weeks in Bucharest and countryside confirms the robust night life in the Old Centre and the increasing gap between the younger and older generations. When I reflect on "my times", we had the same disconnect from our elders. Nothing new under the sun...
 
The wines "progress" from artisanal producers to big international corporations producers. Not always a good thing, but at least they have a consistent product and better access to the world markets.

Did you consider Albania? It must be the next one; the hiking is phenomenal!
 
There are many (google: hiking in the Albanian mountains, or hiking in Albania, or hiking in the Albanian Alps). One of them is here. And here.

You may also find vestiges of the Italian Protectorate during WW II, and of Italian fascist attempts to colonise the country. There is also a Roma presence, in dwindling numbers, and with unique traditions. I don't know how much of those have survived modernisation.

A most interesting country!
 
Thank you, Shannon. Alas, my wine intake, Romanian or otherwise, has gone somewhat down in the past year or so. I still have a very nice collection, wines (Romanian or others) and grappas and I contemplate going through them leisurely for the foreseeable future. If you will be sometime in Toronto, you are invited to multiple tastings; it is too melancholy to drink by myself and, as you may remember, Josette "don't drink none" of those.

Romanian wine makers keep discovering new areas with potential. This weekend I will get here a wine I hear of for the first time, from the southernmost Trajan Valley, a Cabernet Sauvignon with one of those non-intelligible long names Romanians seem to like labeling their wines with: "Bostavan Dor Rara Neagra" (I don't even bother with the diacritics...). Not one of the traditional vine-making areas. I'll get a few bottles, as I am curious about it.
 
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This is quite a complete proposal for 36 hours in Bucharest.
Hi Doru,
Hopefully somewhere in your Slow Travel memory bank, you remember me. I was a very active member as were you.

I just had to contact you as we connect again. We are going to be in Bucharest for several days before starting a cruise between there are Budapest. After a lot of research, we found the tour person we wanted to help us explore what little we can in 4 days…Bucharest and up to Sibiu. Imagine my great surprise when I saw in the side bar that you contribute to Cristina's fantastic, informative site. I’m pretty sure you had something to do with all the wonderful links and writing. She and I are in communication. I immediately knew she was the one we wanted even before I realized your involvement. This is exciting.

Ken, my husband, was there in 1990 taking supplies to orphanages and schools. He was in University Square the raucous night before the elections. (I was home watching on TV and worried about him.) He traveled into several areas while there. He is really looking forward to seeing it now. It will definitely be a very different place and experience.

So just had to write you. How are you? Are you still traveling? I just saw your report on Slow Europe when tou had a long stay there in 2017-right?

If you have suggestions for us, I would love to have you share them. We are with Cristina for a Bucharest tour and a two night, 3 day tour. I explained to her that we are "older" travelers and like slower pace rather than quick run throughs. She has suggested several ways to tweak her regular itinerary including dropping Bran Castle and a couple other places which is fine with us.

Well, this is exciting, isn’t it?
Jane Parker
 
Hi, Jane! Time flies indeed!

Of course I remember you, and talk about a coincidence, to connect with my much younger friend and ultimate Bucharest and Romania connaiseur, Cristina. Uncanny!

Jane, this is just a quick note, because I am not home right now. Ta ta, and back within 24 hours with a more detailed reply. BTW, what time of year is your trip?
 
Hi Doru,
So super pleased you remember our ST days. We will be there May 8 - 14 but we connect with Viking late on the 13th. I look forward to hearing from you and can’t wait to tell Cristina our connection.
 
OK, here I am, back home!

You know, Jane, like many of our "leaders", I could choose to recuse myself:( when it comes to the Bucharest Uncovered website, not to be accused of conflict of interest!

But you will be in good and highly qualified hands and May is an absolutely wonderful time of the year to be in Bucharest, in fact anywhere in Romania.

For a concentrated taste of what Romania has to offer, the four days will cover the essence and will, hopefully tempt you to return some other time, for a longer period.

My trip report covers the 2009 trip, a return to the country after 48 years. We went again in 2013 and 2015 (2011 was cancelled for health reasons), in these cases dedicating most of the time to our birth city and to the George Enescu classical music festival. What I posted about those trips is lost, together with the Slowtrav site, but in both these cases we stayed the entire three week periods in Bucharest and were totally immersed in the musical festival... I am sure your trip will include places such as the Peleş (ş is pron. sh) Castle in Sinaia, and selected places in the city of Braşov, and maybe Sighişoara...

I don't know how much time you will have for Bucharest, but if you have the time and are interested in an art museum and you can visit only one, I would choose the Muzeul Colectiilor de Arta (The Museum of Art Collections).

With this, I will leave the field free to your guide.

As to us, we both have had some setbacks, mostly affecting mobility, which caused us to reassess our priorities. With heavy hearts, we decided that long intercontinental flights, and hours spent in airports, and flight connections, and climbing in planes from the tarmac on those never-ending stairs, and the minutiae required for a successful trip, have become too much for us.

Jane, if you and Ken have any questions, at any time, please just ask; I will reply the best I know how.

Hugs from Toronto,
Doru
 
Hi Doru,
I know we met in person at some function years ago but went to sleep last night trying to figure what or where. Came up with nada. Do you have any recall?
I understand what you and Josette are facing as Ken and I are, too. Growing old really puts a kink in things, doesn't it? We had to cancel a thoroughly planned 5 week trip to Italy in 2015 because of Ken's surgery and health. This upcoming trip will be his first big time out since then. We did go for a weekend in Toronto visiting friends there but I totally neglected to remember that is where you are also. We could have had a GTG as the two other couples were ST people too. I did go to Italy in 2016 with ST girl friends.
We are excited about our trip on the Danube, particularly Bucharest. We did have several days in Budapest probably about 1992 or 3 or so. Right after all the curtains fell. We wanted to see the eastern bloc countries before they westernized...Poland, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Hungary but missed Romania.
I was emailing Cristina today and told her of our connection. I am sure we will talk about you more while we are with her. I will paste her suggestions for revising her 3 day tour. The did it because we thought we might want to stay in Sighisoara but after rereading her published tour and the revised one, we think maybe her original one is best in terms of where to spend the nights. We do want to follow some of her advice about eliminating some things. Our stamina isn't what it was. Actually, if it were, we wouldn't even use a guided tour but go on our own. I do think though that Cristina and her knowledge will be well worth the expense. If you have the time or inclination, I would love to hear your thoughts.
Should we take our communication off the board and into private conversation?

CRISTINA'S IDEAS
It would be wonderful if you could take the 3-day tour in Transylvania. It is surely possible to change the plan and stay overnight in Sighisoara (instead of Brasov). In this case we drive more on the first day and arrive in the evening in Sighisoara (around 7:30 PM), and skip Rupea Citadel. Instead, the next day we travel from Sighisoara to Sibiu through the Saxon Villages and you can take in the rural countryside and see a couple of the most beautiful Fortified Churches.

I suggest it would be OK to skip Bran Castle on the first day, if this is not a must for you. Bran Castle is certainly interesting, a well preserved 14th century citadel, but a very crowded attraction in the summer with busy road traffic in the area, and visiting it involves climbing quite cramped and steep flights of stairs.
If we skip Bran Castle the day will be less wearying, we save about 1 hour driving time and could enjoy the extra time in Brasov, which is a lovely city, plus we arrive earlier in Sighisoara where again you will like leisure time in the evening.

It is good to make the hotel reservations in Sighisoara and Sibiu as soon as possible after you clear up your flight arrangements. When you know the exact dates I can look up to see what hotels are available in both cities. I can make also the hotel reservations for you, and you may pay directly at the hotel, at check-in.

Regarding the Bucharest tour: I knew that description of the city tour given by Viking, which is quite vague. From what I know, you will be given a sightseeing tour in the morning, with a stop in front of the Palace of Parliament (I don't think there are other stops) then you will have lunch with folkloric show to a restaurant (nice place) followed by visit of open-air Village Museum. After the Village Museum, from what I know, you are given optional alternatives -either inside visit of the Palace of Parliament, or a walking tour around the Old Town.

The Palace of Parliament is unique and very interesting to visit, just be aware that the visit takes about 1h15 min and that it involves climbing quite many steps (no elevators). If you decide to visit it, the best is to go with your Viking group. (but ask them if the inside visit of the Palace of Parliament is included, it is good to know!)

For our tour, I think it is good to stop in some important places where your Viking tour won't stop (such as the Palace Square - Revolution Square area, and the University Square area, where major landmarks are located and essential events happened - see the buildings and places up close), have a stroll and lunch to a fine restaurant in the Old Town (better to visit the Old Town with me, than with a group), take you a little off beaten path to one of Bucharest's quaint old neighborhoods (beautiful architecture Bucharest is known for and also get a better feeling of Bucharest's contrasting faces), and end up with a visit of Ceausescu's Palace (the late communist president private residence).

The Bucharest tour will take about 7 hrs and the price is 120 EUR, exclusive of the cost of admission tickets, where apply (Ceausescu's Palace).
 
Hello, Andrew! Josette and I were talking only yesterday about you (only good things!) and the rides you so kindly gave us in San Diego.

Yes, Pauline has already helped me to move over ALL my trip reports.

What I meant to say was that during the two last trips to Bucharest, 2013 and 2015, I used the posting in the forum as a vehicle and I did not assemble them in a trip report format. So I think they would be irretrivably gone now. And, even if I could access them now, I doubt that I would have the patience to do it...
 

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