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Going to Montepulciano - need advice on buses

Peg A

10+ Posts
It’s time for me to give up and ask for help! Has anyone had any experience with bus travel to Montepulciano? We don’t want to rent a car this trip so we had planned to try a bus instead of driving.

My question is about whether to buy bus tickets in advance. When I looked for schedules on the Tiemme site (http://www.tiemmespa.it), I was surprised to see that you could buy tickets online. Is that really necessary? We don’t want to risk missing a bus because it’s full (especially during Saturday travel). But given my poor understanding of busses and even poorer understanding of the Italian language, I’m not even sure that buying a ticket in advance would confirm space on a bus.

I would really appreciate any advice you can give me.

Thanks,
Peg
 
Hi Peg
I'm not sure where you are travelling from, but we've caught the bus from Chianciamo Terme to Montepulciano, which were fine bought on the day (IIRC from the tabaccheria at the train station, but it might have been on the bus itself).
We also took the bus from Montepulciano to Siena, again fine on the day.

The locals tended to refer to the longer distance 'coach' buses as 'Pullman', using 'Autobus' only for smaller buses, though in Colle Val d'Elsa the shuttle bus was called (IIRC) a 'Navetta'.

I'm not sure a ticket bought in advance would guarantee a seat.

Regards
Ian
 
Hi Ian,
Our trains are to and from Chiusi Chianciamo Terme so that sounds like it will work. (Sorry I left out that information.) I saw your name on the response and knew from previous posts that I would get good information. I appreciate your detailed description of what to expect. We'll just wait and buy our tickets there.

If I may, I have one more question. We stay in the Politician apartments near the top of the hill in Montepulciano and I understand that the Autobus station is at the bottom. I think I read somewhere that it was possible to get off the bus at a point nearer the top. Do you recall whether that is the case?

Thanks again,

Peg
 
Hi Peg
Well I have the advantage of having done exactly that same journey, to exactly the same apartments!

The bus, when we caught it it just under a decade ago, went from stops just outside the station to your left as you exit, just past the taxi rank. If you can see a lone lady in a light coloured jacket & shoulder bag just before the two bus shelters in this google streetview - where she is standing is just where the bus left from https://goo.gl/maps/hprtM9ipGvJ2

I smiled when you said could you *get off before the autobus station (but only because the brains of the operation is out of sight of this message!). We did just that, with full length rucksacks of ~ 14kg each. Yes the walk is shorter, but it's very steep, and with the weight of the rucksacks.... let's just say I wasn't popular! So unless you really don't mind climbing short(ish) but very steep hills, or have very light bags, I'd lean towards staying on the bus to the Autostazione. There is a shuttle bus service up to near Politian apartments (not sure of timings), or you could try the taxi number listed below (we never used it, but had it just in case). The walk would be about 30-40 mins, very much uphill, but much more gentle, and gets you a good sight of Montepulciano. There's always the option of stopping at Caffè Poliziano en-route if the walk appeals. Alternatively a taxi from the train station shouldn't be excessive, and Emanuele did come recommended by Giacomo.

* From memory, the 'pullman' came in via the SP146 before turning right onto the via della circonvallazione Vincenzo Cozzani, which skirts the slopes of the hill (and allows you some confidence this is where Montepulciano is). It follows the adge of the slope round towards the bus station.

The Politian apartment we stayed in was excellent (as I suspect they all are), old-world class/elegance yet also comfortable as a glove. All the fittings you'd need (and considerately, some appliances more familiar to US/English than Italian). The one exception is no TV. Whilst I did miss out on my favourite evening Italian TV institution" L'eredita", I fully support owner Giacomo's argument that he is embarrassed by Italian TV and so doesn't want to share that embarrassment with his guests. Instead there is a music system (with radio and CDs IIRC). He's a lovely and interesting person, who does very much enjoy nature. We only really chatted when we left, which was a shame, as he was someone I found very interesting to listen to / talk with.

Here are my crib notes from back then (with comments listed in green from our experience). The two places with a star against them impressed us, though they are somewhat different to each other. If visiting wineries, then plenty have drop in tasting rooms / impromptu cellar visits, and it's certainly worth looking around at least one cellar for the enormous old barrels, now mostly of decorative use. Crociani impressed us, with fine value and very hard-working yet hospitable ladies working there, and the wines are very good examples of the region. If you make it out towards Stazione Montepulciano, then Daviddi were the under the radar family run gem we found (they're at the back of Poliziano). Other producers such as Dei, Avignonesi, Boscarelli worth a taste if you see, them, but plenty of good wines there, in a slightly lean 'bony' style that I prefer to the more luscious/oaky Brunello from nearby. Contucci also worth a mention - oldest of them all and fiercely traditional / focused on selling direct and engaging directly with their customers by doing so.

Local taxi: Emanuele Torelli (0)335 6177126 info@tuscanytransfer.it
Tourist office – Piazza Don Minzoni mon-sat &
strada del vino – Piazza Grande 7 mon-fri (closed Nov-Mar)


tra in bus to Siena

A Gambe di Gatto - Via dell'Opio nel Corso, 34, Phone: 0578.757431 (good food) wed
Ai Quattro Venti - Piazza Grande, Phone: 0578.717231
Borgo Buio [O1] - Via Borgo Buio 10, Phone: 0578 717497 mon
*La Grotta [O2] - Localita' San Biagio, 15, Phone: 0578 757607 wed
Osteria dell’Acquacheta - Via del Teatro 22, Phone: 0578.75.84.43 wed-mon
* Osteria del Conte [O3] - Via San Donato, 19, Phone: 0578.766.062 wed
Ristorante Le Logge del Vignola - via delle Erbe, 6, Phone: 0578.717290
Cafe Poliziano [O4] – via di Voltaia nel Corso 27
Trattoria Diva e Maceo - Via di Gracciano nel Corso, 90/92, Phone: 0578.716.951 tue
Caseficio Silvana Cugusi, via della boccia 8 (cheeses incl. Pecorino)


[O1]Very odd place, which might appeal or horrify. The owner is an amateur opera singer who loves to serenade his guests, and it rather takes over the evening. The food was a bit hit and miss, so recommended only if a slightly surreal experience appeals

[O2]Despite facing a tourist attraction (San Biagio) this didn’t feel touristy and was indeed surprisingly classy in both food and service. We would return here. The walk back into Montepulciano is long straight (and of course uphill), but at least you can see the end-point, and it rather does 'walk off' a healthy lunch!

[O3]Really understated, but good food/ambience that makes you feel a little untouristy. We liked it here, but it’s more casual than fancy. We would return here

[O4]A mixed experience. Their breakfasts weren’t too impressive (but then the Italians are pretty inept at breakfast!) and the décor was tired in places. However head there in the afternoon or after lunch for a coffee / tea (or something alcoholic) and a plate of their excellent mignon cakes/biscuits which they excelled with.

Regards
Ian
 
Last edited:
Hi Ian,
Wow! Thank you doesn’t do it.

I’m glad I asked you about the alternate bus stop. We travel light (carry-ons only) but those steep hillside stairs would do us in. We will just take the little local bus up the hill once we get into the town. Thanks for the warning. I also appreciate that link to the google map – even I can’t get lost now.

Actually, we have been to Montepulciano before, but your information added to what we thought we knew and, just as important, boosted our excitement. Our first trips to Italy (post 1960s honeymoon) were all in the very early 2000s and we were lucky enough to find the Politian and that beautiful view. Back then, the gardens were a place to hang the wash. This time we’ll be in the back of the building and I’m looking forward to enjoying the new gardens.

Your crib notes are invaluable, especially your comments on the wineries. We have been to a few of the restaurants you mentioned and will return to Davi e Maceo for their osso buco and Aquachetta for fun. We have not been to La Grotta but your comments make us want to go this time. I am thinking that five days will not be nearly enough!

Peg
 
Ian, you refer to "the bus from Chianciamo Terme to Montepulciano," but then also to buying tickets at the train station, so I don't know if you mean the Chiusi-Chianciano Terme station, which is named after two towns but, if you look at a map, is more in Chiusi than Chianciano T. Especially for someone going to the station, getting off at the latter would not be advisable.
 
Hi Andrew
Yes that's a typo I always seem to make.

And I was indeed referring to the bus from Chiusi-Chianciano Terme train station to Montepulciano

Regards
Ian

Hi Peg
I reckon 5 days is fine. The apartment gives flexibility, but it's not the greatest town for gastronomie and other food specialists, so I'd be leaning towards one good meal each day and then either having an enoteca light meal / panino in a bar / moveable picnic back at the apartment for the other meal.

There is a decent sized supermarket (CONAD from memory) a short walk up the hill from the bus station in Montepulciano, which might make a handy detour on arrival to grab some food for breakfast. We didn't explore the other shops around this area much, so I may have missed some gems, though nothing else I can see in the Golosario apart from Lo Sfizio (via dell'Opio nel corso 29) for local cured meats and cheese, but also looks interesting for a world-selection of spices - sounds interesting.

Regards
Ian
 
Hi Ian,
That sounds like the perfect plan.

I would make one change though. Good healthy breakfasts are for home. In Italy we go for espresso and a dolce at the local bar.

Thanks for all your help.
Best,
Peg
 
Hi Ian,
That sounds like the perfect plan.

I would make one change though. Good healthy breakfasts are for home. In Italy we go for espresso and a dolce at the local bar.

Thanks for all your help.
Best,
Peg

Hi Peg
:) Good on you! I certainly respect the 'when in Rome' attitude.

Actually we sometimes cheat, by grabbing some fruit, yoghurt, plus perhaps a little cheese / salami and a mokapot coffee at the apartment when we wake... then topping up with coffee and a pastry in a bar around 11am. It seems to work well for us at easing the effect of tired limbs later in the day.

Regards
Ian
 
Hi Ian,
We’re back from Italy and I wanted to thank you again for your help with directions for the bus to Montepulciano. It was as easy as you said it would be! We did try the bus stop at the top of the hill for our return, though. There’s a small (steep) lane that avoids the steps and isn’t too difficult for the downhill run.

The town hasn’t changed much since we were last there. Giacomo’s garden at the Politian Apartments keeps getting better and the restaurant scene is a little different. One of our favorites, Davi and Maceo, has gone out of business so Bill never got his osso bucco.

A good restaurant to add to your list would be Roso Rubino. Everyone we met recommended it and we could see why. The address is Via dell'Opio Nel Corso, 34, phone 39 0578 716373. Reservations are a must!

Thanks again.
Peg
 
Thanks for the recommendation Peg - I think this is the location of what used to be 'a gambe di gatto', so it sounds like a positive change of ownership. Did you have a look in Lo Sfizio (via dell'Opio nel corso 29), presumably nearby on the other side of the road? It sounded quite interesting as a deli, plus spice speecialist.
 
Hi Ian,
We didn't get a chance - it was one of many interesting spots we missed. By the time we reached Montepulciano we were ready for an aimless rest! It was the perfect wind down.
Maybe next time?
Peg
 
So nice to read this post about going to Montepulciano, specifically staying at Politian apartments. I'll be on my way there for the 4th time (3rd time staying at Politian apartments ) in September and I cant wait! Glad to read about another way to reach the apartments from the train station, although I must confess I'm very spoiled (and admit to carrying too much luggage) , so I always take a car transfer , either Emmanuele (mentioned above) , or Enrico Carbonne. I believe they charge 50 euros for the 30 mins ride, which for me its worth every penny!
Peg, which apartment did you stay in?
 
So nice to read this post about going to Montepulciano, specifically staying at Politian apartments. I'll be on my way there for the 4th time (3rd time staying at Politian apartments ) in September and I cant wait! Glad to read about another way to reach the apartments from the train station, although I must confess I'm very spoiled (and admit to carrying too much luggage) , so I always take a car transfer , either Emmanuele (mentioned above) , or Enrico Carbonne. I believe they charge 50 euros for the 30 mins ride, which for me its worth every penny!
Peg, which apartment did you stay in?

Hi Maria,
Lucky you. I’m ready to go back. We've stayed at the Politian multiple times too. This time we were in the Green Tea. It was spacious and had a “private” garden overlooking the lower gardens. I never noticed the gate so it remained open, but no one ever bothered us there. We had always stayed in the Black Tea in the past. Loved the view but we’re getting a little old for the steps – had to save ourselves for the town’s hills. Which apartment are you renting?

Giacomo told us that his sister, Maria, bought a car to do transfers between the Politian and Chiusi. She only charges 30 euro. However, the car seems small so, if you decide to use her, be sure to ask about luggage space. We travel light (a carry on and a personal bag each). This was our longest trip (six weeks) so we tried to rent apartments with washers and we wore the same things – a lot! It was worth it when we considered lugging cases on and off trains. On the other hand, I see people with "too much" luggage and sometimes think it would be nice to have more to wear -:)
 
Hi Peg!

Thank you for letting me know about Maria doing car trips from the station, seems as a smart thing to do. Thought I was going to stay at Green Tea this time (which I've stayed in). but it looks like it'll be at Red Tea, which is on the same floor as Green, and Ive stayed at also, and liked!

Montepulciano is such a special place, I cant wait to get there!
 
Hi Peg!

Thank you for letting me know about Maria doing car trips from the station, seems as a smart thing to do. Thought I was going to stay at Green Tea this time (which I've stayed in). but it looks like it'll be at Red Tea, which is on the same floor as Green, and Ive stayed at also, and liked!

Montepulciano is such a special place, I cant wait to get there!
 
Maria, Can you tell me if you thought the bed in the Green Tea apt at the Politian was comfortable? Thank you.
 
Hi Maria,
Lucky you. We are beginning to think we may be getting a little old for the Montepulciano hills, but I can't imagine going to Italy and not staying there. You are right - it is a special place. Have a wonderful trip.
 
Maria, Can you tell me if you thought the bed in the Green Tea apt at the Politian was comfortable? Thank you.
Hi,
We stayed in Green Tea last spring and both beds were comfortable. I'm sure Maria would agree that any bed at the Politician would be comfortable.
 

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