Hidden treasures in/near Paris

[Anne]

I mentioned in another thread that my daughter and I are going to Paris in Sept. We'll have 10 days (not counting our travel days.) She's interested in the non-touristy side of Paris, lingering in cafes and wine bars, catching a glimpse of what it might feel like to live there. (Insofar as a tourist can, of course.)

Her only "must see" is the Eiffel Tower. Museums and churches aren't her thing, although I suspect she'll enjoy the d'Orsay. She's bookmarking things like the huge flea market (Les Puces?), l'Aligre market, and Buttes-Chaumont Park (specifically the old train bridge, and the temple of the Sybil although she knows she probably can't get to the top due to her knees). And we'll explore some of the Passages Couverts (thanks to @Cameron )

I've only been to Paris once for a week, so am not at all familiar with its hidden treasures. Does anyone have any off the beaten path/local favourites you'd like to share? (Could be in Paris, or nearby if accessible by public transportation.)

 

[SMJ]

The Basilica of Saint Denis is interesting; there's a Metro to quite nearby, and it's a flat walk to the Basilica.
There is a good café on the square in front of the Basilica, where you can have a drink and take in the vastness of it.
Not many tourists in that part of town.
I have bad knees too.
I don't know your daughter's "knee history", but I take long-acting Ibuprofen, and Tylenol, together; about an hour before going out when I'm out and about in European cities, and that helps a lot.
Perhaps some knee support sleeves too.
I'm always exhausted at the end of the day; but the good thing about Paris is that there is always a café or a bench nearby!
Go up the Montparnasse Tower, and you see the entirety of Paris including the Eiffel Tower, from the 56th floor, I believe it is.
There's a small café at the top.
The desk staff at the bottom will phone up to the top to check visibility for you before you buy your ticket, in case it's cloudy!
Elevator nearly all the way, then about 15 or so steps to the outdoor observation deck.

 

[Anne]

Moira's knees don't severely limit her mobility, thankfully. Our house is 2 story, so she's used to going up and down a few (carpeted) stairs daily. But climbing a lot of stone stairs and/or hills every day would be too much. As long as we're mindful to take lots of sitting breaks, she should be fine. Thanks for the reminder to bring some otc pain meds though...adding that to my packing list now.

The Basilica of Saint Denis sounds like our perfect set up - she can park herself in the café while I go in and check out the basilica! I'd forgotten about Montparnasse Tower, definitely want to check out that view.

 

[chachalaca]

Skip the big famous flea market as it is very professional and intimidating (formal tents that lock up, a shopkeeper waiting for Martha Stewart or another big spender to show up - not me, who wants to score an inexpensive tiny treasure I can carry on the plane) for someone who just wants to mill around and look. Instead hit the Puces de Vanves. It's casual, welcoming-people with tables set up along the street- and there's a market nearby.

Something we never skip is a Sunday picnic in Les Jardins du Luxembourg. You can people watch for hours! Pack a bottle of wine and some picnic supplies and enjoy! Sundays most parisian families are here too.

The winebar Le Garde Robe winebar is also untouristy.

For the first time ever we visited the Parc Des Buttes Chaumont and it was amazing! Out of the way, this is an old quarry that was turned into a park about 100 years ago. There are stalactites, stalagmites, a cave, a lake, a water fall, a lookout (from where you can see Sacre Coeur), pony rides and a pretty nice restaurant for lunch.

The Marmottan Museum is great! It's out in a neighborhood and has quite the collection of Monet paintings. And the Rodin Museum is also great.

Get metro "carnets" and take the metro when possible (however your daughter's knee might not like the stairs at some stations. Look carefully (or ask) there's probably an elevator in most.

Use the busses! Try to download a map now, check out the places you want to visit and know what numbers you'll need to look for. It's easy and those metro tickets work on the bus too.

The covered passages are incredible! There's a book or maybe a link somewhere in the archives.

Keep asking questions! There are a lot of people here who have given me most of the ideas listed above. You won't be bored!

Laura

 

[Cameron]

I agree on St Denis -- I saw the Basilica last June, along with two other STers! I also agree on Marmottan.

To add to the other info on the passages, these map circuits of how to see them, may be helpful.

I recommend dining at the Gyoza Bar (if you like that) when in the Passage des Panoramas.
If you need to buy toys for children, then the Passage des Princes is the place to go.

Below the Promenade des Plantes (Canal area), there is a street of ateliers, 1 through 129 Avenue Daumesnil -- Viaduc des Arts (arts and crafts). Walkable from the Bastille area.

Would she enjoy a food tour? If so, check out those offered by Paris By Mouth. I took the Marais tour about three years ago. Highly recommend.

Since she wants to see the Eiffel Tower, you can wander the foodie market street, rue Cler, on that day.

There are several good restaurants in that neighborhood that are better than the restaurants on rue Cler. Christian Constant has three restaurants on rue Saint-Dominique. There's also the famous old-school, La Fontaine de Mars on the same street. If you want Basque food, there's Chez L'Ami Jean on rue Malar. A wonderful little bistro is Au Petit Tonneau on rue Surcouf.

If going to Montmartre, there's Cinema Studio 28 (famous art house). Parigi took us to look in, and when my husband and I stayed in Montmartre, we went to several movies there. They show VO (version original), so look for English language movies playing.

This is going to sound corny, because it is, but it's great fun! It's the comedy, How to Become A Parisian in One Hour. It's in English...I persuaded a few expat friends to go with me, and we had a blast.

I'll try to think of other things!

 

[Anne]

Oh fantastic, thanks for these intriguing possibilities! (The "corny" comedy sounds like a hoot!)

What a great idea to download the bus maps. (On a bussing note - on my one previous visit to Paris, Mom and I got caught by a wildcat strike. The bus suddenly pulled over and everyone was told to get off. We had no sweet clue where we were, which was quite disconcerting for a moment! Thankfully a woman helped us figure out how to get to our destination by Metro. "The kindness of strangers" is a cliche for a reason!)

 

[nukesafe]

I strongly second the recommendation for the flea market at Vanves on the weekend, rather than the "big" one at Clignancourt, as well as a visit to St. Denis. If you do visit the park at Buttes Chaumont, it can be a special delight on a fine day on the weekend when the French take their families on picnics. Real Parisians doing their thing in the sun. I have some walking problems, too, so if you choose to go do your knees a favor and get off the Metro at the Botzaris stop, as that is at the top of the park and it is mostly downhill to the lower portions of the park. That works with the #48 and #80 buses as well. The Prominade Plantee is also a lesser know delight and, though you need to climb a few stairs from the street to get on it, it is flat for it's length, with stairs at intervals if you want to go down to a cafe.

Have a wonderful trip!

 

[Karen Frerichs]

I also like the Vanves flea much better than the Clignancourt (but maybe you have to do the biggie once, to see what it is...).

I like to go into the Institut du Monde Arabe, for tea and a great view. The building is by Jean Novel (who also did the Musee Quai Branley) and there is a terrace with a tearoom on the 5th floor... (and an elevator to get there that is open to the other floors as one goes up, so the architecture is on view a bit). Often, there is no need to order anything once up there, and the view out and over Notre Dame, etc is just great! Location is at the end of Blvd St Germaine, near the river. Not touristy, not very many people at all.

And the historic English language bookstore Shakespeare and Co is a nice place to stop and browse. Might be full of English speakers, but it's a bit of a landmark, always interesting, and now has a cafe next door that seems to have lots of young French people having coffee or lunch.

Sitting in the small quiet Place Dauphine is nice, too: halfway across the Pont Neuf, a small triangular place that has little traffic... good for people watching.

If you check on a map, these are all relatively close to each other, so could be done in one morning or afternoon, without too much walking, with several chances to sit!

 

[Shannon]

It is not much of hidden treasure, but you might enjoy an afternoon/evening hanging out in Les Berges de Seine, sitting on the river with a vino in a plastic cup. I love it there. It is fairly close to Musee D'Orsay and can be a good combo with a few hours there. Snacks and wine at Rosa Bonheur.

I always need to see the more hidden Keith Haring tryptic at Saint-Eustache. I find it truly extraordinary, and with no signs and no markings, in an unassuming chapel, it is a bit more "off the beaten track." Please try to see it.

 

[Amy]

I love the Musee des Arts Forains, the Carnival Museum. It is an interactive visit through a huge collection of old carnival equipment, a feature of French life in the 19th century. You get to play wacky carnival games, try out amazing rides, and it is great fun. It is near the redone Bercy wine warehouses, which have been turned into restaurants and shops, popular with Parisians on weekends.

 

[Karen Frerichs]

One more... I like to get a sandwich or something, and go sit in the Arenes de Lutece. It is a small Roman
arena, just off the rue Monge in the 5th... just down hill a bit from rue Mouffetard, which is not the great food street it used to be, but good for getting a bite to go...then walk downhill to the arena. The arena is still in use by Parisians: kids play soccer, I've seen a small group rehearsing a play, etc, etc. Nice place to stop and sit.

 

[SMJ]

And all the parks, of course.
Tons of benches, and time to watch regular people going about their day.
I also recommend the Musee de Cluny(or Moyen Age); it's wonderful, and fairly small.
A few steps to get upstairs, but doable.

 

[Anne]

Moira and I are really appreciating these ideas, thanks so much!!

The Prominade Plantee is also a lesser know delight

I'll check it out - thanks also for the tip re the knee-saving metro stop.

the Institut du Monde Arabe, for tea and a great view

This sounds lovely!

I always need to see the more hidden Keith Haring tryptic at Saint-Eustache.

Shannon, I remember you posting about this on Facebook, and thinking how much I'd like to see it someday. Thanks for putting it on our radar.

You get to play wacky carnival games, try out amazing rides, and it is great fun.

This does sound fun! I likely would never have come across on my own, thanks for the tip.

the Musee de Cluny(or Moyen Age); it's wonderful, and fairly small.

Oh yes, my mom and I visited the Cluny on my previous stay in Paris. Agree, it's a fascinating small museum. I'd love to show it to Moira.

 

[chachalaca]

The Monde Arabe IS pretty cool! It houses a fantastic history museum and the exterior is super cool!

 

[CaWino]

I don't know if an 18th century cemetery qualifies as off the beaten path, but people are dying to get into Cimetière du Père Lachaise (pun intended). I have been to Paris several times and find it quite interesting. It is a garden/cemetery and is home to Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, Chopan, Oscar Wilde, and many others. It is located in the 20th arrondissement. The cost is free and a self-guided map is provided. Another informative link is HERE.

 

[Anne]

Any thoughts on interesting day trips?

We may want to make an excursion or two outside of Paris. If so, we'll most likely be using public transportation. (We could rent a car for a day, but I think easier to stick with trains or buses.)

My previous visit to Paris was only for a week. We didn't leave the city, other than a day spent in Chartres, which we found charming (and the cathedral is stunning as well, of course!) We'd originally planned to visit Versailles, but never did get there. I haven't done a lot of research on day trips, since there's so much to see in Paris itself, but nice to have options. (Brussels is on our radar...a day of comic strips, waffles and chocolate! haha)

 

[CaWino]

Versailles should not be missed. We took a day trip from Paris to Bruges, "The Little Venice of the North", through tour company Viator. It was a full day and quite interesting.

 

[Anne]

Good to know, I'll keep Versailles on the list.

I'm not familiar at all with Bruges...will have a look, thanks!

 

[chachalaca]

Regarding Versailles....you need to know that you’re committing to a long, if not entire, day. Depending on the time of year you are going to be part of a large-enormous-crowd. If possible, book ahead and/or get yourselves a private/semi private tour. It is amazing, but if one has seen many chateaux...well, maybe save it for a longer trip? The gardens are immense and extraordinary and really should not be dismissed - but that is a lot of walking. Make your list and weigh all choices. Personally, I don’t put this on the "should not be missed" for everyone. But for chateaux fanatics, history buffs and garden aficionados maybe so.

 

[Anne]

Regarding Versailles....you need to know that you’re committing to a long, if not entire, day.

Oh...thanks for the additional info. It is the gardens that interest me, not so much the chateau itself. I'd thought maybe we'd go out for a couple hours one day, but I'm not keen to spend a whole day there walking around, especially with Moira having a bad knee. I'll leave it on the list, but ours isn't really a list of "must sees", it's more like a collection of "maybe/maybe nots"!