I Think This Is Sad ....

[NoSpin]

.... and I'm an American.

We spent a week in the Cotswolds in June, 2024, and thorughly enjoyed it. We had been intending to go for years since our house is in a Cotswold style. I could see some towns like Burton were quite busy with tourists. Tourists are one thing, wealthy people buying homes that they will probably live in only for a few weeks in the summer is a scourge. Hopefully there can be some kind of law to prevent this.

The Telegraph - The estate agents selling the Cotswolds dream in America

 

[JMichael]

I could not read the whole article (pay wall) but got the gist from the headline. I agree, it is sad when these beautiful homes are no longer family homes. OTOH I guess I’m part of the problem. We rent a house or apartment when we travel and if we didn’t, there wouldn’t be a market driving up prices, forcing families to look elsewhere. We are currently spending two weeks in an apartment in Venice but doing our best to be temporary Venetians rather than tourists.

 

[FoodMuse]

I adore Venice. Will be there two weeks in March. Just curious what specifically will you do to be a temporary Venetian?

 

[Ian Sutton]

I adore Venice. Will be there two weeks in March. Just curious what specifically will you do to be a temporary Venetian?

I think this is referring to what we do when we're on holiday. Are we there to immerse ourselves in the culture, or to impose our own culture?

Are we supporting the businesses the local community need, or the tourist-facing businesses that are competing with them?

e.g. I have a passion for supporting those wonderful food shops that have passed from generation to generation, steadfast in maintaining the tradition. In a similar vein I recall the author Fred Plotkin talking of the tradition of people sharing food on long train journeys, and how he wanted to do his bit to maintain it as the tradition died away.

It's never 100% simple / binary, but much of what I love about Italy is the culture / way of life, and I would always eschew a famous tourist site, in favour of an unremarkable untouristy place.

 

[Fioridave]

.... and I'm an American.

We spent a week in the Cotswolds in June, 2024, and thorughly enjoyed it. We had been intending to go for years since our house is in a Cotswold style. I could see some towns like Burton were quite busy with tourists. Tourists are one thing, wealthy people buying homes that they will probably live in only for a few weeks in the summer is a scourge. Hopefully there can be some kind of law to prevent this.

The Telegraph - The estate agents selling the Cotswolds dream in America

I so agree. Like George Clooney buying a house on Lake Como. like he “lives” there. Or any other person coplaying a foreign experience. It jacks up prices for those who don’t really live there. Fortunately three are lots of places off the radar

 

[JMichael]

I adore Venice. Will be there two weeks in March. Just curious what specifically will you do to be a temporary Venetian?

We like to stay at least a week or longer in any place we visit. Your two weeks will give you the opportunity to shop at the local shops. If you’re in an apartment rather than a hotel, you’ll be able to support locals by buying at the Rialto fish and vegetable market. You can pick up a few essentials at a Coop or Despar but try to visit the neighborhood bakery, butcher, cheese and wine shops. Avoid the souvenir stands.

If it’s your first time in Venice, you’ll want to see the Basilica San Marco and Doge’s Palace. Maybe even have a coffee at Florian or a bellini at Harry’s. However, you’ll find it much more rewarding and relaxing to stay off the beaten paths and find a neighborhood bacaro. Strike up conversations with folks, get to know them and understand their culture. The memories you make will be the most precious souvenirs you’ll have the rest of you life.

 

[Fioridave]

We like to stay at least a week or longer in any place we visit. Your two weeks will give you the opportunity to shop at the local shops. If you’re in an apartment rather than a hotel, you’ll be able to support locals by buying at the Rialto fish and vegetable market. You can pick up a few essentials at a Coop or Despar but try to visit the neighborhood bakery, butcher, cheese and wine shops. Avoid the souvenir stands.

If it’s your first time in Venice, you’ll want to see the Basilica San Marco and Doge’s Palace. Maybe even have a coffee at Florian or a bellini at Harry’s. However, you’ll find it much more rewarding and relaxing to stay off the beaten paths and find a neighborhood bacaro. Strike up conversations with folks, get to know them and understand their culture. The memories you make will be the most precious souvenirs you’ll have the rest of you life.

Go to the cemetery island, St Michele, across from Piazz San Marco. We are cemetery fans and it’s a great way to spot celebs. Diagelev (sp???) and Ezra Pound are buried there. Last time we were there there was a pair of Ballet shoes on diagelev’s grave. Also take a tour of the Jewish quarter, which is a different side of Venice. Torcello is the best of the nearby islands with a fantastic church and one of the best Judgment Day murals that I’ve ever seen. Walk six blocks from St. Marks to find a restaurant at random with fewer tourists, trick I learned in Paris

 

[Ian Sutton]

Venice was the subject of perhaps my favourite travel advice ...
"Get Lost!"

Meaning
Avoid the main tourist thoroughway, along the grand canal from railway station to St Marks Sq. Instead, duck down side streets and away from the major tourist sites

 

[GailS]

Check out The Venice Insider list of passes if you are there for 2 weeks. If you opt for the MUVE Friend Card, the Palazzo Fortuny is a different, eclectic museum I'm a big fan of. In March the Doge's Palace Secret Itineraries tour has a good chance of going to the attic above the Grand Council Chamber (not done when the weather is warm due to the heat). Consider a local guide if you have any particular interests. Years ago on the Slow Travel forum Luisella Romeo was recommended - book soon as she is so good that she is booked months in advance. Her experiences tours, as well as basic tours, are excellent. If it is of interest, rent bikes or scooters to see the Lido and take the ferry to Pellestrina and maybe even also Chioggia. There are so many not on the major tourist routes places to see.

 

[Lorac]

Go to the cemetery island, St Michele, across from Piazz San Marco. We are cemetery fans and it’s a great way to spot celebs. Diagelev (sp???) and Ezra Pound are buried there. Last time we were there there was a pair of Ballet shoes on diagelev’s grave. Also take a tour of the Jewish quarter, which is a different side of Venice. Torcello is the best of the nearby islands with a fantastic church and one of the best Judgment Day murals that I’ve ever seen. Walk six blocks from St. Marks to find a restaurant at random with fewer tourists, trick I learned in Paris

To add to all the really good suggestions, mine is to stay away from restaurants with translated menus out front.
Carol

 

[Fioridave]

To add to all the really good suggestions, mine is to stay away from restaurants with translated menus out front.
Carol

I must respectfully disagree. I’ve been to Italy at least 12 times, from Puglia to Friuli, usually for at least 2 weeks, as well as about 30 other countries. I also speak Italian very well. Sadly, in many places, like Venice or Florence, the number of tourists overwhelms locals, and businesses must attract people who don’t speak Italian, so a translated menu is necessary for them.

Often when I go to a restaurant in Italy, I tell the person at the desk my name, the time of the reservation, the number of people with me, and a preference in seating. I say it is very well accented Italian. The person will guide me to a table and give me a menu with a British flag. At least give me one with an American flag.

 

[Lorac]

You are right about the economics of a restauranteur's livelihood. Catering to tourists is essential for many restaurants' survival. It's just that my preference is to have as much of an Italian experience as I can.

 

[Fioridave]

You are right about the economics of a restauranteur's livelihood. Catering to tourists is essential for many restaurants' survival. It's just that my preference is to have as much of an Italian experience as I can.

If you want as much of an Italian experience as possible, avoid Venice, Florence, San Gimmie, and other place hit by hyper tourism. You can go to restaurants in Trieste, Bologna, or Bari, where English is not the dominante language that you hear.

Places like Sam Gimiagno or Cinque Terra are a parade of tourists. I dont know if any Italians live there who are not involved in the Tourist trade. Venice has lost almost a fourth of it’s population to tourists

 

[GailS]

Places like Venice that are heavily touristed can be a challenge to navigate to find places that locals would eat as well since every place has tourists. I think it is safe to say that in locations like this avoid any place that has photos of food, like a menu, posted outside. I'll often research a list of options and then check them out on arrival, especially if they have small frequently changing menus like Estro and Osteria Enoteca ai Artisti in Venice. Sometimes the current menu wasn't a fit for us despite having great meals in the past. Planning ahead in places like this can help avoid disappointing meals.

 

[Fioridave]

The bast trick I ever learned when I was in Venice 15 years ago trying to find a restaurant not crowded with tourists. My sister-in-law pointed to a woman and said, “ask her.” She walked us to a fantastic trattoria. Later, I asked my sister-in-law how she knew, and my sister-in-law responded that the woman was walking a dog, so obviously she was local.

 

[JMichael]

Just got home from a trip that included two weeks in Venice. This last Wednesday night we were headed back to the apartment we rented in Cannaregio and decided to stop off for a glass of wine at a bacaro we stumbled on last year. Our favorite bartender was working and refused to take my money at first, saying he thought we'd want to stick around. We ended up in a small side room with the owner (an Italian actor of some renown), a music teacher from Treviso and his partner, two students (one from Bologna, one studying in Padova, but originally from Vernazza) and intermittently, the bartender. Two Venetians and six "tourists".

What might have been a 15 minute repast turned into two hours of conversation. We talked of many things, simultaneously speaking Italian, Venetian and English. I don't think any of us got every word, but we got the gist. My point is that Italians are tourists too and though parts of Venice may be overrun by tourists there are places in the city where you can have a wonderful experience with locals and fellow travelers.

 

[FoodMuse]

Venice was the subject of perhaps my favourite travel advice ...
"Get Lost!"

Meaning
Avoid the main tourist thoroughway, along the grand canal from railway station to St Marks Sq. Instead, duck down side streets and away from the major tourist sites

Hop on and off the vaporetto and as you say "Get Lost" my favorite thing to do!

 

[FoodMuse]

The bast trick I ever learned when I was in Venice 15 years ago trying to find a restaurant not crowded with tourists. My sister-in-law pointed to a woman and said, “ask her.” She walked us to a fantastic trattoria. Later, I asked my sister-in-law how she knew, and my sister-in-law responded that the woman was walking a dog, so obviously she was local.

Smart sister! I love the local places in Dorsoduro. It's nice to see the same people year after year and some even remember me.

 

[FoodMuse]

We like to stay at least a week or longer in any place we visit. Your two weeks will give you the opportunity to shop at the local shops. If you’re in an apartment rather than a hotel, you’ll be able to support locals by buying at the Rialto fish and vegetable market. You can pick up a few essentials at a Coop or Despar but try to visit the neighborhood bakery, butcher, cheese and wine shops. Avoid the souvenir stands.

If it’s your first time in Venice, you’ll want to see the Basilica San Marco and Doge’s Palace. Maybe even have a coffee at Florian or a bellini at Harry’s. However, you’ll find it much more rewarding and relaxing to stay off the beaten paths and find a neighborhood bacaro. Strike up conversations with folks, get to know them and understand their culture. The memories you make will be the most precious souvenirs you’ll have the rest of you life.

Sage advice thank you so much!!! I have been to Venice about 17 times. I can't help myself. I rented an apartment in Dorsoduro for 12 nights. There's a Conad within a few minutes walking. I have go to bakeries, cheese and wine shops....even a florist that I find delightful. I'm a fan of Florian.... The orchestra transports me.... what an environment. Not so much Harry's. Did that twice and for me that's enough. Looking forward to a prosecco at Lido's Ristorante and Snack Bar then my walk to the sea.

As a caterer/ tavern owner I'm mesmerized by Rialto Mercato. Literally I feel my heart pound when I get there. I'm overwhelmed. Cannot wait to cook a feast and drink incomparable wine. Play some nostalgia with Celentano my once upon a time serious crush!

I was fortunate to meet local artist Ludovico DeLuigi some years ago at Osteria Bifora. Charming and charismatic individual to say the least and his art is very specific to Venice. He introduced me to other locals some of whom I knew from previous trips. Wonderful to meet up with familiar faces. Hope his studio is still open to the public.

Will have a drink at Skyline Molino Stucky rooftop bar one night to try to absorb the view. It's breathtaking. I always end up praying there because I'm so grateful.

Looking forward to some cicchetti at Squero. A stop at Gam Gam hopefully not too cold to sit outside overlooking the Guglie canal.

Excellent pizza at Profeta right near the apartment. They have the same crew every time I go yay!

Definitely a walk through Burano.

I cannot wait.

Cheers and thanks to everyone who has contributed. I appreciate it!!!!!

 

[Pauline]

How did one post about the Cotswolds turn into a thread about Italy? I will move this to the Italy forum.

But I do have a comment on the Cotswolds. We lived there for 5 years (moved 10 years ago), in the south west corner which wasn’t as touristed. The area around Chipping Norton, north east corner, was always full of second homes for the wealthy, many from London. That is where I see some wealthy Americans buying homes now. But the whole area has second homes. People who live and work in London buy country places in the Cotswolds because it is beautiful and not far from London.The same way people in the US buy country cottages for weekends and summer.