Ideas for Visiting Liguria September 2018

[Deb Adams]

We are finalizing our 3-week trip in September 2018. This will be our 6th visit to Italy. Each trip we try to stay at least a few days in a new area. This time our new target is Rapallo in the Liguria region for a week (an Airbnb apt). Some of the reasons we decided on Rapallo was the ease of utilizing the train system, closeness to the sea, and trying out local cuisine! We will most likely visit Nice, FR one day and another day or two in the Cinque Terre. What can we look forward to in the Rapallo area? We are interested in local markets for cooking some meals at the apartment, restaurants specialing in local foods, and any unusual sights. Any recommendations/experiences are greatly appreciated.

BTW...we are spending a week in Greve to enjoy the Chianti Wine Festival and another week split between Rome and Florence.

 

[Pauline]

There is a lot to see close to Rapallo - Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli, Portofino. I don’t know about markets, but all these towns will have good food shops, plus a Market day. When you visit the Cinque Terre to the south, stop also in Levanto (the first town north). Lerici, south of the Cinque Terre is an interesting town too.

I think a day trip to Nice would end up with a very long train ride. How about a day in Genoa instead?

If you are interested in hiking, there is the famous, and crowded, Cinque Terre trail, a good but less crowded trail from Levanto into the Cinque Terre, and a trail from Portofino that goes along the coast to an abbey (I think).

I haven’t been to Liguria in many years and am starting to plan a May trip, based in Levanto.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Camogli certainly in range, but also a recommendation from someone else, that Recco (otherwise with little to shout about) has a rather good early evening passeggiata.

Genova certainly has a fine covered market near Stazione Brignole (the one trains from the east typically terminate at). It's between via Galata and the main street Via XX Settembre. In addition some fine food shops around there. If you want more to see, then carry on along via XX Settembre and then head down through the old town to the Port/Marina.

 

[joe]

Never been to Rapallo, but have been to Camogli, Levanto, the Cinque Terre, and Genoa.

We've been to Genoa twice, and enjoyed the city very much both times - there's something there for everyone. As Ian mentions, a very nice covered market, Mercato Orientale :
http://www.mercatidigenova.it/mercati/orientale/
and of course all types of food shops and businesses in the city, from seafood and pasta to gelato and chocolate (look for Viganotti Chocolate and Gelato) . There are also small weekly markets, such as a biological one, that are pleasant too.
The old city and its maze of alleys is a great area to explore, especially in the evenings, and manages to surprise with every turn. Beautiful architecture, from palaces to cathedrals, and all these with the backdrop of the port. New and old don't clash - the place has character.
The main street Via XX Settembre, and the area surrounding the market, are attractive for window shopping.
The promenade with the windmills in the port is also a nice place to soak up some sun and have a leisurely walk, if the weather's good. There's a lovely observation point on the city - the Spianata di Castelletto - that can be reached by a funicular, or by a meandering stroll.

We liked Camogli and Levanto also, and are definitely worth a visit. Each have their special charm, Camogli being postcard-perfect, while Levanto is a town you'd like to live in.
The Cinque Terre we visited in the beginning of November, so we had the place almost to ourselves - I can't imagine being there during times when the villages are more populated with tourists. They are definitely also worth a visit - but as strikingly beautiful as they are, we never felt a need to re-visit.

Another area that we have explored and enjoyed, and would definitely return to, is the mountainous area north-east of Rapallo : the valleys of the Vara and Taro and surrounding mountains. Off the beaten track for most tourists, but with no lack of nice villages to stop in and examine, plus the beauty of the mountains. A car of course is a must. Varese Ligure, Borgo Val di Taro, and Bedonia to name a few of the towns. If you can time a visit there with a local festival, then even better.

 

[Alpinista]

You can walk from Rapallo to/from Portofino for a nice stroll. The trail is called Passagiata dei Baci and is marked by a red carpet the entire length (so pretty hard to get lost). Option is to take the water ferry one way and walk the other, if you so choose. Santa Margherita Ligure is roughly the halfway point on the walk. The water ferry in Rapallo also takes you to Cinque Terre and Portovenere. The old town area of Rapallo gives you a nice choice of restaurants and bars and is mainly car free.

We've made Rapallo an annual stop for the July Montallegro festival and fireworks, but even then the town is not overly crowded, so would think that September would be a very nice time to visit. Even though you will miss the festival, you can ride the funicular up the mountain to visit the Sanctuary of Montallegro to enjoy the views of the coast.

If you take the trip to Nice, a visit to the Rothschild Gardens makes for a nice afternoon. I'm not a huge fan of the CT (can get the same experience in Portovenere with far fewer people) and would suggest that you might look at other coastal towns such as Sanremo and Finale Ligure to expand your Rapallo experience. Depending on your level of interest, a stop in Monte Carlo for a tour of the palace and other sights might be entertaining.

 

[Deb Adams]

Thanks to all for your great input! You have given us lots to think about!! I will be sure to come back and let you know about our adventures.

 

[Tbk]

My favorite thing to do in Rapallo was a cooking class at U Giancu. You go in the morning and cook. Then go back in the evening and eat what you cooked. It was one of the highlights of my 50th birthday trip. Fausto was truly fun. I stayed in a hotel on the water, but make sure to wander around the part of town away from the water also.

 

[Alpinista]

My favorite thing to do in Rapallo was a cooking class at U Giancu. You go in the morning and cook. Then go back in the evening and eat what you cooked.

Thanks for this tip -- have been in touch with with Fausto and are making arrangements to do a session.

 

[Bruce Pollock]

We spent a week or so in the Liguria area when my daughter was living in Italy for a year. We enjoyed a day trip to the small beach at San Fruttuoso abbey which you can reach by boat from Camogli. It is also possible to walk there, if you are looking for more adventure.

 

[jan]

Here's another idea, not on the coast but not too far.
Go see the marble quarries in Carrara.
We really enjoyed a tour there.

 

[caliroan]

There is a lot to see close to Rapallo - Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli, Portofino. I don’t know about markets, but all these towns will have good food shops, plus a Market day. When you visit the Cinque Terre to the south, stop also in Levanto (the first town north). Lerici, south of the Cinque Terre is an interesting town too.

Lerici is really cute, and Tellaro, just above Lerici, is even cuter. About 85km from your base in Rapallo. There's a really chic beach club outside Lerici that will still be open in September - the restaurant is fantastic.

(Carrara is fascinating, it's actually in Tuscany, right where the two regions meet)

Sarazana is a not-heavily-touristed university town; there are some interesting squares and piazzas, and the Fortezza di Sarzanello is worth a visit. Built by a man with a truly awesome name - Castruccio Castracani

 

[Alpinista]

Just a caution if you decide to visit the beautiful little town of Tellaro -- one narrow road in/out that gets jammed to an unbelievable level on summer weekends. Don't know how much this would extend into September, but would be aware.

 

[Pauline]

Thank you for starting this thread. It reminded me of how much I love Liguria. I am booking our May trip there now! We have not been to Liguria in 15 years! How did that happen!

We will stay in Levanto and do the (crowded) Cinque Terre trail (we've done it twice before), but will also do other trails in the area.

 

[caliroan]

We love Liguria - where the mountains meet the sea... the Riviera di Levante is one of my favorite parts of Italy. Seafood and pesto at the coast, drive up into the hills and it's boar ragu on fried polenta etc. And so close to Western Tuscany for side trips. @Pauline looking forward to details of your trip in May.

 

[jan]

Even though Carrara is in Tuscany, not Liguria, Just wanted to add that we (there were 5 of us to split the cost) had a driver for the Carrara visit who we booked through Tau Touring in Lucca.
He was really helpful.
Here's my blog post about that day:
http://keepyourfeetinthestreet.com/2016/10/carrara-tour/

 

[misstravelbug]

So many wonderful ideas...we will be in SML in late May for a week, we are looking forward to exploring the coast.

 

[DonPolo]

If you want to be well regarded by the locals, ask about the local water polo teams in Rapallo (mainly women's) and Recco. The team of Prorecco is the Manchester United of the water polo world. It was found 105 years ago. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pro_Recco Not a big sport in the rest of the world but the locals are really proud of their teams. In September they would be in preparation for their season but there might be a trial match on. But definitely a bit of local colour. And don't forget to sample the local variants of focaccia like "... the biscuit-hard focaccia di Camogli or the focaccia di Recco (Focaccia col formaggio), a typical variety of focaccia made in Recco - this Recco version bears no resemblance to other focaccia varieties, having a caillé and cheese filling sandwiched between two layers of paper-thin dough." (Wiki).

 

[DonPolo]

PS if you are in the region, be amazed that almost every little town in Liguria has a 50m swimming pool and a water polo team!
Albenga, Albisola Bogliasco Bordighera Camogli (2) Chiavari Genova Imperia La Spezia Lavagna Lerici Loano Rapallo Recco Ronco Scrivia San Terenzo Savona Sori are just some examples!

 

[Matt D]

Rapallo has one of the best outdoor markets in the area. It also has some very nice shops. Back in the days of the cheap lire I bought a beautiful suit and pair of handmade shoes there. It is not a town that caters to tourists like some of the more popular ones in the area. The best beaches are in Sestri Levante,,,, shh, don't tell anybody. Portofino is nice, but way overhyped and overpriced, IMO and S. Fruttuoso looks great from the water, but is a bit cheesy up close - again just my impression. SML is definitely worth a visit as is Camogli. Finale Ligure on the west side of Genoa is nice with great beaches and the medieval borgo. The CT is something of a zoo these days, but if you haven't seen it I'd say one time's a must. Portovenere is every bit as nice as the CT. There's so much to see and do in Liguria you won't be disappointed.

 

[Anubis]

Rapallo has one of the best outdoor markets in the area. It also has some very nice shops. Back in the days of the cheap lire I bought a beautiful suit and pair of handmade shoes there. It is not a town that caters to tourists like some of the more popular ones in the area. The best beaches are in Sestri Levante,,,, shh, don't tell anybody. Portofino is nice, but way overhyped and overpriced, IMO and S. Fruttuoso looks great from the water, but is a bit cheesy up close - again just my impression. SML is definitely worth a visit as is Camogli. Finale Ligure on the west side of Genoa is nice with great beaches and the medieval borgo. The CT is something of a zoo these days, but if you haven't seen it I'd say one time's a must. Portovenere is every bit as nice as the CT. There's so much to see and do in Liguria you won't be disappointed.

Don't miss the Cinque Terre. Before there was highway it was a different world. Though much more touristy now it is still worth a day from PV. Nice boat ride, try Monte Rosso first.