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Ideas for where to stay between Paris and Colmar

SusanSeattle

100+ Posts
Next summer my mom and I are going on Kathy Wood's Alsace tour at the end of June. We will likely fly in and out of CDG. I would love to find a town to stay in for a couple of days before our trip. I'd like to avoid going into Paris and just take a train or bus right from CDG. We won't be renting a car.

The key criteria are:
very French feeling as opposed to the German feel of Alsace
'village' feel as opposed to city
transportation from CDG, and then on to Colmar or Strasbourg
don't need major tourist sites but gardens, cafes, views, etc. would be lovely.
prefer to stay in the north of France

Any ideas for me? I haven't had much luck researching routes.
 
Looking at the TGV route for the 11:20am train to Strasbourg (from CdG airport TGV station), there are two stops: Champagne-Ardennes or Lorraine. These would seem the logistically perfect option, or at least places within a taxi ride of those stations.

Checking Google maps, the first station stop puts you at Reims. A bit bigger than requested, but a rather pleasant centre. Lorraine station looks like it offers a less built up area due south of Metz.
 
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If you'd rather not hop on a TGV as soon as you land at CDG, I would go somewhere close to CDG, such as Senlis or Chantilly as mentioned by Cameron. However, these places take a long time to get to by public transport; the easiest/fastest way is by taxi (about 30 mins). Then on the day to leave for Alsace, you can taxi back to CDG and take the TGV from there directly to Strasbourg or Colmar.
 
Thanks for the ideas.

It seems like the most obvious choice is the taxi to Senlis/Chantilly or a train to Reims. I usually read about people doing day trips to these towns. Has anyone spent 2-3 nights?
 
I've not been to Senlis or Chantilly although I've looked into visiting the towns. Senlis sounds like a charming small town that will be worth one day. Chantilly is only 15 mins away by car, so you can take a taxi to visit. That will be 2 whole days. I think Reims is a much bigger town than either, but that doesn't mean it will be worth a longer time. It will get you closer to Alsace, though.
 
Just an evening in Reims for us, as part of an overnight stop to break the drive to Italy (we also stopped overnight in Macon/Bojo region and then Aosta). As well as the charms of the city, there is also the option of a visit to one of the big champagne houses, which can appeal outside of wine enthusiasts. I've no doubt that there will be enough to do, but my only concern is it's a little larger than you intended. Still there may be places very nearby that fit that brief, with the option of getting a bus in for a stroll round the cathedral etc. if it appeals.
 
I think I've given up on finding a small town and am leaning towards staying a couple of nights in Reims. I think we would fly into Paris and stay overnight. Then the next day take the train to Reims for 2 nights, and finally take a train to Colmar. I think we can fly out from Basel Euroairport instead of backtracking to Paris.

Reims is not the small village I had been thinking of, but for this trip, I think Reims will make an interesting stop. One day in Paris will give us time to walk around and have a couple of good meals while getting over jet lag.
 
Also meant to say that I found a lovely sounding b&b in Reims called Les Telliers.
And, I'd love to go back to Juveniles or L'Orangerie.

I've been on several winery tours, but a champagne tour could be fun. Ruinart looks like it would be worthwhile.
Would love to hear any suggestions for sights, restaurants, or champagne tours/tastings.
 
Hi Susan
Is there any chance you could go straight to Reims - it seems a really convenient option to have the direct fast train from CGD airport to Reims. One transfer rather than two. In terms of checking in/out & traveling time, you could save a good few hours with a direct connection.

Digging into old threads on a wine forum, for a well-known champagne house with interesting tour, Taittinger was mentioned and also Pommery.
For food Le Foch (66 Bvd Maréchal Foch) in Reims sounds quite fancy, but apparently they've relaxed from chasing a 2nd michelin star and gone a little more traditional (and all the better for it they say) Quite fish focused. Note was made of the proprietress being very stern/serious (often a good sign IMO). Brasserie Flo was recommended for something more casual. There is also a write-up from the forum owner here https://wine-pages.com/food-and-travel/a-luxury-weekend-itinerary-in-the-champagne-region/
A good wine shop mentioned as well
Cave du Forum. It's on rue des Courmeaux (no 10) about 5 mins walk from Cathedral, down in the cellars so very cool
Les Crayères (very fancy) and Version Originale also got recommendations to eat in Reims;


Whilst searching that site, I saw these suggestions of smaller places near Reims (someone was looking for a place to stop over in the car)
Laon is a pretty hilltop town just to the right of the motorway twenty minutes before Reims. If there are no better suggestions you may find somewhere suitable there on spec.

On the other side of Reims, just north of Chalons, there's a pretty little town called Epine. The founder of Peradel wines, now CPH, had a restaurant in the centre of the town opposite the cathedral/abbey/large church (never sure which it is officially) that had a decent reputation, though I've no experience of it.
 
I've been reading about Reims because I think we will spend a night there driving home from Switzerland in September. There are Roman ruins.

On the way to Switzerland we will spend a night in Colmar.

So we are hitting some of the same spots as you!
 
Ian,
Thanks for all the ideas. I've heard good things about Pommery and Taittinger as well. I'll have to research and pick one.
When I search for trains from CDG, it looks like there are only a few trains that go to Reims without having to make several changes . Once I know our flight times, I can check to see if the train right from CDG would work.

Pauline, looking forward to hearing about what you do in Colmar and Reims. You might like the b&b I mention above.
 
You can search a destination of Champagne-Ardenne TGV station, which is 8 km from Reims. There are regular direct trains from CDG taking 30 minutes. I knew of the Capitaine Train site for France, and now it redirects to www.trainline.eu .
 
I believe Trainline bought Capitaine Train.
I was including the Champagne stop. For trains after 11 am, I see 11:20, 12:45, 3, and 5:40. Any idea whether I could buy tickets the day of? Searching for tomorrow, I still see all the interesting trains available for around 40 euros.
 
Yes, for a walk-up fare you'd probably be limited to the flexible fares. I'd guess you could find seats available unless it's a peak travel day, but others may know more about that.
 

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