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Italy Trip Plans for October 2017 (Venice, Rome, Positano)

devarae

100+ Posts
Hello SlowEurope folks!

Thank you for all the tremendously helpful information shared on this site-- I used the old SlowTrav site as a resource for several previous trips and am grateful that the community lives on to some degree here.

My husband, mom and I will be heading off to Italy soon, and I am diving back in to more planning. I've already finalized the basics (flights, lodging, transportation) but thought I would share my current itinerary here in case anyone had any suggestions or advice, and because I am starting to get excited and want to share! I realize it's not particularly SLOW, especially the three nights in Rome, but we are planning to do our best to appreciate everything and not cram too much into each day.

As backstory: We previously spent five nights each in Florence and Venice in October of 2009. My husband visited Rome when he was much younger. We prefer street food, sandwiches and shopping at local markets to fine dining, and several of us have mostly vegetarian diets. We also don't drink. We do like history (especially antiquities), beautiful scenery, parks, cool atmosphere, and off-the-beaten path locations.

We'll be flying out of Boston on Sunday evening, October 1, connecting in Amsterdam and then arriving in Venice on October 2.

I have booked an AirBnB apartment on Rio Romite in Dorsoduro for four nights: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/13754654

We stayed on the same canal, in a different apartment, last time we were in Venice and loved the area. During that visit we saw the Doge's Palace (including the Secret Itineraries tour), St Mark's, and Burano, along with a lot of smaller sites. I don't feel a compelling desire to return to any of them, except possibly St Mark's if it is actually less crowded first thing in the morning!

Some of the places we have not been that I am considering trying to see are: Ca'Rezzonico, the Guggenheim museum, and spending more time in Cannaregio, Santa Croce and Castello. We also have not been to Giuddeca or climbed up to any of the towers with views. Last visit my favorite thing was just wandering the streets and bridges, buying groceries, and walking along the Zattere, so I plan to do plenty of that again! I also have a list of gelaterias and pastry shops to search for...

On Friday, October 6 we will check out and head to Santa Lucia station for our 11:25 train (the fast one, but 2nd class seats) to Rome, arriving 3:10 at Roma Termini. I am hoping it is okay for us to bring bagged lunches with us to eat on the train!

I have booked an Airbnb apartment on Vicolo del Bologna in Trastevere for three nights: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/5945384


I've never been to Rome and am honestly not entirely certain I'll enjoy it, though I know many love it. I didn't really enjoy Florence-- too busy, too much traffic, not enough green space-- and am worried Rome isn't for me, which is part of the reason we really only have two full days there. But I figure if I DO love it, we'll return for a longer stay and give it full attention.

My current plan is to spend Friday night settling in, go for a walk around the neighborhood, maybe across to the Pantheon. The only other "must-do" thing on our list is a visit to the Coliseum & Forum. From what I am reading, it sounds like the pass is valid for two days but you can't re-enter individual sites? If so, we might do Coliseum on Saturday, Forum/Hill on Sunday. Or maybe try to do it all Saturday, then save Sunday for wandering around one of the gardens or museums. I am still considering trying to get us spots on a semi-private tour, but am waffling over the options!

I have a long list of foodie spots (markets and pizza places and gelato and pastry shops), and am especially keen to try cacio e pepe! I'd also love to spend an evening on some rooftop terrace with a beverage-- but I don't actually drink alcohol (none of my family do). I do enjoy mocktails but have no idea if one can find such things in Italy.

On Monday, October 9, we check out and head to Roma Termini for another fast train, second class, this time to Naples. We leave Rome at 10:12 and arrive Naples 11:20. We have hired a private car service to pick us up and take us to our final destination in Positano. But I've arranged for the driver to stop at Pompeii along the way, where we will have three hours to explore. I would love to spend more time there, and to visit Herculaneum, but that will have to wait for another dedicated trip.

I didn't hire any sort of guide for Pompeii and am hoping to rely on pre-trip research, printed materials, and maybe the Rick Steves app or similar. I enjoy research and think I can manage this myself, but we'll see!

In Positano, we will be staying our final four nights at another Airbnb: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1439403

From everything I can tell, it's up near the top of the town, but according to reviews there are several markets nearby. I know it will be a long climb up and down to the sea but hopefully we can avail ourselves of the local bus for some of that!

The one thing I most want to do while staying on the coast is to visit Ravello, ideally via ferry to Amalfi and then bus. Other than that we will probably mostly just relax! I might try to do one of the hikes others have posted about from Montepertuso (using the local bus) and we might try to take the ferry to Capri if the weather is nice.

We'll get another hired car (already arranged) to pick us up early on Friday October 13, and take us to Naples airport where we get our flight home to Boston (connecting in Amsterdam).

That's it! I welcome any advice or suggestions, keeping in mind that the itinerary itself is fixed. :)

I'm hoping to post updates from the road in the Trip Reports forum, and add more detailed notes after I return. I just got my first smartphone and am hoping to find enough wifi to upload a few photos as I go!
 
Hi Devarae
The word to look out for for non-alcoholic is 'analcolico' (pronounced something like Ann-Al-Koll-eeko). Senza alcool (without alcohol) would probably work fine as well.

From what I can tell from the comments, the apartment is located in the area of Chiesa Nuova means it's up nearer the main road, less than 100m walk on the path from Bar Internazionale, so makes catching buses very easy. Probably where I'd choose to stay, rather than lower down. It will mean a big trudge up the steep hill if catching the ferry, but if going to Amalfi (change here for Ravello), cheat by getting the ferry on the way out (as you plan to do), and bus on the way back to avoid the steep climb. Do however remember to look backwards as the ferry leaves Positano, the view is IMO the best view of Positano, especially if the sun is out.

Regards
Ian
 
Sounds like a good trip. I didn't expect to like Rome on my first trip but I ended up falling in love. So you may end up liking it. For green space (and an amazing museum that you must prebook) be sure to check out the Borghese.

As for Positano, you are WAY up in the village - much too high for my taste. But there certainly are markets up there where you can purchase supplies if you feel like cooking in the apartment. I have been high up in the village running errands a few times and exploring all the stairways and alleys going down through the village is fun and you get some great photo ops. On my first trip I also found it valuable to take a walking tour, to learn more about the history of the village and the area. I know Zia Lucy now offers the walking tour. www.zialucy.com

The Buca di Bacco bar/cafe right on the beach has mocktails and fresh squeezed juice. In fact, I find many of the cafes have mocktails on the menu - more than in the States. On the pedestrian pathway going from Piazza Mulini down to the beach there are a couple of places you can purchase food for a picnic, one of which is the Delikatessen.

I will be in Positano the first 2 weeks of October also - here's hoping the weather holds!
 
I'm traveling myself right now and don't have access to the info, but search the old site or google for the Colosseum Underground Tour. You will NOT regret it.

We used the Rick Steve's audio guide for Pompeii as well as many other sites. Well worth the money. ;)
 
I'm traveling myself right now and don't have access to the info, but search the old site or google for the Colosseum Underground Tour. You will NOT regret it.

We used the Rick Steve's audio guide for Pompeii as well as many other sites. Well worth the money. ;)
The daytime Underground Colosseum tickets for October go on sale Monday, 9/18, at 9am Rome time. They go on the sale the 3rd Monday of every month for the next month. They sell out within an hour or two, so you would have to go on the site at 3am EST, 9/18, to try to get tickets. Here is the official site to purchase these tickets:
https://www.coopculture.it/en/events.cfm?id=6
We are doing the night tour of the Underground Colosseum on October 7th...those tickets can be bought now for October if any are still available. The site to purchase those is here:
http://etickets.coopculture.it/inde...event&id=CD4D8A1E-0186-47FF-97BD-67A05CE7B02C
 
Sounds like a good trip. I didn't expect to like Rome on my first trip but I ended up falling in love. So you may end up liking it. For green space (and an amazing museum that you must prebook) be sure to check out the Borghese.

As for Positano, you are WAY up in the village - much too high for my taste. But there certainly are markets up there where you can purchase supplies if you feel like cooking in the apartment. I have been high up in the village running errands a few times and exploring all the stairways and alleys going down through the village is fun and you get some great photo ops. On my first trip I also found it valuable to take a walking tour, to learn more about the history of the village and the area. I know Zia Lucy now offers the walking tour. www.zialucy.com

The Buca di Bacco bar/cafe right on the beach has mocktails and fresh squeezed juice. In fact, I find many of the cafes have mocktails on the menu - more than in the States. On the pedestrian pathway going from Piazza Mulini down to the beach there are a couple of places you can purchase food for a picnic, one of which is the Delikatessen.

I will be in Positano the first 2 weeks of October also - here's hoping the weather holds!

I'll also be in Positano Sept. 30-Oct.7th! I'll be with my "fun-tastic" travel family. We are going with Gail Hecko who owns http://gailsgreatescapes.com/pb/wp_0c89dc02/wp_0c89dc02.html We are staying in a villa 109 steps up from the street where La Sirenuse Hotel is located. This will be my second trip to Positano with Gail. Maybe we can meet up for a Spritz on the beach!

:) Mindy
 
Hello SlowEurope folks!

Thank you for all the tremendously helpful information shared on this site-- I used the old SlowTrav site as a resource for several previous trips and am grateful that the community lives on to some degree here.

My husband, mom and I will be heading off to Italy soon, and I am diving back in to more planning. I've already finalized the basics (flights, lodging, transportation) but thought I would share my current itinerary here in case anyone had any suggestions or advice, and because I am starting to get excited and want to share! I realize it's not particularly SLOW, especially the three nights in Rome, but we are planning to do our best to appreciate everything and not cram too much into each day.

As backstory: We previously spent five nights each in Florence and Venice in October of 2009. My husband visited Rome when he was much younger. We prefer street food, sandwiches and shopping at local markets to fine dining, and several of us have mostly vegetarian diets. We also don't drink. We do like history (especially antiquities), beautiful scenery, parks, cool atmosphere, and off-the-beaten path locations.

We'll be flying out of Boston on Sunday evening, October 1, connecting in Amsterdam and then arriving in Venice on October 2.

I have booked an AirBnB apartment on Rio Romite in Dorsoduro for four nights: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/13754654

We stayed on the same canal, in a different apartment, last time we were in Venice and loved the area. During that visit we saw the Doge's Palace (including the Secret Itineraries tour), St Mark's, and Burano, along with a lot of smaller sites. I don't feel a compelling desire to return to any of them, except possibly St Mark's if it is actually less crowded first thing in the morning!

Some of the places we have not been that I am considering trying to see are: Ca'Rezzonico, the Guggenheim museum, and spending more time in Cannaregio, Santa Croce and Castello. We also have not been to Giuddeca or climbed up to any of the towers with views. Last visit my favorite thing was just wandering the streets and bridges, buying groceries, and walking along the Zattere, so I plan to do plenty of that again! I also have a list of gelaterias and pastry shops to search for...

On Friday, October 6 we will check out and head to Santa Lucia station for our 11:25 train (the fast one, but 2nd class seats) to Rome, arriving 3:10 at Roma Termini. I am hoping it is okay for us to bring bagged lunches with us to eat on the train!

I have booked an Airbnb apartment on Vicolo del Bologna in Trastevere for three nights: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/5945384


I've never been to Rome and am honestly not entirely certain I'll enjoy it, though I know many love it. I didn't really enjoy Florence-- too busy, too much traffic, not enough green space-- and am worried Rome isn't for me, which is part of the reason we really only have two full days there. But I figure if I DO love it, we'll return for a longer stay and give it full attention.

My current plan is to spend Friday night settling in, go for a walk around the neighborhood, maybe across to the Pantheon. The only other "must-do" thing on our list is a visit to the Coliseum & Forum. From what I am reading, it sounds like the pass is valid for two days but you can't re-enter individual sites? If so, we might do Coliseum on Saturday, Forum/Hill on Sunday. Or maybe try to do it all Saturday, then save Sunday for wandering around one of the gardens or museums. I am still considering trying to get us spots on a semi-private tour, but am waffling over the options!

I have a long list of foodie spots (markets and pizza places and gelato and pastry shops), and am especially keen to try cacio e pepe! I'd also love to spend an evening on some rooftop terrace with a beverage-- but I don't actually drink alcohol (none of my family do). I do enjoy mocktails but have no idea if one can find such things in Italy.

On Monday, October 9, we check out and head to Roma Termini for another fast train, second class, this time to Naples. We leave Rome at 10:12 and arrive Naples 11:20. We have hired a private car service to pick us up and take us to our final destination in Positano. But I've arranged for the driver to stop at Pompeii along the way, where we will have three hours to explore. I would love to spend more time there, and to visit Herculaneum, but that will have to wait for another dedicated trip.

I didn't hire any sort of guide for Pompeii and am hoping to rely on pre-trip research, printed materials, and maybe the Rick Steves app or similar. I enjoy research and think I can manage this myself, but we'll see!

In Positano, we will be staying our final four nights at another Airbnb: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1439403

From everything I can tell, it's up near the top of the town, but according to reviews there are several markets nearby. I know it will be a long climb up and down to the sea but hopefully we can avail ourselves of the local bus for some of that!

The one thing I most want to do while staying on the coast is to visit Ravello, ideally via ferry to Amalfi and then bus. Other than that we will probably mostly just relax! I might try to do one of the hikes others have posted about from Montepertuso (using the local bus) and we might try to take the ferry to Capri if the weather is nice.

We'll get another hired car (already arranged) to pick us up early on Friday October 13, and take us to Naples airport where we get our flight home to Boston (connecting in Amsterdam).

That's it! I welcome any advice or suggestions, keeping in mind that the itinerary itself is fixed. :)

I'm hoping to post updates from the road in the Trip Reports forum, and add more detailed notes after I return. I just got my first smartphone and am hoping to find enough wifi to upload a few photos as I go!

I'll be there the week before you...also flying home to Boston via Naples on Oct. 7th (via Zurich).

your trip sounds fantastic!!

Mindy
 
Maybe we can meet up for a Spritz on the beach!

Sounds great Mindy! Be sure to have a drink at Franco's, which is the new bar next to Le Sireneuse (the old car park). Gorgeous views and great people watching! By the end of your trip you will be in great shape climbing the 109 steps - another way to work off the pasta!

We took the Buca di Baco cooking class a few years ago - it was a nice way to spend a couple of hours and you get to enjoy the fruits of your labor!
 
Sounds great Mindy! Be sure to have a drink at Franco's, which is the new bar next to Le Sireneuse (the old car park). Gorgeous views and great people watching! By the end of your trip you will be in great shape climbing the 109 steps - another way to work off the pasta!

We took the Buca di Baco cooking class a few years ago - it was a nice way to spend a couple of hours and you get to enjoy the fruits of your labor!
oh I adore Andrea from Buca di Baco! I took that class as well and our group will do it again this year. Best and most fun cooking class ever! Let's touch base before we both leave. My email is Mindy54 at Comcast dot net
 
Wow, thank you for all the great info everyone! I am taking notes!

Sorry I will miss you in Positano, Mindy, but I hope you have a wonderful time!

Engred, I hope we both have good weather! Thank you for the Positano info.

Thank you NoSpin and Mom83 for the info on Underground Coliseum, that sounds like something we would enjoy, if we can get tickets.

And thank you Ian for the information on ordering non-alcoholic drinks and visiting Ravello! Much appreciated!
 
The ferries between Positano and Amalfi should still be running until October 15th so you'll just make it, assuming that the seas cooperate.

The current schedule is here: http://www.travelmar.it/it/orari

They are pretty good about updating the web site immediately after a schedule change, so check it again just before your trip. You'll notice that several of the smaller runs (to Cetara, Maiori, or Minori for example) will disappear but the main routes will continue into the early fall.
 
The last few years the ferries have actually run until October 31, but in October you have a slightly greater chance of them being cancelled due to sea conditions.

Two years ago I was there the first of October and had planned to take the ferry to Capri one day when it was cancelled due to sea condition. The weather was beautiful so I just spent the day on the beach sunbathing. So always have a back-up plan just in case!
 
Two years ago I was there the first of October and had planned to take the ferry to Capri one day when it was cancelled due to sea condition. The weather was beautiful so I just spent the day on the beach sunbathing. So always have a back-up plan just in case!

I imagine we would enjoy ourselves even if we never got to leave Positano! :) But hopefully we will have good ferry weather on one of our days!
 
The last few years the ferries have actually run until October 31, but in October you have a slightly greater chance of them being cancelled due to sea conditions.

Two years ago I was there the first of October and had planned to take the ferry to Capri one day when it was cancelled due to sea condition. The weather was beautiful so I just spent the day on the beach sunbathing. So always have a back-up plan just in case!
Engred, sorry we didn't meet up in Positano. I sent you an email when I arrived but never heard from you. Hope you had (are having) a wonderful time. The weather was perfect for our week!!
 
Mindy I am so sorry to have missed you! I had connectivity issues at the beginning of our trip. The weather for our 2 weeks was lovely - only one super windy day and one slightly overcast. Neither of which stopped us from enjoying ourselves. I hope you had a lovely time and can't wait to read about it!
 

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