West Midlands Ledbury, Herefordshire

Ledbury is an attractive small market town in the depths of rural Herefordshire. It has a lot of timber frame buildings and retains much of its medieval street pattern with a rabbit warren of narrow streets with alleyways off. It is the local service centre for the area with a good range of family owned and specialist shops and is always busy.

Ledbury is mentioned in Domesday with 12 households and a church. It was an important crossing point for roads from Hereford, Worcester and Gloucester.

The town was granted a market charter by King Stephen in 1138, although there were no markets held during the years of the Black Death and the charter lapsed. It was renewed by Elizabeth I.

The St Katherine Almshouses were founded in 1232 by the Bishop of Hereford as a hospital providing help and support to the poor, needy and sick as well as passing travellers.

By the end of the C15th, Ledbury became an important centre for wool. The local sheep produced long haired fleeces which were in high demand and could command premium prices. Several wealthy merchants, including the Skynner family, whose memorial is in the church, were the driving force behind the creation of a prestigious new town centre. They organised the production and marketing of cloth, providing employment for weavers, finishers and dyers. This led to the rapid expansion of Ledbury and many of the timber frame buildings date from then. Church Street leading from the Market place to the Church is a good example of this.

Ledbury Park at the end of High Street was built in 1590 by the Skynner family and is one of the best examples of Tudor timber frame architecture. It was later passed to the Biddulph family (whose tombs and memorials are also in the church) when Anthony Biddulph married Constance Hall, the grand daughter of Edward Skynner.

Several of the inns in Ledbury (The Feathers, the Old Talbot Inn and the Seven Stars) all date from the C16th.

Later tanning leather and glove making also became important.

The Market House dates from the C17th and was built on the site of the original Market Place.

A Free Grammar School (now the Heritage centre) endowed with rents from the dissolved Chantry Lands,was opened in 1612 in a house on Church Street, next to the Prince of Wales Inn.

The Georgians had an abhorrence of timber frame and many of the older buildings were covered with plaster or brick. The original Tudor gables can still be seen behind the Georgian brick parapet of Tinsmiths next to Boots on High Street.

The Herefordshire and Gloucestershire Canal arrived in 1789 with wharves in the centre of the town, allowing for easy and cheap movement of goods. However, it was always short of water and never the commercial success it was hoped it would be. It closed in 1885 when part of the route was used by the Great Western Railway.

The railway brought increased traffic to Ledbury and a rapid growth. Butcher’s Row in the Middle of High Street was demolished. The fifteen buildings had grown on the pitches of the medieval market stalls and animals were brought here for slaughter. Not only did this remove the dung and waste, it also made the road much wider for the increasing traffic.

The Barrett Browning Institute with its clock tower was built in 1896.

Ledbury is still very much a rural centre with agriculture being the main industry. The cider orchards around the Ledbury area produce around half the cider drunk and there is a cycle trail visiting them.

It is still very much a traditional market town with a Tuesday and Saturday market still held in the Market Hall. It doesn’t feature on the usual tourist itinerary but is a delightful place to visit or stay as it is a good base for anyone wanting to visit Hereford, Worcester or Gloucester as well as the Forest of Dean and the western Cotswolds.

Useful websites

Ledbury Civic Society

Map of Ledbury marking main buildings

Heritage walk


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[Eleanor]

A walk around Ledbury

Ledbury is best seen on foot. A good starting place is the MARKET HOUSE built in the C17th on the site of the original market place. Although King Stephen had issued a market charter in the C12th, this had lapsed during the time of the Black Death when there had been no markets but was renewed by Elizabeth I. The market place had gradually been built on with two rows of ramshackled shops.

With the issue of the new charter, John Phillips, one of the traders proposed a public subscription to purchase and demolish one of the rows and build a new market hall in its place. This would be two storey building, raised on sixteen pillars and having a timber frame with a brick infill and a number of small shops below, between the stilts. The upper floor would provide secure storage for grain, wool, hops and acorns needed in the tanning industry.The building took many years to build and cost considerably more than the original sum raised. (The second row of shops, Butchers Row was eventually demolished in the C19th.)

The ground floor is still used for the Tuesday and Saturday markets. The upper floor is still used for council meetings as well as exhibitions.

On the Opposite side of High Street are the stone built ST KATHERINE’S HOSPITAL AND ALMSHOUSES AND ST KATHERINE’S CHAPEL which were founded in 1232 by the Bishop Of Hereford. They provided for the spiritual and material needs of the poor and needy of the town as well as passing travellers, cared for by a small group of ‘Brethren’.

Hospitals like this were common in the Middle Ages and functioned as a hostel, almshouse, church and place for pilgrims, the poor and sick to get a meal. This is one of the most important hospital sites to survive. The almshouses were rebuilt and expanded in the C19th, replacing the original half timbered building. They still provide sheltered accommodation for ‘poor persons of good character who have lived in Ledbury Parish for 3 years’.

Outside the Almshouses is a horse trough which is now filled with bedding plants as well as the war memorial.

The whole community lived together in the same building until the MASTER’S HOUSE was built in the C15th. The master was chosen from the Brethren. As well as ensuring the smooth running of the hospital, the Master also had to manage all the lands bestowed on the hospital. They were accountable to the Dean and Chapter of Hereford Cathedral.

This was originally a timber frame building but the exterior was covered in a fashionable brick facade on the late C18th. This is now a community hub, housing the library and community services centre as well as hiring out space.

The BARRETT BROWING INSTITUTE with its clock tower is on the corner of High Street, Homeend and Bye Street.

It was funded by public subscription and was opened in 1896 on the site of the town’s tanning pits. It was named in honour of the poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning, who spent part of her youth at Hope End in the parish of Ledbury. It contained a reading room, library and meeting rooms and is now the home of Ledbury Poertry and is a thriving cultural and artistic hub.

CHURCH LANE is probably the oldest street in Ledbury and is a narrow cobbled street road lined with timber frame houses which leads to the church.

At junction of Church Street and Church Lane is a half timber frame building dating from around 1500 that houses the town council offices and tourist information on the ground floor and the PAINTED ROOM (#3) above. When the building was restored in 1988, layers of wallpaper were stripped away in one of the upstairs rooms, revealing frescoes from the 1560s or 1570s. These were preserved with the help of English Heritage and are considered the best examples of Elizabethan wall paintings in the country

A bit further up Church Street is the HERITAGE CENTRE next to the Prince of Wales Inn.

Dating from the late C15th, it is a typical timber frame house made up of many bays.

It was originally built for a wool merchant and a stream ran under the building and was probably used for washing fleeces. Internal partitions were a thin layer of wattle infilled with daub.

It later became the boys’ grammar school with schoolroom and attached master’s house. Schooling was very different in Tudor times with a school day from 6am to 5pm in the summer and 7pm to 4pm in the winter. The boys had to provide their own candles. The boys sat on long form. There were few books and writing materials were expensive with rote learning as the main teaching method. The main subject taught was Latin as that was the language still used by the law and church.

The curriculum gradually extended in the C18th and the Grammar Schools Act of 1840 added mathematics, English, history, geography and the natural sciences. There is a small Victorian classroom set up in a corner of the building.

The school eventually closed around1860 and was divided up into tenements until 1969. By then the building was in a very poor condition and was completly restored to become the heritage Centre (free admission), with exhibits on the history and geography of the area as well as John Masefield who was born here and Elizabeth Barrett Browning who lived near her when a child here.

The Upper Floor is now used as a venue for exhibitions, meetings and events

Opposite and set back from the street is BUTCHER’S ROW HOUSE MUSEUM, a small local history museum.

This was one of the row of 15 houses known as Butcher’s Row that ran down the centre of High Street, immediately in front of St Katherine’s Almshouses. Animals were slaughtered here, leading to very unsanitary conditions. The 'row' was demolished in the C19th to allow coach traffic to move more easily through the town but also as an attempt to rid the the area of the refuse, offal smell and noise of slaughter in the street.

Material from the demolished buildings was sold to defray costs. This building is one of only two which survived and was originally moved to a garden behind a shop in the High Street, where it was used for storage. In the 1970s, the building was gifted to the Civic Society who re-erected it in its present location as a small museum. (free admission)

Inside is a real hotch potch of exhibits over two floors, with an emphasis on local history. There is everything from a slipper bath to a serpent used in church music, as well as armour worn at the Battle of Ledbury and a wonderful Gardening smock.

Further up is the impressive C16th timber frame Church House.

Beyond and set back from the street is the C15th Abbot’s house, which served as the vicarage.

Opposite on the junction with Church Road is the early C18th brick built Old Magistrates House, which also contained the Police Station and Magistrates Court.

At the top of the street is the Church of St Michael and All Angels (#4)

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[Eleanor]

The Painted Room

The Painted room is on the first floor of one of Ledbury’s oldest buildings, believed to date from the late C15th. The rest of the building is now used as council offices.

The building had become very dilapidated and was being restored in the late C20th when workmen stripping off layers of wallpaper and paint in a room on the upper floor, uncovered wall paintings. Work stopped and a team of experts were called in from English Heritage. They found what is one of the best examples of Elizabethan domestic paintings in Britain. There may still be more to find behind the panelling on the ground floor.

In the C16th, the rich had tapestries on their walls, as decoration and also draught excluders. Less wealthy used hessian which could be painted. Others who were unable to afford these, painted their walls instead.

There is a small display area on the ground floor with information about the Painted Room as well as other buildings of interest in Ledbury.

Numbers in the Painted Room are limited and the guide gives a short talk about the paintings and the history of the building.

The building is adjacent to the site of the Medieval Market Place. Anyone who wanted to trade at the market had to have a licence and pay a toll for their stall, which was collected by the Town Constable.

The building was originally the Booth Hall which was the administrative centre for the town and the Town Constable lived here. The upper floor room was the courtroom provided by the Constable for use on market days. It was a Low Court dispensing rough and ready justice. As well as dealing with drinks, thieves and cut throats, they also dealt with petty crimes and disputes between traders and customers about short measures, bad meat etc. Instant punishments included branding, whipping or putting in the stocks. It was referred to as a Pie Powder Court and was in operation until the C19th.( The name comes from Norman French and means dusty feet. The Town Constable could tell the difference between townsfolk and travellers who had come from the surrounding area by the state of their dusty feet.)

The Town Constable at the time was Richard Skull, who was descended from the minor nobility and married Elizabeth Skynner, from one of the wealthy merchant families. They were both up and coming members of society and trying to emulate their betters, although they couldn’t afford tapestries and had to ‘make do’ with paintings instead.

The painting are a typical Tudor design of interwoven lines representing the paths and hedges of a knot garden, a popular pattern at the time. These traditionally would have been dwarf box, lavender or rosemary. Between are flowers, fruits and leaves set on a dark blue or black background. The flowers and fruits were probably chosen for their symbolic meanings. The flowers are either roses (love, beauty, joy) or strawberries (innocence, purity). The fan shaped flowers may be carnations which the Elizabethans called gilly flowers (maternal love, poverty). The deep red flowers with white petals could be daisies (humility) or Tudor roses (unity). The fruits are probably strawberries (perfect righteousness).

There are a series of texts set in rust coloured borders. These have been identified as quotes from a 1549 psalter and the 1557 Bible. They are in sequence, so it is possible to work out what the missing sections are.

Colours used were all natural pigments, charcoal black, red and yellow ochre, red lead, artificial copper blue, lime white, earth green and raw umber. They were mixed with a glue base made by boiling up hoof, bone and horn, The wattle and daub walls were primed with a thin skim of lime and hair plaster and painted while still wet.These natural pigments are remarkably stable so the colours are very similar to when they were first painted.

Wall paintings are often seen in churches, but there are very few examples of domestic wall paintings. This was a fascinating and very well worthwhile visit. It is free, but donations are appreciated.

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[Eleanor]

St Michael and All Angels Church

St Michael and All Angels’ Church at the top of Church Street is unusual as the bell tower containing eight bells is completely separate from the rest of the church building. It was probably used as a stronghold by villagers when threatened by Welsh raiders. The tall elegant spire was added in the C18th and is a local landmark as it towers above the surrounding buildings.

The present church is thought to have been built on the site of a Saxon Minster.

When seen from the west end, ithe church looks like a three aisled building, as the aisles are as tall as the nave.

The west doorway is Norman with its round arch and zig zag carving. The nave and chancel date from the C12th. The side aisles, vestry and porch were added in the C14th.

The church underwent a very necessary restoration in the C19th when the floor level was raised tom protect against damp. The chancel screen was removed. The pews, pulpit and organ were replaced and new stained glass in the windows.

PLAN

Entry is through the small porch on the north wall, which had a priest’s room above.

NAVE AND SIDE AISLES

It is a big church with octagonal pillars supporting pointed arches. Those on the south arcade are bowing outwards which may explain the need for the heavy buttressing on the outside of the south aisle. Above is a C15th barrel wood ceiling. The chancel arch has a C20th crystal cross made from cut glass, suspended from it. This is believed to be unique in England, but does look a bit ‘tacky’.

Just inside the north door are the memorials to the dead of both World Wars.

Near them is a C16th painting of the Last Supper which came from the workshop of Titan. Titan would have composed the painting and may even have done some of the underpainting. It was completed after his death by different artists in his workshop, explaining the different styles of painting. The painting was donated to the church in 1909. It was only after it was restored a few years ago that the significance of the painting was discovered.

The great west window depicts the First and Second coming of Christ.

At the back of the south aisle is the Biddulph family vault and memorials. The founders of the dynasty were Anthony Biddulf who married Constance, a member of Skynner and they lived in Ledbury Hall. Their tombs are in the railed area. Other family memorials are on the walls.

Next to it is the tomb of Robert Biddulph who died in 1814 The marble figure is that of Charlotte his mourning widow . On either side are their children.

Old tombstones are displayed on the floor of the nave.

At the end of the south aisle is ST ANNE'S CHAPEL which was originally a chantry chapel but now used for private prayer. The windows are by CE Kempe with the east window depicting the Crucifixion.

At the front of the chapel is the C17th font.

The C19th font is opposite in the north aisle beneath the Royal Coat of Arms of George III and is the work of GG Scott.

The pulpit by the chancel arch was carved by a late C19th rector, Rev John Jackson, in memory of his son who died young. He also carved the altar rails.

Also in the north aisle is the HEATON WINDOW, installed in 1991. This was given by Stuart Heaton in memory of his parents Arthur and Biddy Heaton who were active members and benefactors in the town. Among other things, he was editor of the Ledbury Reporter and Betty was involved in the Mother’s Union and WI. The window is a dramatic abstract interpretation of the Benedicite, which talks of all creation praising God, along with images reflecting the couple's long involvement with the community. It repays time studying as there is a lot of detail.

Near it is the enamel painted window by Sir Joshua Reynolds depicting Faith, Hope and Charity. This dates from 1830 before the revival of stained glass. The figures are painted on plain glass with colours made of ground glass and then fired. It gives a completely different and vibrant effect.

Off the north aisle, is what is described as ‘THE CHAPTER HOUSE' or ST KATHERINE'S CHAPEL.

This was built around 1315 and is very light and airy with large windows with ball flower decoration on the tracery, characteristic of that date. There was no piscina or altar so is unlikely it was used as a chapel.

It may have been built by the Benedictines from Hereford who were hoping to convert Ledbury into a collegiate church and this would have served as their chapter House. Another suggestion is that it may have been intended as a shrine to Katharine Audley who was a cousin of Edward II and lived in a village near Ledbury. She became an anchoress, devoting her life and wealth to those in need. There are various local legends about her. She was never canonised, but is often referred to as the patron saint of Ledbury.

Today the room is used as a meeting room and by the Sunday School.

THE CHANCEL

The chancel is the oldest part of the church and still has its round Norman arches and windows above, which gave extra light. The organ daters from 1820 and was moved here in 1863 when the gallery was removed. There is a small squint tucked away between the organ and the altar rail.

Two of the original choir stalls with their misericords can be seen in the chancel.

The reredos above the altar is a C19th copy of the Last Supper, painted by a local artist.

The east window is by CE Kempe although there are bits of C15th glass at the top.

Above the east window near the roof is a small red window believed to have been inserted at the time of the Reformation when it was forbidden to have hanging red sanctuary lamps. This can be seen if you know exactly where to stand - centrally at the front of the nave. (I didn’t succeed...)

On the south wall is the splendid C17th Skynner family tomb with the kneeling figures of Edward d1631 and Elizabeth d 1628. Edward was one of the wealthy merchants who played an important role in the development of Ledbury as a thriving wool town. Lying between them is their tiny baby who died young. On the base are the kneeling figures of their ten surviving children. One of the daughter is hoilding a skull, indicating she died before her parents.

On the floor next to the Skynner family tomb is a lovely alabaster effigy of John Hamilton Martin who died as a baby in 1851. Above are two angels. This was the work of Thomas and Mary Thornycroft and was shown at the Great Exhibition of 1851.

On the wall near the altar is a memorial to John Hoskins, looking out from under a draped canopy. He was Vicar of Ledbury and died in 1631.

This is a large church, reflecting the importance of Ledbury when it was built. It is open daily and well worth visiting.