West Midlands Lichfield - its Cathedral and the hospital of St John without the Barrs, Staffordshire

Lichfield is an attractive town with a pedestrianised shopping area with small shops and eateries. The majority of the buildings are brick, but there is some Tudor timber frame as well as early C20th timber frame buildings. Beacon Park is a lovely place with grass, formal flower beds and a small fountain. In the centre of the town is Minster Pool dating from the 11thC when a boggy stream was dammed to provide water for a small mill. Now it is popular with the locals going to feed the ducks.

St Mary’s church with its tall spire, is a 19thC building on an older site. It is now a multi use arts and heritage centre. For those wanting more culture, there is the Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum and Erasmus Darwin House.

Lichfield Cathedral - some background

With its three spires, this is affectionately called the Ladies of the Vale.

It is worth walking round the Close, one of the best preserved in England, for views of the outside of the cathedral. The Bishop’s Palace is now the Cathedral School.

There has been a holy site here since the martyrdoms of Christians during Roman Times. St Chad moved his See from Repton to Lichfield in 669 and the first cathedral was built around 700AD to house the bones of St Chad. The original wooden Saxon church was replaced by a Norman building in the C11th and the present Gothic Cathedral was begun 1195 as the cathedral had become a major pilgrimage site. It took over a hundred years to build. The choir dates from1220 and the transepts 1220-40. The octagonal chapter house was finished in 1249 and work on rebuilding he nave began in 1260. The Lady Chapel was the last to be built and eventually finished in 1330.

The cathedral was surrounded by a ditch and defensive walls although little remains of these.

The Close was fortified during the Civil War as the cathedral authorities supported the King while the townsfolk sided with Parliament. It was the scene of fierce fighting and cathedral sustained considerable damage. The central spire was demolished, roofs ruined and medieval glass smashed. Restoration began in 1660 and it took until the C19th before the building was completely restored. The C15th library was pulled down as it was deemed to be unsafe. The books were moved to the chapter house.

There was a massive restoration in the C19th led by Sir George Gilbert Scott, including the West Front when over one hundred damaged or badly eroded statues were replaced.

The central spire was rebuilt in the 1950s and the Close paved.

St Michael’s Chapel was redesigned as a military chapel of the Staffordshire Regiment.

The Cathedral is the most amazing building from the outside with its three spires rising to the sky from square towers. There is so much detail with every surface carved, it is almost impossible to describe.

The Chancel and Lady Chapel are as long, if not longer than the nave and have flying buttresses from the side aisle to the clerestory roof. On the outside of the south wall are remains of wall tombs, set under carved ogee arches with a triangular top. The side aisles are buttressed with carved statues and there is a low open carved battlement round the top of the chancel with crocketed (nobbly) pinnacles. The nave has massive buttresses with more flying buttresses to the clerestory with pinnacles along the top.

There is a highly carved south doorway with steps leading up to two blind arches on either side and carved figures of saints in the arches above.

To the left of the doorway is a large and now quite eroded statue of Charles II which originally stood on top of an ornamental gable between the two spires.

The west towers are a mass of carved detail with blind arches, crocketed pinnacles and tall towers. The west front is covered with carvings of bishops, kings and saints. All have their names carved beneath them, but you need binoculars to read them.

There is a central doorway with smaller doorways on either side, all highly carved. The tympanum above the main door has a carved image of Christ in Majesty. Above the central window is a statue of Christ giving the blessing with a small cross above.

The north door has a double doorway with carved arches and statues of the Virgin and child and also of St Chad.

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[Eleanor]

Litchfield Cathedral cont.... the inside

The outside of the cathedral impresses with all its detail. The inside is equally impressive for its starker simplicity.

The nave is a masterpiece of Decorated Gothic with multangular pillars rising to the clerestory with its smaller carved arches. Long pillars continue up to the vaulted ceiling This had originally been stone like the side aisles, but so much stone had been used in the construction, the side walls were beginning to bow out under the weight. During the C19th restoration, 200-300 tons of stone were removed and the present plaster ceiling with stone ribs was added.

The side aisles have blind arcading along the bottom of the walls with brass and marble memorials above and C19th stained glass windows.

At the end of the nave is a modern altar on a grey and white marble plinth. The Lichfield Angel was discovered under the floor here in 2003.

There is a very delicate and beautiful open metal work screen separating the choir and nave which has painted flowers and gilded angels. These represent the angels who came to play and sing to St Chad. The pulpit is similar open metal work.

The south transept contains military memorials and books of remembrance for both world wars. The huge memorial with flags and sphinx commemorates officers, non-commissioned officers and soldiers of the 80th Regiment of Foot of the Staffordshire Volunteers who fell in the Sutley Campaign in 1845 & 1846.

The south aisle along the choir is lined with tombs of bishops.

A wooden door leads to the Consistory Court which contains a small treasury with church plate from the C17th, pastoral staffs and a bishop’s crozier set with semi-precious stones.

Next to it, steps lead up to St Chad’s Head Chapel. His skull was kept here and could be displayed to pilgrims from the stone balcony outside the chapel. (His bones were lost in 1540 during the Reformation). It is a small chapel with an altar with an embroidered front in white and gold with two angels holding a bishop’s mitre. The stone retable has gilded pinnacles and a carving of Christ crucified with the Virgin Mary and St John on either side. Below are angels holding monogrammed shields.

It has a C E Kempe stained glass window.

In the south aisle along the side of the choir is the remains of a C14th wall painting of the Holy Trinity. In the centre is God the Father although only his head and feet are left. He is holding Christ and we could just see his legs. The dove representing the Holy Spirit has been lost. On either side are angles holding censors. Below is Bishop Langton’s tomb.

The Choir is one of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral with vaulted ceiling, arcade with carved statues under crocheted pinnacles with angels at their base. The tiled floor with images of kings and bishops. Choir stalls have the names of the occupants inscribed along the top and painted shields along their backs and there is a splendid wooden bishop’s chair with a high back and a canopy.

The high altar has a gold and scarlet front piece. Behind is a beautiful marble reredos with different coloured marble pillars with pointed arches covered with crocketed pinnacles. This was made from the medieval screen which stood at the entrance to the Lady Chapel. In the centre is Christ in Majesty set in an arch of semi-precious stones, with statues on either side and winged angels below.

The rear of the reredos has a carving of the Virgin Mary praying. St Chad’s shrine once stood here.

The Lady Chapel is behind the choir with C16th Flemish glass from Herckenrode Abbey which has been carefully restored and cleaned.

The altar has the most amazing triptych with a carved central panel of the Virgin Mary and Christ Child in the centre. Around it are images of the nativity, including the annunciation and the adoration of the Magi.The doors have painted blue and gold panels with saints and a bishop.

The north aisle has a marble reredos on the wall with a crucifix carved on it. In front is a bank of candles.

The passageway to the Chapter House leads off the north aisle and is a unique example of a medieval pedilavium where, following the example of Jesus at the Last Supper, the bishop and clergy washed the feet of the poor and pilgrims to the cathedral on Maundy Thursday. This has an open arcade of double pillars along the west wall with either heads or foliage between the arches. Along the base is a stone seat with red cushions.

The octagonal Chapter House has blank arcading round the walls with heads or foliage and a bench round the base. A central pillar with a carved capital supports the stone vaulted ceiling. Above the doorway is the remains of a C14th wall painting depicting the Assumption of the Virgin with a small figure of God the Father at the top and angels around the Virgin.

The Lichfield Gospels, also known as St Chad’s Gospels, are displayed here. They are thought to date from 689-800 and have been in Lichfield since the C11th. No one knows where they were written or who wrote them. We were disappointed as it was open at two pages of script with no illustrations. There is a computer screen with more pages form the gospel.

The other treasure is the Lichfield Angel. This is an C8th carved limestone panel which was originally part of a chest thought to contain the relics of St Chad. It is thought to be Gabriel and be half of the annunciation scene.

There are two display cases with pieces from the Staffordshire Hoard, discovered in a field near Lichfield in 2009 and the largest hoard of Anglo-Saxon gold and silver metalwork found. It is thought to be C7th or C8thC The collection displayed here is mainly gold sword hilt fittings. The beautiful cross set with red semi-precious stones is a replica.

 

[Eleanor]

Hospital of St John without the Barrs

Lichfield Cathedral was a popular place of pilgrimage as the remains of St Chad were buried there. A new cathedral was built in the C12th with a fortified close with a defensive ditch and rampart. There were four gates or ‘barrs’ which were closed at night. This presented problems to pilgrims who arrived after the barrs were closed. A priory dedicated to St John the Baptist was built just outside the south gate which provided food and shelter for travellers arriving late at night.

This had a chapel and a long accommodation block for the Augustinian Canons.

By the C15th, the fortifications were no longer needed and the gates were left open. There was no need for overnight accommodation for pilgrims, and the priory was refounded as a hospital for ‘aged men’. It was ordained in the statutes that there should be “thirteen honest poor men upon whom the inconveniences of old age and poverty without any fault of their own, had fallen”. In addition to their lodging the men would receive 7d a week. They were to be honest and devout and attend prayers every day. There was to be a Master in Holy Orders appointed by the Bishop.

The distinctive eight chimneys fronting St John’s Street date back to this period. Each resident had his own room and fireplace. The canons’ and pilgrims’ hall next to the chapel, was enlarged as a house for the master and a new wing was added. A school was also provided.

The building still provides sheltered housing managed by a body of Trustees. The chapel is open daily for private prayer and quiet reflection.

The building is an attractive brick building fronting on St John Street. An archway in the centre leads to a grassy courtyard.

The Chapel is on the right. It is a small stone building with a small bell cot above the north aisle. The Chapel dates from the C12th but was in a ruinous condition by the C17th. The north aisle was added in 1829 and there was a major restoration in 1870.

As soon as you walk through the door, there is a strong smell of incense. A wood screen separates the entry porch from the church.

Eyes are immediately drawn to the east window representing Christ in Majesty. The figure of Christ stands in the centre surrounded by blue glass with green angels at the base and the signs of the four evangelists at the corners. The window dates from 1984 and is the work of John Piper who was responsible for the baptistry window in Coventry Cathedral.

Below is a modern wood altar with a wooden reredos picked out in gold. In the centre is a modern portrait of Christ, holding a cross. On the side of the chancel are three old choir stalls.

Pillars and pointed arches separate nave and north aisle. Walls are whitewashed and there is a lovely wood beam roof which was part of the 1870 restoration. The pews in the nave have carefully carved tops (poppy heads). At the end of the north aisle are abstract religious paintings in shades of brown. There are two old wooden chests and a small stone font.

On the north wall are the Stations of the Cross.

There is a small prie dieu below a wall plaque with the Virgin Mary and Christ Child surrounded by garlands of flowers and gilded cherub heads at the base.

At the back of the church are two rather nice C19th stained glass windows in sheds of grey with splashes of colour on the figures. On the south side there are representations of John the Baptist and St George. On the left are St Philip and W.Smith, Bishop.

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