Planning a trip to Menton or Antibes, Provence

[Pauline]

I have been thrashing about trying to plan a trip for Steve's big birthday in late October. We will leave mid October for two weeks somewhere special.

I want to go to Italy (a week in Amalfi to do the hikes we didn't get to in May and a week in Spoleto where we were last September), but Steve probably wants to go to France and we haven't been there since - - - I can't remember! Last year or the year before.

We have never been to Menton. I remember Marta from ST posting about her trip there years ago and it sounded very nice. We could spend two weeks there and do day trips into Italy (San Remo!) and into the mountains (Eze, Vence, north of Menton). Maybe do some hiking in the mountain towns above Menton.

The Easy Hiker website has several posts about Menton.

My theory is that we might get good weather even in late October. It would not be as crowded as high season. No cruise ships come to Menton. It is close to Italy so I could get my Italy fix but Steve could speak French. We have been to Nice and were in Monaco 25 years ago (did not like it - too built up), but have never been to this area.

Any advice? Recommendations for other places to consider? Good vacation rentals in Menton?

 

[Lisa in Ottawa]

We went there on an overnight break when we were in Nice for 5 weeks. I remember it as being quite attractive especially the old town. We were there in March and I don't recall it being crowded. I guess if you had a car and planned different trips it would be a good base. While I liked Menton, it didn't strike me as somewhere I'd want to base myself for 2 weeks. But we didn't have a car and it was still a little too early in the season to go hiking in the mountains. It sounds like it might suit your needs. Close to Italy and France.

I just looked at the easy hiker website with pics of Menton. Brought back memories. It is quite pretty with a nice market. I went to the gardens also. It's a good size without being too big or too small. I don't know about the prettiest town in France but still quite lovely.

 

[Chris]

I haven't been to Menton, but it sure seems like it might be a great place for you. There must be lots of hiking in those mountains When I was in Eze last year and taking the bus up to the base of the village and then down to the train station I remember thinking that Pauline and Steve would walk up and down those hills.

 

[Cameron]

I have been on a day trip only. Liked the Old Town and views of the water. I do remember the main area (coming off the train) to be modernized and there was a casino, but that didn't bother me. Palm trees, lemon trees. I think it's supposed to be very sunny most of the year.

We liked it well enough that I bookmarked a few rentals, but never stayed there:

Seaside view:
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p71721

The link is broken to the one I'd bookmarked for the Old Town.

 

[Marta]

Let me check around with my links. I loved the old town and I was there first week in October and the weather was good. We moved on to Provence the following week and we noticed that the weather got a little more poor as it got later in the month. Easy Hiker has had some great posts. It is pretty steep going up from Provence.

Also look at posts from Kathy. She was there for a while. I think she stayed up in Saint Agnes. Menton Daily Photo also has some good information or at least good photos.

It is hard to find a place to rent in the old town. The other area of the town is pretty modern so if you can - do try to find something there.

 

[Marta]

I'm going to have to look for my paper notes. Yes - it has been that long! (2007) I don't have any bookmarks specifically for Menton. I looked a little out on Homeaway - the one I liked is booked. I did find a link for the GR-51 up from Menton and along the Riviera. It is definitely steep going from Menton to Ste Agnes. The drive alone is one of the more treacherous drives. I learned to honk at the curves driving around in this area and the rest of the hinterlands above Nice. EasyHiker has some great info - I follow them also and have been enjoying the posts from the Italian Riviera. We went to the gardens at Hansbury and up to the little town of Apicale. Mostly we drove although I have hiked a little in the area - mostly more around the little town of Peillon.

Menton itself has several different areas that you'll see listed on the rentals, Vieux Menton is the old town- very small narrow walkways. The buildings are old so the rentals are not necessarily very good. Going west from Vieux Menton is the pedestrian area which has the restaurants shops, market. And along the beach is the older hotels and apartments more from the turn of the century. At the end of the section is the Casino. Going in from the sea along the park (Jardins Bioves) the road leads up to the Train Station that Cameron mentions and continuing west along the seaside are more modern apartments. There is also a large Pierre et Vacances unit in this area. Going east view Vieux Menton is the port and the border with Italy. Up behind the port is the area called Garavan. This is were two of the gardens are located and more quiet and residential. One stunning house up there is actually for rent.

Parking was a little challenging. The woman who owned the apartment I rented told us where to park on this dead end street that was a short walk. We had a couple of nervous turns around the street but usually did find something - otherwise there was paid parking lot at the port. I would definitely inquire regarding parking - it is like Nice.

I also really liked the Maritime Alps area just north of this area in Parc Mercantour for hiking but I think it will be too late in the year. Most of the refuges close end of September.

 

[Wendy Ashworth]

Hi Pauline,
When we visit the Cote D'Azur we stay in Roquebrune Cap Martin.

It's a delightful medieval village and not to be confused with the modern town on the coast. It sits high above the coast with lovely views over the Baie des Anges. Unfortunately though the accommodation we used is no longer a rental property.

Menton as others have said is not particularly attractive except for the old town. We enjoy exactly what Marta has written, visiting Apricale, Dolce Aqua and the Villa Hanbury over the border as well getting up to the Alpes Maritime where there are more rewarding villages like Pont du Loup.

My worry is that the days will be short by late Oct. The weather might be good for hiking and after all, us Brits used to winter on the Italian Riviera to escape our own horrid winters but of course you have no control over that.

I will search my own records as we haven't been for a good few years now.

 

[Pauline]

@Marta is this where you went to a language school? I remember you posting about it on ST or your blog. That is why I was thinking of Menton.

@Chris earlier suggested Antibes to me.

@Wendy Ashworth that is a good point, the days will be short.

25+ years ago we visited Monaco on a day trip from Nice and I remember not liking all the high rises. Some photos of Menton kind of look like that.

Argh! Don't like that parking is difficult or that the roads to towns above are so freaky. It seems that I just don't know what I am looking for!

Thanks for the accommodation links!

 

[Wendy Ashworth]

@Marta is this where you went to a language school? I remember you posting about it on ST or your blog. That is why I was thinking of Menton.

@Chris earlier suggested Antibes to me.

@Wendy Ashworth that is a good point, the days will be short.

25+ years ago we visited Monaco on a day trip from Nice and I remember not liking all the high rises. Some photos of Menton kind of look like that.

Argh! Don't like that parking is difficult or that the roads to towns above are so freaky. It seems that I just don't know what I am looking for!

Thanks for the accommodation links!

It's a rewarding area Pauline and the French will make you very welcome after the recents horrors.
We visited first when Lawrence Johnstons garden " La Serre de Madone " was first being restored so that was a thrill although the charity had since lost it's way somewhat.
You might like Villefranche as a base but again it's a hill town with problems for cars.

 

[Marta]

I was in Villefranche for the school. I was there for 4 weeks and then spent 1 week in Menton. I like Villefranche a little better than Menton but it is the Cruise Ship Port and extremely hilly. The plus side - they really are welcoming to travelers between the school and the cruise lines. We went to Menton mainly for the gardens and history. There are 3-4 gardens and it was 'the' resort for Russians and British at the turn of 1900's.

You can probably find more rentals in Villefranche and better parking. I would also consider Antibes. I have not been there but many people who love the Riviera love it. But it will be more like Nice which I know you have visited. Villefranche is also. Menton is slightly more Italian. I am intrigued with the Italian Riviera near France. It is quite a bit more sleepy so it may be somewhat closed up by end of October. It is getting late even for the Riviera.

The short days are so tough. I remember it getting dark towards 6pm even in mid-October. Late in October - I think a bit farther south. Other options - Barcelona? Sicily? Or maybe even something a bit more unusual - Maderia or Canary Islands.

 

[Marta]

Menton is not like Monaco. Yes - it is a destination vacation but not as many highrises - let alone the affluence. I wasn't turned off by Monaco. The garden is wonderful and I enjoyed the old town. The casino area was fun just to experience it. I did not get to Roquebrune Cap Martin other than a ride through on the bus.

 

[Cameron]

Since Antibes was mentioned, it is my favorite village on the coast with a train station to easily zip to Nice, Menton, Cannes, Villefranche, etc.

The Provençal market is great.
The restaurants are more Italian than French. Lots of pizza, pasta, etc. Enough restaurants to keep it interesting, but can also train to another village for lunch or dinner.

There are several sandy beaches, one at the harbor at Vieux Antibes is great for picnics (there is a street-window gourmet sandwich shop in Vieux, on the way to the harbor, that we used). The modern beaches have a very nice, wide promenade with benches for sitting and watching the boats.

Easy, but lengthy walk out to Cap d'Antibes. I think there is a bus, but we always walked. The restaurants at Plage de la Garoupe will be on a seasonal schedule. The coastal sentiers around the Cap is very nice, but can be dangerous if the waves are fierce. Otherwise, it is a well-used path with steps and cables, but at the far side you'll need sturdy shoes to walk across uneven large rocks. At that end, you can walk up to the streets to return.

I can recommend renting apartments from Michelle Bush - apartments in Antibes. My late husband preferred Cap View, on the edge of the Vieux and modern Antibes for the ocean view. The balcony had a good view (at that time---an apartment building may by now have changed part of it) of the sea. That apartment was fairly modern, but her apartments in Vieux are charming.

I can also recommend renting a large apartment, if needed -- Maison Gioanni was a great apartment mixed with modern conveniences in old architecture. Valerie Duffor, is also a great manager. That apartment is in Vieux, across from the Gendarmarie, but a few blocks away from the modern section with good groceries if you can't find everything at the market.

We rented a car one time and found we didn't need it (due to train) and parking is difficult. Other times, we used the train, then rented a car only for a day to drive the Grand Corniche, etc. When we stayed in Mougins one year, we did all the car-required driving in the hill villages.

There are ferries from Cannes out to the islands (may be seasonal) that are fun.
The only other reason to visit Cannes is the interesting antiques market. We were in Antibes twice during the Cannes Film Festival and went over to see the festivities.

 

[Chris]

I really liked Antibes and these apartmetns look great - thanks!

 

[Pauline]

Since my choice of Menton was based on a false memory of @Marta 's trip, I am now leaning towards Antibes. @Cameron those apartments look great!

We could fly into Nice and get a taxi or train to Antibes and maybe do without a car, or have a car for part of the time. Now I have to talk Steve into it!

 

[Chris]

I think Antibes is a great choice! Antibes is just about as close to the Nice Airport as Nice is, just the other direction. If you're planning on spending lots of time going inland to the mountains, you might want a car (buses are very slow). Otherwise, it's easy to use trains and buses along the coast.

 

[Pauline]

Now I have to look into hiking from Antibes.

 

[Cameron]

When this book was published, I bought it for our hikes. I communicated with the author a few times. These hikes require a car as most are west of Cannes. One of our favorite hikes was the St Tropez coastal path. In off-season, there shouldn't be the traffic jam going into the village. But, it required catching a bus back to the village, and I'm not sure it's available in off-season. The schedule, even in May, was a bit unreliable, even after checking it at the tourist office.

Regarding arrival at the Nice Airport, there is a train station, Nice-Saint-Augustine, within walking distance, but it's a very small station that has odd hours as there seemed to be only one ticket agent. It requires a bit of a walk to get there. The apartments I've listed are downhill from the Antibes train station! I recommend a taxi.

When we'd go to Paris after Antibes, we took the TGV (booked the quiet car through iDTGV). Around 5.5 hours, if I remember. We packed a picnic for the train. It was a nice trip.

I blogged our 2008 trip, when we stayed in Mougins for 7 days. Nice village for a quick visit, but requires much travel when using it as a base. http://tourfrenchriviera.blogspot.com I didn't blog the Antibes trips. Quite frankly, this is the first time I've linked to our favorite apartments because my late husband was concerned that with so few available in Antibes, our choices would be booked!

 

[Jeff Green]

I've never been to france (menton even more specifically) but i would love to go there with the family some day, would be a awesome memory to keep ahold of. Especially if i were to propose at the top of the eiffel tower :O

 

[Pauline]

Especially if i were to propose at the top of the eiffel tower :O

I can think of more romantic places in Paris to propose. For the Eiffel Tower you have to line up to get in and will be with a lot of people up there. How about proposing over a picnic in one of the lovely parks? Or during an evening stroll along the river?

 

[Pauline]

... I can recommend renting apartments from Michelle Bush - apartments in Antibes. My late husband preferred Cap View, on the edge of the Vieux and modern Antibes for the ocean view. The balcony had a good view (at that time---an apartment building may by now have changed part of it) of the sea. That apartment was fairly modern, but her apartments in Vieux are charming.

I can also recommend renting a large apartment, if needed -- Maison Gioanni was a great apartment mixed with modern conveniences in old architecture. Valerie Duffor, is also a great manager. That apartment is in Vieux, across from the Gendarmarie, but a few blocks away from the modern section with good groceries if you can't find everything at the market. ...

@Cameron Have you stayed in Maison Gioanni? It looks lovely, but there are no photos of the balcony. I found the building and balcony on Google Street View - a long narrow balcony over the street. No views - except of street and police station. Nice looking building and the apartment is very nice inside. Also a queen sized bed and it says "low allergen enviornment" which might mean they use more natural things for cleaning, etc. But would the nearby police department create noise? And it is bigger than we need, so more expensive to the others (but only if the others are at the off season rate which they may not be).

Of the Apartments in Antibes, the Cap View is available and looks nice, but it is 3rd floor and no elevator is mentioned. It looks to be in a quieter part of town and the views of the water are great. Carousel is available but is in too much of a shopping area I think (with a perfume store nearby - we both dislike perfume, so that would be annoying). Market looks interesting but I think it might be very small (the sofa is almost in the kitchen) and perhaps in too busy of an area. (I am hard to please - I want to be near cafes and shops, but not on top of them.)

@Cameron can you tell me a bit more about Cap View?

Riviera Pebbles has a larger looking apartment near the Market - Picasso - but it is booked for part of time we would be there and has no balcony.

It is a 50 minute drive from Antibes to Menton (probably double that in reality considering parking, etc), but only 1hr 6min from Antibes to San Remo in Italy (because you stay on the Autoroute most of the way). I was thinking a week in Antibes then a week in Menton or even San Remo. Not sure about this. We might not have a car in Menton and do as @Cameron suggested and get one just for a few days.

I like to look at the populations of the places I am considering to compare to each other and other places I have stayed.
NICE pop 340,000
ANTIBES pop 76,000
MENTON 28,000
SAN REMO pop 56,000
UZES pop 8,000
AIX pop 141,000
NIMES pop 142,000