Planning mid-October Trip to Florence area (need some suggestions please)

[ESR-MI]

So we have a week long trip to Italy coming up in October... our daughter will be attending school in the Florence area for a few months, and we will be meeting her there. Would like to get some input from the folks here on the forum so I can start getting things planned/booked.

First - we would definitely like to experience Italy for itself.. and avoid as much 'touristy' stuff as possible (I'm sure there are probably a few things we should still try to see regardless). A good mix of charm, and some fun too.

• We will be flying into Rome, arriving late morning, and figured it would be good to stay that day and maybe the next before taking the train to Florence
  • Place to stay?
  • Best things to check out?
• Once we make our way to the Florence area, we would like to split the time up and do some wine-time and maybe check out something on the coast
  • Starting in Florence - maybe just a day or so
    • Place to stay?
    • Best areas to experience?
  • The Montepulciano area was one thought for an overnight trip
    • Place to stay?
    • Vineyards to check out or other things to experience?
  • Quick coastal area (day trip) if it make sense
    • Best town/area to check out?
  • Last few days in Florence
    • Place to stay?
    • Things we must see/do before we leave?
• Flying out of Florence

A few other questions:

• Does it make more sense to:
  • Rent a car in Rome and drive to Florence and the other areas we want to see?
  • Train from Rome to Florence, then rent a car there for our excursions?
  • Train everywhere instead of renting a car?

We are excited for this trip - so looking forward to seeing what ideas and suggestions this group has to offer!

 

[Ian Sutton]

Montepulciano pleasant for sure, touristy but not overtly so.

I think Politian apartments stopped letting apartments out, which is a shame as they were lovely and the owner came across as very genuine (including his apology for no television, because he was embarrassed by the output). Still worth a search for them though, as I may be wrong.

Train not great for Montepulciano (and indeed much of Tuscany). If getting the train to Montepulciano, head to Chiusi-Chinciano terme, as it has a frequent bus service (and more trains), rather than Stazione Montepulciano. The bus runs around the hill, so either wait for the bus station if at that end of the town (or wanting a longer but gentler walk up to lodgings), or get off earlier for a short, sharp climb to the older part of the town.

Winetasting is easy, with (unusually for Italy) plenty of drop-in tasting rooms, though even for these, making a booking can make for a more pleasing experience. Favourites that don't get much mention by critics - Crociani who have a tasting room in the town, and Daviddi who are out near Stazione Montepulciano and who usually carry back vintages (and their wines age very well).

Food was a mixed bag, from a somewhat surreal opera singing owner (I forget the place), to a pleasingly humdrum Osteria del Conte. Favourite place was a surprise though. Opposite the temple of san biagio is a place called La Grotta (the cave), and I'd assumed it would be a minor tourist trap. Instead great food and impeccable service awaited us. The walk back up the long and straight (and moderately steep) hill gives every excuse to indulge a dessert.

 

[ESR-MI]

Montepulciano pleasant for sure, touristy but not overtly so.

I think Politian apartments stopped letting apartments out, which is a shame as they were lovely and the owner came across as very genuine (including his apology for no television, because he was embarrassed by the output). Still worth a search for them though, as I may be wrong.

Train not great for Montepulciano (and indeed much of Tuscany). If getting the train to Montepulciano, head to Chiusi-Chinciano terme, as it has a frequent bus service (and more trains), rather than Stazione Montepulciano. The bus runs around the hill, so either wait for the bus station if at that end of the town (or wanting a longer but gentler walk up to lodgings), or get off earlier for a short, sharp climb to the older part of the town.

Winetasting is easy, with (unusually for Italy) plenty of drop-in tasting rooms, though even for these, making a booking can make for a more pleasing experience. Favourites that don't get much mention by critics - Crociani who have a tasting room in the town, and Daviddi who are out near Stazione Montepulciano and who usually carry back vintages (and their wines age very well).

Food was a mixed bag, from a somewhat surreal opera singing owner (I forget the place), to a pleasingly humdrum Osteria del Conte. Favourite place was a surprise though. Opposite the temple of san biagio is a place called La Grotta (the cave), and I'd assumed it would be a minor tourist trap. Instead great food and impeccable service awaited us. The walk back up the long and straight (and moderately steep) hill gives every excuse to indulge a dessert.

Thanks @Ian Sutton! If there are other/better areas to visit besides Montepulciano - I'm all ears. Picked that just because its our go-to for dinners out... but I know there are other great Italian reds around the Florence area.

 

[FrankNatoli]

Everyone knows to visit Uffizi Gallery, but two suggestions in that regard.
One, get tickets online in advance.
Two, consider also visiting Corridoio Vasariano [Vasari Corridor] which is connected to Uffizi.
On our last visit to Firenze, it was scheduled to be reopened in a few weeks but we sadly missed it.
Highly recommend a stop at the Cappelle Medicee [Medici Chapels] with the tombs sculpted by Michelangelo.
If possible, in advance, get tickets to Michelangelo's Stanza Segreta [secret room], which is connected to Cappelle Medicee.
Tickets are almost impossible to get, and we could not get them.
An excellent but inexpensive restaurant recommendation is Trattoria Zà Zà not far from the railway station and close to Mercato Centrale [worth a visit in its own right].
A somewhat more expensive but still reasonable restaurant is Il Grande Nuti Trattoria on Borgo San Lorenzo, not far from Cappelle Medicee.
For the ultimate panoramic view of Firenze, climb to the top of Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore but again get tickets for ascent to the cupola in advance.
You need to be in reasonably good shape to make the stone stairs to the cupola.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Thanks @Ian Sutton! If there are other/better areas to visit besides Montepulciano - I'm all ears. Picked that just because its our go-to for dinners out... but I know there are other great Italian reds around the Florence area.

There may be, but for me it was a lovely place. As for the reds, I prefer Vino Nobile to Brunello, which is handy as the pricing is very much the other way round.

One surprise for us was a place we day-tripped to from Siena - Colle val d'Elsa. Charming and yet seemingly ignored by most tourists.

 

[ESR-MI]

Everyone knows to visit Uffizi Gallery, but two suggestions in that regard.
One, get tickets online in advance.
Two, consider also visiting Corridoio Vasariano [Vasari Corridor] which is connected to Uffizi.
On our last visit to Firenze, it was scheduled to be reopened in a few weeks but we sadly missed it.
Highly recommend a stop at the Cappelle Medicee [Medici Chapels] with the tombs sculpted by Michelangelo.
If possible, in advance, get tickets to Michelangelo's Stanza Segreta [secret room], which is connected to Cappelle Medicee.
Tickets are almost impossible to get, and we could not get them.
An excellent but inexpensive restaurant recommendation is Trattoria Zà Zà not far from the railway station and close to Mercato Centrale [worth a visit in its own right].
A somewhat more expensive but still reasonable restaurant is Il Grande Nuti Trattoria on Borgo San Lorenzo, not far from Cappelle Medicee.
For the ultimate panoramic view of Firenze, climb to the top of Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore but again get tickets for ascent to the cupola in advance.
You need to be in reasonably good shape to make the stone stairs to the cupola.

@FrankNatoli - Thank you for the suggestions (and pointers on getting tickets)! I took a look at a lot of these on the map/pictures and am already excited for this trip. Any thoughts on some good areas to just walk around and explore in Florence?

 

[ESR-MI]

On the topic of getting out to the coast during this trip - I see that Livorno appears to be the most direct run from Florence to the coast, but have seen on this forum where its not the best option (crowds and other reasons). Any other suggestions for neat coastal towns to experience either North or South of that that we should target? Or if there are other towns to visit that make skipping the coastal trip altogether make sense, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

 

[Penn251]

Not sure what experience you want on the coast in Mid-October. Easy "beach" towns that can be reached by train from Florence are Viareggio and Forte Dei Marmi. Forte Dei Marmi is decidedly upscale (but beachy relaxed atmosphere), with boutique shopping, nice restaurants and a picturesque marina.

As far as other town suggestions, Lucca is always near and dear to my heart. It has a lot to offer and is worth a visit, especially if you have never been. The Internationally famous Comic and Games festival will be there October 28-November 1. That in itself is an amazing spectacle and transforms the historic center into a fantasy world. The juxtaposition of old, fantastical and future is quite something to behold. Lucca is exceptionally crowded that weekend so if you are looking to see Lucca as its normal self (which is wonderful), I would go before that starts.

Here is a link to my short version of what there is to do in Lucca. https://www.sloweurope.com/community/threads/lucca-october-2025.7997/post-48868

 

[Ian Sutton]

On the topic of getting out to the coast during this trip - I see that Livorno appears to be the most direct run from Florence to the coast, but have seen on this forum where its not the best option (crowds and other reasons). Any other suggestions for neat coastal towns to experience either North or South of that that we should target? Or if there are other towns to visit that make skipping the coastal trip altogether make sense, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

Livorno a functional port city. They can still have charm (and superb seafood), but it doesn't sound like what you're looking for.

Avoiding tourists counts Cinque Terre out, but near to that Porto Venere isn't as swamped, and is rather charming. It's a bus or ferry from La Spezia.

 

[BEERMAN]

Couple years ago, we enjoyed a trip where our itinerary was planned on the fly. We looked at Livorno etc, but for no particular reason we chose San Vincenzo. Spent time in Piombino and amazing Populonia. You can read about our quick stopover to that area if this link works......

2023, Spring in Northern Italy - Florence, Tuscany, Liguria, Piedmont, Lake Orta

Pienza is lovely. There is a little leather shop on Via San Andrea that I'm fond of. Just outside of town on the road to Sinalunga is a fantastic, and reasonably priced iron works fabrica that is well worth a visit. I went with friends who were decorating their new home and it was fantastic...

www.sloweurope.com

 

[Penn251]

Spent time in Piombino and amazing Populonia

A little further afield from Florence but excellent choices, Anywhere along the Gulf of Baratti will be beautiful. The Etruscan coast is relatively unspolied with some picturesque beaches. You can get to Elba from Piombino if that interests you.

 

[ESR-MI]

Couple years ago, we enjoyed a trip where our itinerary was planned on the fly. We looked at Livorno etc, but for no particular reason we chose San Vincenzo. Spent time in Piombino and amazing Populonia. You can read about our quick stopover to that area if this link works......

2023, Spring in Northern Italy - Florence, Tuscany, Liguria, Piedmont, Lake Orta

Pienza is lovely. There is a little leather shop on Via San Andrea that I'm fond of. Just outside of town on the road to Sinalunga is a fantastic, and reasonably priced iron works fabrica that is well worth a visit. I went with friends who were decorating their new home and it was fantastic...

www.sloweurope.com

Great trip report and pictures! I'm still working my way through it (on Day#3 currently) and October cant come fast enough.

 

[FrankNatoli]

@FrankNatoli - Thank you for the suggestions (and pointers on getting tickets)! I took a look at a lot of these on the map/pictures and am already excited for this trip. Any thoughts on some good areas to just walk around and explore in Florence?

If you start at the railway station, my suggestions for a line in the following order: Trattoria Zà Zà and Mercato Centrale, Cappelle Medicee and Michelangelo Stanza Segreta, Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, Piazza della Signoria, Uffizzi Gallery and Corridoio Vasariano and Ponte Vecchio.
Some modest distance east of Uffizzi is Casa Buonarroti, a modest museum which contains some of Michelangelo's earliest works, including my favorite, Madonna della Scala, which he sculpted when he was 15 years old, and also the Battle of the Centaurs.

 

[NoSpin]

• Rent a car in Rome and drive to Florence and the other areas we want to see?

We are excited for this trip - so looking forward to seeing what ideas and suggestions this group has to offer!

This is what I would do, but driving in Italy is not for everybody. Depending where you are staying in Florence, like many cities and towns, it has a ZTL. If you are staying at a hotel in the ZTL, they can register your plate with the police and you are all set.

Driving can save you a lot of time. Plus you can go where you want, when you want, and stay or leave whenever you want. Be aware there can be issues with damage and insurance with rental cars. An alternative is hire a driver for your day trips. Obviously it is more money, but if you can afford it, it is absolutely stress free.

 

[FrankNatoli]

If you are staying at a hotel in the ZTL, they can register your plate with the police and you are all set.

Sometimes.
Our Bellagio hotel did that for us.
Our Verona hotel this fall promises to do that for us.
But our hotel in Rome said that was not possible.
Check with the hotel before bringing the car to the hotel in the ZTL.

 

[Cda]

If first time in Florence

Statue of David, both of them

Golf cart tour of the city

Exelentia

 

[GailS]

I'd agree with NoSpin that a car for excursions gives a lot of flexibility. Another parking option if you don't want to drive into Florence city center is to park in one of the lots on the outskirts. Last trip we rented a car for a couple of days and parked it overnight in the Parcheggio del Piazzale di Porta Romana which is outside the ZTL and has easy access in/out of the city. We were staying in an apartment in the Oltrarno near the Ponte Vecchio without parking so this was an easy option.

One thing to think about, moving locations where you are staying burns a lot of time. You might want to consider not going from Rome to Florence to Montepulciano and back to Florence. Go straight from Rome to somewhere in southern Tuscany like Montepulciano and end in Florence with day trips. Other good options in southern Tuscany are Montalcino, Pienza or San Quirco d'Orcia (especially with a car). If you want to train out of Rome and pick up a car at your first overnight outside, look at Orvieto which is on the main train line and has car rentals. It also a lot of interesting things to see.

 

[Mom83]

My family have been visiting Rome and Tuscany every year since 2005…first a week’s stay in either the Val d’Orcia region (where Montepulciano is located) or the Chianti region (closer to Florence) of Tuscany and then ending with 5-6 days in Rome before flying home.
I attended college for a year in Florence back in the 70’s…your daughter will love her time there! Our daughter attended college in Rome for a year in 2005…my husband and I and our 18 year old son spent 3 weeks traveling around Italy with her during that time.
That is not a lot of time for you to visit Rome…have you been there before? You may just want to wander the city and see the major sights from the outside rather than trying for tickets to tour the Vatican museums (houses the Sistine Chapel), St. Peter’s Basilica, and the Colosseum…unless one of those appeals to you enough that you want a more extensive visit.
Once you train to Florence, you can decide what you want to do in Florence itself…if your daughter has been there a few weeks already, she will know it well enough to be a good tour guide for you. Florence is a very beautiful, walkable city but it can be very crowded, even in October…and it can be quite warm still the first part of the month.
If you wanted, you could rent a car in Florence for a few days (preferably out by the airport rather than at the train station) and visit the beautiful hill towns in the Chianti region just south of Florence (my personal preference)…or you could head west to visit Pisa and Lucca. The Val d’Orcia region of Tuscany is a bit farther south and may be better saved for a future trip. Some of my favorite places in the Chianti region are the city of Siena (stunning cathedral), and the nearby hill towns of Castellina in Chianti, Radda in Chianti, Montefioralle (just outside Greve), Monteriggioni, and Panzano. If you stayed a few nights in or near Siena, you could take wonderful day trips to these other hill towns.

 

[Cda]

Is this your first time in Italy????

 

[ESR-MI]

@Cda & @Mom83 - Yes, this will be our first time in Italy. I have heard that Rome needs its own trip, so that's why we are figuring on just getting over the jet-lag for a day or so (with some minor exploring there) and then heading to the Florence/Tuscany area for the remainder of the trip.

So based on what I'm seeing, is mid-to-late October not super busy?... or at least compared to the high travel seasons?

Lots of great suggestions and thoughts on this - greatly appreciate the input from everyone - keep it coming!