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Rome and ...?

devarae

100+ Posts
Hello fellow travelers!

I'm starting to plan for a trip we are hoping to make (still need to finalize vacation time from work so I have not made any reservations yet) this fall, probably twelve nights during the first two weeks of October. We'd be flying from Boston.

At the moment, our primary destination is likely to be Rome. We were there in October of 2017 but only for three nights (in between longer stays in Venice and Positano). I had not been sure if I would like Rome but it turned out that I LOVED it! We stayed in Trastevere, but close enough to walk to the Pantheon and other central sites. We visited the Colosseum on a small group tour, and some of the Palantine Hill. We also visited San Clemente. Needless to say, we immediately decided we had to return for a longer trip!

That said, I am not sure we want to spend all twelve nights in Rome. We were thinking of perhaps five nights in one other location not too far away, and then seven in Rome (or in reverse order).

So my two questions for you all are:

First, can you recommend another location that would be a good complement? I was considering Orvieto, for example. Or if there were some other smaller town that might provide a more rural feel to counterbalance the time we spend in the city, especially somewhere with trails for rambling. Of course another option might be spending some time in Naples-- we went to Pompeii on our last trip and would love to go back, and also to visit Herculaneum and the museum in Naples.

We like beautiful vistas, parks and nature, architecture, good walking, good food (though not necessarily high-class, especially as one of us is vegan and another mostly eats vegetarian), ancient history, 'atmosphere', and people-watching. We are not so big on art, and do not drink, and are less interested in churches/religious history (though I do adore mosaics!). We'd prefer to keep driving to a minimum (ideally not to drive at all, though that is negotiable) which I realize cuts down on options.

One other option I hadn't really been considering but has occured to me just now is that we could actually fly into Milan and spend the first five nights in the Lake Como area, which is a part of Italy I've always really, really wanted to visit, then take a fast train from there to Rome. I realize that's not particularly "slow" travel though! :)

And Second: If instead you would recommend simply spending all 12 nights in Rome, are there any particular day trips you'd recommend in case we do get antsy? (I am not entirely sure I'm cut out for really slow travel, as I have gotten antsy in the past after seven days in one place, even in my favorite city so far, Paris!).

Thanks in advance for any advice!!!

Deva
 
Ciao Deva.

12 nights is not a lot for Rome which has so, so much to offer.
I would stay there all 12 days and keep a list of possible day-trips.

If you're really easily restless and "like
"beautiful vistas, parks and nature, architecture, good walking, good food (though not necessarily high-class, especially as one of us is vegan and another mostly eats vegetarian), ancient history, 'atmosphere"…
I would recommend: 5 days in Venice. Don't be discouraged by the tourist stories. Actually if you stay IN Venice, it makes all the difference. In the early morning and from early evening onward, Venice is not overrun and is very nice.

If someone points a gun to my head and makes me choose one other city besides Rome for a 12-day trip, my personal choice will be Naples, for the beauty of the city, the proximity to Pompeii, the food, the food, the food, - but I know Naples does not suiteveryone's taste.

I'm a carnivore and don't have the expertise to recommend a one-cuisine-fiuts-all city, but since you have been to Italy before, you know many pasta dishes and tramezzini (wonderful Venetian specialty sandwiches) are vegetarian.

Whatever you decide, you'll have a great time.
 
Thank you so much Parigi! We've actually visited Venice twice now (five nights each time) and it is probably my second favorite destination ever (the first being Paris :) ) so I would certainly go back in a heartbeat! I am not sure we'll do it again this time as I was hoping to try somewhere new (or somewhere like Rome, that we've only had the smallest taste of).

I am glad to hear you recommend Naples. I am still strongly considering it!
 
I too would recommend Naples as a second destination. Loved the fast paced crush of local culture and, of course, the pizza.

Another thought would be a week or more in Rome and some days in Orvieto--lovely Umbrian town, easy train ride.

All depends what you're in the mood for.
 
Thanks jan! It is good to hear that you like the idea of Orvieto or Naples! I think I need to go read some more trip reports on Naples to get a better sense of it as a destination.
 
Personally I'd do Roma and Orvieto, but while in the area I'd visit the Etruscan sites between Tuscany and Lazio... but you said that you're not really willing to drive, so, maybe I'd skip Orvieto this time and leave it for a more "adventurous" trip ;)
Naples sounds good, Como is a bit of a trip, or you may reconsider your idea of not driving and explore a bit of the countryside of Central Italy: Lazio, Umbria, Le Marche or Tuscany... many possibilities if you're willing to enjoy nature (and do not forget that October in many places of Centraly Italy means the beginning of Truffle season!).
 
I too loved Naples. We spent a week there in 2013, and it was not enough time.
 
For me, 12 days being exposed to the noise and traffic (pedestrian and auto) of Rome and Naples would do me in, but my wife loves cities and we've survived a whole lot of years of traveling together. If you spend time in Naples, it is a short hike from the Mount Vesuvius parking area to the summit for views of the bay (we drove there, but am sure there would be public transportation). For day trips from Rome, it is a short train ride to Orvieto. Check the admission times to Underground Orvieto for a nice change from the usual venues of cathedrals and museums. Also take a look at Hadrian's Villa and Villa D'Este in Tivoli for places in which to wander. I'll throw in a location that you didn't mention that lends itself to walking -- Rapallo outside of Genoa. There is a seaside walking path that goes from Rapallo to Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and on to San Fruttoso. There are water ferries that connect the towns and can hop on once you are tired of walking. You can also take a train from there to the Cinque Terre for the trail between villages there. Rapallo has very nice old town area with a wide selection of restaurants that are enjoyable.
 
You've received good suggestions, but I thought I would throw in another. Think about taking the high speed train between Rome and Bologna. It only takes 2 hrs 15 min. If you search for Bologna on this forum, you will find several posts about the city. I visited for a couple days a few years ago & am returning this May for a longer visit.

You could do the trip in either order depending on what flights work best for you. Check into flying in/out of either Milan or Bologna.
 
If you liked Pompeii, a great day trip from Rome is Ostia Antica. It's about a 30 minute train ride and you can spend all day there exploring the vast ruins.

If you do go to Orvieto, you HAVE to go to Civita di Bagnoregio.
 
Hello fellow travelers!

I'm starting to plan for a trip we are hoping to make (still need to finalize vacation time from work so I have not made any reservations yet) this fall, probably twelve nights during the first two weeks of October. We'd be flying from Boston.

At the moment, our primary destination is likely to be Rome. We were there in October of 2017 but only for three nights (in between longer stays in Venice and Positano). I had not been sure if I would like Rome but it turned out that I LOVED it! We stayed in Trastevere, but close enough to walk to the Pantheon and other central sites. We visited the Colosseum on a small group tour, and some of the Palantine Hill. We also visited San Clemente. Needless to say, we immediately decided we had to return for a longer trip!

That said, I am not sure we want to spend all twelve nights in Rome. We were thinking of perhaps five nights in one other location not too far away, and then seven in Rome (or in reverse order).

So my two questions for you all are:

First, can you recommend another location that would be a good complement? I was considering Orvieto, for example. Or if there were some other smaller town that might provide a more rural feel to counterbalance the time we spend in the city, especially somewhere with trails for rambling. Of course another option might be spending some time in Naples-- we went to Pompeii on our last trip and would love to go back, and also to visit Herculaneum and the museum in Naples.

We like beautiful vistas, parks and nature, architecture, good walking, good food (though not necessarily high-class, especially as one of us is vegan and another mostly eats vegetarian), ancient history, 'atmosphere', and people-watching. We are not so big on art, and do not drink, and are less interested in churches/religious history (though I do adore mosaics!). We'd prefer to keep driving to a minimum (ideally not to drive at all, though that is negotiable) which I realize cuts down on options.

One other option I hadn't really been considering but has occured to me just now is that we could actually fly into Milan and spend the first five nights in the Lake Como area, which is a part of Italy I've always really, really wanted to visit, then take a fast train from there to Rome. I realize that's not particularly "slow" travel though! :)

And Second: If instead you would recommend simply spending all 12 nights in Rome, are there any particular day trips you'd recommend in case we do get antsy? (I am not entirely sure I'm cut out for really slow travel, as I have gotten antsy in the past after seven days in one place, even in my favorite city so far, Paris!).

Thanks in advance for any advice!!!

Deva
I think Orvieto could be the answer to both of your ideas. The first time I visited Orvieto was an early morning to early evening day trip from Rome. We returned for four nights last year. It is small and peaceful, compared to Rome's hubbub and sprawl. It has everything I want in a small Italian city, and it is just 90 minutes by train from Termini.

On the other hand. I also LOVE Naples. My wife and I spent two weeks in a small Airbnb in the historic center. We had been scared off from Naples by the stories we heard, but found it to feel safe and intimate. It is the antithesis to Florence. While Florence is tidied up every evening so that we can see the Medieval city in all its pristine glory, Naples's historic center is covered with grafitti as high as a young person can raise a spray paint can. It is also the home of the most abandoned Catholic Churches in the world. It is a bit of a cross between Siena and Blade Runner.

If you find that description intriguing rather than repelling, you'll probably love Naples.

While there, don't miss The Veiled Christ. I think this is the most moving piece of marble in the world.

Have a great tirp.
 
No one will be surprised when I vote for Orvieto as it's my home away from home. Easy one hour train ride from Rome, countryside has lots of walking options amongst ruins or over by Bolsena, a wonderful, enormous lake area. Hiking around the lake could take you a couple of days as it is largest enough that it supports 8 little towns, some with nice hills to climb. You would need a car for the countryside but that's easy to arrange in Orvieto if you rent from Luigi who will pick you up at the train station and drop you off when you're done. Pay cash, get a discount; yes he does have good insurance. I can recommend places to stay outside of Orvieto, too, that will make you feel like you live there. Whatever you choose I'm sure it will be fantastic!

Ciao,
Cheryl
www.italianexcursion.com
 
Thank you everyone! This is all really helpful! I will definitely do some more research on both Orvieto and Naples, and keep the other options in mind as well. I'm excited!
 
When you get to the point of weighing Capri versus Ischia for side trips when you are in Naples, choose both ;-) Capri for visuals and history; Ischia for the feeling of freedom from most other tourists as you walk among the ruins. The Archaeological Museum in Naples is a must-do, but will also note that trying to drive (or, for that matter, cross the street on foot) in Naples is an invitation for disaster. One of our favorite things in Naples is just enjoy the street vendors in places such as the fish market. Good advice above about getting to Bagnoregio from Orvieto. Also in that same general area is Viterbo, the 13th centruy home of the papacy, if you enjoy the feeling of walking in history. Looking forward to hearing your final itinerary.
 
Thank you for all the excellent advice, everyone! At the moment, I am pretty sure it's going to be Orvieto + Rome, so I am going to start a separate thread for that with some additional questions.
 
Check out the Agritorisimo Marciano outside of Siena if you would like a unique experience. We went in 2018 for 5 days and now booked for 7 this Fall.
 
The Milan/Como area takes away too much time from your limited schedule. Not exactly 'slow travel," but I'd fly into Florence and rent a car. Spend a few days in Tuscany, finish in Florence and train to Rome. If round trip Rome, rent at the airport and go to Orvieto (I've done this more than once). I'd leave car in Florence and train back to Rome.
Have fun planning.
 
As you mentioned, Orvieto is a great choice - user-friendly and easy access from Rome. And Naples is great, but I'd tend to balance out time in Rome (city) with something more rural/smaller town. I also second Giulia's recommendation of someplace else in Lazio or Umbria to give some different views, pace and vibe. Viterbo is really lovely with lots to see in the area (plus hot springs to soak away the walking). Lake Bolsena or Lake Bracciano are both pretty, as is Tuscania or Tarquinia - lots of options in this area! Todi or Spoleto in Umbria are worthy, too.
 

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