Scotland Stirling Castle

A major fortification and once royal residence, Stirling Castle dominates the surrounding landscape.

Situated on the top of Castle Rock, a volcanic plug formed over 350 million years ago, and surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs, it occupied a superb defensive and strategic position.

It was set between the Highlands to the north and west and the Forth Valley and Edinburgh to the southeast, overlooking a key crossing point on the River Forth. Who ever held the rock controlled the river crossing and so the whole region.

It has a long and complex history.

There has been a fortress at Stirling since prehistoric times. The Celts are thought to have built a hill fort here 2,000 years ago, and the Romans may have fortified the rock in the 1st Century.

The first record of a castle here is from the C12th when Alexander I arranged for upkeep of a chapel here He died here in 1124, supporting the view it was an established royal centre by then. By the mid C12th, the castle had become a key administrative centre. David 1 made Stirling one of the first royal burghs in Scotland.

William I in the early C13th established a royal hunting ground, known as the King’s Park, below the ramparts.

The death of Alexander III and his grand daughter, Margaret of Norway, in 1290, left Scotland without a monarch, triggering a succession crisis. Edward I of England was invited to arbitrate between rival claimants and took custody of Stirling Castle. Edward gave judgement in favour of John Balliol, hoping he would be a "puppet" ruler, but John refused to obey Edward's demands.

This triggered the Wars of Scottish Independence. The struggle for control of Stirling Castle resulted it being sieged at least eight times and changing hands several times

Perhaps the most important was in 1304 when Edward I successfully attacked the fortification using fire-throwing equipment and at least 17 siege engines, including a siege machine known as the "Warwolf," believed to be the largest trebuchet ever created.

Robert Bruce declared himself King of Scotland in 1306 and began a campaign to free Scotland from the English. Edward II wasn’t a patch on his father Edward I and, after his disastrous defeat at the Battle of Bannochburn, Edward fled back to England. The victory allowed Robert the Bruce to consolidate his position as King not only in Scotland but also abroad. He ordered Strling Castle to be partially destroyed so it could no longer be reoccupied by the English.

When the Scottish Wars of Independence finally ended in the mid C14th Century, the first Stewart king, Robert II, began repairs to the castle. The North Gate dates from his time and is the oldest part of the castle. It was never intended as a main gateway into the castle, but linked the Nether Bailey to the rest of the castle.

Later Scottish monarchs continued to reshape the site as their principal royal centre and reflecting their ambitions of status not only in Scotland but also Europe. James IV was responsible for much of the present appearance of the castle, with his significant building projects at the start of the C16th, which included the King’s Old Building (used as his residence), the Great Hall and the Forework.

James V grew up with ambitions to be powerful ruler and continued to expand on his father’s building programme. He was responsible for the sumptuous Renaissance palace building, intended as a suitable residence for him and his wife Mary of Guise, and probably funded by her substantial dowry. The outside was covered with sculptures and the inside ceilings with carved heads designed to show his authority and right to rule.

Margaret Tudor - wife of James IV

James V

James V did not live to see his palace completed. Mary of Guise was responsible for commissioning the major artillery defences of the castle.

The last main structure to be built was the Chapel Royal, built by James VI for the baptism of his eldest son.

After the union of the crowns in 1603 when James VI was crowned James I of England, the palace became less important as a royal residence, although it still remained an important military function.

During the Jacobite rebellions in the C18th, much of Scotland still supported the Stuart Kings rather than the ‘usurper’ Hanoverian Kings. The outer defences of the castle were strengthened. A deep ditch was built in front of the main entrance with a defensive wall behind designed to take canons and a caponier (covered shooting gallery).

Buildings in the castle were adapted to house troops. The main Guard House and the Fort Major’s house were added.

Although the Jacobites led by Bonnie Prince Charlie besieged the castle, they failed to take it.

From 1800 the Castle was owned by the War Office and run as a barracks. The Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders were headquartered in the castle from 1881 until 2006. Part of the King’s Old Building is now their museum.

During the C19th the castle increasingly became a tourist attraction. Guardianship passed to the Office of Works in 1906.

The Chapel Royal and the Great Hall were restored in the 1990s, and the entire royal palace underwent a painstaking restoration in 2001–11, returning it to what it may have been like in the1540s. The outside of the Great Hall was covered with King’s Gold limewash, originally intended to make it stand out of the surrounding countryside as as symbol of royal power.

Stirling Castle is now looked after by Historic Environment Scotland.

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[Eleanor]

Stirling Castle cont....

Stirling Castle is a complex structure with different buildings and spaces added over the centuries.

The three main enclosures within the castle are:
• the outer defences on the approach to the castle


• the main enclosure on the summit of the rock bounded to the south by the Forework and encircled by a defensive wall

• the nether bailey to the north

At the centre of the castle and on the top of the site, is the Inner Close, a square formed by the principal buildings for royal occupation.

These are:

• King’s Old Building – built for James IV in 1496

• Great Hall – added by James IV around 1503

• Royal Palace – built for James V around 1540
• Chapel Royal – commissioned by James VI in 1594

Around the Outer Close are the Great Kitchens (early 1500s) and later army buildings.

The Nether Bailey, at the lowest part of the castle rock, houses powder magazines from the 1800s.

Guarding the main entrance from the town are the:
• Forework – built for James IV around 1500
• Outer Defences – added by Queen Anne around 1710

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[Eleanor]

Stirling Castle cont...

A statue of Robert the Bruce stands guard outside the castle.

Visitors enter through a gateway in the outer wall into the Guardroom Square with guardhouse, stable, and a hay store, whic his now the ticket office.

This would have been a real killing zone for any enemy soldiers as is overlooked by the canons on top of the Overport Battery built in the early C18th in response to fears of a Jacobite uprising. On the inner side of the battery were casements which could be used to store ammunition and secure shelter for troops.

The Inner Gateway gives access to the castle..

Beyond is the massive Forework Gateway commissioned by James IV and was the main entrance to the castle until the outer defences were added. As well as a defensive purpose, it was a display of James’s power and importance. A ramp leads up to the Overport Battery.

The towers were originally a lot taller with conical roofs. In the C18th, they were reduced in height to serve as gun platforms. At the far end was the Elphistone Tower which was later demolished. At the opposite end overlooking Queen Anne Garden, was the rectangular Princes Tower, which was later incorporated into the Royal Palace by James V. This was the nursery and schoolroom of royal children.

The Outer Close

Through the Forework Gateway, is the Outer Close.

This was a public space that gave controlled access to the Great Hall and Palace. Immediately to the right of the entrance are the Fort Major’s House and the Main Guard house built in the late C18th.

In the centre is the well, with the Grand Battery beyond, which was built over the site of the old kitchens in 1689 to protect the castles east side from the Jacobite threat.

Near here was the Elphistone tower. This was demolished in 1689 when an artillery battery was built. There are steps leading down to the two lower floors. The Constable in charge of the Castle lived here.

The Three Gun Battery is round the corner from the Elphinstone Tower.

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[Eleanor]

Stirling Castle cont - the Royal Palace

Access to the Royal Palace is from the Outer Court. A doorway leads into a passageway with storage vaults off. These have displays about the Palace and also displays aimed at the kids about different aspects of castle life.

The far end of the corridor leads outside and what is referred to as the Lady’s Lookout with its views down to the King’s Knot. These were part of an ornamental garden designed to celebrate the coronation of Charles I. The top of the mound gave a spectacular view of the castle towering above it.

Steps lead up into the Royal Palace. The King’s Old Building was felt to be old fashioned and unbefitting to the staus of James V. He wanted a new palace built to the latest fashion to reflect his position and importance, but also as a suitable palace for his wife, Mary of Guise. With its elaborately carved stonework, it is one of the most architecturally impressive buildings in Scotland.

It was designed round a central courtyard, known as the Lion’s Den. According to legend, James V kept a live lion here, although it may just reflect the importance of the lion in Scottish heraldry.

The King and Queen had their own set of apartments, with outer and inner chambers and a bedchamber. Only the most important and favoured guests were admitted to the bedchamber. These have been restored to what they may have looked like in 1540. The furnishings are replicas.

The West Gallery links the two sets of apartments.

The first room to be entered is the Queen’s Outer Hall. This served as a waiting area for those hoping for an audience with the Queen. It also could be used as a dining room for entertaining large numbers of guests. It is a large and attractive room with window recesses, wood panelled ceiling, and a painted frieze around the walls.

This leads into the smaller Inner Hall or Presence Chamber with the Queen's chair of state at one end on a raised dais with a canopy above.

The painted ceiling panels have the initials of James and Mary, along with small portrits of them.

The base of the walls are painted to look as if they are covered with red and white hangings, with small harebell motifs.

Round the walls above are the Unicorn Tapestries. In the 1500s, tapestry wall coverings were expensive and only found in the most elite households. The palace walls would have been covered with over a hundred tapestries. James V had two sets of unicorn tapestries, which no longer exist, apart from descriptions in the Royal Inventories. The unicorn held a mythical significance in Scotland and featured in all royal heraldry. These tapestries were specially commissioned and woven between 2001-13, based on the “Hunt of the Unicorn” tapestries in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Depicting a group of noblemen in pursuit of a unicorn, they now hang in the Queen’s Inner Hall to give an impression of just how splendid the royal palace would have looked. The seven tapestries

Beyond is the Queen’s Bedchamber, where the Queen would entertain the most important and favoured guests. The state bed was symbolic as the queen would have slept in a small room off.

There is a painted frieze round the top of the walls and wall hangings cover the walls, helping to reduce draughts and keep the room warm. Above is a painted wooden ceiling.

On the wall next to the bed is is Mary of Guise’s Coat of Arms combined with the Royal Arms.

Carpets were expensive and were used to cover tables as well as the floor.

The small prayer table with triptych above would probably have stood in the small sleeping closet rather than in the main bedchamber.

A door leads through into the King’s Bedchamber. Apparently this could only be locked or unlocked from the Queen's side. The room is unfurnished with just the bed frame in a corner. After the death of James V, the room would not have been used. Again there is a painted frieze round the top of the walls and an elaborately painted ceiling. The unicorn above the fire place was a royal symbol of purity and strength.

Next is the King’s Inner Hall. The room was unfinished when James died and is left empty. Again it is decorated by painted friezes and an impressive coat of arms above the fireplace.

Shuttered windows are set in wall alcoves.

Perhaps the most stunning feature are the carved heads on the ceiling. These were removed when the ceiling began to collapse in 1777. The surviving 38 heads are now displayed in a gallery on the upper floor of the palace. A new set of heads were commissioned as part of the 2001–11 restoration of the palace.

The King’s Outer Hall is less splendid than the Inner Hall with a plain panelled wood ceiling and frieze round the walls. Above the fireplace is the royal coat of arms with unicorn supporters, designed to impress those waiting for an audience with the King.

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[Eleanor]

Stirling Castle cont - The Stirling Heads

Thirty four of the original heads survived when the ceiling of the King’s Inner Hall was taken down in 1777. They are now displayed in a gallery on the upper floors of the Royal Palace.

They are reached along a gallery with a painted ceiling based on a celestial map of 1515 with the signs of the zodiac.

The original heads were carved from oak and then painted. They included images of real as well as mythological people.

Many of the heads depict members of the royal court, all dressed in the highly fashionable French and Italian style clothes

There is also a wonderful head depicting the court jester.

There are four heads depicting Hercules the Hero, the ideal man displaying strength, courage and compassion.

Stairs lead down through the Prince’s Tower and out of the Royal Palace.

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[Eleanor]

Stirling Castle cont - The Inner Close

At the highest point of the castle, the Inner Close is surrounded by the principal buildings of James IV’s castle. It is entered by a narrow passageway from the outer close.

On the south side is James V’s Palace.

To the east is The Great Hall, which straddles both the outer and inner courts. It is perhaps James IV’s most ambitious expression of power and prestige. It is the largest and most impressive Medieval hall in Scotland and intended to impress. It could hold 500 people and was an imposing setting for banquets, state occasions and occasional sessions of parliament. Covered in a golden whitewash, referred to as the ‘King’s Gold’ it could be (and still is) seen for miles.

After the Union of the Crowns in 1603 and James VI’s move to England, the Great Hall was. no longer needed. It was used as a stables and cart shed and later in the C18th as barracks The hammer beam roof was destroyed as extra floors were put in.

Since the army moved out in 1964, the hall, complete with its hammer beam roof, has been completely restored back to its C16th appearance.

One end of the hall was screened off as a serving area. Above was the minstrel’s gallery.

The King and Queen along with the most important guests, sat on a raised dais at the other end, below the Royal Coat of Arms.

Five fireplaces and wall hangings helped keep the hall warm.

Two large bay windows with the Coats of Arms of Scottish nobles, emphasised the important position of the High Table.

To the north iof the Inner Close is the Chapel Royal which was built in 1594 replacing an earlier building, by James VI for the baptism of his eldest son.

It was lavishly decorated with tapestries and a golden ceiling. In the centre was the font. The inside was redecorated for the visit of Charles I and the murals can still be seen. Now the inside is bare of furnishings.

The final side of the Inner Close is taken up with the King’s Old Building, built on the edge of sheer cliffs.

The main rooms would have been on the first floor above vaulted ground floor storage rooms.

After the Palace was built, this was no longer used by the Monarch and was used to house officers of the military garrison. It now houses the Regimental Museum of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders.

Beyond is the Douglas Garden with the Magazine. Named after William, 8th Earl of Douglas who was stabbed and killed in 1452 during a brawl with James II and flung from a window.

The garden is surrounded by wall walks that were added in the early 1700s. They allowed sentries to patrol the castle perimeter and had clear views across the surrounding countryside.

There are also views down into the Nether Bailey at the far end of the castle. This is enclosed by a wall but the rocky nature of the ground made it unsuitable for large buildings. There may have been workshops, store rooms and stables here. The long low building is C19th and was a powder magazine.