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Traveling to Languedoc and Provence in May

Pauline

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Thanks to everyone who helped me plan our May trip to France. I am starting a new thread to collect travel advice.

Aix-en-Provence - 1 night: We are traveling the last two weeks of May, flying from Heathrow into Marseilles Airport, picking up a rental car and driving up to Aix-en-Provence for one night. I have a hotel booked. We have been to Aix on day trips, twice, but have never stayed there. We will have the evening and the next morning and afternoon there (Saturday).

Uzes, Languedoc - 7 nights: We have this apartment booked. Uzes and the surrounding area we know somewhat, having spent 1 week in nearby Nimes last March, 1 week in Uzes in May and 10 nights in Uzes again in October. For this trip I wanted to stay in Vaison-la-Romaine but we were late booking a vacation rental and I could not find anything I liked, so we decided to stay in Uzes again. We will do some hiking in the area (I have the maps and books that we used on the last trip) and explore north of Uzes, near the northern border of the Languedoc region. Perhaps we will make it to Orange on this trip, to see the Roman Theater.

Forcalquier, Provence - 6 nights: We have this apartment booked (recommended by Ann). This area is new to us. We spent two weeks in the Luberon 10 years ago, so saw some of that area, but we did not get east of Apt.

On the planning thread Ann says: "It's in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and has about 5,000 inhabitants". This is a similar size to Uzes. Small enough to be close to the countryside, but big enough to have a selection of shops and restaurants.

Also on the planning thread Kathy wrote: "Charley and I were just talking today that we really like the area up around Forcalquier... it's a small town but closer to the mountains. I think you would enjoy some of the villages in that area, and you can do some hiking around the Gorges de Oppedette or on the Montagne de Lure. There are gardens we like at Salagon and Valsaintes. We like the towns of Sisteron and Manosque and there are small interesting villages nearby too. Pauline, if you end up staying in this area, you'll want to get the Michelin Green Guide for the Alpes de Sud, since this is the Alpes de Haut Provence. The Winns cover a bit of this area in their Provence Byways book too."

I have the Winns book and will start reading. I will order the Michelin Green Guide too.

In Forcalquier we will want to spend a few days hiking. I have contacted the vacation rental owner to see if he can help us get organized for this, since he runs a walking company. We don't need a guided hike, but would like some suggestions of good places for 2 - 5 hour walks.

If anyone else has advice or recommendations for any of our travel destinations, please post.

This is a photo of an ancient standing stone (menhir) near Uzes that I read something about on our first trip, but we could not find it. We found it on the second trip, but only after a long drive on a very rutted dirt road, and we had to drive through a large group of hunters. But now I know how to walk there, and we will do that in May. (Sorry for the almost obscene look of this. I wonder what those prehistoric people were thinking about? ;) )

menhir-7027.jpg
 
I realize that we will miss the famous Saturday morning market in Uzes, but we have been to it twice and it is great. They also have a Wednesday morning market that is smaller and has mostly organic producers, so we can go to that one.
 
Pauline, you might get some hiking ideas here:

http://www.luberon-apt.fr/index.php/en/bouger/a-pied

And I think you'd like to visit the ruins of this old priory at Carluc (near Cereste). Here's a page with some photos. It is on the old Via Dometia and the Santiago de Compostela. I think there is a circular hike you can do that includes the priority, but it must be in one of my books in Bonnieux. There's one on the website above, but it's 6-1/2 hours and I'm not sure if it's what you want.

Kathy
 
That's a lovely spot and the first place I saw those tiny graves carved into the stone. This is on one of the back roads drives in the Winn's guidebook.
 
Thanks for those links Kathy. I am organizing myself now for the trip (we leave in a week). We have visited many Via Domitia sites and I wanted to hunt out some east of Apt - so that article about Carluc is perfect. I bought a hiking book in French for the area (Steve can translate) and the IGN map, and will use those plus the site you linked to for picking out some walks.

And I will dig out my old copy of the Winn's book - thanks for the reminder.

The best place I have seen for graves carved into stone, is in the Languedoc, just over the border with Provence near Beaucaire. Photos - Saint Roman Abbey. So many of them and in a spectacular setting.
 
Changed my travel plan slightly and now we spend one night in Saint-Remy on arrival, instead of Aix-en-Provence. We decided we did not want to deal with the Aix traffic on a Friday evening, just for one night there. On Saturday we drive from Saint-Remy, stopping at the Barbegal Aqueduct and Mill near Fontvielle on the way (thank you Chris for telling me about this). We got an early check in for the Uzes apartment.
 
Let me check my notes. We drove from Nice to Apt and went through Forcalquier. We loved the drive through Haute Provence. We arrived after lunch and the town was very quiet but beautiful. I enjoyed walking the streets. We stopped at Salagon to see the gardens. I second the recommendation. Very interesting. We also went on a hike in the Montagne de Lure region with Kevin. It was lovely. I wanted to return to explore the region more especially around Banon, etc. On the way back we drove through Sault and down a narrow little canyon. We were staying near Lioux and it took us through Murs (I think). I have pictures. The hike was just a cross country walk that Kevin had done before. I might be able to find it on a map (he drove). I also want to see some of my notes/bookmarks.
 
I had book marked this site for the future http://www.vieil-aiglun.fr/index.php. It is a rental in Haute Provence farther east of Forcalquier. Drill into the menu on the left and there are a lot of information on what to do in the area. I remembered there is a Geology museum in Digne les Bains. We didn't have time to visit on our drive but it might be interesting. I have a hiking site for PACA region - here is a link to the hike map for department 04 Alpes-Haute Provence. It might provide some ideas.

And of course, don't forget to check out the tourism site.
 
I spent the last hour copying and pasting from those websites into a Word doc and still have more. Thanks Marta! That Vieil Aiglun website has a lot of great info.

That Goldsworthy art looks beautiful - sitting out in the wilderness, wonderful! I will try to find some of it.

And thanks for the links to your photos - nice to see photos of Forcalquier before we get there. I will try to get to Le Jas des Terres du Roux also - looks great.

Planning for Uzes is easier. This is our third trip - so I have the local hiking books and maps and we have done some of the hikes already. Lots more to do. We might attempt to walk from Uzes, at the start of the Nimes Roman Aqueduct, to the Pont du Gard, on a trail that roughly follows the aqueduct, and then take a bus back. We walked several parts of this last year, hunting out bits of the aqueduct (I am working on those photos now and will add them to my Slow Europe photos), but it might be nice to walk the whole distance. It is 18km - 11miles. At least it is a flat walk. We could divide it into two walks.

We leave on Friday. Because a friend is staying here to cat-sit and will use our car, we are going to take the train from Stroud to Reading, then a special bus to Heathrow. If this works well, we might do this in future instead of driving (boring motorway drive) and parking at Heathrow (expensive).
 

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