Northern Italy Verona and Around Recommendations?

[Amy]

We will have a few days in Verona at the start of our trip this month. Would love some recommendations for restaurants, spots for aperitivo, as well as sights or experiences beyond the obvious or any other tips.

After Verona, we will have two days in the Valpolicella, based in Fumane. Winery and restaurant recommendations would be great. Also, has anyone had experience visiting the excavation of the Roman mosaics, Villa Romana die Mosaici de Negrar?

Thanks!

 

[FedericoBoston]

Glad to recommend La Taverna di via Stella ( https://www.tavernadiviastella.com/ ). A true old-world feel with funky decor (murals, wannabe frescoes, kitchen equipment etc), friendly staff, and a fine menu.

 

[Amy]

Grazie, neighbor! La Taverna is very close to our apartment.

 

[italian excursion]

You will be close to Padua which you can get to by a short train ride, I believe. There you find the amazing Scrovegni Chapel which houses a brilliant fresco by Giotto. It's a UNESCO heritage site and you'll need to reserve a spot which allows ticket holders about 15 minutes (if I recall) to sit in the chapel to view it. It has to be at a certain humidity/temp to preserve the fresco so it is closely regulated. BUT so worth the opportunity. www.://cappelladegliscrovegni.it ((about $18 per ticket).

Ciao,
Cheryl
www.italianexcursion.com

 

[jan]

We haven't been there since 2016 but we loved Locanda 4 Cuochi.
Also, I want to pass on this message I got, years ago, from Yvonne from Australia:
“Look very carefully between the line of restaurants and the Lamberti tower and you will see an archway leading to the Piazza dei Signori. Dangling under the arch is a rib bone of a whale. Local legend says that the rib will collapse onto the head of the first honest man who passes under it. It has be there since the fifteenth century but you have been warned.”

 

[Ian Sutton]

Three wineries:
Gini (Monforte D'Alpone) - superb Soave, especially the old vines contrada Salvarenza, but the whole range good and lovely hosts.
Roccolo Grassi (Mezzane di sotto) - The Valpol shines brightest IMO, but all are interesting, and they have a steely determination to keep improving.
Marco Mosconi (East of Mezzane di sotto, over the river). All wines good, but the recioto della Valpolicella was stunningly good. Not cheap, but conversely a bargain price IMO.

In Verona, Bottega del Vino, which is usefully rather hidden away down a little alley, helping it mitigate the worst excesses of mass tourism. Oddly it was the food that impressed us more than the wine - classical trattoria dishes done superbly.

 

[Amy]

We thoroughly enjoyed our four days in Verona and two 1/2 in the Valpolicella.
Verona highlights for me—
Doing an online independent walking tour. Wandering away from Piazza Erbe at aperitivo time into the more residential areas for drinks and snacks. Walking alongside the riverbank.
The Museo Anthrologico Al Teatro Romano— small and fascinating, with a fun climb up to the old convent which houses it above the Roman theater.
Basilica San Zeno— beautiful Romanesque structure with fine carvings and frescos, well worth the short walk from the touristic core.
Museo Palazzo Mafei— a surprisingly eclectic art collection, from Ancient Egyptian to contemporary Italian in a restored palazzo. Really enjoyable.
Castelvecchio Museum—

Verona Food—
Excellent chichetti and wines at Caffe Monte Baldo. Very popular, but we always got an outside table if there early.
Traditional, very good food at La Taverna de via Stella. Must reserve, they were turning people away at dinner. If you like coniglio, get it here.
A bit upscale, but fairly priced for the quality, La Locanda da Ruggero. Lovely wines and good advice on ordering. Some outdoor tables on a quiet piazza. Fresh pasta with truffles, oh yes. And delicious risotto with Amarone which you can order for just one person, unusual in many restaurants)
Home style cooking where the lunchtime diners were all known to the friendly owners— Trattoria del Arco. Everyone was ordering the vegetable contorni as an antipasto, great idea. Solid pastas.
Seafood for a change of pace—Pescheria I Massenini. Good spaghetti Al vongole, ok fritto misto.
I hate to report, but we were disappointed by Bottega del Vino. Had a carpaccio with very good meat, but the tartufo slices topping it were dried out with absolutely no fragrance or flavor. Our Secondi also not very good. Maybe an off day?

Valpolicella—
We stayed at Agriturismo La Pendola in Fumane. Total Nonna decor, a bit frumpy but decently comfortable. Small wine production (ok but nothing special), very good dinner, especially the grilled meats and desserts.
Standout neighborhood winery visits were -
Cantina Spada- liked their Classico.
Montecariano— we had a very long, fascinating visit with winemaker Marco, and his mother. Some excellent wines, too. Amarone and his delicious “Mr. Nobody” experiment.
Cantina Rino Sartori— mid size, nice range of wines
Az. At. Benedetti— very good wines — and for an extra special treat, reserve a visit with them to go see the 4th century Roman mosaics being excavated and restored on their land. Amazing.

Valpolicella restaurants—

La Pendola, see above. Loved the lamb chops.
Osteria No. 1, very good pastas and antipasti. Must reserve.
Osteria Bar Al Ponte— a good surprise on a Monday. Competent cooking, cheap and cheerful.

Other—
Took a Sunday afternoon drive along Lake Garda, then returned via the inland route through some of Alto Adige. Beautiful scenery.
The hilltop village of San Giorgio and its beautiful Romanesque church. Just lovely up there.

A