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Zurers in Italy 2026
- Thread starter Jim Zurer
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Zurers in Italy 2026
Friday: 15 May: Day 18: Foggia
Today, we are off to Colletorto, a small village in the next region over--Molise. We spent a memorable weekend there twenty years ago at an Olive Oil Weekender organized by two men who lived in the UK but had family roots in Colletorto. We spent one morning actually picking olives and observing the oil processing, the rest of the time, we went sightseeing and eating well with the group of Brits. If you are interested in more details, here is a link to my report of our experience.
https://www.zurer.com/Italia2006/2006/10/day-4-colletorto.html
Colletorto is not on any main route so we get to drive through the countryside. The first part of the trip through northern Puglia is very flat--this is called "the granary of Italy"--and they grow wheat along with olives (Puglia is the biggest producer of olive oil in the country) and wine grapes. As we approach Molise, we start climbing and the road takes us through some more spectacular scenery. We make many stops along the mostly empty road to take pictures.
The fields of poppies are impossible to resist.The fields of poppies are impossible to resist.
and Diana finally gets a picture of the yellow broom (ginestra) that she loves.
On the approach to Colletorto, we get this panoramic view of the town.
We enter the village and are surprised by how clean and vibrant the main street looks. Twenty-four years ago, a major earthquake hit the area, causing extensive damage. Most buildings were covered in scaffolding, and many trailers lined the streets, serving as temporary offices and shops. We drive around and stop to take some pictures of the old tower, the main church, and the view.
We want to get some more of the very high quality Colletorto olive oil so we find the frantoio
and have a limited conversation with the worker there about our previous visit to Colletorto. When we tell him we want to buy two liters, he disappears. He has to go downstairs and fill the tins for us. We shake hands and joke that we will be back for more oil in twenty years.
The hotel where we had stayed is just around the corner so we stop there. One of the hotel staff speaks English and we explain about our earlier visit. She is very welcoming and invites us in. She says she can prepare lunch for us. While we wait, we talk with Rose, an older lady who lives in Colletorto but had spent thirty years in New York, returning to Italy in 1989.
We thought lunch would be a simple affair with the staff but instead they set up one of the tables in the completely empty restaurant for us and arranged an antipasto spread while the pasta cooks.
We enjoy our lunch; after the antipasto, the cook prepares a pasta dish with guanciale and asparagus. While we are eating, a local couple come in for lunch so we guess that preparing our meal wasn't quite as special a gesture as we had thought.
But we are very glad to have come back to Colletorto. Unfortunately, we weren't able to contact the two organizers of the weekend, but apparently the olive oil weekends are still going on. Here's a photo of last year's group.
Photo from primenumero.it
The drive back to Foggia is very scenic as well. But for about ten kilometers, Google Maps puts us on one of the narrowest roads we have experienced. Luckily there is no other traffic while we were on the road.
Back in Foggia, I take a short walk in the extensive public gardens named for Pope John II, that are hidden behind this elaborate entrance.
On the way back to the hotel, I pass this very large mosaic on the side of a building, picturing Italian soccer legend Paolo Rossi.
No dinner tonight, but we walk over to the nearby pedestrian street, which is very busy on this Saturday night. At a sidewalk cafe Diana has a cup of tea and a muffin and I have a glass of prosecco and a plate of very good bruschetta. Before going back, a gelato is in order.
Tomorrow we leave Foggia for Chieti, a hill town in Abruzzo.
Jim and Diana
Zurers in Italy 2026
Saturday: 16 May: Day 19: Foggia-Chieti
Time to leave Foggia...we pack up the luggage and the flowers and head out of town. The weather is overcast and threatening rain; for me, if it's going to rain, I prefer it happens while we are traveling between destinations. It's a 3 hour drive; we make a quick detour to get a sense of the large sea coast town Pescara but don't stop. We plan to return for a visit later in the week.When I text the hotel about our arrival time, the desk clerk warns us not to arrive in town before 2 pm because many streets are closed and parking is limited due to a bicycle race. In the back of my mind, I knew the Giro d'Italia (the Italian version of the Tour de France) is now taking place, but I hadn't thought to find out if Chieti was on the itinerary. I finally put two and two together as we drive through Chieti Scalo (the lower town) to get gas and waste some time. When we come across a main street closed to traffic, with police stopping cars and people waiting on the streets, I realize that the race will pass right here.
I drop Diana off at the traffic circle and park up the road about five minutes away. We have about half an hour to wait until the peloton is scheduled to ride past our location. But prior to that, we see many police cars, sponsor cars, support cars with bikes carried on the roof, motorcycle police, and ambulances whiz by.
And then, in a whoosh, the peloton appears - and disappears down the road, followed by ambulances and more police. Ultimately, we do get to see one of the most important sporting events on the Italian calendar. An example of poor planning being rescued by serendipity.
The spectators quickly disperse, the police take down the barricades, and all is soon back to normal. We get gas before climbing the steep hill to Chieti. The city sits about 1100 feet above sea level and has amazing views toward both the sea and the mountains. The population is said to be about 50,000 but with all the tall apartment buildings, it feels like it should be higher.
We easily find our accommodations, Central Suites, on a street in the business district right next to the historic center. It's a very modern small operation (less than a year since it opened)--eight rooms located on the first floor of an apartment building. Amir, the manager, welcomes us and shows us around. The room seems comfortable but lacking in basic hotel amenities (refrigerator, coffee maker, ice, luggage rack, vase for Diana's flowers--we use a wastepaper basket.) The main hall is bright with a long wall of windows; there are tables for the breakfast service, which is very self-service: coffee, tea from an elaborate espresso machine and pastries delivered from the bar in the building next door. We are a bit dubious about the place (even though it gets very high ratings), but we will give it a chance.
After we settle in, we need to find a place for a late lunch. I find an appealing looking bar down the street and, after a false start when we walk in the wrong direction, we find it right next to the remains of a Roman temple.
The bar (called Tempium) works out well after some concerns. When I asked about sandwiches, the barman went to the kitchen and came out saying the only available options were small prosciutto and cheese sandwiches on mini-cornetti. We order two each and they turn out to be delicious. There is a very pleasant vibe in the bar, the people are friendly, Diana indulges in a delicious cookie. We vow to return....
After lunch, I take a walk down the main street (the Corso Marinucci) which starts just a block from our B&B. I am relieved to see that it is an easy, level walk all the way to the Piazza Duomo. In addition, the main street is very elegant, with imposing buildings on both sides of the pedestrian street.
The Piazza Duomo is large and surrounded by historic buildings. I take some pictures but don't go inside.
We have dinner at an old established restaurant just down the street called Ristorante Nino. The food is very good and the staff are very pleasant. I have an antipasto of fried cheese which I like and Diana enjoys her bruschette with sausage. For her primi, Diana orders a local specialty which turns out to be a soup of pasta and chickpeas which wasn't what she expected. I have a pasta made with a sauce featuring a local salami called ventricina. We have a full bottle of the local Montepulciano d'Abruzzo which we finish. Unbelievably, the bill comes to Euro 51.00, certainly the best value meal we have had on our trip.
We watch another episode of The Jewel in the Crown...we are getting close to the end.
Tomorrow we will have lunch with our friend Romina who will be driving down from San Benedetto del Tronto in Le Marche.
Jim and Diana
Zurers in Italy 2026
Sunday: 17 May: Day 20: Chieti
After our breakfast of cornetti, coffee, and tea, we join with other Teatini (residents of Chieti) on a Sunday morning stroll down the elegant Corso Marinucci.
When we reach Piazza Duomo, I look around for an accessible entrance so we can avoid the stairs into the church. I walk around the corner and find----an elevator. And not only an elevator, but one that works.
A Mass is underway inside so we sit on a pew in the back and stay for the service, which features a first communion for a young girl.
We are meeting our friend Romina and two of her daughters for lunch in Chieti Scalo. Romina was actually Jonathan's friend; they met on a television shoot in Italy in the mid-1990s, but we met her soon after and have been friends ever since. We have a very pleasant lunch eating Abruzzese specialities, catching up on each other's families, and reminiscing about the times we've spent together over the years.
After lunch, Diana stays in to work on her quilt and I head out for a more thorough exploration of Chieti. I walk through the extensive public gardens (Villa Communale); this is the fountain at the entrance.
Since it is a warm and sunny Sunday afternoon, many families are enjoying the park.
I walk past the two archaeological museums that we will visit during our stay. According to legend, Chieti was founded by Achilles in 1181 BC. Wikipedia says: "Perched on a strategic hilltop in the Abruzzo region, Chieti evolved from an Iron Age tribal capital into a major Roman hub, a medieval religious center, and a resilient modern provincial capital." There much local history to fill up both museums.
One of the museums is built over the old amphitheater at the city's highest point, affording great views over the valley towards the snow-capped mountains.
I make my way back to the Piazza Duomo, passing this interesting building
and another of the Roman temples scattered around the city.
From the other side of the city, you can see the Adriatic Sea.
I go inside the Duomo and take a few pictures.
Stepping back outside, I hear some music across the square, look up, and see people dressed in Renaissance costumes dancing .
When I look the other way, I see a group of artists in a painting workshop next to the Duomo's wall.
The dancers walk over to watch the artists which makes for an interesting scene.
This photograph reminds me of a Renaissance painting so I cropped out the artists. I think the result resembles a work by Piero della Francesca.
No dinner tonight...we watch the final episodes of The Jewel in the Crown--amazing.
Tomorrow we will drive towards the mountains and visit some of the towns in the foothills.
Jim and Diana
Zurers in Italy 2026
Monday: 18 May: Day 21: Chieti
This morning is overcast and threatens rain, but we get in the car anyway and head west toward the high mountains to visit some of the towns in the foothills. We first make a quick stop in Pretoro. As you approach, the town seems to hang flat against the side of the hill.
Getting closer, it is still hard to see the streets between the houses.
We decide not to brave the hills of Pretoro. Instead, we head for a larger town called Guardiagrele. The historic center is at the very top of the hill, at 1700 feet. As we drive outside the walls, I notice a street sign through one of the town gates--Via Go. We find a parking space outside the main part of the center. We are looking to buy some fruit (cherries seem to be in season now) and Diana sees people walking toward us carrying shopping bags so we head in that direction. We buy some cherries and apricots and walk over to see the views over the countryside.
The mountains
and the sea.
We start talking to another couple who are also admiring the view. They are Canadians looking for a house to buy in the area for their retirement. They are the third non-Italians we have met in Abruzzo this week who are looking to buy houses. I walk through town to find the old Jewish section, passing the main church with its very unusual open bell tower.
The town seems very quiet as I walk down and find the street sign Via Ghetto.
No other current traces or markers of the community remain in the town but searching online for "Jews in Guardiagrele" reveals that a significant number of Jewish families lived here, mostly between the 1300s and the 1500s. As in other areas, they were artisans and craftsmen--such as tanning and dyeing--as well as money lenders. After the Spanish Inquisition reached southern Italy, the community was expelled and never returned.
However, during World War II after Italy entered the war as a German ally, Abruzzo was the site of many of the "free" internment camps in Italy, where Jews and other "subversives" were exiled to the countryside. Guardiagrele was the site of one of the camps and there is some controversy about whether local residents provided food, shelter, and other assistance to the refugees.
We have lunch in an attractive cafe--the Caff&Mercato. The food is good--mortadella sandwich for Diana and a dish of cavatelli with broccoli and guanciale for me. The design of the cafe is unusual and whimsical. The bathroom features these posters on the wall
and the dining room has a large map of the world on the wall, with Guardiagrele's position clearly noted.
After lunch, we take a long route up the mountain to the Passo di Lanciano looking for more striking views. However, the road up to the pass is almost completely tree-lined, blocking any possibility of seeing the views. At the top which is at 4,000 feet, we find a few hotels, restaurants, and a ski lift. The descent on the other side of the mountain is quite different: no trees and broad vistas of the snow-capped mountains and the green valley.
Back in town, it's time for another load of laundry. The laundromat is on the other side of Chieti in a busy commercial section behind the Duomo. The laundromat is very modern and has a friendly attendant to assist us. A computer screen controls the machines and even accepts credit cards--a first for us. I go to find a parking space--it takes two circuits of the area before I see a car pulling out.
NOTE: There is a joke in the movie Johnny Stecchino with Roberto Benigni to the effect that the biggest problem in Palermo is the traffic, not the Mafia. In Chieti, the problem isn't so much traffic; it's the lack of parking spaces. In Chieti, every available possible space is filled with cars, whether marked for parking or not, whether on the sidewalk or double-parked. Despite all this, the Italians seem to have an uncanny knack for leaving just enough space for traffic to navigate the narrow openings.
Diana works on her quilt as she usually does when at a laundromat.
We have dinner at a very attractive restaurant just down the street: the Trattoria Moderna. It is anything but a traditional Abruzzese place - very stylish and bright.
The staff is very friendly and English-speaking. The chef is from Pescara but has worked all over the world including some time in Thailand. The menu is pan-Italian. Diana orders tonarelli alla gricia (guanciale and cheese) - a Roman dish that one wouldn't normally order outside of Lazio - that is both attractive and delicious. I have a tortelloni dish from with tomato sauce from Bologna, and we then split the house speciality: an enormous piece of veal alla milanese served with the bone.
We drink a very nice Tuscan red wine to complete the culinary journey around Italy.
We are very satisfied on the short walk back to our hotel.
Tomorrow, our plan is to visit the two archaeological museums in Chieti.
Jim and Diana
Zurers in Italy 2026
Tuesday: 19 May: Day 22: Chieti
This is our Chieti archaeological museums morning and after breakfast, we get in the car and head for the one in the Villa Frigerj (pronounced Free-Jerry). The museum is located deep inside a park and the entrance is not obvious. Additionally, we must navigate the large weekly market which is in full swing and increases both car and foot traffic in the area.
The museum mostly focuses on the pre-Roman history of the Chieti area. There are a number of school groups also visiting the museum but we are taken in hand by one of the staff--Matteo--who explains the collections, gives us advice on our route, escorts us to the elevator, and promises to check back with us during our visit if we have any questions.
The museum is very well organized chronologically, and most exhibit descriptions include excellent English translations. Like many archaeological museums we have visited, the amount of detail and the number of exhibits are overwhelming, and as laymen, we can't take it all in.
However, we do focus on some of the highlights of the collection. This small bronze statue of Hercules is a replica of a 4th century BC and was found in Sulmona. It is considered a rare, high-quality example of bronze sculpture from that period.
The most important exhibit is a colossal limestone sculpture of "The Warrior of Capestrano". Here is a brief explanation of the statue's significance from Italy Magazine.
The Warrior of Capestrano is a statue found by chance in 1934 by a local farmer as he was planting a vineyard. The statue, which also goes by the name of Nevio Pompuledio, dates back to the mid-sixth century BC and represents a male figure with his arms folded over his chest, wearing a military costume and a large wide-brimmed hat.
Today the statue, symbol of the Gran Sasso National Park and emblem of Abruzzo, is preserved in the National Museum of Archeology in Chieti. A life-size reproduction of the Warrior is placed in the hall of the Piccolomini Castle in Capestrano, which belonged for some time to the Medici family, and is the main monument of the village.
The inscription on the statue reveals that Nevio Pompuledio, who lived in the 6th century BC, was one of the last kings who ruled the ancient people of Abruzzo, the Vestini, who were later conquered by the Romans. The sculpture was carved from a single block of limestone and is more than two meters high, excluding the base. It originally stood on top of his burial mound.
It is so important that it is set in a specially designed exhibit hall just for the sculpture, and the display is exceptionally dramatic.
A related piece is a fragment of a smaller sculpture believed to be the warrior's wife. It is displayed on a turntable so you can get a 360 degree view.
I was also very impressed with the displays of elaborate funeral beds from the 2nd century BC made of bone and decorated with elaborate carvings.
The school children seem to have longer attention spans than we do.
We decide to postpone visiting the other archaeological museum--La Civitella--built on the site of a Roman amphitheater, until tomorrow. Instead, we drive to the coast south of Pescara to see the Costa dei Trabocchi. Trabocchi are the traditional fishing structures of the Abruzzo region. They are built out over the water and fishing is done with huge nets called traboccheti. Now the trabocchi are protected as historical monuments and many have been turned into restaurants featuring fresh seafood.
The coast is quite striking.
and this is a picture of a portion of the Via Verde, a recently built hiking and bicycle trail that stretches for 26 miles along the water.
We stop at an overlook on a promontory to admire the view and discovered that this is a "parco lettarario" (literary park) commemorating the Italian poet and patriot Gabriele d'Annunzio, who lived here in the late 19th century.
Across the road, we see an appealing restaurant called Il Promontorio and decide to go in and have a late lunch. Only one other table is occupied, and we are seated and proceed to have a terrific lunch. We shared a plate of crudo (raw ombrina) dressed with delicious olive oil which we mopped up with the bread. My plate of spaghetti alle vongole is exceptional and Diana says that her orata in a pistachio crust is one of the best things she has eaten on the trip. She has a chocolate cigar with gelato for dessert and I have an okay panna cotta. A couple of glasses of white wine perfectly complement the meal. Another example of finding a winner without planning.
Another night with no dinner....just a snack and a glass of prosecco at a local bar.
Tomorrow we will have lunch with friends in Ascoli Piceno, about an hour away in Le Marche.
Jim and Diana
Pauline
Forums Admin
What a beautiful statue!
Zurers in Italy 2026
Wednesday: 20 May: Day 23: Chieti
Our last day in Chieti; we have really enjoyed the city and the area.
Today we are having lunch in Ascoli Piceno with our friends Bryan and Valerie Schneider; they are American expats whom we met through our Italian travel connections. Before heading north, we stop in Pescara, the large city on the coast. The city has built a new pedestrian-bike bridge right on the Adriatic and I thought it would be fun to walk on it.
We have to park on the lungomare and are surprised to see so many spaces available immediately adjacent to the bridge.
Photo from the City of Pescara web page
Diana makes it a short way up and calls it a day.
But I continue to the highest point of the span and enjoy the views over the city and the very extensive beach area of Pescara.
It looks like the bridge is popular with joggers, walkers, bikers, and Pescara residents just wanting to cross the canal without going further into the city.
Our route to the autostrada takes us along the beachfront for four or five miles; the whole stretch is lined on one side with beach "stabilimenti", restaurants, and bars as well as a couple of strips of public beach, and on the other side an unbroken line of apartment buildings with water views.
The drive to Ascoli Piceno takes just over an hour and we meet Valerie and Bryan at the Public Gardens. We walk a couple of blocks to the restaurant they chose and enjoy reminiscing; we have known them for more than twenty years. Unfortunately, we forgot to take a photo.
We take some back roads on the way back to Chieti. The Abruzzo countryside is lovely: rolling hills in many shades of green, dotted with vineyards and olive groves. It is a nice alternative to the autostrada.
Back in Chieti, we make the trek to the other archaeological museum--La Civatella. It's located at the highest point of the town and incorporates the amphitheater into its collection. It is mainly focused on the Roman period but other sections highlight the original inhabitants of the area--the Marinucci tribe--as well as the history of modern Chieti.
The museum is quite striking, with vast, open exhibit halls filled with reconstructions of some of the temples found in Teate, the Roman name for Chieti.
The exhibits are beautifully presented and there are excellent English translations of the explanations.
The amphitheater is still being used at times for performances and the views of the mountains are stunning.
We have dinner at the Osteria 35, just around the corner from our "home" in Chieti. It turns out to be a strange experience. We seem to be on a different wavelength than the staff; just ordering water and our dinner becomes challenging. And the service during our meal is off. We sense that we are being ignored as our empty dishes from our first course remain on the table while the waiters rush back and forth around the dining room. A further issue is not the fault of the restaurant. We picked a table in the far corner of the room thinking it would be quiet. But we didn't notice the adjacent table set for eight people. In the middle of our meal, a group of eight men came in and sat there. A party of eight in a restaurant is bound to be noisy and a group of eight Italians is no exception. They seem to be having a wonderful time but it does make conversation difficult for us.
The food is actually pretty good...a tartare and a spinach flan for Diana, a local lamb soup (pecora alla callora) and a fettuccine abruzzese (guanciale, pecorino, onions, and basil) for me. No dessert--we are ready to leave.
Tomorrow we leave Chieti for L'Aquila, about two hours away - our last stop on this trip before heading home.
Jim and Diana
Zurers in Italy 2026
Thursday: 21 May: Day 24: Chieti-L'Aquila
Before leaving Chieti, we take a last stroll up the Corso Marruccino, then pack up and start our drive to L'Aquila.
Our stay at Central Suites mostly worked out despite some of the establishment's shortcomings. Certainly the location was terrific, the bed was comfortable, and we had lots of privacy since there were few if any other guests.
We have a lovely drive to L'Aquila on local roads. We are surrounded by high mountains with snow capped peaks; the hillsides are covered in many different shades of green. The poppies are everywhere as well as the yellow ginestre (broom). The roads are in good shape as we alternately climb steep grades and then descend. (Since we have a hybrid, I avidly watch our range increase when going downhill which then decreases as we climb.)
We easily find our hotel, a modern building close to the public gardens. The room is small but comfortable and we discover that we also have a balcony. After getting settled, I find a place to get a sandwich just up the street. My main concern about L'Aquila was whether it was too hilly for comfortable walking. The restaurant is very close to the hotel but the first part of the walk involves a steep uphill climb on uneven pavement which challenges Diana. She is a trouper, and we make it to the restaurant. However, while we are enjoying our sandwiches, it starts to sprinkle, so we move inside to finish them. We get a little damp on the walk back to the hotel. So much for buying an umbrella.
I take my exploratory walk to get oriented. I first walk through some of the back streets and find that once on top of the hill, the terrain is mostly level. But I am concerned that the neighborhood seems pretty gritty. I am very happy to discover that one block in the other direction, there is a broad, nicely paved, very impressive pedestrian street with grand buildings, restaurants, and shopping.
The Piazza Duomo is a very large, sloping square
The Duomo sits at the lower end and is covered with scaffolding.
We had visited L'Aquila in 1999 before the devastating earthquake of 2009 which destroyed much of the city. In fact, the city is quite unrecognizable to me. The Piazza Duomo was a parking lot when we visited twenty-seven years ago. Now it is a handsome square with easy access to a second church and two impressive fountains.
As I continue my walk, the extent of the earthquake's devastation is clear. Many buildings are still covered in scaffolding and others are still await repairs. Cranes are visible everywhere in town.
Even in a piazza that looks untouched, the cranes hover in the background.
For dinner, I find a restaurant just a block from the hotel. Dinner at La Grotta di Aligi Osteria is fine. We split a plate of salume and delicious cheese. I have a local pasta dish called chitarra del pastore with pecorino, ricotta, and guanciale and Diana has gnocchi with a tomato sauce. The local red wine is very drinkable.
Back at the hotel, we watch some television before bed. Tomorrow we will explore L'Aquila.
Jim and Diana
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Zurers in Italy 2026
Friday: 22 May: Day 25: L'Aquila
A beautiful morning--sunny, bright, but a bit cool. Breakfast at the hotel is excellent - even the coffee is to my liking. Our first excursion is a climb up the hill on the broad, well-paved pedestrian street to the Piazza Duomo; it is still a steep hill but much easier to navigate than the uneven back streets.
We sit on a wall and watch the workmen scramble up and down the scaffolding on the Duomo's facade.
I walk into the other church--Santa Maria del Suffragio or Animi Santi--on the piazza. (Diana remains intrigued by the crane and the workers.) The church is famous as the symbol of the 2009 earthquake because the collapse of its dome was captured on live television.
We then get in the car and drive up to the Spanish Fort, which now houses the Museo Nazionale d'Abruzzo (MuNDA). Zurer parking karma kicks in, and I pull into a space right at the entrance. We cross the moat and enter under the grand main gate.
The museum is a delight. The first section deals with the history of the Fort and its impact on the city. A sophisticated video program, projected across three walls, is elaborate and informative.
The fort was actually built by the Spanish occupiers in the 16th century to dominate the local population rather than to protect the city from outside enemies.
An entire room of the museum is devoted to L'Aquila's "Mammut", a nearly completely preserved, 1.5-million-year-old skeleton of the Mammuthus meridionalis (Southern mammoth). It is really quite astonishing and the explanations about its 1954 discovery and subsequent reconstruction are fascinating.
The rest of the museum focuses on the art of the L'Aquila area from the 12th century onward. The rooms are beautifully designed and the installations are superb. The museum has an important collection of painted wooden madonnas
and many paintings and altarpieces from churches in the area.
All in all, it is a terrific museum and we really enjoyed our visit.
I walk around the massive fort; unfortunately the battlements are not open for visiting.
It's time for lunch and Diana comes up with an appealing place to get a porchetta sandwich--La Porchetta di Gianni. We drive through a commercial section of the city and discover that we had passed this place on our way into town yesterday. Gianni's is a large food truck set up in a dusty parking lot filled with cars and trucks.
This photo was taken after the lunchtime crush; when we arrived, it was very crowded and challenging to place an order. But the wait was worth it; the sandwiches were among the best we have had. We hope to return before we leave L'Aquila.
After lunch, Diana sits in the sun on our terrace while I go out to explore some more. I do find the remnants of the medieval Jewish quarter
some very steep hills
an impressive church (San Bernardino) with commanding views over the countryside
a fountain that is a symbol of L'Aquila
the new auditorium designed by Renzo Piano
a building covered with scaffolding in the midst of being rebuilt
and a peaceful piazza with a fountain.
Later in the afternoon, we drive out to see two of the remaining Roman sites--the theater and amphitheatre of Amiternum.
At the theater, the charming guide gives us an indepth history of the site. It was built in the 1st century BC and seated over 2,000 spectators.
The amphitheatre, located a short drive away, was built in the 1st century AD and seated 6000.
For dinner, I chose the closest restaurant to the hotel but still up the steep backstreet hill. After a confusing start--there is no record of my reservation even thought there is only one other table occupied--all works out well. The meal is a mixed success; we learn that crudo al coltello (hand carved prosciutto) is hard to maneuver compared to when it is sliced thin on a machine. So while Diana's melon is very good, she leaves most of the prosciutto on the plate. The same happens with my grilled scamorza cheese with crudo al coltello; I find it very challenging to cut so most of it is left uneaten. Our pasta dishes are just fine.
We do have a very nice exchange with the proprietor before we leave, which makes up for some of the disappointment with the food and the earlier confusion.
Tomorrow we will take a guided tour of the city in a golf cart.
Jim and Diana
Zurers in Italy 2026
Saturday: 23 May: Day 26: L'Aquila
Another nice, sunny, crisp morning...
This morning, we arranged a ninety minute guided tour of L'Aquila in a glorified golf cart that can easily navigate the narrow, hilly streets of the historic center.
We are the only ones on the tour this morning. The driver/guide Matteo gives us a running commentary - in English - as he takes us to all the major sites in the city. We learn a lot about the history of L'Aquila and get a closeup view of the progress of the recovery from the 2009 earthquake. The most important monument in the city is the Fountain of the 99 Cannelle which commemorates the city's consolidation from 99 villages, in the late 13th century.
There are 99 heads (all different) that spout water but in fact the number of villages at the beginning was only about 70.
We learn about Celestine V, the first pope to ever resign. He was an eighty year old local hermit priest who was elected pope in the 13th century after two years without a pope, as a compromise candidate. He promoted "the perdonenza Celestino" (the Celestine pardon) - a yearly jubilee in L'Aquila in 1294 that granted pardons to anyone who visited the Basilica of Collemaggio, confessed and repented. Unlike the former practice of indulgences, this pardon cost the repentant nothing. The current practice of a Jubilee Year stems from his innovation.
The Basilica where he was inducted as Pope is a vast, very simple but impressive building with little ostentation. (Pictures will appear in an upcoming report). We pass the Spanish fort, the Basilica of San Bernadino and the Church of San Silvestre. The local patron of the San Silvestre church was a good friend of the painter Raphael and endowed one of his paintings to be displayed in one of the chapels. The Spanish took it during their occupation and it now hangs in the Prado in Madrid. Since L'Aquila is designated as the Italian Capital of Culture in 2026, the painting will be returned and displayed in the city for three months this summer.
Walking back to the hotel, we go into a "gastronomia" where the owner has waved to us each time we passed by. He is quite charming and in the course of our conversation, when Diana tells him our ages, he beams and says that he is eighty-eight. He makes us a mortadella and cheese sandwich which we eat in the nearby Public Gardens.
Our afternoon excursion is a drive to the city of Sulmona about an hour away from L'Aquila. We make a quick stop in the village of Civitaretenga, which has preserved the Jewish quarter of the village that dates from the 14th century, even before the ghetto in Venice was established. We drive into town and find the Via Guidea but find the buildings covered with scaffolding. The sign describing the construction says that the project "is for the recovery of the medieval complex of Via Guidea, the ghetto."
So when we come back in a few years, we will be able to visit the "reborn" Jewish ghetto of Civitaretenga.
The drive to Sulmona is very scenic for the first half--the usual mountain vistas, green fields, poppies, and yellow broom--but the last half is through less beautiful countryside. Sulmona, however, is a gem. Our first encounter is with the massive central plaza, which has a Roman aqueduct at one end.
We stop for an orange juice and to do some shopping, before walking under the aqueduct and up into the attractive main street, the Corso Ovidiana, named for the poet who was born here.
Lots of people are out walking, sitting in cafes, or on the sidewalks enjoying their gelato.
Sulmona is famous for "confetti" which are sugared coated almonds (Jordan almonds in the U.S.) They are traditionally thrown (like rice) at the bride and groom at weddings. Confetti has become a major industry in the town and there are numerous shops on the main street
that sell the candy either individually
or as "flower bouquets".
We sit on a bench people watching and I decide to have a gelato.
A few views of the town....
It looks like a place where we might consider staying on a future trip.
We drive back to L'Aquila the long way on the autostrada....the scenery is again spectacular--snow capped mountain tops and green forested mountainsides with virtually no towns in sight.
Dinner is terrific...we drive about five minutes out of town to Il Corridore, a trattoria listed in my favorite restaurant guide, the Osterie d'Italia. When I tell the hotel boss where we are going to eat, he gives us a thumbs up.
We are the first diners to arrive at 8 pm but the charming English-speaking waiter makes us feel very comfortable. The food is excellent; Diana really likes her "nidi" (nests) with pecorino and honey. I have a bowl of tripe in tomato sauce. My pasta is anellini (pasta rings--a new shape to me) with guanciale and vegetables--very tasty--and Diana orders a favorite dish of hers--lamb chops "scottadito" (burn your fingers). Desserts are also good--a cherry crostata and a semi-freddo. The wine--a local Montepulciano d'Abruzzo--goes down very easily. We would love to come back here for another meal.
It's an easy and happy drive back to the hotel.
Tomorrow is culture day...an art exhibition and a chamber music concert.
Jim and Diana
Pauline
Forums Admin
I love aqueducts! Great photos. I feel like I am there with you (instead of sweltering in Baden-Baden).
We wish you were here also. Thanks. It will be hot today in Rome.
Zurers in Italy 2026
Sunday 24 May: Day 27: L'Aquila
Another beautiful day in L'Aquila. Though it hasn't been as warm as we would have liked, we have had very little rain and only a few overcast days. It looks like we will get the hot weather with a vengeance when we return home on Wednesday.
The modern art museum in L'Aquila--MAXXI (affiliated with the Rome gallery)--has an important show of works by Ai Weiwei. According to the Gemini AI engine "he is one of the most celebrated and influential contemporary artists, designers, and political activists alive today. Born in Beijing in 1957, he merges conceptual art and traditional Chinese craftsmanship with a radical commitment to human rights, freedom of expression, and the denunciation of totalitarian regimes." The museum is housed in a handsome palazzo in the historic center, one that was heavily damaged in the 2009 earthquake and the rebuilding was supported by the Russian government.
I decide to try and drive from the hotel to MAXXI through the narrow streets of medieval L'Aquila. The route is clear on the GPS so how hard could it be? I learned my lesson pretty quickly. The GPS was not able to track our route and basically went haywire. I ended up going in circles having to make impossibly sharp turns around corners when streets were blocked off. The situation worsened because some streets were closed for a half-marathon held in the center of town. I finally emerge onto a "main" street by going past a barrier only to be held up by a police officer telling me to wait until the runners go past. I escape through one of the town gates and continue our drive outside the historic center. I have to admit that the experience was a bit nerve-wracking.
We make it to the Fontana Luminosa
at the other edge of the historic center (only a few minutes' walk to the museum), I drop Diana off and try to find parking. This is another challenge and, after a few circuits of the neighborhood, I decide to act like an Italian driver. I park (with many other cars) on the side of the traffic circle that goes around the fountain. It's not a parking space but as I often like to say "In Italy, if it's possible it's legal."
The show is really amazing. It is called "Aftershock" and it is a selection of works from his entire career. We weren't very familiar with Ai Weiwei's work, but we were immediately impressed with his ingenuity, political passion, and sense of humor. The show is hung beautifully, taking full advantage of the magnificent rooms of the Palazzo Ardinghelli. He works in many different materials, including toy bricks, buttons, and found objects. I won't try to explain the show's contents, but here are some of his creations that impressed us most.
A collection of rebars--part of his commemoration of Chinese earthquake victims and his criticism of the shoddy building standards of the Chinese government.
A picture made of toy bricks (Legos?) commenting on the death of a young African on a Sicilian beach after his boat sank.
Some button art....
Another toy brick "painting" which is unambiguous.
We have lunch at the Agriturismo Cupello about a half-hour from L'Aquila. Again, we are the first diners but we are welcomed warmly.
The room is set up for a large party celebrating a first communion but no one has yet arrived. Another family group joins us in the dining room. They are friends of the owners and there is much kissing and embracing before they are seated. As is common in Italy, they greet us before they sit down.
It is a very pleasant lunch in the country, I have a lentil soup to start (the lentils are grown right on the property) and we have two very good pasta dishes complemented by a few glasses of local red wine. By the time we are ready to leave, the communion party is starting to arrive.
Back in L'Aquila, I go out to scout the location of the chamber music concert we will go to later. As I approach the Piazza Duomo, the sound of drumming gets louder and louder. On the piazza, there is a competition of flag throwers (sbandieratori) from various towns in the area. There is a large, enthusiastic crowd-many friends and family-encircling the performers so it is hard to get good pictures.
The chamber music concert is being held in the private chapel of one of the important L'Aquila families. It is part of a day when many of the palazzi in town are open for visiting. The Oratorio di Sant'Antonio dei Cavalieri de Nardis is an example of high baroque style and is very well preserved; apparently it suffered minimal damage from the 2009 earthquake.
The performers are four young musicians and the unusual program features different composers who incorporated folk music into a classical format.
First, they play some Bartok Romanian Folk Dances, followed by works by an Italian-Brazilian composer--N. di Giovanni--and a Danish Quartet's composition based on an English folk tune. A Suite by British composer John Rutter uses familiar sea shanties and folk dances as themes for the work. It is an unusual program but we are glad to have come, especially given the grand setting. We had expected some attempt to highlight Abruzzese folk music in the program but that didn't happen.
No dinner tonight. We watch a couple of episodes of the British crime show Criminal Record.
Tomorrow we plan to drive into the mountains - the Gran Sasso d'Italia.
Jim and Diana
Ian Sutton
1000+ Posts
Always enjoy watching the flag throwing, and it seems widely performed (aka any excuse to dust the flags off!)
Whilst it's true there is a tendency to utilise unofficial gaps to park cars (amongst other non-legal road practices), they do always seem to apply common sense, and never block in or delay other drivers. Just a very practical mindset. I appreciate it.
Whilst it's true there is a tendency to utilise unofficial gaps to park cars (amongst other non-legal road practices), they do always seem to apply common sense, and never block in or delay other drivers. Just a very practical mindset. I appreciate it.
Hi Ian. I agree 100%. No matter how the cars are strewn about on the street, I have never seen a street blocked to traffic. I think it has something to do with Italian hand/eye coordination and spatial relations.
Zurers in Italy 2026
Monday: 25 May: Day 28: L'Aquila
First on today's agenda (after breakfast of course) is our final visit to a laundromat on this trip. The closest to the hotel is another ultra-modern facility located in a small shopping center not five minutes from the hotel. It features a computer screen payment scheme, brand-new machines, and an underground parking garage; the only drawback is the Wi-Fi doesn't work.
Of course, Diana passes the time piecing her quilt.
We return to La Porchetta di Gianni for lunch. The porchetta sandwiches are still excellent. After the sandwiches, we decide to take a ride into the mountains. The mountains around L'Aquila are the third highest in Italy, after the Italian Alps and Mount Etna in Sicily, topping out at over 9,000 feet. The most scenic part of the trip is the drive across the Alpine meadow from the Capanelle Pass to Fonte Cerreto; the road reaches an elevation of over 4,000 feet. Some of the peaks top 8,000 feet.
The road is in excellent shape, so we drive slowly and stop often to take pictures. There are very few cars, a number of motorcycles, some hardy bicyclists, and a couple of hikers. The only wildlife we see (despite the signs warning that animals may be crossing the road) is a small herd of horses
and some cows that are very adept at avoiding having their picture taken.
Here are some of the scenic views along the drive.
And one of the mad photographer...
Back in L'Aquila, I take my final walk around town and stop for a more thorough visit at the impressive Basilica of Collemaggio.
Leaving the church, I walk through what appears to be an abandoned hospital campus, I come across a community of trailers and small houses; many are painted with vivid scenes and political quotations.
I have stumbled into what is called the "casematte". The straightforward meaning is bunker or pillbox but it also translates to mad houses. I turn to the internet for more information.
CaseMatte is a well-known, self-managed social and cultural space located in the former psychiatric hospital complex of Collemaggio in L'Aquila, Italy. Since its establishment following the devastating 2009 earthquake, the collective has transformed the abandoned area into a vibrant grassroots hub for youth, community, and political activism. While the site has sometimes faced institutional challenges regarding its physical use, the project remains an enduring symbol of urban resilience and community solidarity in the recovering historical city.
I would like to learn more about this intriguing social movement but we leave town tomorrow.
For dinner, we return to La Grotta di Aligi Osteria where we ate on our first night in L'Aquila. One point in its favor is that it is an easy walk from our hotel; another is that we liked our meal there. And dinner tonight works out very well indeed. Many restaurants in L'Aquila are closed on Mondays so we were not the first or only diners. We have two excellent antipasti; a dish called pizza frita (fried dough) served with prosciutto (what could be bad?) and a local speciality called cacio e ove--cheese and egg balls deep-fried and served with a tomato sauce. Diana has chitarra (thin pasta) del pastore (guanciale, pecorino, and ricotta) and I have the chitarra with tiny meatballs in a red sauce. We both enjoy our dishes. Dessert is also a hit; a chocolate cake with soft chocolate filling for Diana and very good panna cotta for me. We are getting very attached to the local red wine - Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. And the final point in its favor: the bill for this feast comes to Euro 56.00 (about $65.00 US).
It's an easy walk back to the hotel. We say goodnight to Dino, the boss, who is watering the plants in the lobby; he has been so friendly and helpful during our stay.
Tomorrow we check out and drive to Rome; our flight home is on Wednesday.
Jim and Diana
PS: While Diana has been my trusty editor and proofreader, she wants to add some final points here:
1. Italy remains as beautiful and interesting and appealing to us as ever.
2. I was anxious about falling, especially with so much uneven pavement, but I never did. Yay!
I did walk at least 2 miles every day, which for me is good. Also Yay!
3. In our experience, hotels now combine shampoo and liquid soap in one container in the shower. And no more give-away bars of soap or body lotion. If you care, bring your own. (We do.)
4. Jim has been indefatigable. What follows is highly confidential. Do not tell anyone. He took two naps during this trip.
5. I'm not reading as much as I used to. This trip I've been reading The Three Roosevelts by James MacGregor Burns and Susan Dunn. Excellent. Halfway through. 1,389 pp on my phone.
6. Many Italians we encounter speak some English. Our Italian gets compliments, but after 33 years of coming here, it should be better.
7. We were always asked where we're from and my answer always included a comment about you know who. 99% of the Italians we engaged with on this topic share our view of Trump.
8. Trash and recycling are taken seriously in Italy. In the apartment we rented, gargage bins identified what went where by color. They weren't labeled - I had to look it up.
- Paper/Cardboard (Blue)
- Glass (Green / White)
- Plastic & Metal Packaging (Yellow)
- Organic / Food Waste (Brown or Green
- Residual / General Waste (Gray / Black / Red / Other):
10. We eat out infrequently at home. We ate out every day in Italy. It worked out just fine.
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We enjoy your reports and great photos! Makes us eager to return, the North, South or Central. just need to go!
Fyi, I am a Nats fan too, grew up watching the Senators until the unfortunate move to Texas. On my desk is a signed ball from Frank Howard, great ole days! Cheers!
Fyi, I am a Nats fan too, grew up watching the Senators until the unfortunate move to Texas. On my desk is a signed ball from Frank Howard, great ole days! Cheers!