A week in the Cantal, September 2012

[Eleanor]

TO THE WEST OF CASSANIOUZE - CAPDENAC-LE-HAUT

Capdenac le Haut is a tourist honey pot village, about 4km south east of Figeac and is again, listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Tourist Information in Figeac have a leaflet in French with information and a guided walk around the settlement.

It is built in a commanding position above a loop in the River Lot. There is the compulsory, and very large, visitors car park outside village. We visited on a Monday when everything was shut (bakers, restaurants, tourist information and museum) but it did have the advantage of there not being many people around.

There has been a settlement here since neolithic times. The peninsula is surrounded by steep cliffs and there are spectacular views from the top.

The town had been a Celtic hill fort, Roman settlement and was an walled town in medieval times with a C13th donjon, fortified gates and ramparts. Once the railway arrived at Capdenac-Gare, the centre of settlement moved down here. This is a large rather uninspiring town and can be missed.

The remains of the circling walls can still be seen and there are still four old gateways through them.

The medieval street layout still exists with picturesque narrow streets lined with tall houses built from the local limestone with low pitched red tile roofs.

In the centre is a large square with the Marie, church, pigeon loft and the donjon. Behind is a smaller square lined with timber frame houses. At the southern end of the settlement near Porte Narbonnaise was a C14/15th Leprosy hospital.

The donjon is a a massive square tower with a crenellated top. It was built in the C12th and enlarged in the C14th, serving a military function.

The ground floor is now the Tourism office and there is a small museum of local finds on the upper floors. Entry to the museum also gives access to the Fountaine des Anglais which is dug out of the cliff face below the walls and once supplied water to the town. Access is through a locked door and down 100 steps.

ÉGLISE ST-JEAN-BAPTISTE is a C17th building on the site of a C13th church which was badly damaged during the Wars of Religion. It is a plain stone building with a short offset square tower. Entry is through the south door which has pillars supporting a portico with a small statue of John the Baptist.

The church is very dark inside as there is only one nave window. It is built in the Romanesque style of architecture with round arches and vaulted ceiling. It feels more like a C13th building than a C17th one.

At the west end is an old stone font and an C18th organ. The wall mounted carved wooden pulpit has carvings of the four evangelists on the base with a carving of Christ on the back wall.

A niche in the north wall of the nave dated 1599 has a large lidded copper vessel with a small cross on the lid. There was, however, no indication what its purpose might have been.

In a recess on the south wall is a small carving of the flight into Egypt - a survival of the earlier church?

There is an ancient stone statue of Mary holding the dead body of Christ. Above a small doorway in the south aisle leading to the sacristy is a carved wood head of Christ with a crown of thorns.

The ornate high altar is covered with gilt carvings and has a large painting of the Crucifixion set in a gilt frame. Above is a small picture of a shepherd boy with a lamb with a carving of God the Father above this. On the side walls are two high backed chairs with red velvet cushions and misericords under the seats.

There is another splendid retable above the altar in the south transept with a gilt statue of the Virgin with the Christ Child surrounded by cherubs and scrolls. Nearby on a carved wooden stand is an old wooden reliquary statue of St Joseph, containing a few teeth.

The north transept has a wall mounted slab of stone serving as an altar with a crucifix and tall candlesticks.

There is a statue of John the Baptist carrying a cross with a lamb at his feet and a small round fresco on ceiling.

A door off the chancel leads into the small stone CHAPELLE ST-GERAUD. This has an old stone slab altar with very old carving of Christ crucified (minus arms and cross) on wall above. On the rear wall is carving of St Gérard carrying a model of a church.

We enjoyed Capdenac-le-Haut, possibly because we had the place to ourselves. Judging by the size of the car park, it probably does get very busy and may not be as nice...

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - SOUCEYRAC

I had read that Souceyrac was a fortified medieval town built round the church. We parked in the large market place surrounded by rather uninspiring C18/19th stone and plaster buildings and looked at each other. This didn’t fit the description. Fortified by a hunk of baton and a banana we went to investigate. What a find.

Tucked away round the church is a tiny fortified town with the remains of two fortified C12th stone gateways.

Inside there are narrow cobbled streets lined with C15/16th houses.

Many had a barn or storage area on the ground floor with a flight of stone steps leading up to the living quarters.

ÉGLISE ST-MARTIN is C19th and is much larger than the original church, extending beyond the line of the town walls.

There is a large square tower at the west end with a spire which has smaller spires on the corners. Round staircases on either side give access to the bell chamber with its louvred windows. The nave walls and tower are heavily buttressed.

Inside it is has a huge cruciform building with a plain nave and chancel. Wall pillars support the ribs of the ribbed and vaulted ceiling.There are large transepts which have altars and statues.

The base of the walls is panelled and there are Stations of the Cross in heavy wood frames. The high altar has statues carved on the base and a small stone retable above. There are statues of St Michael killing the dragon and Joan of Arc on the side walls.

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - ST CÉRÉ

St-Céré was much larger than we expected from the guide books. It was busy with cars parked everywhere. The best views are from the bridge across the river where it does look attractive. On the hillside over looking the town are the ruins of the C12-C15th castle Saint-Laurent-les-Tours.

We found a space in Place de Republique, which is a large area with a lot of shops. The area around felt scruffy and run down with graffiti, dog dirt and pigeon droppings. There were also quite a number of teenagers hanging around.

The old town has narrow streets with even narrower alleyways off.

There were a few nice timber frame houses as well as some substantial stone houses with towers .

ÉGLISE ST-SPERIEN has an unusual bell tower with a large open porch beneath and dates back to the C10th. It was locked and there was no indication of where could get a key.

We felt this rather summed up St Céré. We felt it didn’t deserve the 1* given to it on the Michelin map and didn’t repay the time spent. Perhaps we didn’t see it at its best on a dull day and maybe it would be more attractive on a bright sunny day?

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - AUTOIRE

The best approach to Autoire is from the south along the D38. This drops steeply down from the limestone plateau to the top of Cirque d’Autoire, a semicircular gorge with massive limestone cliffs. There is a small car park and a rough track leads to a viewpoint of the canyon. The September after a dry summer, the waterfall was dry but there were good views of the cliff face and the road which is runs along a ledge cut out of the cliff face.

There are excellent views of Autoire set in fertile farmland at the bottom of the canyon.

There is little parking in the village but there is a large car park at the northern edge of the settlement.

Autoire is marketed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. It is surrounded by rich farmland with walnut orchards. Farms are large and have dove cots. It has a very prosperous feel.

It is a delightful village of old stone houses clustered round the church.

There is a small new development across the river which keeps the same architectural style of building. Many of the houses are quite substantial with turret staircases.

Tourism is an important source of income and there is a shop selling different varieties of dried mushrooms and a wine shop offering free tastings.

The late C15th Château de Limargue is on the southern edge of the village.

ÉGLISE ST-PIERRE is C11th and was fortified during the Hundred Years War. It suffered badly during the Wars of Religion and was restored in the C19th.

The church has a square tower above the transept with open bell windows and a low pointed roof. Two small brick towers give access to the tower. There is a round apse at the east end with carved stone corbels under the eaves. There are mainly faces and there is a lovely one of two figures cuddling.

The side aisles were added to the nave later.

The inside is a plain Romanesque building with round arches separate nave and side aisles.

Wall pillars with carved bases and capitals with faces and foliage, continue up to form the ceiling arches across the vaulted ceiling.

The transept is domed and surrounded by massive round arches.

There is a painting of the crucifixion above west door. The memorial stone to the dead of World War One has 31 names, many with the same surname.

The chancel apse has a simple wooden table altar and a wooden floor pulpit. Behind is a small crucifix and a statue of the Virgin Mary. The lower parts of the walls are covered with wooden panelling.

The small chapel on the north wall contains the font and has a simple table altar.

when we arrived mid afternoon, the car park was very busy, so we decided to carry on and visit Loubressac (#25) first. A sensible decision as by the time we returned late afternoon, the car park was virtually empty and there were few visitors around.

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH - LOUBRESSAC

Loubressac is another of the most beautiful villages in France. It is a short drive from Autoire (#24) through very fertile farmland with large dairy farms and orchards of walnut trees. There is a splendid view of the old town perched high on a rock from the D135 in the valley below.

It is a real honey pot with a large car park outside the old town, with the remains of the old well. It was busy mid afternoon with cars and coaches.

The old fortified town is built on the highest point around the château and church. The new town spreads below it to the south west. Houses have very similar architecture so blend in well. The Marie is a simple stone building with tiled roof. Next to it is the small Tourist Office who speak English and have a certain amount of information about Loubressac and Autoire. She was very apologetic it was all in French.

The old town is quite small and a pleasant place to wander. Two of the original gateways survive; archways under and between half timber frame houses with stone infill.

Streets are narrow and there are several splendid C15/16th stone houses and storage barns, which are now used as garages.

The château is C15th but is private. All that is visible are roof tops above the splendid fortified gateway.

There are two excellent viewpoints overlooking the Bave and Cère rivers and the Dordogne valley.

ÉGLISE ST-JEAN BAPTISTE is C13th and is a small rectangular building with a square tower with open bell windows and hipped roof. A round tower on the side gives access to the bell chamber.

Entry is through the west door, set beneath a small tile roof above. The side pillars are intricately carved with scallop shells (a sign of pilgrimage).

The tympanum has a small carved crucifix with St John and the Virgin Mary on either side. This was badly damaged in the Wars of Religion in the C16th. It is just possible to make out the images in the roundels on either side above the pillars of Adam with a fig leaf (right) and Eve being tempted by the serpent (left).

As soon as you enter your eyes are immediately drawn to the chancel apse separated from the nave by an ornate metal altar rail. The altar is covered with gilt and has the Lamb of God on the front. A massive retable takes up all of the back wall of the apse. In the centre is a scene of the crucifixion with the Virgin Mary and Mary Magdalene. On either side are gilded statues including St Roch, supported by gilt angels Above are roundels, one depicting the baptism of Christ. In the centre is a triangular top piece with cherubs heads and a small round window.

The vaulted chancel ceiling is dark blue with gold stars and roundels with painted heads. The ceiling ribs are painted with a pattern in navy blue, red and yellow.

The nave ceiling is pale blue with a pattern of darker blue stars. Ceiling ribs have carved bases and are also painted in blues yellows and reds as are the underside of the nave arches. This is a very colourful church.

There are altars in both transepts. That in the north transept has a statue of St Joseph with the Christ Child beneath a scallop shell.

That in the south transept has a statue of the Virgin holding a crowned baby Jesus.

At the back of the south aisle is a small chapel with a small font and slab alter painted to resemble dark marble. Above is a simple retable with a painting of two angels praying with cherub heads above. This has a beautiful blue ceiling with blue stars and ceiling ribs painted in shades of blue and green.

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - LAROQUEBROU

You won’t find Laroquebrou mentioned in the guide books and there isn’t a lot more on the web, apart from the yearly Boogie Woogie Festival. The municipal website concentrates on services and information for locals. This is not a place that markets itself to visitors, which is a good reason for visiting….

Laroquebrou is a delightful small town just off D120 west of Aurillac, with locals going about their every day business. It felt a busy and thriving place.

The road drops down into the town past the large and splendid stone and brick Republique Français Ecole de Files. There is plenty of parking in the large tree lined square next to the River Cère. There is a good selection of small shops along the main street, including an excellent bakers.

The town is dominated by the château built on a rocky promontory high above it. It is a triangular building with three round towers, logis and remains of a fourth tower. It is surrounded by a low curtain wall. It seems to have been built in the C12 or 13th, although the site may be older. On a smaller peak in front of it is a white statue of the Virgin Mary. The castle is unfurnished but hosts art exhibitions.

This had been a prosperous town in the middle ages and there are some nice old timber frame or stone merchants houses along rue Negerieu and rue Damont.

At the far end of the town is l’Hospice. The original building dates from 1300 and was restored in 1730.

ÉGLISE ST-MARTIN is most unusual with a variety of roof lines. The original building is C13th . The tower at the west end either collapsed or was demolished during the Revolution. All that remains is a small stub with louvred bell windows topped by spindly bell cote. At the east end is another small bell cote

The original circular tower giving access to the bell chamber still survives.

The outside of the church is heavily buttressed indicating stability may have been an issue. There are huge gargoyles taking water from the nave roof.

There is a large, modern sundial on the south wall. This doesn’t have a number 7. There are different mystical suggestions for this but a more mundane explanation may be that the sun’s shadow doesn’t hit the dial between 6pm and 8am.

It was a dull day and the church seemed dark inside as the only light in the nave coming from small windows along the top of the nave. This was one of the few times we needed to use flash to take pictures.

It is a very elegant church with pale stone walls and stone vaulted ceilings. At the back is a wooden gallery supported by solid wooden beams. The wood pulpit has carvings of the four evangelists and is topped by carved wooden spire.

Steps lead into the chancel which has an iron altar rail. The high altar has a decorative base with gilded carvings and cherubs at the corners. Above is an urn shaped gilt host box. On either side, three round pillars support winged angels with trumpets. The stained glass windows are colourful and modern.

There are five side chapels along each side of the church separated by massive stone walls with a pointed arch above. These, as well as the transepts, have beautifully carved wooden altars.

In the south transept is a small treasury in a glass case containing chalices, ostensoirs and communion plate.

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - GIRGOLS

The weather forecast was good and it looked like a reasonable morning, so we decided to head north of Aurillac to visit Salers (#31) and Puy Mary (#32). Beyond Aurillac, the cloud was well down on the mountains and it was trying to rain. We decided to have a look at some of the smaller settlements to give the cloud time to clear and the weather (hopefully) to improve. All were very different, and all well worth visiting.


First on the list was Girgols, having seen a sign for Église Romane off the main road (D922). We had learned that it was worth following signs like this for the undiscovered gems. It was a lovely drive through woodland and pasture with Salers cows and the constant sound of cow bells.

You won’t find Girgols in the guide books and apart from a few pictures, there is virtually nothing on the web. It is a tiny hamlet with a few old stone houses round the church and a small lavoir. A few houses are still lived in, but several are now derelict.

We parked on the road by the church which is reached along a grassy path. It was locked but we found someone working in one of the houses who told us that we could get the key from the big house with the black gate below the church. Madame came to unlock the church with a huge metal key and we were told to leave the door open.

ÉGLISE NOTRE-DAME DE LA NATIVITÉ is thought to have been built on a pagan site. It is a small rectangular building set in a round grassy enclosure with a stone wall. The church was originally the oratory of a priory attached to Aurillac. It has buttressed walls a stone slab roof and two bells in a cloche peigne at the west end. The sacristy on the north wall by the chancel was added later.

Entry is through the south door. The old wooden door has three small diamond windows in what would have been the tympanum. There is the remains of carving around the arches and the side pillars have carved capitals. Above is a later rectangular window with glazing bars, which we assume was part of the C19th modifications.

Immediately inside the door is a very old stone font.

On the west wall are the remains of old wooden pews, a casualty of the C19th renovations. Steps lead up to a wooden gallery across the west end.

The nave is later than the chancel and has a vaulted ceiling which was lowered in the C19th. Chandeliers provide light. There is a big carved wooden altar on the north wall and a wooden confessional on the south wall. Beautiful modern stained glass windows have scenes of the Annunciation, presentation of Jesus at the temple and the assumption of the Virgin Mary.

The chancel is tiny and is the original Roman apse. The remains of the round chancel arch is partially hidden by later additions to the nave. On either side of the chancel arch are small carved wood altars with wooden retables carved to resemble the east end of a Gothic style church. The south altar has a statue of Jesus clothed in red, blue and gold. The north aisle a statue of Notre-Dame de Lourdes. On the wall near it is a framed icon of the Virgin and Child. Between the altars is a simple free standing mass altar.

There is a stone bench round the base of the walls. Above this round pillars support blind round topped arches with statues of St Roch, Joseph and the young Jesus and St Peter. The white stone high altar has a blue marble effect front with a carving of a sheep on the base. There is a small retable with very decorative gilt host box. This has a pelican plucking her breast with three babies in the door.. Above are two cherub heads with garlands and a crucifix above. There are painted angels on either side of the altar.

This is a delightful church in a delightful setting.

 

[Eleanor]

TOTHE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - ST-CERNIN

St-Cernin is a pretty little village built of dark volcanic stone just off the D922 and set in rolling countryside of woodland and fields.

It is well cared for with hanging caskets of bright red geraniums on the lamp posts. It has a good range of shops and was busy with locals going about their business.

ÉGLISE ST-SATURNIN has a massive cloche peigne at the west end with four bells.

In 1865 a school was built onto the west end of building. There is a massive and possibly fortified porch over the south door. The south door and choir are C12th. The rest is C16th when the porch and side aisles were added.

The south door is set beneath round arches with the remains of carving and two pillars with carved capitals. Above is a beautiful semi-circular stained glass window.

It is quite dark inside the church. Near the door is a coin box. €1 gives 8 minutes lighting, much needed to see the detail.

There is an elaborately carved wooden door in the west wall with a double gallery above.

There is a simple nave with arches into the side aisles. There is a vaulted stone ceiling. The only light is through the small round topped windows in the side aisles and the even smaller round windows in the nave.

The chancel is narrower and lower than the nave. On the walls are tall backed choir stalls with carved misericords.

Above them on the north wall is a crucifix. The windows on the south wall are modern and have pictures of the Virgin and Child, God the Father and an abstract design.

Steps lead up to the high altar with an elaborately carved gilded host box with a crucifix above. Behind is a splendid curved retable. On the left is a gilt statue of St Peter with Bishop St Saturnin on the right. In the centre is a painting of the Risen Christ in Heaven surrounded by adoring angels.

Four round pillars support a canopy. This has arches with angels and red drapes surrounding the seated figure of God the Father surrounded by cherub heads. Above is a carving of the seated Christ holding a cup and a cross. Wooden doors on either side of the retable lead into the sacristy behind.

There are three chapels in the side aisles. These all have altars with either paintings or statues above.

This was another good visit as well s a reminder that there's a lot more to see than the tick list in the guide books...

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - ST-ILLIDE

St-Illide is another gem and again there is very little information about it on the web. It is a short drive to the west of St-Cernan and is built on top of a volcanic intrusion.

It is a small village with big Marie and Poste de Telegraphe building.

There is plenty of parking in the square with the war memorial. The church was locked but we got the key from the small general store across the road.

The CHURCH is late C11th and was a chapel linked with the Abbey of St Gerald of Aurillac. There were probably 10-12 monks based here under a prior. A small settlement gradually grew up under the shelter of the monks.

During the Revolution, three of the five bells were taken. Statues, altars and crucifixes were destroyed (apart from any that could be hidden). The church was restored and extended in the C19th, when the walls were whitewashed. Two bells added to the bell chamber and the gallery at the west end was added.

The church is a long, low, rather nondescript building from the outside with a small tower above transept, stone slab roof and side aisles. The square tower with pointed roof is typical of churches before the Revolution.

Entry is through the west door which has a simple round arch above it. At the back of the church is a modern font and a small confessional.

Inside round arches and massive pillars support the ceiling ribs of the barrel roof. The inside is painted white except for a gold, beige, red and green frieze round the top of the walls. There are statues of Joan of Arc, St Anne with the young Mary and a crucifix on the north wall. On the south wall are St Anthony of Padua, St Theresa and St Roch. By now we were getting very fond of all the different depictions of him with his dog.

The chancel arch has gilt statues of The Virgin and Child on the south side and a pilgrim with a cross on the north. The carved wood eagle lectern had a large hymn book with music. On the side walls are the old medieval choir stalls with misericords.

Behind is a splendid high altar with elaborate retable. The altar is C18 or C19th with a bulbous base with gilt and red decoration and a bishop’s mitre and crook in the centre. The urn shaped host box has a garland of grapes arch above it.

In the centre of the retable is a painting of Christ crucified set in a gold and red frame. On either side are barley corn twist pillars with gilt grapes and gilt carved tops. On the outside are statues of St Peter on the left and St Illide on the right. Above is a carved gilt and red frieze, with a carving of God the Father above holding an orb on a background of clouds with a sunburst around them.

The side chapels have carved wooden altars with a wooden reredos.and more old choir stalls.

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - ST-MARTIN-CANTALÈS

St Martin de Cantalès is a small hamlet of scattered houses around the church with no services apart from the Marie. Again it is ignored by the guide books and there is little information on the internet.

The CHURCH is surrounded by a grassy enclosure next to a farm. It has a square bell tower above transept and a small round apse at east end. Carved corbels support the eaves of the chancel. There is a large wooden shelter over the west door.

The windows of the church were covered with fibre glass on the outside which made then looked boarded up, so giving the impression the church was shut and unused. We nearly didn’t bothered to see if it was open.

The church has a typical Romanesque doorway with round pillars with carved capitals.

One of these has a shepherd holding a crook. The others have foliage designs. and round arches with a carved chequerboard pattern.

The door was open and there was a wooden railing across to stop animals entering the church.

Inside the doorway is a small stoup and a memorial to the dead of World War One with 22 names; a lot for a small settlement of around 500. At the back of the church are old benches with arms and head rests.

It is a very simple stone church with arches into the side chapels and a low wooden beamed ceiling. The stained glass windows have images of saints. There are statues on the walls and small framed carved Stations of the Cross. There is a framed icon the the Virgin and Child on the back wall.

The simple round chancel arch leads into the chancel. On either side are statues of St Martin and St Julien on the south.

The chancel is narrower than the nave and has an elaborate mass altar with gilt scrolls beneath it, silver candlesticks and a crucifix. Beyond is the tiny round apse with the high altar which has a wonderful gilded host box with a crucifix above it. On the east wall is a small round Romanesque stained glass window with a image of Christ, the Saviour of the World.

The two side chapels off the nave have bulbous base altars painted to resemble marble and large retables above. The north altar has a statue of the Virgin Mary holding the body of the crucified Christ.

The south altar has carvings of St Agnes and St Roch with a painting of an unidentified bishop.

This again is a very good example of not judging a place on first appearances.

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - SALERS

Salers is another of the most beautiful villages of France, gets 2* from Michelin and is popular with tourists. It is on the western edge of the volcanics of the Massif Central. A market town grew up round a hilltop château. This was fortified in the C15th and in the C16th became seat of the Balliwick of the Upper Mountains of the Auvergne. Important families settled in the town, building impressive turreted houses.

We parked in the large car park just off D680 at the bottom of town and walked up the hill to the old town past all the restaurants. It was very busy with at least two coach parties.

It is a town of cobbled streets, narrow alleyways and gateways through the walls.

Streets are lined with very tall houses built of dark stone, many with towers. On a dull day it could seem dour and forbidding.

There are a lot of eateries and tourist gift shops as well as a wide range of specialist shops selling hats, umbrellas, gloves, scarves, paintings… There is a wine shop, bakers (with tins and gift packs of biscuits) and an excellent cheese shop. The butchers shop sells jars of various unspecified animal parts which are a local delicacy.

In the main square is a statue of Tyssandier d’Escous, who was responsible for preserving the Salers cow. This is now seen throughout the region and produces a very good cheese.

ÉGLISE ST-MATTHEW is a large building in the centre of the old town with a large porch at the west end with a bell tower above and an attached smaller round tower giving access to the belfry.

Inside the porch is a splendid doorway with round pillars with carved capitals supporting a carved frieze and several round topped arches. The outer arch has carved panels with a flower design. Unfortunately it was locked with a sign saying shut for renovation.

At the end of Avenue de Barrouze is an excellent view point with views over wooded valleys to the Puys. Some of the valleys have quite wide and flat bottoms. Any flat land is good pasture with Salers (and other) cows. All the settlement is in the valley bottoms. The tops are left as rough grazing. The plateau is flat apart from the volcanic cones called Puys.

 

[Eleanor]

TO THE NORTH OF CASSANIOUZE - PUY MARY AND THE JORDANNE VALLEY

From Salers we drove up the D680 to Col de Neronne. The road runs along the side of the hill with superb views down into Maronne valley. This is very fertile pasture land with wooded slopes. There is a parking area above above Maison du Fromage de la Vache et de la Gentiane which is a good place to stop to take photographs. The fields are dotted with old stone field barns called Burons. These were used during the summer months when the cows grazed the high pastures, to make and store cheese.

Crossing the col, the road begins to drop down through the trees to the Mars Valley. There are glimpses of the valley through the trees, but nowhere to pull off and park. There is quite a bit of settlement along the top end of the valley bottom. This has very steep wooded sides with bare rocks. The road is very narrow with few passing places. We were in a convoy of a bus, us, two cars, a camper van and more cars. It is just as well we didn’t meet anything coming the other way.

As we approached Pas de Peyrol, we lost the trees and the road now runs across the open hilltops. This is very poor land and only suitable for rough grazing. Vegetation is heather, broom and there were the remains of flower heads of the yellow gentian.

There are parking areas on both sides of the road near the top, which is a superb viewpoint. Even at 6pm it was still busy. There is a cafe, visitor centre, toilets and made footway to top of Puy Mary. This is a cone with scree and rocks. There are views down into the Mars valley and to the north before the road drops steeply down to the Col de Serre.

The D17 swings round the head of the valleys before dropping down into Jordanne Valley.

We took the D17 back to Aurillac. This is a superb drive. The top part is across open countryside with good views down into the Jordanne valley and across to the cone of Puy Griou, before dropping down through deciduous woodland to the valley floor.

There is quite a bit of settlement at the top of Jordanne Valley. These have no services or shops but do have a bus service. It is a very fertile area with lush green pasture with Salers cows and a few sheep. Between St-Cirques-de-Jordanne and Lascalles the river cuts through a deep gorge. There is a walk through this (small charge) with wooden walkways and bridges. We had hoped to do this but the slow start visiting the smaller settlements to the west unfortunately meant it was too late.

The road drops down into the centre of Aurillac. We lost the signs but managed to navigate our way onto the road for Cassaniouze. It is probably better to do it this way as navigation from the N122 through Aurillac to pick up the D17 might be problematical.