NorthernExposure
10+ Posts
Last May/June, I was fortunate to be able to travel with my son for a soccer tournament he played in Pescara, after which we travelled for a week, about half of that along the Amalfi Coast. It was our first time there, and we stayed two nights in Ravello and a night Praiano, making day trips to Amalfi and Positano. That's hardly enough time to develop any great understanding of the area, but here are my first impressions in order from least to most favorable:
(1) Positano: Even though it was not quite peak season, it was still mobbed, and that with its abundance of tourist-centric shops left me with the same sense I would get the few times in Venice I walked from Rialto to San Marcos along the main path. Higher up, the crowds thinned, and a sense of real neighbourhoods emerged, but escaping the crowds here is not like escaping them in Venice, where a quiet canal is never far away: Be prepared to do a lot of steps. Not a problem for my 15-year-son, who sprinted up them to peak around corners to give me a preview; but less easy for his old man and my bad Achilles tendon.
(2) Amalfi: While I walked up Positano, I hiked down to Amalfi from Ravello, a stunning walk with great views, and with gravity as my ally, I arrived invigorated rather than in pain. Our time here was limited but enjoyable, with the city easier to navigate, the crowds a bit more manageable, and with my love of the seas and the city's history as a sea power, it was a natural fit. Fresh sardines with lemons could brighten anyone's day.
(3) Ravello: It's position back from the coastal road and up a steep hill means that how ever many tourists visit during the day, when the sun descends, so too do many of the tourists, leaving behind a stunning setting with space to enjoy it and locals to learn from. This is a place to slow down and focus on what is special, and the next time we go, I hope to stay at least a full week.
I am a novice when it comes to the Amalfi Coast, so I would love if others would share their experiences and insights.
Ciao.
(1) Positano: Even though it was not quite peak season, it was still mobbed, and that with its abundance of tourist-centric shops left me with the same sense I would get the few times in Venice I walked from Rialto to San Marcos along the main path. Higher up, the crowds thinned, and a sense of real neighbourhoods emerged, but escaping the crowds here is not like escaping them in Venice, where a quiet canal is never far away: Be prepared to do a lot of steps. Not a problem for my 15-year-son, who sprinted up them to peak around corners to give me a preview; but less easy for his old man and my bad Achilles tendon.
(2) Amalfi: While I walked up Positano, I hiked down to Amalfi from Ravello, a stunning walk with great views, and with gravity as my ally, I arrived invigorated rather than in pain. Our time here was limited but enjoyable, with the city easier to navigate, the crowds a bit more manageable, and with my love of the seas and the city's history as a sea power, it was a natural fit. Fresh sardines with lemons could brighten anyone's day.
(3) Ravello: It's position back from the coastal road and up a steep hill means that how ever many tourists visit during the day, when the sun descends, so too do many of the tourists, leaving behind a stunning setting with space to enjoy it and locals to learn from. This is a place to slow down and focus on what is special, and the next time we go, I hope to stay at least a full week.
I am a novice when it comes to the Amalfi Coast, so I would love if others would share their experiences and insights.
Ciao.