Provence France - Northern Luberon, July 2014

[jonathan]

I can't remember who it was who posted a link to the 'Lost in Arles' blog last year (Roz? Chris? And it must have been on ST) - but huge thanks from me, because this little cabanon near Simiane-la-Rotonde is very lovely. I've had two beautifully peaceful late afternoons sitting on the deck overlooking the lavender fields drinking tea and reading my kindle; 2 good morning trips to the boulangerie (wood-fired oven) in Rustrel for my breakfast breads, and two good Luberon Lunches (thanks to some recommendations from Kevin and others).

Yesterday's lunch was in Viens: a very gorgeous village, with fabulous views from its hilltop position. Lots of handsome big houses in the village, and a nice, quite modest, chateau. Good food at Le Petit Jardin - surprisingly busy, I thought - until I realised that it was a Jour Ferié (14th July), and hence no cheapo formule midi... Still, the €26.50 menu was very decent.

And today was market day in St-Saturnin. What a super place! As with Viens, it's got topography on its side: more fabulous views, especially if you take the pretty easy climb up to the castle/chapel right at the top. But it's rather more down to earth than some of the more touristed Luberon villages: plenty of 'real' shops, a good selection of bars, and two lovely looking little hotels, both of which come with good food recommendations from my local contacts...

Today's lunch specials at the St Hubert looked more appealing than at Les Voyageurs, and St H's terrace is particularly lovely. Good food (a superb crème brûlée à la verveine) and friendly service.

2 photos: my tea time spot here at the cabanon, and the view from S-S's castle.

 

[Pauline]

Look at that blue sky! What a lovely deck!

We are going to spend a week at Kevin's in St Saturnin next year - Les Mas Perreal - because he has a vacation rental now (previously it was B&B only).

 

[Pauline]

I edited your post Jonathan, just to make the photos full size instead of thumbnails. Hope that is okay.

 

[Chris]

It may have been me, because I love that blog. She's a fantastic photographer and a good writer. I'm really intrigued by the little cabanon, because I would love to spend more time in that area. My travel budget for 2015 is maxed out (already), but maybe 2016. I can't remember which of the hotels in St. Sat I've been to for lunch, but the views were fabulous. It always makes me smile to see the Perreal hill, which I always think of as Kevin's hill.

 

[Roz]

It was probably Chris, as I'm sure it wasn't me -- but I'm glad you found such a beautiful spot!

 

[jonathan]

The cabanon is small, and simply furnished, but has all I need (good kitchen, decent water pressure in the shower, comfortable bed), plus the bonus of the fabulously peaceful & pretty location.

The downside of all that peace is that you have to get in the car to drive to anything: nearest shops 5km, nearest supermarket 10km. But the roads round here are pretty good, and there's far less holiday traffic than over in the more touristy parts of the Luberon.

Yesterday evening's walk with Kevin was great: huge fields of lavender positively glowing in the late afternoon sun, and gorgeous views over to the Luberon massif and up to the Montagne de Lure.

After seeing all the heights from a distance yesterday, I thought I should actually go up high today, so I drove up to the top of Mt Ventoux (in the company of literally hundreds of cyclists). 1911m high - the views are astounding, even though (inevitably for the high summer) it was all a but hazy.

I drove back down through Bédoin, where I think you've stayed, Chris? Gorgeously shady streets in the very attractive centre - though rather a lot of traffic (including me...).

2 photos: one from the top of Mt Ventoux, looking south (it's the sort of view that doesn't come across well in a photo, but does give an impression of the height), and one of the field next to the cabanon, during yesterday's harvesting of the lavender, which is just beginning. That 2nd photo seems to have installed itself at the beginning of this post!

 

[Chris]

Yes, I stayed in Bédoin a few years ago. It is pretty, but. I stayed in October when it was very, very, VERY quiet and I think it's overcrowded in summer with bicyclists and others coming and going over Mont Ventoux. There were a lot of bicyclists during the day even in October.

I had to laugh at myself at how horrified I was to see that lovely lavender being harvested by that big machine. I very carefully cut each stem from my lavender plants and hang bundles upside down to dry under the shade of my patio cover. When I have enough for a bundle, that is. I bet it smelled wonderful, though.

Have you been to Banon? That's been on my list to see for years.

 

[Kevin Widrow]

Chris - I can vouch for the fact that the smell was amazing ! Jonathan's cabanon is in a truly gorgeous spot. As for the Perreal Hill, I always think of it as my dog Onyx's hill because I suspect that's where he heads off to when he gets a chance to sneak away !

Jonathan - thanks for a good excuse to get out and do a bit of lavender-peeping. Enjoy Marseille...

 

[jonathan]

Yes Chris, I went up to Banon a couple of days ago. Another lovely village, with some very fine architecture (and good views) in the old upper village, and a nice selection of shops in the lower part. Including, of course, that justly famous bookshop, Le Bleuet, where I spent a wonderful time browsing, and enjoying the characterful building and its quirky booksellers' notices.

My final day in the Northern Luberon today. This corner really is nicely uncrowded (even in this very high season) compared with the parts I visited back in 2011. It's no less attractive though. For today's photo, I give you the Chapelle Saint-Ferréol, just down from Viens. Another lovely bit of ecclesiastical architecture amidst the lavender - but, unlike Sénanque, not a tour bus in sight!

 

[Chris]

Lovely!

I hope the bookstore lasts until I can visit it. In pre-Kindle days (makes me feel a little guilty in this context) Frank and I were always in search of that one little section of books in English wherever we went.

 

[Pauline]

Those fields of lavender are beautiful!