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Friuli, May 2017

Amy

100+ Posts
We drove from Venice to our agriturismo just south of Cividale del Friuli on Thursday morning. We're staying in a winery that rents rooms and apartments, Perusini outside of Cormons. http://www.perusini.com/en/. We are in an old house high on a hill, that has been divided into two apartments. It is definitely funky as country houses can be, but we have a fabulous view, a comfortable bed, and the toilet flushes. We easily cooked pasta with sausage and greens for dinner, and ate on our porch. What more does one need?

The area is heavily covered in vines, this is the Collio Orientale. The wines we've tasted have all been excellent, especially the aromatic, light-bodied whites and the red Refosco. The food has also been spectacular.

Yesterday after the Cormons weekly market (the sweetest peas I've ever had!) we spent the morning in Cividale del Friuli, a lively and very interesting town with plenty to see and do. The centro has attractive main streets, and plenty of evocative cobblestone alleys to explore. It was a stronghold of the Lombards, and retains much of its history. There's a Duomo, a restored 14th century house to explore, and a nice riverside walkway. Our favorite visit was the the beautiful Tempietto Longbardo, built in the mid 8th century. Tiny and very special, with carvings and partially restored frescoes. We had an excellent lunvh at Antoco Leon d'Oro, just across the Devil's Bridge on the south side of town. We tried the local traditional frico, a hot mashed potato and cheese dish, hilariously served with polenta. Definitely something to get you through a cold winter. Everything we had was quite good, and they have a nice outside area as well as dining rooms.

In the afternoon we drove north to Gemona in the foothills, (about 40 minutes drive) with mountains rising all around making for a spectacular landscape. The town is built up a hill, and was mostly destroyed during the 1976 earthquake with centered there. The town has been rebuilt and some of the older parts restored. There is a marvelous medieval cathedral with a striking facade. We wanted to go to the small museum, but even though the sign n the door said open, it was firmly shut. Ah, Italy, what can you do. We'll try again.

A few miles north we stopped at Venzone, a lovely walled town that was also rebuilt after the quake. There's a 14th century civic hall, and a cathedral that is still being restored.

Last night for dinner we at Al Postiglione, the restaurant on the agriturismo. Meat and Meat is what you eat here. We had an excellent crudo, a fresh salad (yay, vegetables) and then the main dish arrived--enough perfectly rare steak for four people, plus vegetables. We also had an engaging encounter with the local curling champions at the next table, celebrating their victory. They seem to push polenta pots on an ice rink, insisting we see their videos on youtube. Much laughter.

This morning promised dreary weather, so we went back to Cividale to visit the museums. The archaeology museum is a real gem, with artifacts from Roman, Lombardian, and more recent times. There are large detailed signs in each room with English translations. We also went to the smaller Early Christian museum next to the Duomo, which had some marvelous items.

Today we had lunch at Trattoria al Pieve on Corona. Another excellent meal, sharing lightly smoked goose breast, sliced like prosciutto, then gnocchi with rabbit ragu; and cinghiale with sour cherries.

Raining hard after lunch, so we made an appointment to taste wine at Borgo San Danielle in Cormons. The helpful woman there had no English, but we managed. The Pignolo, an old red Friulan grape was particularly good, as were their whites. Some wine is going home with us. Their grounds are beautiful, and I believe they also rent rooms.

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... Last night for dinner we at Al Postiglione, the restaurant on the agriturismo. Meat and Meat is what you eat here.

:) As you go north, and into the mountains, there is more meat on the menu I guess! I liked the sound of the double carbs meal - potatoes and polenta!

I thought the continent was getting a heatwave this week, not rain!
 
Amy, thanks for all of the preview info on Friuli! It sounds like you have been visiting a lot of great places so far. I am getting very exciting to experience this new region.

I'm with you, Pauline. I eat chicken & fish but remember having more problems in Piemonte. I hope it will not be too difficult to find lots of great meals while in Friuli.
 
Susan, I haven't been seeing chicken on menus, but there does seem to be some fish available. There are vegetarian options--asparagus and scolpit (spring greens) are being featured with pasta, risotto and frittatas. Theres always frico! At Antico Leon d'Oro in Cividale I had a super tagliatelle with asparagus.

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Yesterday we drove across the birder into Slovenia, only four kilometers away from us. Yesterday I had remembered something I'd read amout on ST that a sticker is needed for driving highways in Slovenia. They're available at tabacchis here, and as a last chance, right before the toll booth.

We drove the 444 through the lower Soca river valley. The landscape was intensely green, thickly planted in vines, with dense forest climbing the hills. White stucco villages nestle into the base of the hills or perch on top, each with a church bell tower. The other major crop is cherries, and people were sitting at stands in front of orchards selling gorgeous cherries.

We had made at appointment to taste at Tilia Winery outside Ajdovescina. We had been told to plan on three hours there, which had us bemused. Three hours to taste? But we found we had to tear ourselves away to make our lunch reservation after 2 1/2 hours. Winemaker Matjaz Lemut is passionate and has strong opinions about winemaking. His wines are lovely, especially his Pinot noir reserve and his fresh whites.
http://www.tiliapremiumwines.com/

We had a long, very special lunch at Majerija, hidden away in the back of a village surrounded by vineyards. Family groups were having a sunday afternoon of eating and talking, with children running around outside in the garden. The food is quite sophisticated, with even the traditional dishes given a lightness and elegance. And very reasonable prices for the quality.
http://www.majerija.si/en/

The way home was done on winding back roads, sometimes through vines, sometimes on twisting roads that climbed mountains. We got lost, bumped down gravel roads, and eventually made our back into Friuli. I could definitely see exploring more of Slovenia.

Cherries for dinner.

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Yesterday we drove to the southwest corner of Friuli, where it borders the Veneto. Monday's can be slim pickings for tourists in rural Italy, with much closed up tight. But churches are usually open. We first visited the 12th century Abbey Santa Maria in Sylvis, in the town of Sesta al Reghena. The Abbey has been added to over the years, but retains frescoes from the 13th and 14th centuries. The church was painted in pale greens and rose, it is quite lovely. Outside are the stone foundation. Of the 8th century church originally here.

We also stopped in nearby Cordovado, a town with a charming old core, tiny and largely consisting of one street with old houses, a small castello, and town gates. In Valvasone we found two churches with beautiful renaissance organs, and arcaded old houses lining the streets.

Lunch was at La Baita, a highway truck stop type place, where everyone but us were obviously regulars. Two courses and side dish for 11 euros (2 choices, verbal menu) I had homemade gnocchi then a caprese salad. Home style food.

We spent some time strolling through Pordenone, a large and lively town. The outskirts lead to a gorgeous corso of 15th and 16th century palaces, many still covered in faded frescoes. There are lots of attractive shops and cafes on the ground floors, a pedestrian zone, and several interesting museums (sadly closed on Monday).

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Tuesday we drove south to Aquiliea, to see the Roman ruins and museum, and especially the Basilica. You drive through a flat landscape of vines and fields, suddenly seeing roman ruins along the road and through the dusty town. The tourist office is well supplied with information, and runs a two hour walking tour at 10:30.

If you've been to Rome, Pompeii or Ostia the ruins may not wow you, and most of the choice bits are in museums. But it is still interesting to walk the different areas of the excavated city ruins, and to see areas still being excavated and studied. The museum across the road from the Basilica has lovely sculptures on the ground floor. Unfortunately the first floor is currently under renovation and was closed.

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But oh that Basilica...just wonderful. The entire floor covered in fantastic mosaics from the 4th century. You walk on a clear lucite walkway that travels the perimeter. At the front you can buy a pamphlet describing the many different elements and stories told in the mosaics. Plan on time to enjoy this. There is also a gaily painted little crypt with a collection of gem encrusted reliquaries, and to the left of the main entrance a lower area being excavated. No photos allowed in the main part of Basilica, but they don't seem to mind you taking them in the other areas.

There is a paved bike path to walk along (look for it behind the tourist office) so you don't have to walk along the busy road between the sites. Very few visitors when we were there, mostly school groups and a few bus tours. I'd imagine it's busier in summer.

From there we drove the short distance to Grado, parking just outside the pedestrian area. The centroid is lovely, with twisty streets, piazzas and many cafes and seafood restaurants. There is also a beach, crowded in chairs in typical Italian beach style, and a long concrete walkway along the shore. We came mainly to see the two 6th century churches, both with lovely mosaic floors. These floors are still heavily in use, with church pews on top. Look for the Lapidarium behind the Baptistry, there are many lovely early medieval pieces inside. We had an excellent seafood lunch at Trattoria de Tony. Supposedly somewhere is a Museum of Underwater Archaeology, but in spite of Google and asking three people, we never found where it was moved to.

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Wednesday morning we stayed at home, being lazy while the sun decided if it was going to make an appearance. We headed out late morning, with no plans other than to head toward some mountains. We took the 356 north of Cividale, winding through Faedis before the road turned steeper and curvier. Thickly forested slopes with caraggy tops, small towns, the occasional ruined castello on hillsides, almost no traffic. We stopped at the larger riverside market town of Tarcento for lunch, choosing Al Muelin Vieri pretty much at random because of the number or cars parked outside. This seems to be where the local businesspeople go to lunch, groups of them eating and playing cards in between courses. We ate very well, each having a local stuffed pasta dish. We finally got to try cjazonses, the friulian potato-dough ravioli stuffed with greens, pine nuts and raisins,; sauced with butter and cinnamon, topped with smoked ricotta. Sounds odd, but they were fabulous.

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We continued climbing the twisting road up to Musi, way up into the Parco Naturale Regionale delle Prealpi Giulie. Supposedly this is the wettest part of Italy, and as we were driving through clouds at this point, I could see why. Lots of hiking in this area of dramatic scenery of cliffs and river gorges, we saw signposted trails all around.We headed east, but stopped when we realized we'd gotten to the Slovenian border, as we hadn't though to have our passports with us. Back down and home.

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Thursday we drove the 20 minutes to Udine to meet up with Susan (Girasole) who had arrived yesterday. Udine has a lovely historic core once you drive through the modern outskirts. Porticoed buildings, several charming piazzas, interesting churches and museums.

We began in the magnificent Duomo, originally Romanesque but considerably enlanged and altered during the Baroque period. There are several Tiepolos inside, a Pellegrino, frescoes covering the walls and ceilings so that you need to walk slowly to focus on what is in front of you to not be overwhelmed by the swirling colors and figures of the whole.

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Then to the interesting little Baptistry, ( Museo del Duomo) with some 14th century frescoes, a beautifuly carved stone reliquary, and some 15th century paintings on wood.

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We walked the short distance to the Museo Diocesano and Gallerie del Tiepolo. This 18th century building has large Tiepolo frescoes illustrating stories from the Bible, several other rooms including a beautiful library. Downstairs is a collection of medieval wood statues that were taken from churches in Friuli for safekeeping after the 76 earthquake, and a case of fascinating ex-votoes. We were befriended by the museum's guard, who was only too delighted to show us around. The place was otherwise empty, not even the ever-present school groups here.

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The Piazza Liberta has a gorgeous clock tower. We admired Palladio's arch leading to the steep stairs going up to the Castello. Due to my knee we didn't hike up there, I bet Susan will do so during her stay.

For lunch, we followed Shannon's excellent advice and ate at Enoteca Giardinetto, a wine bar with very good food. And in contrast to many of Friuli restaurant menus, plenty of options that weren't meat-centric. We shared a nice salad of warm octopus and potatoes, then Susan and I had different pastas, (Mine was homemade gnocchi made from purple potatoes, with shrimp and sauced with zucchini puree) and Larry a special of grilled tuna.

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We followed that with a stop at the best gelateria we'd yet found in Friuli, Oggi Gelato for some tiny cups of great gelato.

After lunch we walked back to Susan's hotel, first going into the Museo Ethnografico del Friuli. I loved this little place, with carefully curated rooms of artifacts from traditional Friuli homes, work, and life. Again, we were coached by a friendly guard who was very knowledgeable about the collection. Gorgeously carved wooden furniture, more ex-votos, textiles, toys, cooking implements, tools, all sorts of things.

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We said our goodbyes, and Larry and I headed for home. For dinner, we ate at the neighboring agriturismo restaurant Solder. Eating outside at a picnic table with glasses of their wine and simple, homestyle food to share. We are amused that at 10 pm cars and motorinos zoomed up the driveway--the area young men coming up not for an evening's beer--but for glasses of bollocini (young local bubbly wine).

Back to the USA in the morning. We enjoyed laid-back Friuli, and wished we had a few more days to explore. Udine deserves more than a day. We never even got to Trieste, or into the Carnia mountains, Palmanova, or over to San Daniele. We're home now with a case of Friuli wines, mostly whites but a few bottles pignolo, a rich red we liked a lot.
 
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I would like to see Aquileia (more info on Wikipedia - Aquileia), for the Roman ruins and those mosaics! The mosaics in Grado look wonderful too. I think it is time I organize a trip to this part of Italy.

Thanks for all these details and photos! How nice that you got to meetup with Susan!!

Here is a photo from Wikipedia of the Aquileia Cathedral mosaics.

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Foto di Giovanni Dall'Orto - luglio 2005​
 
Amy, I thought you snuck a picture of the mosaic floor for a minute there until I realized Pauline posted it from Wikipedia. It sure was an amazing mosaic floor!

Yes, I did climb those stairs to the Castello to visit the museums inside and I was adopted by another frindly worker providing me with extra information about many of the paintings . There was a choice of either the stairs or a winding walkway with just a few stairs at the end to reach the Castello. I went with the stairs as it seemed faster, although it was the same day I climbed that tower so I could definitely feel them.

It was so great spending the day together! Glad you made it home safely.
 

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