Amy
100+ Posts
We drove from Venice to our agriturismo just south of Cividale del Friuli on Thursday morning. We're staying in a winery that rents rooms and apartments, Perusini outside of Cormons. http://www.perusini.com/en/. We are in an old house high on a hill, that has been divided into two apartments. It is definitely funky as country houses can be, but we have a fabulous view, a comfortable bed, and the toilet flushes. We easily cooked pasta with sausage and greens for dinner, and ate on our porch. What more does one need?
The area is heavily covered in vines, this is the Collio Orientale. The wines we've tasted have all been excellent, especially the aromatic, light-bodied whites and the red Refosco. The food has also been spectacular.
Yesterday after the Cormons weekly market (the sweetest peas I've ever had!) we spent the morning in Cividale del Friuli, a lively and very interesting town with plenty to see and do. The centro has attractive main streets, and plenty of evocative cobblestone alleys to explore. It was a stronghold of the Lombards, and retains much of its history. There's a Duomo, a restored 14th century house to explore, and a nice riverside walkway. Our favorite visit was the the beautiful Tempietto Longbardo, built in the mid 8th century. Tiny and very special, with carvings and partially restored frescoes. We had an excellent lunvh at Antoco Leon d'Oro, just across the Devil's Bridge on the south side of town. We tried the local traditional frico, a hot mashed potato and cheese dish, hilariously served with polenta. Definitely something to get you through a cold winter. Everything we had was quite good, and they have a nice outside area as well as dining rooms.
In the afternoon we drove north to Gemona in the foothills, (about 40 minutes drive) with mountains rising all around making for a spectacular landscape. The town is built up a hill, and was mostly destroyed during the 1976 earthquake with centered there. The town has been rebuilt and some of the older parts restored. There is a marvelous medieval cathedral with a striking facade. We wanted to go to the small museum, but even though the sign n the door said open, it was firmly shut. Ah, Italy, what can you do. We'll try again.
A few miles north we stopped at Venzone, a lovely walled town that was also rebuilt after the quake. There's a 14th century civic hall, and a cathedral that is still being restored.
Last night for dinner we at Al Postiglione, the restaurant on the agriturismo. Meat and Meat is what you eat here. We had an excellent crudo, a fresh salad (yay, vegetables) and then the main dish arrived--enough perfectly rare steak for four people, plus vegetables. We also had an engaging encounter with the local curling champions at the next table, celebrating their victory. They seem to push polenta pots on an ice rink, insisting we see their videos on youtube. Much laughter.
This morning promised dreary weather, so we went back to Cividale to visit the museums. The archaeology museum is a real gem, with artifacts from Roman, Lombardian, and more recent times. There are large detailed signs in each room with English translations. We also went to the smaller Early Christian museum next to the Duomo, which had some marvelous items.
Today we had lunch at Trattoria al Pieve on Corona. Another excellent meal, sharing lightly smoked goose breast, sliced like prosciutto, then gnocchi with rabbit ragu; and cinghiale with sour cherries.
Raining hard after lunch, so we made an appointment to taste wine at Borgo San Danielle in Cormons. The helpful woman there had no English, but we managed. The Pignolo, an old red Friulan grape was particularly good, as were their whites. Some wine is going home with us. Their grounds are beautiful, and I believe they also rent rooms.
The area is heavily covered in vines, this is the Collio Orientale. The wines we've tasted have all been excellent, especially the aromatic, light-bodied whites and the red Refosco. The food has also been spectacular.
Yesterday after the Cormons weekly market (the sweetest peas I've ever had!) we spent the morning in Cividale del Friuli, a lively and very interesting town with plenty to see and do. The centro has attractive main streets, and plenty of evocative cobblestone alleys to explore. It was a stronghold of the Lombards, and retains much of its history. There's a Duomo, a restored 14th century house to explore, and a nice riverside walkway. Our favorite visit was the the beautiful Tempietto Longbardo, built in the mid 8th century. Tiny and very special, with carvings and partially restored frescoes. We had an excellent lunvh at Antoco Leon d'Oro, just across the Devil's Bridge on the south side of town. We tried the local traditional frico, a hot mashed potato and cheese dish, hilariously served with polenta. Definitely something to get you through a cold winter. Everything we had was quite good, and they have a nice outside area as well as dining rooms.
In the afternoon we drove north to Gemona in the foothills, (about 40 minutes drive) with mountains rising all around making for a spectacular landscape. The town is built up a hill, and was mostly destroyed during the 1976 earthquake with centered there. The town has been rebuilt and some of the older parts restored. There is a marvelous medieval cathedral with a striking facade. We wanted to go to the small museum, but even though the sign n the door said open, it was firmly shut. Ah, Italy, what can you do. We'll try again.
A few miles north we stopped at Venzone, a lovely walled town that was also rebuilt after the quake. There's a 14th century civic hall, and a cathedral that is still being restored.
Last night for dinner we at Al Postiglione, the restaurant on the agriturismo. Meat and Meat is what you eat here. We had an excellent crudo, a fresh salad (yay, vegetables) and then the main dish arrived--enough perfectly rare steak for four people, plus vegetables. We also had an engaging encounter with the local curling champions at the next table, celebrating their victory. They seem to push polenta pots on an ice rink, insisting we see their videos on youtube. Much laughter.
This morning promised dreary weather, so we went back to Cividale to visit the museums. The archaeology museum is a real gem, with artifacts from Roman, Lombardian, and more recent times. There are large detailed signs in each room with English translations. We also went to the smaller Early Christian museum next to the Duomo, which had some marvelous items.
Today we had lunch at Trattoria al Pieve on Corona. Another excellent meal, sharing lightly smoked goose breast, sliced like prosciutto, then gnocchi with rabbit ragu; and cinghiale with sour cherries.
Raining hard after lunch, so we made an appointment to taste wine at Borgo San Danielle in Cormons. The helpful woman there had no English, but we managed. The Pignolo, an old red Friulan grape was particularly good, as were their whites. Some wine is going home with us. Their grounds are beautiful, and I believe they also rent rooms.
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