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Friuli May 2018

PokeyMindy

100+ Posts
Friuli May 22-28, 2018

I enjoy planning my own adventures to Italy but there are times when a small group tour works best for me. I’d wanted to visit the Friuli region for a few years. I’d read that this region was “a dream come true” for white wine lovers which definitely “sparked joy” for me!

I reached out to my dear friends Marcello and Raffaella who own an extraordinary small food and wine tour company https://www.bluone.com/. They are members of https://slowtraveltours.com/
I’ve been fortunate to have been on 4 previous tours with them and I had no doubt their Friuli Venezia Giulia would be fabulous! They seek out like minded people/producers who share their passion for locally sourced food and wine.

I reached out to friends of mine in early July 2017 who’ve been on tours with Marcello and Raffa and asked if they’d want to join in on the fun! I also asked a few other travel friends who I thought would really love a Friuli adventure. Before we knew it we had a wonderful group of friends ready to go! We reached out to Marcello and Raffa and told them the dates we’d prefer and also that we’d like to add an extra day onto their itinerary.

With our travel dates set it was time to go. I flew Boston to Zurich which was uneventful. I do love SwissAir. I don’t mind paying an extra $100.00 for extra leg room and no one in front of me for the long haul flights. At my age it’s a much needed “perk”. I find the airport easy to navigate and the best part is the piped in “yodeling, mooing, and cowbells” you hear on the transfer tram!


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I was to meet up with my friend Freda at the airport in Venice where Marcello had arranged for a driver to take us to our hotel in Udine where we would be based for the tour.

The flight on Swiss Air to Venice was going well until about 20 minutes into the flight it was announced that the plane had to turn around and return to the Zurich airport due to a BIRD STRIKE! (nothing worse than protesting birds, haha). We returned to Zurich and the planes engines were inspected and we got the “all clear” to head on back to Venice. Fortunately the passengers could stay on the plane while the inspection took place.

Of course, now I know that I’ll be arriving late and I had no way to let Freda know. When I arrived in Venice I was happy to be able to get WiFi and had tons of messages from both Freda and Marcello! The driver wouldn’t wait and so Freda had a solo van ride to Udine. I knew my other friend Beth was arriving around 5:30PM so I just hung out and met up with her driver. Beth and I rode together to Udine.

We arrived one day before the tour started and Marcello arranged for our extra night. We checked into our rooms at the Hotel Astoria in the charming town of Udine.
Did I mention it was hot hot hot and humid humid humid?? And….due to crazy Italian local laws the air conditioning was not turned on. I get grumpy when I’m sweaty so this was not a great start!

After we relaxed a bit in our rooms we decided to explore the neighborhood. We were lucky and ran into our friends, the wonderful mother/daughter duo of Arlyne and Marcy! We headed out and found a nearby place where we sat outside. We asked for the local Friulian wine and a platter of meats and cheeses. The food and wine was delicious and we toasted to our upcoming experience of everything “Friuli”. This made up for no AC.

TUESDAY, MAY 22, 2019.

In the morning we enjoyed breakfast which had a lot to offer but I needed macchiato doppio more than anything else. Freda, Beth and I met later in the lobby and ventured out to explore the shops and restaurants near the hotel. Marcy had to pick up her TIM SIM card so I tagged along and bought a SIM card for my iPad. There was also a WIND and Vodaphone store in the area. The TIM store transaction was smooth and the staff friendly. (and curious as to why we, as Americans, were staying in Udine).
We parted ways with Marcy and as our tummies were growling we went to find food! I’d heard many wonderful things about https://www.enotecagiardinetto.com/ At first we didn’t think it was open but I tried the door and voila! We absolutely loved this place! We each ordered a glass of Friuliano and raved about the food and service. There were so many wines to choose from….you could buy a glass of whatever you wanted. Each glass I chose was only about $4.00! We were lucky to return later in the week for dinner as part of our tour.


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At the arranged time our entire group met in the lobby. Finally, I got to hug Marcello and Raffa!
It was wonderful to see my dear friends Rob and Jeff (aka “Carmine”). I met them years ago on Marcello and Raffa’s Le Marche tour….we became instant friends and I consider them part of my “family”.

After hugs and kisses we asked about the Air Conditioning situation! Marcello asked at the front desk but no luck. Rob and Jeff found a “dollar type store” down the block where they each bought table side fans. Beth, Freda and I marched over there and each bought fans too! They definitely helped and we were giggling amongst ourselves what the housekeeping crew must have thought seeing fans in so many rooms. WHY DID I NOT TAKE A FAN PHOTO?

We met our wonderful local guide Simonetta for a brief introduction to this region of Italy. Udine is a very walkable town. We walked to the main Piazza della Libertà. It’s like a mini Piazza San Marco. Winged Lions and all! We hiked up to the Cathedral (stopping in the shade to escape from the heat). Afterwards we stopped for a much needed aperitif at a bar sitting outside in Piazza Matteotti.

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Back to our hotel (still no AC) to relax and freshen up before our first meal in Udine.

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Our first dinner in Udine is at https://www.trattoriaaifrati.it/ We were led upstairs and sat outside under a canopy. Down below was a canal which reminded me of Venice. We were able to choose off the menu. I really like this option. The menu was filled with so many choices, all being typical dishes representing this area of Italy. Of course I had to try “Frico”, fried local (Montasio) cheese along with polenta and sausage. Deliziosa! For the “second piatti” I enjoyed a scrumptious plate of “guancetta di maiale con polenta”. For dessert a typical apple strudel pastry. There were a lot of laughs and plenty of Friuliano wine flowing. A wonderful first day with a crazy group of friends! What could be better? AIR CONDITIONING.

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WEDNESDAY MAY 23, 2019

We meet in the lobby and hop into our comfy mini van for a short ride to Cividale which is a UNESCO site. This are near the border of Slovenia is lush and picturesque. After wondering around this charming and historic town we (of course) had to go to a winery! Our first stop was to Rocca Bernarda. https://www.sagrivit.it/en/location/rocca-bernarda/ After tasting FABULOUS Pinot Grigio and Friuliano wines ( also red wines too for those of you thinking “what, only white wine?”) we drove to the area of Corno di Rosazzo and were treated to a wonderful, local “farmhouse” type restaurant called SOLDER. We sat inside at a large “farmhouse” type table but there were umbrella covered picnic tables outside with gorgeous views. More frico! Risotto with nettles! Tortilla with field herbs. More Friuliano wine! Everyone was beyond friendly, I really loved this place. *side note*…having your own car would be a must in this part of Italy. Not much traffic and the scenery is amazing!

http://www.soldervini.it/

Our next stop was to another fabulous winery Picéch where I fell in love with Malvasia Istriana, a wine rich in iron yet not too high in alcohol. WinWin! We were treated to local cheese and delicious Prosciutto di San Daniele. Family run since 1920.

http://www.picech.com/en/vini

After our wine tasting we drove to the border of Italy/Slovenia. There is a marker now where the wall between the two countries once stood, gone since 2004. From the internet :

”The last wall dividing Eastern and Western Europe is coming down. On the stroke of 10.30 yesterday morning, the mayors of Gorizia in Italy and Nova Gorica in Slovenia, divided since 1947, met at the border and in a brief ceremony inaugurated the wall's demolition.

The last wall dividing Eastern and Western Europe is coming down. On the stroke of 10.30 yesterday morning, the mayors of Gorizia in Italy and Nova Gorica in Slovenia, divided since 1947, met at the border and in a brief ceremony inaugurated the wall's demolition.

This is the far north-eastern corner of Italy, fought over for centuries by Italians, Austrians and Slovenes, invaded by Romans, Huns, Goths, Lombards, Nazis and even (in a little-known alliance with the Nazis) Cossacks. As long as Yugoslavia and the Soviet Union remained intact, Italy feared that Gorizia could become the entry point of a Soviet invasion.

We returned to Udine to relax a bit, cool down, and get ready to eat and drink even more! (having AC makes me so much happier).

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Thursday, May 24

We took a hike along the Rilke trail near Trieste….limestone cliffs and surrounded by sumac. It was incredibly hot and humid and I was happy to board the air conditioned van afterwards. The views were incredible so that helped. I wasn’t wearing the best shoes either so that contributed to me not having the best time.

http://coolkidzcooltrips.com/discover-rilke-trail

Afterwards we went to one of my favorite wineries of the trip; Jozko Colja, in a small village of Samatorza near Slovenia. If I had a car I would love to stay here for a week! The family owned winery was amazing. We had the best lunch! Delicious Vitovska and Malvasia wines. The caves in the area connect with an underground river system. This gives their wines a distinctive taste. I even brought back a bottle of their Vitovska…and I never bring wine home!

http://www.jcolja.eu/
https://www.agriturismo.it/en/farmhouse/friuli-venezia_giulia/trieste/ColjaJozko-0180586/index.html

Afterward we drove to Trieste. We walked around the gorgeous Piazza Unita d’Italia, the main square. It was very hot so we sat at a caffe facing the square and I enjoyed a caffe shakerato. Frankly I could have downed about 5 gallons of water! I would love to return to Trieste but at a cooler time of year.

From here we drove to the Castello di Miramare, built in 1860 overlooking the Gulf of Trieste. Talk about a view! From Wikipedia:

Miramare Castle is a 19th-century castle on the Gulf of Trieste near Trieste, northeastern Italy. It was built from 1856 to 1860 for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian and his wife, Charlotte of Belgium, later Emperor Maximilian I and Empress Carlota of Mexico, based on a design by Carl Junker.

We had time to walk around the grounds, look at the view and take SO MANY PICTURES!

We returned to our hotel and I had time to relax in my wonderfully air conditioned room. Our dinner this evening was at the hotel and did not disappoint!

Friday May25th

Today we are treated to a special wine tasting at Pitars. Honestly one of the most beautiful wineries I’ve ever seen! The wines are exceptional. My friend Marcy commented “I’m going to get married here”…..now to find her groom! Haha. Many in the group had a case of wine shipped back to them in the States. I bought a bottle of their Friuliano which I brought home. Oh to have this fabulous wine available to me locally. I’d be in Heaven!

Our next adventure (and a highlight of the trip) was a visit to the famous School of Mosaics. We were able to walk amongst the students as they were preparing for their finals. There are 3 levels of studies. The patience and creativity of these students is amazing!

Next on the agenda…Prosciutto di San Daniele! Now, I’m not a fan of the “regular” prosciutto which you get in Tuscany or here in the States…but wow, this is so delicious! We visit a small producer and learn all about the involved process. It’s all about the “breeze” in this part of Friuli.
http://www.laglacere.it/

We had a delicious and fun lunch sitting outside (fortunately under a covered walkway). Local cheeses and of course delicious prosciutto. Friendly and fun staff at Al Bersa Gliere. One of the jams served with the cheeses was so delicious I brought 2 jars home with me! We had time to walk around this charming town (aren’t they all?)….again, it would be great to come back during a cooler time of year.

Next we are off to visit a “living” museum where they carry on the tradition of old-old-times paper making and calligraphy. While interesting not really my thing. I took the opportunity to “chill” in the beautiful building! A few in our group try their hands at making paper. We each were able to watch one of the staff write a loved ones name in different styles of calligraphy.

In the early evening we head to Fossa Mala for a cooking class wine tasting, and dinner. The cooking class was more of a demonstration which was fine as the “cucina” was quite small and it was much too hot to be in such small quarters. Afterwards we had a tour of the winery and…yes, another wine tasting. There was a band setting up for a show later that evening. Our dinner was served…all the items we had seen made earlier in the day. The property is huge and filled with many diners and people here for the bands’ performance. Back to our hotel in Udine where the AC was on full blast.

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Next stop…well, my days are getting confused at this point and I can’t find my notes…so things are a bit willy nilly from this point on.

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We had a wonderful visit to a remarkable town named Venzone. This town suffered a MAJOR earthquake in 1976.

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From TheLocal.it “The town was hit by a major earthquake on March 6th, 1976, almost entirely destroying the historic centre and killing 47 people.

The bell tower of its imposing Gothic cathedral collapsed the following year.

However, each of its almost 10,000 stones were preserved, stored and carefully catalogued. Over a period of seven years, the was entirely rebuilt, literally stone by stone, with every one restored to its original place.”

https://www.thelocal.it/20170419/we...l-village-in-italy-rebuilt-earthquake-venzone

We have a delicious dinner” in Venzone. I tried “stinco di vitello”..delicious veal and very popular here in the Friuli region.

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The next day our first stop in the afternoon was to Azienda Agricola Foffani. https://foffani.it/eng/vino/ We had a wonderful wine tasting with the delightful wife of the owner. I couldn’t help but start singing “Fanni fanni FOFFANI banana fanna FOFFANI”….THE NAME GAME! haha. This would be a great place to stay as a base for exploring this area but of course you’d need a car. The property had beautiful mosaic sculptures (made at the famous Scuola di Mosaico) depicting the 4 seasons and different wines. Stunning. Their Rosato was my favorite for the day.

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Our next stop for more food and wine was to Palmanove, the “star shaped city”. From “Amusing Planet” the modern city started as a fortress built by the Venetian empire in the 16th and 17th centuries to prevent attacks from Austrian and Turkish forces. The town was founded in 1593, but its construction took about a century to complete. Built in a concentric star formation, the town consists of three rings which were built in stages. The entire town is enclosed in a circular area with a circumference of 7 km. This is surrounded by a moat, with nine arrow-shaped inter-connected ramparts that protruded out of the town so that the points could defend each other. Entrance to the town is allowed through three guarded gates.

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Unfortunately it was too hot to really walk around and explore but we all enjoyed a wonderful lunch where water was the preferred beverage. (well, not quite, LOL)

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Here is my final entry of my Friuli adventure!

After lunch we drove to Aquileia, another UNESCO site to visit the Basilica and its beautiful 4th century mosaics.

http://www.basilicadiaquileia.it/en/basilica
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What’s cool is you can walk on a plexiglass sort of walkway and you’re able to see the mosacis/layers below. It was absolutely magnificent! The crypt is covered in fabulous frescoes. Visiting here was one of the highlights for me.
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There were gobs of middle school aged children running around outside, they all threw their backpacks in a pile and enjoyed being kids playing near a 4th century structure. Do they realize how amazing that is? I got to see the La Brea tar pits when I was in school.
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It was nice to be able to have the time to wander around outside…all of us searching for shade and happy to hop back in the air conditioned van.



Our final destination and “last supper” took us to the beach town of Grado. A few in our group stopped to have a Spritz or two and to relax outside under umbrellas. It was a fun place to people watch and dog watch. Everyone had a dog it seemed. Our wonderful guide Simonetta took a few others around to explore the water front and canals.



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We sat outside along the fashionable pedestrian street and enjoyed a delicious farewell dinner at Antica Trattoria Alla Fortuna.
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Most had local fish although I chose to have a pasta dish which was delicious. I like some fish but not the kind with tentacles or a fished staring back at me.


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We were treated to a beautiful full moon to end our evening.
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Back to the hotel in Udine for our final night.



Monday May 28th we all met in the breakfast room and had a lot of laughs and hugs. It really was a wonderful time in Friuli. Even though it was hot and humid we made the best of it. As I write this (Feb. 2019) there is snow on the ground and it’s hard for me to remember how it feels to be sweating and longing for AC.
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Marcello and Raffa are such wonderful people. They are kind, caring, knowledgeable, and a joy to be around. I would recommend any of their Food and Wine tours. It’s nice to not have to drive after a day and evening of wine tasting. Just tell me where to be and at what time and I’m good to go!



I hope you’ve enjoyed my Friulian adventure!
 
I haven't been on the forum for a long time for a few reasons (broken elbow and pelvis among them-- not me, but Michael had an annus horribilis) and another reason is that we've just finished writing the first guide in English to FVG, although it will be awhile before it comes out. https://www.bradtguides.com/italy-friuli-venezia-giulia-pb.html But in the meantime it was great to see all the photos and interest! Most people we talk to have never heard of it.. but it really is, Pokey Mindy's report shows, a fascinating place. We also had to seriously update our Italian food decoder because of all the new Friulian words we found-- that just came out today https://www.facarospauls.com/apps/italian-food-decoder/10001/topics.
 

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