Itinerary Recommendations

[JJH]

Hi,
I'm thinking of traveling to Italy in May for three weeks. I've previously spent time in Lazio (Rome), Umbria, Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna and Campania (Amalfi Coast). I'm considering two options:

1) Two weeks in Le Marche and one week in Umbria
2) One week in Puglia (probably the northern portion) and two weeks in Le Marche

I'm a bit price sensitive on airline tickets so an open jaw ticket is probably not an option which would leave me flying in and out of Rome.

Option one would be a bit more compact in that I could take a train to Ancona, rent a car from there and then train back to Rome from Umbria at the end of my trip. Le Marche would be a new region for me and I would get to spend some time in Umbria (which I've been to a couple times but I love).

Option two is a bit more far flung but would offer more diversity. I haven't been to either region, so I would get to explore two new places which are arguably pretty different from each other. Option one (Le Marche and Umbria) would have more similarities. But this trip would eat up some of my days with more transit (driving or taking the train from regions that are not right next to each other).

Appreciate any thoughts. Option one makes more sense logically. But maybe I should cast logic aside for some more diverse experiences.

Regards,
John

 

[Giulia da Urbino]

Hi John and welcome!
Marche and Puglia are not that far away... Ancona to Foggia is just around 3 hours by train.
I don't know your plans in Le Marche but I usually suggest to have two bases one in the North and one in the South since communication North to South is not very good and you'd spend more time driving around Le Marche than going to Puglia.
You may consider train to Ancona, pick up car, stay in the North, drive to the South, drop car along the coast in Southern Le Marche, train to Puglia (or drive since it's just 2.30 hours drive from San Benedetto del Tronto to Foggia and it's an easy drive).
I think that it's easily doable and during your two weeks in Le Marche you could venture into Umbria (Gubbio and Assisi from Urbino, Norcia from Le Marche side of the Sibillini).
That said Umbria + Le Marche is also a great option of course!

 

[Alpinista]

One week in Le Marche and then two weeks in Puglia to enjoy a very different side of Italy -- sights, menu, dialect, culture. You will have the opportunity to enjoy things in Puglia that you will not see anywhere else in Italy.

 

[Tina]

Once you go all the way down to Puglia I would stay three weeks there to really have time to see something, I wouldn't go just for a week. So either add an option three in this sense, or if not, option 1could be very nice too

 

[lisaonthecape]

May is a lovely time to be in Italy, and both options sound wonderful. I agree with Giulia da Urbino that I would divide the time in Le Marche between one base in the north and one in the south; otherwise, you will spend a great deal of time driving.

We have stayed twice at San Cristoforo (see the Slow Europe Supporters in the text box to the right) and it was great. Peter and Richard are lovely hosts, and I would highly recommend Peter's book, Le Marche: An Insider's Guide, for anyone traveling to the region. Their place is in inland Le Marche, in the north, which makes it accessible to Urbino and just a quick jaunt across the border to Gubbio in Umbria.

In the south, Ascoli Piceno might be a good base for a week's stay. I've only been there for a day trip but would happily return. I haven't been to the Conero peninsula yet, but it is definitely on my bucket list, and might also be a good place to consider for a base in the south (but definitely check what will be open in May; it might be a bit early in the season).

As others have noted, a week is not long enough to do justice to Puglia. If I had a week, I would probably base myself in the lovely Itria valley. We stayed in the countryside outside of Cisternino and did day trips to Ostuni, Alberobello, Locorotondo, and Martina Franca. One of my favorite meals in Puglia was at Cibus in Ceglie Messapica, which is not far from Ostuni. I've been thinking about Puglia quite a bit recently and think that a return visit is definitely in order.

 

[JJH]

I appreciate all the advice everyone has given. I was able to find a decent price on airfare flying in and out of Ancona. I will arrive on Tuesday May 5 and depart on Thursday May 28. I'm going to go with the Le Marche plan (dipping into Umbria) and save Puglia for a separate trip. I will have 23 nights which I think I will spread over three spots.

Here is what I'm thinking:

Southern Base: Macerata or Ascoli Piceno

Inland Base: Camerino, Matelica or Sassoferrato

Northern Base: Urbino

I'd appreciate any thoughts on the three base areas and any specific lodging suggestions. I'm finding the southern base the most challenging. AP is at the very bottom of Le Marche and I'm not sure if that is the best spot to base. Would Macerata be too far north for a southern base?

 

[lisaonthecape]

Here's a suggestion for the northern base: Locanda della Valle Nuova, https://vallenuova.it/. I haven't stayed there, but it is owned by friends of friends and comes highly recommended.

For the southern base, I would be more inclined to stay in AP, which gives you easy access to both the coast and Norcia/Castelluccio. You might possibly catch the Fiorita in Castelluccio, although it's a bit early.

Are you generally looking for hotels or self-caterning stays?

 

[Pauline]

Here's a suggestion for the northern base: Locanda della Valle Nuova, https://vallenuova.it/. I haven't stayed there, but it is owned by friends of friends and comes highly recommended.

I’ve stayed there and loved it. Here are some reviews:

Le Marche - Le Marche, Valle Nuova, apartments on a farm

Locanda della Valle Nuova - Casina Nuova Apartments on a farm, south of Urbino in Le Marche one 2 bed/2 bath apartment, two 1 bed/1 bath apartments September 2015 Steve and I stayed at Locanda della Valle Nuova for 9 nights in early September. Our friend Joan joined us for a week. Valle Nuova...

www.sloweurope.com

 

[JJH]

Thanks for the recommendations. My preference for accommodations is:

1) Agriturismo
2) B&B
3) Self-catering apartment
4) Hotel

I looked at both the Le Marche Slow Europe Supporters (Valle Nuova and San Cristoforo La Casetta). San Cristoforo is booked for the entire month of May. Giulia's website says the B&B rooms are only for groups of 6 - 12 people and the season runs from May 29 to November 2. The self catering apartments are available from mid April. Since my travel companion (my mom) recently passed, I will be a solo traveler. This is also my first trip to Italy renting a vehicle (used trains / buses during my previous trips). So I was a bit concerned that a self catering apartment in the countryside would lead to some anxious moments traveling to and from dinner in the evening. In previous trips utilizing self-catering apartments, I was happy to stay in and make dinner with my mom. I'm less enthused at making dinner for myself and would prefer to go out.

Is one of Giulia's apartments suitable for a solo traveler? Are there dinner options within a reasonable distance?

 

[ellen]

Giulia's apartments are lovely and there are dinner options fairly nearby, some in Fermignano (about 4.5 km/3 miles away), others in Urbania (about 14 km/8.5 miles) or Aqualagna (8 km/5 miles). As long as you make the drive once or twice during the daylight hours you'll be fine coming back after dinner.