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Ivrea or Novara?

Tina

100+ Posts
Hi, we're going to visit a friend in Valle d'Aosta on Sunday, coming from Vallecamonica area, and are planning to stop on the way. We'll leave early morning to avoid traffic and don't need to be in Valle d'Aosta until mid or late afternoon. I was tempted by Vercelli after reading Jim's report but we've never visited Ivrea or Novara either and neither require adding journey time. The idea is just a stroll around the centre to look at the architecture and a look into some churches, we're a bit tired so not interested in museums this time.Ian I know you're an expert on the area......Also, any suggestions for lunch? Preferably not too expensive. Thanks!
 
Not an expert for sure, but I have been to both.

Ivrea smaller, so perhaps ideal for a half-day, with a nice quiet pedestrianised main shopping street, and a super restaurant in the form of http://mugnaia.com/ down a few steps from that street. Do grab some grissini from one of the panetterie as well, very much a regional speciality. Perhaps other stuff that takes your fancy, but definitely a 'bite sized' location

Novara bigger, and something of an under the radar charmer, with plenty of architectural appeal, including work by the person who designed Torino's Mole Antoniella. There's a famous biscuit shop https://www.camporelli1852.it/ I could see it being appealing on a Sunday as it would be lovely to walk around when quiet. In such situations I'll sometimes see if there are events on, and it seems there is a 'secret' guided tour of the basilica. https://www.turismonovara.it/it/eventimanifestazioni?n=4 which might make for a different experience.

In short, both could appeal (as might vercelli), though maybe I'd lean towards Novara

Another option might be Gattinara, which is a modest sized wine town, maybe a fraction smaller than Ivrea. Some decent history there, plus I love the wines! Antoniolo may not be the cheapest, but are very serious about their work. Travaglini an established name with quirky bottles (a retro re-imagination of older bottles). The wines good and approachable.
 
I've only been to Ivrea. It looks to me that Ivrea can't compete with the grandeur of Vercelli and Novara, so might not exactly suit your type of visit.
But we enjoyed our few hours there, including a fine lunch at Osteria San Maurizio. We just strolled the length of the pedestrian street Ian mentioned (Via Arduino and Via Palestra), and returned by way of the river. Maybe went to see the Theater building, don't exactly remember. IAC, we have a soft spot for towns with narrow streets and that a river runs through them, so Ivrea made for a lovely stop for us.

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In the end we stopped in Novara because by the time we saw the Novara exit from the motorway I needed a rest from driving. We really liked Novara. We happened by chance on the Natural History museum and enjoyed the section on the Alps in particular. Also enjoyed the stroll through the pedestrian area in the centre, the Baptistery and its frescoes and the Antonelliana Dome of the Basilica of San Gaudenzio. We went as far as the castle and wished we'd taken a picnic to enjoy in the park beyond but in the end ate well at the Turkish restaurant! (I was born in the Uk and miss some of the multiethnic cuisine, however good risotto may be in the area ;)).I've always snubbed Piedmont but you all enjoy it so much on this forum I'll have to reconsider I think! I've added some photos here and the full description of our day is here on my blog
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Super! Glad you enjoyed it, and like you we've also enjoyed the occasional non-Italian meal in Italy, often interestingly different to the same cuisine back in the UK. On one occasion we went to an Indian restaurant in Ferrara, and I had to help the staff find the wine we ordered in their shelving (Lambrusco - I was very intrigued how it might match with Indian food)
 

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