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Article Pecorino from Pienza

Nice to see artisanal farmers getting the spotlight, even though the article itself is a bit on the "cute" side ("sacred cheese"? But this is the NYTimes after all, so good publicity...).

I didn't see any use of the word terroir - this is a term used mainly in the wine industry - but this is the central theme of the article : how the physical and social environments impact the quality of a food product. In this respect, it makes no difference whether you talk about a piece of cheese, a head of lettuce, olive oil, or a potato - there are many variables that give a foodstuff its uniqueness. Artisanal work is about appreciating and safeguarding these environmental conditions, whether they are the soils and natural vegetation, or the special knowledge involved in the production. Terroir is all this, and the term can be basically used for any type of food grown, or product sourced from that food. From the article : "This valley is full of suffering herbs" - I liked that, that's exactly the connection, and the meaning of "terroir".

One can encounter this respect for the uniqueness of a certain food or product all over Italy - and of course all over the world - wherever small producers take pride in maintaining a certain quality that reflects the special local conditions they work and produce in. We tasted cheese with a similar story - Robiola di Roccaverano - in the Alta Langhe area of Piemonte. Here, too, the wild pastures and special bacteria involved in the aging, give this cheese its uniqueness. This is the cheese we look for when in the region.

At the end of the article, the writer mentions threats on the horizon - climate change, competition - but I think that the number one threat was not mentioned : for quite some time, the economic system puts these small producers at a disadvantage. Which is unfortunate, because they are what making food is about. They should be in a position where it is as easy for them to make a profit as those that are making inferior/mass products, but in reality, for many of them it's harder.
 
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18 years ago we stayed in an apartment on the outskirts of Florence. Close by was an alimentari catering to local residents; largely medical staff at the Careggi Hospital. The owners were two brothers and the wife of one, all in their early 30's. The brothers sourced their Prosciutto from an uncle in Parma and sliced it so thin that they used a 100 year old manual slicer because it generated no heat. The wife sourced her Pecorino Fresco from a relative near Pienza. It was always less than one week old.

We regularly bought our supplies from them, and in 2002 returned to cook them dinner, I made a Pecorino Fresco Pesto - Pecorino, walnuts, wild mint and olive oil. Served it with Linguini. They now give the recipe to their customers "Galgano Pesto".
 
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Back in 2001 my wife and I lived in Pienza for a month. Needless to say we ate a lot of pecorino. We were amazed by how very different the cheeses were depending upon their aging and storage process. I remember one that was wrapped in leaves and aged in a cave. One of the most memorable things about Pienza is the smell of the main drag (Is it Corsa Rossellino?) at the west end of town. If you don't like cheese you'd better hold your breath.
 
Époisses de Bourgogne This cheese is a small-format cow's milk cheese made in the village of Époisses in the eastern part of France. It is washed in Marc de Bourgogne, an unaged brandy that imparts a pungent smell of sour milk. But don't let that deter you! This cheese is the best example of a stinky cheese that is approachable, especially when young; it's great served on a crusty toasted baguette with a Belgian white ale.

We bought this cheese at the market in Chablis around 15 years ago ... they warned us that it is illegal to carry on public transport in France. A neighbour gave me a wheel, a couple of weeks ago. We had to eat in one sitting as it would have stunk out the refrigerator or house after opening.
 

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