Piedmont, April 27-May 5, 2018

[SuzanneF]

We were scheduled to meet up with Cristina who I had booked through Tours by Locals based on a friend's recommendation. She was a great tour guide and we found out she also conducts tours in Genoa. Here is my review:

We had so much fun with Cristina despite the weather not cooperating (rain and drizzle). Her ability to guide us around Torino and descriptions of the sites really brought the city alive for us. We also appreciated her willingness to answer our many questions. It was a pleasure to spend the morning with her - she is enthusiastic and knowledgeable. Thank you, Cristina!

Some of our rainy adventure:

We didn't get as many outdoor photos as we would have liked because of the rain, but it was a great tour.

 

[Pauline]

I pulled up the listing on VRBO on the free wi-fi. Yes, right there, it shows 2 bedrooms. I then looked through the photos and discovered how I could be so misled. In the photos, while they appear to show two different bedrooms; in reality it is the same bedroom taken from different angles with a different cover on the bed!

Wow! What did she say about this? A sofabed in the living room never counts as a bedroom!

 

[Pauline]

Great photos! I love the pastries in the Turin cafe.

I went thru and put spaces between the photos. I think it makes it more readable but perhaps I am being a bit compulsive

 

[SuzanneF]

Wow! What did she say about this? A sofabed in the living room never counts as a bedroom!

We actually didn't address it while Claudio was in the apartment since I was unsure of whether I had somehow made a mistake. When I realized that, no, I did not make a mistake, we discussed it among the four of us. We decided to give it a go and if it became problematic make different arrangements if we could. Because we were all family (two brothers and their wives) we made it work. However, it would have been a different case if we were just two couples who were friends in the same situation. I addressed it in my review - we'll see if they make changes in their listing. If not, I will probably contact VRBO and let them know.

 

[Ian Sutton]

I've always admired the large cakes on display in pasticcerie and better cafes, but with just two of us it's always felt too OTT to get one for just us. The exception has been the crostate at Angolo dei Sapori, which seems to have moved from its previous location in Via Maria Vittoria. So many average crostate, making these shine even more brightly. Simpler than these beautiful creations, but stacks of flavour and great pastry.

Always happy to pick up a selection of biscuits to take home, but such care is needed to avoid them getting smashed to pieces.

Nice to see you frequenting the places on the west of Porta Susa - an area where you'll see few tourists.

 

[SuzanneF]

After a quick bite of lunch, we decided to go see the Automobile Museum and the original Eataly. Not being familiar with the buses, we visited the "I" and found a very helpful young lady. She advised us which bus to take, where to catch it and where to get off. The only problem was she had us getting off several stops beyond where we needed to be which I discovered as I watched our bus pass by Eataly. We got off as quickly as we could and made our way back - first stopping at the Automobile Museum.

The museum was great - a lot to cover. If this is an area of interest to you, it is well worth a visit. NOTE: Bags must be left in lockers and no photos allowed.

We then proceeded to Eataly which was located in easy walking distance from the museum. What a shopping experience for all things Italian!

Would you like some wine?

We had originally thought we might have our dinner here, but it was way too early - so we settled for a little gelato to tide us over. NOTE: You go to the cashier first over on the left between the two posters, tell her the size you want and pay. She then gives you a ticket and you can proceed to choose your gelato. Do not try to order your gelato first or you will be treated like you are some kind of idiot (at least by the cashier/gelato server who was on duty when we visited) for not following correct procedure even though there is no signage indicating said procedure. The gelato was wonderful!!

 

[Ian Sutton]

FWIW I'd say you were lucky to time it badly to avoid dinner. What you experienced with the gelato is (IME) quite typical for the dining options there, so much so we wouldn't consider eating there again. Customers often treated with disdain, or at best as a mild annoyance. The food didn't impress either.

The food shopping is a step up, and the sheer volume in one location makes it very useful. I've said here before, that IMO there is better food, better experiences and better value elsewhere in the city. However if judged as a supermarket, it's a truly exceptional one, and that volume means I'll often swing by the day before I leave the city, to plug the gaps in any foods that I've not picked up already. Also useful that there is plenty already vacuum sealed, handy for the journey home.

Likewise the wine selection is very extensive, a little pricey, but not stupidly so. It's a fine place to pick up lesser known wines, and also a great place for dessert wines. Again a very useful place to fill the gaps.

A very fine beer range as well, and it's here the convenience really wins for me.

Regards
Ian

 

[SuzanneF]

THURSDAY - VISITING ANCESTRAL TOWNS

Today was the day we scheduled our drive northward to visit the towns where Tom and Dave's ancestors lived prior to their journeys to the United States.

It was, of course, raining - intermittent light rain with the occasional downpour. We took the backroads - first stop, Pratiglione. Because the weather wasn't cooperating, we just stopped quickly and didn't even take pictures. Maybe we can stop again later when the weather is nicer since it is such a beautiful view from the town.

Next, we made our way to Canischio. We had emailed the sindaco, Riccardo Rosa-Cardinal, who we met on our very first trip to the area. He was planning to be in the office, but unfortunately was not. Oh well, we would be seeing him on Saturday at the family gathering.

Off to the woods! The Ferro-Bosone family farmed land high on the hillside above Canischio. The starting point for the hike is the Madonna della Neve Chapel. This chapel is only opened one day a year in August, so we have never seen the inside.

Tom and Dave's great-grandfather Giuseppe Ferro Bosone was born here in 1879 and left for the US in 1900 at age 20 with $38 in his pocket and joined relatives in Indiana. In 1921, his father Giovanni Battista Ferro Bosone left Canischio travelling by himself to join his children in the US. He was 78 years old, spoke only Italian and could not read nor write. Some of the family remained in Italy and farmed here until around 1950. The family home has been abandoned since then.

We have been told by some knowledgeable friends that the style of the column shown below (square for first level, then round for other levels) is a style that is very specific to this area.

We have no idea of when the first dwelling was built, but over the years as the family grew - they just kept adding on. It's amazing how much of it is still standing after being abandoned over 70 years ago!

Next stop Cuorgne!

We decided to stop for a quick bite to eat at the Ipercoop in Cuorgne. This has been our go-to place in the past for a light lunch. They always have a good variety of really fresh items to choose from.

Thursday is market day in Cuorgne, so parking was at a premium! Fortunately, we found a spot in a section of the old town. This is the house where Tom and Dave's grandfather Angelo Ferrero was born in 1899. The family emigrated to the US in 1907 when he was a young boy.

From research that Tom has done, his great-grandfather was a farmer. He believes at that time the family would have lived here - livestock on 1st floor, family on 2nd floor, and storage on 3rd. He has located two possible sites located just outside of the old town where the actual farmland could have been.

Before we headed back to Torino, we had promised to take Dave (for his daily gelato fix) to our favorite gelato shop in Cuorgne - Gelato Gallery.

 

[SuzanneF]

FRIDAY - DAY IN TORINO TURNED INTO DAY IN AOSTA

We had originally planned to stay in Torino today and visit some museums and just wander around. Unfortunately, it was raining (still) so our plans changed. Tom and Dave were looking at various weather sites and, while everything showed rain all day in Torino, they noticed that the weather seemed to be skirting the Val D'Aosta region. We decided to take a chance and head north! What a great decision - not only was the weather great, but we had a wonderful (and unexpected) visit to Aosta.

When we left that morning, we had no idea of the history of Aosta; we just wanted to see some sunshine after so many days of rainy weather. The city was incredible.

The Porta Praetoria

After entering the old city through the Porta Praetoria, we purchased a full ticket which would allow us access to all the Roman sites.

The Roman Theater

 

[Ian Sutton]

I love your willingness to throw a plan out of the window and seize the opportunity.

I really liked Aosta, not just the city and sights, but there seemed a greater than normal sense of genuine warmth amongst the people in shops etc. A highlight was the somewhat eccentric (but charming) lady in the tea shop, whose brain seemed to be two-three sentences ahead of the conversation. If I lived there I'd be a regular customer.

 

[SuzanneF]

Via Porta Praetoria is a pedestrian street through part of the city with lots of places to eat and small shops. We found a funky little place for lunch where we could sit outside and enjoy people-watching.

After lunch we headed out to visit more Roman ruins. The Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta was not open, so we couldn't see the inside. However, based on the exterior it must be magnificent.

 

[SuzanneF]

The Forum and Cryptoporticus

For me, this was absolutely fascinating. There is a continuous loop film (In Italian, French & English) at the far end that explains the development of the Roman city. It also shows where all the various sites are located in relation to the current city.

The Entrance

First Views

Then you walk down to the corner . . .

. . . turn at the corner and see this!

According to the film, they are continually excavating and restoring more of this area which is located under the current city.

It was time to leave Aosta, but on the way to our car we had to stop for Dave's Daily Gelato Fix. While Dave had gelato, several of us chose crepes from the same shop. I think that is what I liked about Aosta - it is a blend of Italian and French throughout the city reflecting its history of being a cross-roads between Italy and France predating Rome.

 

[SuzanneF]

Our last stop before returning to the apartment was the Castello Ducale di Aglie, one of the Savoy Royal Residences.

Private Theater

Private Theater Viewing Box

The Church with enclosed access from the castle on the left side.

Savoy family private seating area.

Thus, our totally unexpected, unplanned day came to an end. I would call it a success.

 

[SuzanneF]

SATURDAY - FAMIGLIA (and last day of our trip)

We left our Torino apartment and started travelling back towards Cuorgnè where we would be meeting up with family early afternoon. We planned on stopping in Pratiglione again since it looked like the weather might be cooperating - and it was!

The Ferrios at Pratiglione where great-grandmother Domenica Vittoria Carrera was born in 1880.

We headed to Cuorgnè where we would be meeting up with family. Meeting was set for 1:00 at Bar My Coffee which is owned by 4th cousin Eriko. It's hard to believe, but it has been four years since our last visit. On our last visit, Eriko and Claudia were expecting their first child and have now had a second. And sadly the patriarch of the family, Giuseppe Ferro-Bosone passed away in 2015. We have to make it a priority to get back more frequently!!!

We had a wonderful visit and Eriko outdid himself with all the wonderful food and lots of wine.

Our missing (from Thursday) Canischio Sindaco, Riccardo, showed up.

Lucia is the first girl born into this line of the Ferro-Bosone family in over 100 years!!

Claudia and the two new additions since our last visit.

The FAMILY
Back row, left to right: Claudia, Carlo, Tom, Lucia, Maurizio, Dave, Cindy
Front row: Constanza, Suzanne, Eriko

A WONDERFUL VISIT!!!!

 

[SuzanneF]

We made arrangements with Riccardo to visit a small chapel near Canischio that his family maintains since it is no longer supported by the Catholic Church. His mother (a Donna descendent) met us and we were able to show Dave and Cindy this special place.

Rev. Don. Giuseppe L. Donna founded St Lawrence Catholic Church in South Wilmington, Illinois. Upon his return to Italy, he had this chapel built.

We always enjoy visiting this small chapel and have so much admiration for the family's efforts to maintain it.

 

[SuzanneF]

Our trip was coming to an end, but we had one more stop to make. We always visit the cemetery and the small chapel attached to the church in Canischio. We have never found the church open; but this time as we were starting to drive away, a man and women walked up and unlocked the church doors! When we asked if we could go in, they kindly said yes and then proceeded to give us a tour of the entire church.

The chapel attached to the church where we always light a candle.

The Church

It was time to check into our hotel near the Torino airport. Our flight was at 6:00 am, so this was the most convenient thing to do. We stayed at Hotel Le Rondini in San Francesco al Campo. This was a great choice at 86.00€. We had originally planned to return our rental car this evening so we wouldn't have to deal with it first thing in the morning. However, while the website said the hotel had an airport shuttle, it turned out they would arrange a taxi. We changed our plans to keeping the car until morning - fortunately, the friendly gentleman and the front desk called for us and got everything arranged with the rental company. If you need a hotel near Torino airport, I would highly recommend Hotel Le Rondini.

The hotel made a dinner reservation for us at a nearby restaurant, Londrina. While it was very busy with many families and other groups of locals, this was probably our least favorite meal of the trip. The restaurant was an easy walk from the hotel, but I would recommend venturing further out for a restaurant if you can.

Sunday morning came early and our return flights all went smoothly.

Our trip is now history, but what wonderful memories we will have for years to come.

 

[Ian Sutton]

special - I could just imagine Andrew on Italy unpacked finding such a place and being thrilled to share the experience. It looks a wonderful chapel.

 

[Pauline]

The Forum and Cryptoporticus

For me, this was absolutely fascinating.

We did a day trip to Aosta two years ago and loved the town. We had been there 30 years ago but did not remember much. But - we missed these Roman ruins! We saw the other ones you have photos for, but not these underground ones. Next time!

 

[Pauline]

Thanks for a wonderful trip report and great photos!!

 

[SuzanneF]

I enjoyed writing it - it allowed me to relive everything. Yes, we really enjoyed our day in Aosta. Tom just heard from his brother who had been showing other family members his photos. Now they've all decided that I need to plan a trip for all of them! Yikes!!!!!!