• CONTACT US if you have any problems registering for the forums.

Greece Rambles in the Peloponnese - Sept. 19 - Oct 4, 2018

Doug Phillips

100+ Posts
Contest 2019 Winner!
Why we were there
The genesis of this trip came at the Living Locally Fair in Russell, Ontario in January 2017. A man was selling olive oil from his family’s property in the Peloponnese part of Greece. Along with the bottles of oil there was a small display with photos, maps & text. I was intrigued.
“What’s it like there?” I asked Rob Andrew.
“It’s beautiful,” he replied.
Good enough for me.
Planning
Over the next year+, I made dozens of decisions that led to our two weeks in the Peloponnese along with a last day near the Athens airport. We were also fortunate to have Colleen & Bob as our travel companions for the third time, following visits to Sardinia and Crete.
Resources: There are not many guide books devoted to the Peloponnese. Fortunately, there is at least one that is excellent – Greece: The Peloponnese by Andrew Bostock, (Bradt, 2016).
IMG_5578.JPG


I picked up a laminated map of the area at the first gas station stop away from the Athens airport. Both the book & the map were invaluable.
IMG_5579.JPG
IMG_5580.JPG


I can highly recommend the movie Before Midnight with Ethan Hawke & Julie Delpy. It is set in several locations in the Peloponnese.
IMG_5585.JPG

Also, a friend recommended a visit to Monemvasia.
Along with internet searches, that was it.
Flights: Air Canada from Ottawa to Athens & return, with a connecting flight from Montreal both ways.
Locations & Accommodations:
The biggest decisions were where to stay, for how long and in what accommodations. Below are the results after much consideration.
Nafplio - 2 nights – Porto Bello - problematic for those with mobility issues. The “street” is actually a staircase. You have to walk UP (about 80) or DOWN (about 30) steps to reach it; else excellent.
Finikounda - 8 nights – Vereneki Apartments – our Slow Travel base for the south-western Peloponnese, the most interesting region. An EXCELLENT place to stay in the area
Monemvasia - 2 nights – Flower of Monemvasia Hotel – located on the mainland, not the island.
Kardamyli - 2 nights in the Mani – Marina Studios – great location; modest, but very acceptable rooms.
Rafina -1 night – Margarita’s Villa – out of the Peloponnese, north of Athens, a short drive to the Athens airport. Superior accommodations.
All our accommodations met or exceeded our expectations.
Car Rental:
We rented a VW Caddy via Greeka.com. This site appears to be a broker for smaller companies. We were very satisfied with our choice. We dealt directly with the company owner at the Athens airport and saved a lot of money.
IMG_0731.JPG
 
Last edited:
What we did

Nafplio
is a lively commercial centre & port. In 1827, it was the first capital of modern Greece after Turkish rule was overthrown in the region. Its Venetian historical connection makes it comparable in some ways to Chania on Crete, although the latter has a much more attractive seafront & harbour area. Nafplio offered the best shopping of any of our locations, some nearby beaches, the impressive Palamidi fortress overlooking the town and the unique Bourtzi castle in the middle of the harbour. That's Nafplio, showing the Bourtzi castle on the guide book cover. We climbed to the top of the fortress, shopped & walked the busy streets, swam in one of the beaches, ate in the restaurants. Nafplio is also within easy driving distance to the ruins of ancient Mycenae, the theater of Epidaurus and a wine route. But we didn’t indulge in those activities.
IMG_0717.JPG


Finikounda is a small seaside village at the southwestern tip of the Peloponnese. Its main assets are several restaurants and nearby beaches, a flat terrain and location on a good highway that makes day trips near & far possible. We spent parts of several days on Lampes Beach, every dinner at one of Finikounda’s restaurants and made several excursions, including to the following: Pilos, Methoni, Koroni, Vourania, Gialova, the spectacular Voidokilia Beach and both modern Messini and ancient Messene. Our 8 days based in Finikounda was the favourite part of our time in the Peloponnese.
IMG_0945.JPG


Monemvasia is a small community located on an island off the east coast of the Peloponnese. It is linked to the mainland by a small causeway. Cars park on the road leading up to the entrance of the town, but none are allowed, or indeed likely even able, to enter the community. Monemvasia is often unfairly compared to Gibraltar. Unfair, that is, to Monemvasia. While a tourist magnet, Monemvasia still has a lot of charm and appeal to the visitor. We stayed on the mainland, but spent most of our time on the island. A two-day visit was enough for the area. That's an overhead view of the community on the cover of the Peloponnese map.
IMG_1304.JPG


Kardamyli is a tiny village in a great location between the waters of the Gulf of Messinia and the Taygetos Mountains. Entering, leaving or driving anywhere around the area involves a lot of hills. It is near the beginning of the Mani Peninsula, the middle peninsula of the Peloponnese. The Mani was an isolated region until a few decades ago. It features some stunningly bleak landscapes, small villages, excellent olive oil, and Vathia, a virtually abandoned community of tower-houses in the Deep Mani. Vathia bears a slight resemblance to San Gimigiano in Tuscany, except that almost nobody lives in Vathia. However, the Mani also shows many signs of revitalization - at least one large resort, a “trendy” village (Gerolimenas), and lots of new construction visible from the highway. Kardamyli was our base for a visit to the Mani – where we slept and ate and did a bit of shopping. We paid a brief visit to the nearby village of Platsa and we also managed to get some beach time at Kalogria Beach.
IMG_0003 - Copy - Copy.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nafplio, Greece - Sept. 19-20, 2018
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0625.JPG
    IMG_0625.JPG
    1.8 MB · Views: 60
  • IMG_0626.JPG
    IMG_0626.JPG
    1.8 MB · Views: 32
  • IMG_0627.JPG
    IMG_0627.JPG
    1.9 MB · Views: 28
  • IMG_0630.JPG
    IMG_0630.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 32
  • IMG_0745.JPG
    IMG_0745.JPG
    629.2 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_0746.JPG
    IMG_0746.JPG
    580.9 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0612.JPG
    IMG_0612.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 31
  • IMG_0661.JPG
    IMG_0661.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0768.JPG
    IMG_0768.JPG
    671.1 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_0748.JPG
    IMG_0748.JPG
    414.5 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_0659.JPG
    IMG_0659.JPG
    1 MB · Views: 59
  • IMG_0682.JPG
    IMG_0682.JPG
    1.4 MB · Views: 29
  • IMG_0700.JPG
    IMG_0700.JPG
    825.8 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_0708.JPG
    IMG_0708.JPG
    595.3 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0060 - Copy (2).jpg
    IMG_0060 - Copy (2).jpg
    730.7 KB · Views: 31
Last edited:
The Kalamata Airport, Sept, 21, 2018

Before Midnight, the movie with Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy, was filmed at various locations in the Peloponnese in 2012. I watched & enjoyed the movie shortly before we left Canada. The opening scene takes place at the very small airport in Kalamata located just off the road between Kalamata and Messina. I recognized the airport as we approached and decided to pull into the parking lot & take a quick photo of the exterior. I didn’t want to inconvenience my travelling companions, none of whom had seen the movie. While I was taking a few photos, they decided to get a coffee in the airport, so I followed them inside.

I recognized the details of the interior from the movie – the concession stand, the seating area, the departure gate. I approached the concession stand & asked the young woman behind the counter if she knew about the movie. She didn’t have a clue what I was talking about, but then a female voice on my right said, “I was here, and so was she,” pointing to another woman nearby. They have the same name, Voula. And they are both in the movie. We had a very enjoyable conversation about the movie and the passage of time – “6 years ago! It seems like yesterday.” They asked me to send them copies of their pictures and so I shall.

A personal highlight of my time on this, or any other, trip.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0773.JPG
    IMG_0773.JPG
    537.7 KB · Views: 25
  • IMG_0776.JPG
    IMG_0776.JPG
    480.8 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_0781.JPG
    IMG_0781.JPG
    456.8 KB · Views: 28
  • IMG_0783.JPG
    IMG_0783.JPG
    438 KB · Views: 28
  • IMG_0778.JPG
    IMG_0778.JPG
    367.4 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0780.JPG
    IMG_0780.JPG
    525.1 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
Finikounda, Greece - Sept. 21-28, 2018

Finikounda is a small seaside village at the southwestern tip of the Peloponnese. It is basically one long street with restaurants on the water side and shops with local, artisanal and tourist offerings on the other. Away from the main street there is a small supermarket, some homes, local businesses, rental accommodations and a Greek Orthodox church, whose priest was watering the lawn most times we walked by in the early evening. There is a main road defining the edge of the village.

We stayed at Vereneki Apartments, located on the other side of the main road, a few minutes walk to the seaside. We thoroughly enjoyed our time based in Finikounda. We had an excellent apartment. It even included a pool a few steps away. Parking was very convenient, just across the road. We walked to dinner each evening. We spent parts of several days on beautiful breaches – on a couple of days that’s all we did. The Zanzibar Beach Bar on nearby Lampres Beach took care of all our needs.

We made several day trips throughout the area. It was very easy to travel around the region because it is a mostly flat or reasonable terrain for driving – something that cannot be said for everywhere in the Peloponnese.

If you read online reviews, you will discover that the village is like Sara Lee – “Nobody doesn’t like Finikounda.”
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0945.JPG
    IMG_0945.JPG
    61.1 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_0808.JPG
    IMG_0808.JPG
    50.6 KB · Views: 27
  • IMG_0816.JPG
    IMG_0816.JPG
    24.2 KB · Views: 38
  • IMG_0810.JPG
    IMG_0810.JPG
    71.4 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_0966.JPG
    IMG_0966.JPG
    55.5 KB · Views: 34
  • IMG_0969.JPG
    IMG_0969.JPG
    47.6 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_0837.JPG
    IMG_0837.JPG
    67.8 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_0802.JPG
    IMG_0802.JPG
    62.1 KB · Views: 29
  • IMG_1217.JPG
    IMG_1217.JPG
    49.5 KB · Views: 57
  • IMG_1220.JPG
    IMG_1220.JPG
    90.5 KB · Views: 36
  • IMG_0827.JPG
    IMG_0827.JPG
    48.3 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_0829.JPG
    IMG_0829.JPG
    73.8 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_0832.JPG
    IMG_0832.JPG
    87.7 KB · Views: 58
  • IMG_0942.JPG
    IMG_0942.JPG
    73.9 KB · Views: 27
  • IMG_0004 (4).jpg
    IMG_0004 (4).jpg
    389 KB · Views: 28
Last edited:
Pylos, Greece - Sept. 23, 2018

Pylos, like most coastal towns in the Peloponnese, has a long & significant history. There is even a monument in the town square that fronts on the sea to commemorate an important naval battle, the Battle Of Navarino, 1827 - part of the Greek War of Independence. But I was most impressed by the beauty of the square and the lovely restaurant canopies formed by large trees.

A morning pause in Pylos for some shopping, a walk through the weekly market, pics of another Before Midnight scene, and a coffee before moving on. Worth a re-visit, but we never made it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0881.JPG
    IMG_0881.JPG
    100.1 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_0876.JPG
    IMG_0876.JPG
    108 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_0878.JPG
    IMG_0878.JPG
    95.4 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_0886.JPG
    IMG_0886.JPG
    111.5 KB · Views: 34
  • IMG_0865.JPG
    IMG_0865.JPG
    62.5 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0868.JPG
    IMG_0868.JPG
    76 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_0889.JPG
    IMG_0889.JPG
    77.9 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0870.JPG
    IMG_0870.JPG
    59.7 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_0871.JPG
    IMG_0871.JPG
    56.3 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_0892.JPG
    IMG_0892.JPG
    60.5 KB · Views: 25
Last edited:
Gialova & Voidokilia, Greece - Sept. 23, 2018

Lunch at Zoe resort hotel in the small village of Gialova on Navarino Bay. Gialova is a popular holiday area. We were drawn there by positive reviews of the restaurant at Zoe. "The veg comes from their own organic garden .... The tables are practically on the sand."

We spent most of the afternoon at nearby Voidokilia Beach. I had to resort to a postcard to show the full scope of this amazing beach. We weren't alone, but the beach is so extensive we might as well have been.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0896.JPG
    IMG_0896.JPG
    105.7 KB · Views: 23
  • IMG_0897.JPG
    IMG_0897.JPG
    86.1 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_0899.JPG
    IMG_0899.JPG
    67 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_0901.JPG
    IMG_0901.JPG
    80.7 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_0906.JPG
    IMG_0906.JPG
    102.6 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_0004.jpg
    IMG_0004.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 19
  • IMG_0915.JPG
    IMG_0915.JPG
    63.5 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_0917.JPG
    IMG_0917.JPG
    57.3 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_0920.JPG
    IMG_0920.JPG
    51.5 KB · Views: 24
Messini & Messene, Greece - Sept. 26, 2018

The modern town of Messini is a vibrant community a reasonable drive from Finikounda & a few kilometres west of Kalamata. It has an attractive, busy centre featuring several cafes, a wide variety of shops & street vendors selling food over hot grills, crowded pedestrian sidewalks & roadways, a large market on streets running off the centre, and a good vibe – or at least it had when we were there one morning. We parked, probably illegally, but not alone, a short walk from the centre; walked around for a bit; stopped at one of the cafes next to a fountain; bought some meat from a guy who chopped off pieces of a pig with a cleaver (see pic); then headed north about 15 kms and back in time over 2000 years.

The ancient city of Messene was about the same size as the modern Messini and likely as lively. The site is the largest & most complex in the Peloponnese. Its remote location & distance from Athens means that there are no large tour buses at Messene. I’m not a big fan of visiting ruins at this stage of my life, but Messene was certainly worth the time & effort.

A stop for a late lunch at the hillside village of Ithoni, with a view overlooking Messene.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0975.JPG
    IMG_0975.JPG
    78.2 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_0976.JPG
    IMG_0976.JPG
    81.1 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_0986.JPG
    IMG_0986.JPG
    74.8 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_0988.JPG
    IMG_0988.JPG
    70.6 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_0999.JPG
    IMG_0999.JPG
    76 KB · Views: 23
  • IMG_1013.JPG
    IMG_1013.JPG
    78.6 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_1005.JPG
    IMG_1005.JPG
    84.9 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_1050.JPG
    IMG_1050.JPG
    94.5 KB · Views: 24
  • IMG_1058.JPG
    IMG_1058.JPG
    75.7 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_1076.JPG
    IMG_1076.JPG
    69 KB · Views: 28
  • IMG_1079.JPG
    IMG_1079.JPG
    67.6 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_1080.JPG
    IMG_1080.JPG
    71.3 KB · Views: 23
Koroni & Vounaria, Greece - Sept. 27, 2018

Koroni is a small town on the Gulf of Messinia about 20 km from Finikounda. Its history goes back to ancient times. At various times it was under the control of Venice & the Ottoman Empire, like most of the area. It is built on the side of a hill, which means that the visitor has to negotiate heavily inclined, twisting, narrow streets on entering or leaving. Large tour buses and camper trailers are banned from entering Koroni. However, there is a regional bus service, which creates a distraction when the bus arrives.

The main features are the harbour and the Venetian castle, but the most attractive parts of the town to me are the largely pedestrianized back streets with attractive storefronts and good quality products. As in many towns we visited, there is more than one bakery. There is also a pastry shop functioning like a restaurant. We spent a few pleasant hours in Koroni.

Vounaria is a tiny village a short drive north of Koroni. It has an excellent beach, which we didn’t visit, a new luxury resort - Camvilia Resort Messina – and not much else. The only reason for our visit is that Vounaria is the source of the olive oil that led to our time in the Peloponnese. So, I had to pay a brief visit.
You don’t have to go to Vounaria.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1167.JPG
    IMG_1167.JPG
    64.8 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_1169.JPG
    IMG_1169.JPG
    63.5 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1168.JPG
    IMG_1168.JPG
    63.6 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_1174.JPG
    IMG_1174.JPG
    73.5 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_1182.JPG
    IMG_1182.JPG
    67.5 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_1183.JPG
    IMG_1183.JPG
    50 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_1184.JPG
    IMG_1184.JPG
    68.2 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1190.JPG
    IMG_1190.JPG
    58.8 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_1193.JPG
    IMG_1193.JPG
    71.1 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1197.JPG
    IMG_1197.JPG
    66.9 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1154.JPG
    IMG_1154.JPG
    60.3 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1199.JPG
    IMG_1199.JPG
    59.9 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1092.JPG
    IMG_1092.JPG
    56 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1104 (2).JPG
    IMG_1104 (2).JPG
    83.6 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1106 (2).JPG
    IMG_1106 (2).JPG
    91.7 KB · Views: 15
Methoni, Greece - Sept. 28, 2018

Methoni is another small seaside village, the next one to Finikounda, only 11kms away. I was interested in a visit to Methoni, since I was considering using it as our base in the area, before opting for Finikounda. It is best known for its Venetian castle, which we toured, but we have a much better memory of Methoni.

The first several days in the Peloponnese, we had very warm weather & cloudless skies all day long. We had similar conditions for all or parts of the rest of our days, but on a few days we had cloudy skies & high winds for part of the day. The two worst weather days – rainy & windy most of the day - were long travel days, so we weren’t sitting around waiting for conditions to improve. Our day in Methoni was one of the variable days. We sunned ourselves by the pool in the morning & braved the elements touring Methoni castle in the afternoon.

The highlight of our time in Methoni was lunch at Taverna To Kastro (The Castle), across the street from the entrance to Methoni castle. A large party that had taken over most of the restaurant, with only a single table for 4 available. We soon discovered that our dining companions were members of the same family that had moved away from the village decades ago, with some members returning from time to time for variable lengths of time. One couple had been coming back to Methoni from Vancouver for a few months each of the last 20 years. In addition to the Canadian couple, people had come from Boston, Australia and Italy. It was a very friendly group and we were invited into some of their conversations.

And the food was excellent. The owner sat with us for a time, explaining that the cooks were his wife & son – the wife prepared traditional dishes & his culinary school trained son introduced more modern dishes to the menu. Unfortunately, the lease on the property expires in 2019, so they will have to relocate.

The castle is spread over a wide area, with many interesting features. Our time exploring the castle was a bit of a challenge in the day’s conditions.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1231.JPG
    IMG_1231.JPG
    68 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_1225.JPG
    IMG_1225.JPG
    72.7 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_1235.JPG
    IMG_1235.JPG
    41.9 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_1240.JPG
    IMG_1240.JPG
    63.3 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_1289.JPG
    IMG_1289.JPG
    54.3 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_1245.JPG
    IMG_1245.JPG
    74.8 KB · Views: 24
  • IMG_1250.JPG
    IMG_1250.JPG
    59.7 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_1256.JPG
    IMG_1256.JPG
    62.5 KB · Views: 48
  • IMG_1263.JPG
    IMG_1263.JPG
    52.1 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_1268.JPG
    IMG_1268.JPG
    54.4 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_1280.JPG
    IMG_1280.JPG
    79.7 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_1279.JPG
    IMG_1279.JPG
    80 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_1281.JPG
    IMG_1281.JPG
    59 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_1286.JPG
    IMG_1286.JPG
    57.8 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1288.JPG
    IMG_1288.JPG
    72 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:
Monemvasia, Greece – Sept. 29-30, 2018

On Saturday we drove across the Peloponnese from west to east, arriving in the amazing village of Monemvasia in the early afternoon. We had inclement weather almost all the way. A cyclone had passed nearby in the night – some large rocks/boulders were on the road early in our trip & we had a couple of periods of very heavy rain – but overall, not nearly as bad as we had been expecting. Conditions improved greatly as we came closer to Monemvasia.

Monemvasia is a small community on a large rock, an island connected to the mainland by a causeway. Vehicles can drive over the causeway and up to the gateway entrance to the town, but cannot enter. It is a pedestrian-only village of winding narrow streets and staircases, a few public squares, a lighthouse, ruins of a castle & early settlement at the top - the Upper Town - and a very tourist-friendly Lower Town of shops, cafes, restaurants, churches & small hotels. The main point of Monemvasia is to wander around, taking in as much as you want in however much time is available. We had almost a day and a half.

Actually, we didn’t stay in/on Monemvasia. Our hotel – The Flower of Monemvasia - was on the mainland near the causeway, and a short walk down to a rocky beach – great for swimming in the late afternoon. The mainland village has another name, Gefyra, but I’ve only seen used it in guidebooks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1412.JPG
    IMG_1412.JPG
    59.3 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1318.JPG
    IMG_1318.JPG
    47.8 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_1329.JPG
    IMG_1329.JPG
    69 KB · Views: 10
  • IMG_1334.JPG
    IMG_1334.JPG
    58.8 KB · Views: 10
  • IMG_1354.JPG
    IMG_1354.JPG
    66 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_1365.JPG
    IMG_1365.JPG
    80.7 KB · Views: 41
  • IMG_1366.JPG
    IMG_1366.JPG
    84.2 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_1373.JPG
    IMG_1373.JPG
    73.4 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1377.JPG
    IMG_1377.JPG
    64.9 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_1386.JPG
    IMG_1386.JPG
    82.2 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_1394.JPG
    IMG_1394.JPG
    85.3 KB · Views: 10
  • IMG_3071.JPG
    IMG_3071.JPG
    85.4 KB · Views: 10
  • IMG_3073.JPG
    IMG_3073.JPG
    66.3 KB · Views: 10
  • IMG_3075.JPG
    IMG_3075.JPG
    55.6 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_0004 (2).jpg
    IMG_0004 (2).jpg
    813.2 KB · Views: 11
Into the Mani – Aeropoli, Vathia, Gerolimenas, Greece - Oct. 1, 2018

The Mani is the middle of the 3 peninsulae of the Peloponnese. It is hemmed in by the Targetos Mountains and in days past was a rather remote and forbidding region. When modern roads came into the Mani a few decades ago, there was widespread rural depopulation which now seems to be reversing.

From Monemvasia we drove over to Aeropoli (first 2 photos), then turned south into the Deep Mani and the unique towered village of Vathia. Vathia is an almost totally abandoned settlement. There is no commerce, with the only sign of life being some clothes drying on a line. Stony pathways wind up, down and around the village. Rubble, bits of old furniture and collapsed roofing are common to most of the interiors, with only a few tourists, including ourselves, walking around.

Elsewhere on our drive in the Deep Mani, we saw signs of new private residences on the hillsides, a large luxury resort on top of one of the hills and revitalization in some of the small villages. I missed a turn & ended up driving into one of these villages – Gerolimenas – set in a sheltered harbour and featuring old stone buildings and fishing boats resting at anchor on one side, a small, beautiful beach & hills on the other side and newer seaside restaurants in the middle, looking out onto a gorgeous blue sea. If you look up “picturesque” in the dictionary, there’s a good chance you’ll see a photo of Gerolimenas. Attracted by the charms of the village, we made an unscheduled stop in Gerolimenas before heading north to Kardamyli.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1429.JPG
    IMG_1429.JPG
    74.1 KB · Views: 28
  • IMG_1433.JPG
    IMG_1433.JPG
    79.2 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1471.JPG
    IMG_1471.JPG
    69.3 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_1442.JPG
    IMG_1442.JPG
    77 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_1446.JPG
    IMG_1446.JPG
    93.1 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_1447.JPG
    IMG_1447.JPG
    80.7 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1449.JPG
    IMG_1449.JPG
    52.9 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1454.JPG
    IMG_1454.JPG
    70.9 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1458.JPG
    IMG_1458.JPG
    72.4 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_1460.JPG
    IMG_1460.JPG
    64.3 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1465.JPG
    IMG_1465.JPG
    82.3 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1478.JPG
    IMG_1478.JPG
    64.3 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_1480.JPG
    IMG_1480.JPG
    83.8 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_1490.JPG
    IMG_1490.JPG
    73.5 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_0005 (2).jpg
    IMG_0005 (2).jpg
    728.1 KB · Views: 22
Last edited:
Kardamyli, Greece - Oct. 1-2 2018

Early in our time in the Peloponnese, I stopped at the airport in Kalamata because that was the setting for the opening scene in Before Midnight. We spent our last two nights in a Marina Studios apartment next to the sea in Kardamyli, where, by chance, I had an unobstructed view of the setting of the bittersweet final scene of the movie (first photo).

Kardamyli is another small seaside village, one of the larger and more appealing ones in the area. It is a hub for travellers & hikers of all kinds. It is a very pleasant place to just wander around for a short time – attractive homes & sea views, interesting back streets. There are many places to stay, several cafes, some good restaurants (Lela’s Tavern & Harilaos were locally recommended – both good choices) & good shopping at several stores on the main street offering local products, artisanal jewelry, clothing, food and typical tourist tat. I purchased some local olive oil at one shop (Dimitra Greengrocer's) and in another store the owner pulled the tin from my bag & pronounced it “good oil.”

Kardamyli is known as a busy place, but we were there at the end of the season. It was pretty quiet, except for some traffic passing through the village on the main street. Almost nothing was open until 9:30am and not many people were around at any time of the day. The village is a very good base for the Mani region.

Kardamyli has some literary connections. The ashes of Bruce Chatwin, author of In Patagonia, The Songlines and Utz, among others, are scattered above the village. The British soldier, adventurer and writer Patrick Leigh Fermor lived most of his post-war years in a house in an olive grove near Kardamyli. His home is the setting for a long dinner scene in Before Midnight. The home is undergoing renovations and will re-open as a writer’s retreat.
 
Kalogria Beach & Platsa, Greece - Oct. 2 2018

A warm sunny day for our last one on the Peloponnese. There are several beaches around Kardamyli. We selected Kalogria, the one with the easiest access – no steep, narrow descents on rough roads/pathways as in a couple of others. There until mid-afternoon, then off to the village of Platsa a few kilometres away for a short visit.

Kardamyli may be quiet at this time of year, but Platsa seemed almost deserted. No businesses open on the square; few signs of activity anywhere we ventured. The narrow winding streets of Platsa were part of the setting for another Beyond Midnight scene. We met a local who said that her neighbour was thrilled that her shutters made it into the movie.

Back to Kardamyli in the late afternoon. Wine on our balcony overlooking the Gulf of Messinia, dinner at Harilaos a few steps from our door & packing for tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Corinth Canal, Lutraki & Rafina, Greece - Oct. 3, 2018

Rain off & on this morning from Kardamyli through the Peloponnese. The passage from Kardamyli to Kalamata is a sinuous two-lane road. My usual driving strategy in such situations is to get behind a bigger vehicle - a bus is best - & stay there. From Kalamata on, we drove on a modern multi-lane divided toll highway all the way to Athens.

Our first stop was at the iconic Corinth Canal. Pretty impressive sight – worth braving the elements. I asked for lunch recommendations at the tourist office – was directed to the town of Lutraki a few kilometers away. The “beach” there was cluttered with debris from the recent stormy weather, I think. Good lunch at an almost-empty restaurant, then off toward Rafina. As we approached Athens we saw the effects of the deadly summer wildfires that ravaged the area – large swaths of hillsides denuded of vegetation – only the charred remnants of thousands of trees. And it got much worse as we drove through communities like Marathon, even to Rafina. Block after block of houses with only the concrete shells standing. The devastation reached to within 100 metres of our villa apartment.

Rafina is a port town, perhaps best known as embarkation point for Greek island cruises or ferry service to islands like Santorini and Andros. It is a few kilometres north of the Athens airport. We had our last meal at a recommended restaurant Seirenes (Sirens) on the harbourfront.

Uneventful flight back to Ottawa, via Montreal on October 4. Uneventful, just the way I like it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1618.JPG
    IMG_1618.JPG
    56.8 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_1613.JPG
    IMG_1613.JPG
    66.3 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1628.JPG
    IMG_1628.JPG
    45.2 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_1627.JPG
    IMG_1627.JPG
    51.4 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1629.JPG
    IMG_1629.JPG
    62.7 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_1635.JPG
    IMG_1635.JPG
    64.2 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1636.JPG
    IMG_1636.JPG
    66.4 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1653.JPG
    IMG_1653.JPG
    62.9 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1654.JPG
    IMG_1654.JPG
    47.9 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1676.JPG
    IMG_1676.JPG
    57.5 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1643.JPG
    IMG_1643.JPG
    68.2 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_1642.JPG
    IMG_1642.JPG
    48.9 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_1663.JPG
    IMG_1663.JPG
    69.9 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_1669.JPG
    IMG_1669.JPG
    58.5 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_0003 (4).jpg
    IMG_0003 (4).jpg
    527.1 KB · Views: 11
Corinth Canal, Lutraki & Rafina, Greece - Oct. 3, 2018

Rain off & on this morning from Kardamyli through the Peloponnese. The passage from Kardamyli to Kalamata is a sinuous two-lane road. My usual driving strategy in such situations is to get behind a bigger vehicle - a bus is best - & stay there. From Kalamata on, we drove on a modern multi-lane divided toll highway all the way to Athens.

Our first stop was at the iconic Corinth Canal. Pretty impressive sight – worth braving the elements. I asked for lunch recommendations at the tourist office – was directed to the town of Lutraki a few kilometers away. The “beach” there was cluttered with debris from the recent stormy weather, I think. Good lunch at an almost-empty restaurant, then off toward Rafina. As we approached Athens we saw the effects of the deadly summer wildfires that ravaged the area – large swaths of hillsides denuded of vegetation – only the charred remnants of thousands of trees. And it got much worse as we drove through communities like Marathon, even to Rafina. Block after block of houses with only the concrete shells standing. The devastation reached to within 100 metres of our villa apartment.

Rafina is a port town, perhaps best known as embarkation point for Greek island cruises or ferry service to islands like Santorini and Andros. It is a few kilometres north of the Athens airport. We had our last meal at a recommended restaurant Seirenes (Sirens) on the harbourfront.

Uneventful flight back to Ottawa, via Montreal on October 4. Uneventful, just the way I like it.
Great trip report Doug!!
 

How to Find Information

Search using the search button in the upper right. Search all forums or current forum by keyword or member. Advanced search gives you more options.

Filter forum threads using the filter pulldown above the threads. Filter by prefix, member, date. Or click on a thread title prefix to see all threads with that prefix.

Sponsors

Booking.com Hotels in Europe
AutoEurope.com Car Rentals

Recommended Guides, Apps and Books

52 Things to See and Do in Basilicata by Valerie Fortney
Italian Food & Life Rules by Ann Reavis
Italian Food Decoder App by Dana Facaros, Michael Pauls
French Food Decoder App by Dana Facaros, Michael Pauls
She Left No Note, Lake Iseo Italy Mystery 1 by J L Crellina

Share this page

Back
Top