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Ravello - food shops, restaurants, taxis, etc.

ELF

New Member
Hello All
Six of us will be staying in a villa about 2kms outside Ravello at the end of July.
I don't know whether we should hire a car or not (5-seater!) as a taxi will also be needed from and to Naples airport anyway (all that luggage) and it adds a lot to the cost. Is it really necessary to hire a car? So my main questions are:
1) How easy is it to order a taxi (and, more to the point, are they plentiful)? Would we have to book in advance? (I'm thinking along the lines of if we want to order one to take us into Ravello and then hail one back).
2) Are there any food/alcohol shops there? I can't believe that there aren't any in a town, but I can't seem to find any. And is it/are they any good and are they astronomically expensive compared to elsewhere?
3) Also, do you know if there is a large supermarket somewhere between Naples airport and Ravello?
4) Is there a bakery?
5) I have read that buses from Amalfi to Ravello are often full so that you can't get on, but then again that another one comes along quickly. What is your view, do you know if it is viable and do you know approximately how often they run? Also the cost has been quoted as between ¢1 to ¢20. Haha, don't want to spend ¢120 on a bus trip!
6) Apparently the walk down to Amalfi takes about an hour(?). Presumably there is a safe route and you don't have to walk on the windy roads?
7) Also, approximately, how much are taxis charging to/from Almalfi/Ravello in July (high season) and would you have any idea how much they would charge for a short journey i.e. to our villa 2kms away.
8) Are there lots of restaurants in Ravello or only a handful?
Feel free to provide any extra advice and information!
Thanks very much in advance!
ELF
 
We did a day visit to Ravello by bus in October of 2017. I posted about it here:

https://www.sloweurope.com/community/threads/venice-rome-positano.2664/post-18123

But the short version is, the SITA bus was very crowded! And super stressful trying to get on. The SITA bus was very cheap but we wished we had paid more for the City Bus (which was 5 euros one way at the time) because it appeared less crowded. I bet it will be even more crowded this summer, especially as travel is booming this year.

Ravello was gorgeous and one of my highlights of that trip in spite of the crowds etc. I hope you have a fantastic time! I wished we could have stayed overnight there to be able to appreciate it with fewer tourists!
 
The benefit of a car depends a lot on how confident/skilful you are as drivers, as it's a difficult and at times frustrating area to drive in, plus whether you want to head inland or to somewhere like Paestum. Personally we'd not hire a car as the buses are good and...
1) Yes there are taxis, with a rank in Ravello itself, plus taxis in Amalfi. Best to phone or go to the rank, as I don't believe you can simply hail a cab.
2) Yes, I've not been for a few years, but recall a couple of shops selling good local wines, and whilst a little more expensive than you can find in Amalfi, they're far from astronomical.
3) I don't recall one, as the fast route is on autostrada, but easy to check google maps along the route. There is a couple of modest sized supermarkets in Amalfi. Better though to also use specialist food shops in Amalfi. In Ravello itself, I recall a small Alimentari, but worth checking. The best option of all, is to align to the market day in Ravello (based in the car park) and get food fresh from there. Other villages have their own market days.
4) No bakery in Ravello, but there is an excellent cake shop in Amalfi (Andrea Pansa). The alimentari should have bread, and ditto the market, but aside from that, it will be down to Amalfi
5) Yes to busy and yes to extra buses often lined up when this happens. The bus company is 'SITA' and you should be able to find the ticket prices / times there. They've typically been inexpensive but I don't know what current prices are. One suggestion if you've got decent fitness levels, and love walking. It's very feasible to walk down to Amalfi (or Minori) and the paths are an underused resource / pleasure on the Amalfi Coast. Lots of steps, but it can be as short as 30 mins to walk down (more like 45 mins coming back up, and obviously somewhat more strenuous, doubly so if you've got shopping). The Tippett guide is still invaluable for discovering the walking paths.
6) Yes, see above. The paths cut straight across the road, so virtually no walking on the roads. It's a most wonderful way to travel.
7) I don't know the taxi cost, but 2km is something I'd probably want to get in the habit of walking (head torches are a help at night). The costs weren't OTT, but they might charge a minimum fare for such a short journey.
8) There are ~ 4/5 restaurants from memory, more if you include the hotels. Anything from a good basic pizzeria, to a garden restaurant with views, to a classic trattoria. Perhaps others since we last visited

It's a super place, and one that very much rewards walking, with some stunning views and a lovely slower pace (which is a problem if you're planning to race around various sites, but a genuine joy if you're looking to relax and adapt to the local rhythm).
 
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p.s. echoing Devarae, we've stayed there on a few occasions, and both morning and evening in the central square are a joy, whilst Villa Cimbrone gardens are a lovely oasis on a hot day, as indeed is a lovely woodland walk inland we found (not in Tippett guide), that was lovely and cooling on a good path (IIRC) out of the north of the village.

As it's end of July, another suggestion for a cooling location... Atrani is a most remarkable village archtiecturally, with houses built into the large viaduct, and the village itself is rather sheltered from the sun, making this a cooling spot on a stinking hot day. The walk from Amalfi is short (20 mins) but quite energetic.
 
I'd heard that taxis are at least 30 Euros each way.

And this was before the pandemic.

Place to ask is the Amalfi or Ravello forum on TripAdvisor.

But the thing is, rental cars may be pretty expensive, especially this summer when there's high travel demand.

Especially if booking last minute.

As for supermarkets, in smaller towns there may be small chain stores like Carrefour and other chains in Italy. But they may be expensive, like instead of 50 centimes or so for a 1.5 liter bottle of water, they may charge a couple of Euros.

Plus if you drive down to Ravello, parking will be a big issue. That is one thing I haven't driven in the Amalfi Coast but in every popular area in Italy or Europe or that matter, parking is scarce.

So sometimes I hit the hypermarkets or Ipermercato I believe is the Italian term. These are large supermarkets, Wal-mart sized, which have their own parking. They have expansive grocery but also store for household goods like small appliances or such.

They may also have delis where they have some selection of prepared food that you can take and store in a fridge. They will also have some small takeaway restaurants too.

You just search for hypermarkets in Google Maps. I would imagine if they're near the Amalfi Coast, you'd have to go at least down to Salerno, not along the Amalfi Coast at all.
 
Ravello is our favorite spot on the Amalfi Coast. You will love it there. Just adding a few notes to supplement Ian's excellent post.

Generally, as for driving: my husband used to work in northern Italy and has driven in Italy for over 30 years. Even he found the driving on the Amalfi Coast a bit daunting, especially if you have a vehicle big enough for 6, and especially during the high season.

1) I would hire a driver from the Naples airport to your rental. Never done it myself, so I have no personal recommendations.

2) There is a small alimentari in Ravello, but the selection is fairly limited. If your plan is to cook at your rental, I would make arrangements with the driver for a supermarket stop somewhere between the Naples airport and your rental. Sorrento might be a good choice. There are also many services where you can pre-order food for delivery to your rental, but they tend to be very pricy. I would ask the owner/management company for your rental for suggestions.

3) See above.

4) Not that I know of. Probably in Amalfi.

5), 6) Walking down from Ravello to Amalfi is fine. Very easy and safe. The walk back is much harder and obviously depends on your fitness level, especially if you're carrying heavy items like water and wine. We often walked down to Amalfi and took the bus back up to Ravello.

7) IDK

8) In Ravello, Cumpa Cosimo is fine. It can be a bit hokey. Mimi Pizzeria and Trattoria is good. There are some high-end spots as well, but that's not our dining style, so I can't speak for them. If you plan to visit Positano, I would look at the restaurants in Montepertuso, which is a frazione of Positano. Steep climb up and easy walk down. Some of the restaurants in Montepertuso will happily pick you up in Positano and drive you up to the restaurant.


I'd heard that taxis are at least 30 Euros each way.

And this was before the pandemic.

Place to ask is the Amalfi or Ravello forum on TripAdvisor.

But the thing is, rental cars may be pretty expensive, especially this summer when there's high travel demand.

Especially if booking last minute.

As for supermarkets, in smaller towns there may be small chain stores like Carrefour and other chains in Italy. But they may be expensive, like instead of 50 centimes or so for a 1.5 liter bottle of water, they may charge a couple of Euros.

Plus if you drive down to Ravello, parking will be a big issue. That is one thing I haven't driven in the Amalfi Coast but in every popular area in Italy or Europe or that matter, parking is scarce.

So sometimes I hit the hypermarkets or Ipermercato I believe is the Italian term. These are large supermarkets, Wal-mart sized, which have their own parking. They have expansive grocery but also store for household goods like small appliances or such.

They may also have delis where they have some selection of prepared food that you can take and store in a fridge. They will also have some small takeaway restaurants too.

You just search for hypermarkets in Google Maps. I would imagine if they're near the Amalfi Coast, you'd have to go at least down to Salerno, not along the Amalfi Coast at all.
 
Hi Everyone
Thank you very much for your posts - really helpful. Still dithering about a car though - more for grocery (and wine!) shopping than anything else. Unfortunately we will still need to get a taxi from Naples airport as there are 6 of us... not a number I intend to travel with ever again!
 
Hi Everyone
Thank you very much for your posts - really helpful. Still dithering about a car though - more for grocery (and wine!) shopping than anything else. Unfortunately we will still need to get a taxi from Naples airport as there are 6 of us... not a number I intend to travel with ever again!
We found 'little and often' works well on the Amalfi Coast as even the supermarkets are of a modest size - no hypermarkets here. Oh and do use the weekly market (I just checked and it's on Tuesdays - and it might just be a morning market, as many are in Italy).

If wine is an interest, then keep an eye out for Marisa Cuomo / Gran Furor, a winery based in nearby Furore (which you can recognise on a map for being at the top of some very visible switchback roads). Both reds and whites recommended, the latter from lesser known local grapes.
The white wines of Ischia also worth trying, as well as wines from nearby Tramonte, Cilento and Taurasi

There used to be a couple of shops selling wines in Ravello, with a decent selection, albeit maybe 10% more pricey than this place in Amalfi (Enoteca 'A Puteca Di Conforti Luigi, which is on the main street heading inland from the sea).
It wouldn't surprise me if there isn't an even better selection now in Ravello, as there has been a steady drift towards shops that cater for tourists, sadly including a couple that have nothing to do with the region, but are just 'posh tourist' shops.

Looking at the map, if you did want to negotiate with the taxi to stop for a big grocery shop on the way from the airport, then it looks like there's a decent sized one in a commercial park near Angri. It's an Iper G and this is the address (Via Papa Giovanni XXIII, 46/48, 84012 Angri SA, Italy). It's about 45 minutes away, which should still be ok for refrigerated produce. That's the route we come into Ravello before (via Sambuco), and whilst it's a winding road (preparing you for Ravello itself) it's generally light on traffic, avoiding the heavy traffic on the coast road.

As for driving, I can't overstress that the roads are steep, narrow, winding, and you have to be skilled at reversing and fine margins when faced with a bus coming the other way (invariably it's the cars that are expected to get out of the way, unless there's a convenient place for the bus to back into). On top of that car-sickness / nausea can be an issue for passengers. Absolutely it's possible to drive here, and having the car opens up possibilities for anyone wishing to explore away from the more touristy locations. It might however be much more stress than it's worth, including persistent 'window washers' at traffic lights as you leave Napoli, through to very close / assertive driving on the autostrada, to the pressure of experienced locals getting visibly frustrated by a tourist car holding them up because they lack the knowledge of the roads, nor the skill/experience in how to drive them at a decent speed. Added to the issues, is a car large enough to take 6, becomes a handicap when trying to negotiate tight gaps.

For me it would be a no-brainer of a taxi to / from the airport, enjoying the ~2km walk 2-4 times a day into Ravello (and the other walks in the area), using the bus in the morning out of Ravello and the bus in the afternoon / evening back (these should be less busy, as there are more coming into Ravello each day, than setting out from it). Taxis an option if tiredness or timings dictate.

The first walk down to Amalfi or Minori will feel like an adventure, through old hamlets, paths through rocky scrub, with the odd shock from a dog barking, and lots and lots of steps (~1200 in total IIRC from Ravello to Amalfi, and the same back up, but it will feel like more), but also offering regularly stunning views that are one of the highlights of the coast - so much so that on my first evening there, I was entranced by it, staring out for 30-45 minutes, watching the last of the boats as the light started to fade. It felt magical.
 
p.s. Cumpa Cosimo still holds a firm place in my memory, for the way Netta Bottone used to run it with matriarchal charm. It's absolutely a trattoria and not a restaurant, but the food was always good for us, and a standout from the first visit (and on later returns) was the mixed pasta.

At the end of the meal, when we asked to pay, Netta would always list what we'd eaten, but would (intentionally I believe) leave one or more things off, so we were charged less. I recall we called out the omission on our first visit, but learnt in time that was her way. On our 3rd visit there, there had been a mild falling out between the two couples, such that the 3 women went for a pre-meal drink together and ditto the 3 men. The women got to Cumpa Cosimo first and had clearly been continuing the conversation, as at the end of the meal, Netta split the bill into male / female halves. For the women's bill, half of what they consumed was omitted. For our half *everything* was included with a firm but knowing smile. We laughed and paid with good humour, a good lesson learnt :cool:
 
A few more thoughts: definitely walk down to and around both Minori and Atrani. Amalfi is, I suppose, a must but so over-touristed. See the Duomo and maybe the paper museum, and time your visit to avoid the cruise ship days, when the ships disgorge huge numbers of people into a too-small space. If you eat out, I personally recommend lunch, and then cook dinner at your rental, or just have salads and salumi and cheeses, especially after hitting the markets in the morning (most close by 1 or 2). Highly recommend a small tripod for night photography.

The Sentieri degli Dei has gorgeous views, but I did find it a bit scary at spots, although I'm not good with heights or scrambling over rocks. Most hikers would probably call it a moderate walk.

Both Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo in Ravello are wonderful. One place I had wanted to visit but never made it there is Furore, which has this lovely little beach tucked away. Lots of steps, as with everywhere on the Amalfi Coast. Seriously, get your hamstrings in shape; walking down the steps is harder than you think.

For resources: Laura Thayer has an excellent guidebook called Amalfi Coast (Moon Publications), and Gillian Longworth McGuire has a great ebook. I can't pull up the info at the moment but will post if I find it.
 

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