Summary
I returned to Lucca for another three weeks in May 2017. This is an update to last year’s trip report (see https://www.sloweurope.com/community/threads/three-weeks-in-lucca-italy-may-2016.1793/ ). Again, I was traveling with a bum knee, but I had a great time in Lucca taking Italian lessons, enjoying the Lucca Classical Music Festival, and just hanging out. I flew on Lufthansa via Munich to Pisa (easier than going through Heathrow, which I did last year), and I again took cabs to/from Lucca (60-70E each way).
Lucca remains a relaxing place for a vacation. This year, I deliberately planned my visit during the Classical Music Festival (http://www.luccaclassica.it/ ), because I enjoyed the concerts so much last year. I was particularly taken with the music of Giovanni Sollima (www.giovannisollima.it/eng/bio.html ) and the “100 cellos”, and I attended an interesting concert of newly discovered Puccini music (http://www.rhinegold.co.uk/choir_organ/early-puccini-organ-pieces-discovered).
My visit to the tiny Paolo Crecsci Museum (http://www.fondazionepaolocresci.it/la-fondazione/la-nostra-storia) was unexpectedly moving. It displays artifacts related to the Luccese emigration experience in the late 19th and early 20th century. Included are some amazing photos (annotated in Italian) and a video (gratefully, in English). These show emigrants before they left, on the boats, and after they arrived at their destinations
I found it easier this year to connect with other travelers at the hotel and the school. I also got together with some “slow travelers” (“Stephanie”, “FrancesAnn”, and “Alpinista”), which was interesting and fun.
Hotel Ilaria
I stayed at Hotel Ilaria (http://www.hotelilaria.com/en/ ) in the same room as last year, and I was welcomed back warmly with hugs and kisses. This year’s rates were somewhat higher: 139E per night, which included a discount based on the three-week time period. The hotel staff were very helpful (tickets for the festival, restaurant reservations, etc.), and I took full advantage of the “cafeteria/bar” and the lounge area, which has very comfortable chairs with good reading lights.
Italian Language School (ILS)
I took another two weeks of Italian lessons at the ILS (http://www.luccaitalianschool.com/ ) The school is enjoying much-deserved success. It has expanded from one to two floors of their building. The quality of the programs remains high.
Restaurants
I returned to old favorites from last year and discovered some new ones. The following are updates to last year’s reviews. (Also refer to the general comments in my 2016 trip report)
Gli Orti di Via Elisa Via Elisa 17: 2016: good to excellent food. Somewhat up-scale atmosphere and prices (also has outdoor area on the street). Capretto can be wonderful (or not). Reservations recommended. Price highly dependent on what you order. Appetizer, secondo, wine, and water was about 30-35 E. Update 2017: I had an outstanding vegetable risotto (perfectly balanced, complex, and creamy), and I ordered the capretto again, which was good but not wonderful (I was hoping for wonderful).
VispaTeresa via S Croce 88: 2016: Tiny place with very good food, moderate prices, and exceptionally friendly staff. The Lasagna (Bolognese style) was particularly good. 25-30 E for two courses, wine and water. Update 2017: I was welcomed back warmly (I can’t believe they remembered me!). I had a good meal, but I was disappointed that the Lasagna wasn’t on the menu.
Da Nonna , Via S Croce 71; 2016: Good food and moderate prices. Very good eggplant parmesan appetizer (more like a primo), fun kitchy décor inside, big outdoor eating area on the piazza; strange “discounts” appeared on my bills, 25-30 E for two courses, wine and water. Update 2017: I was very disappointed with a meal I had here (cod fish balls, fried zucchini flowers, and pici with speck and artichokes). Everything was under seasoned except the speck (which was very salty), and the zucchini flowers were greasy. Slow traveler “Stephanie” confirmed that the place wasn’t what it had been last year. I returned for another meal only because it was convenient. I had the eggplant, which was ok once I added some salt and pepper, and gnocchi, which were strange and also under seasoned.
Antica Drogheria Via Elisa 5, 2016 a busy place known for its excellent pizza (8-9 E), but with other options as well. The “workers lunch” (Mon-Sat only) is a real bargain: 12 E for a choice of primo, secondo, cortorno, glass of wine, and ½ liter of water. The roast pork on the lunch special was especially good. If you go at 1:30 pm the crowd will have thinned out. Update 2017 I went quite early one evening without a reservation, and I almost didn’t get a table. I had a wonderful pizza (better than last year’s): prosciutto crude, mozzarella, and arugula (10 E and big enough for two people).
Osteria Lo Stellario Piazza S. Francesco 44-46: 2016 Nice small place with some tables outside. I only ate here once: pasta and a mixed salad were very good and inexpensive. Update 2017 I had a couple of lunches here that were good and very reasonably priced. This is also where LIS holds their wine tasting, and the snacks with the wine were very good to excellent.
Millenium Bar and Cafeteria via S. Croce (between 88 and 94): 2016 Downscale place for a coffee, wine or snack. Wonderful salad, ok sandwiches. Friendly staff. Open all day until 8 pm. Update 2017: The salad I had here was good, but not as wonderful as last year’s. (and the friendly bar man remembered me!)
And here are the new places I tried in 2017.
Ristorante Giglio, Piazza del Giglio 2: I treated myself to a splendid Mother’s Day meal here. Expensive, but worth it. The guanciale was exceptional. Giglio has an elegant indoor area and outside seating on the piazza (the Italians eat inside as did I). Reservations are probably needed; On that Sunday, all the tables had been arranged and set to accommodate the exact number of guests in each reservation.
Gigi Trattoria, Piazza del Carmine 7: This is a favorite of slow travelers “Alpinista” who suggested it for a get together. The food was very good; the prices were moderate; and overall it is a good value. It has a vine-covered outdoor area. Reservations are a good idea as it is a small place. We went at the end of my trip, or I would have returned.
Osteria San Francesco, Piazza San Francesco: Very good food with moderate prices. (Fixed price lunch including two courses, water, and cover 17E). I ate here several times and really liked most of the dishes I had. Exceptional “flan” (a secondo, not desert), linguini with squid, grilled steak, and a pasta dish with spinach, shrimp and apples (the hot small pasta grains served over raw spinach, wilting it just a bit, accompanied by a good amount of shrimp and apples or sometimes peaches…fantastic dish). On the negative side, the roast potatoes were awful and the service was sub-par – borderline rude at times. A small place with indoor and outdoor areas.
Ristorante Il Mecenate, via del Fosso 94: Good food with moderate to high prices. I had Sunday dinner as well as a few weekday lunches here. Reservations would probably be wise on Sunday. In 2016, I tried to come here for a week-day lunch a few times, but it was full. In 2017, it was empty at weekdays noontime. It has an upscale but relaxed atmosphere inside with an outdoor space on the Piazza San Francesco
Il Baccanale, Via Sant’Andrea 14: Small wine bar tucked away in an alley off Via Sant’Andrea with a limited menu, very reasonable prices, good food and very friendly staff. Slow traveler “Stephanie” suggested it for a get together, and I returned several days later on my own. The fixed-price lunch is a very good value. Additionally, the friendly chef/owner is very accommodating. On the first visit, I was not feeling well so she made up a special plate for me. On my return visit, she willingly modified the fixed price menu to accommodate my allergies (e.g. substituting mozzarella for pesto).
Civico 94, via S. Croce 94: Wine Bar with tables (and wait staff) outside and a tiny uninviting space inside. I had an uninspiring lunch here, but I enjoyed watching the scene (local kids at nearby tables). Inexpensive, but the food I had (Lasagna and a salad) was only fair.
I returned to Lucca for another three weeks in May 2017. This is an update to last year’s trip report (see https://www.sloweurope.com/community/threads/three-weeks-in-lucca-italy-may-2016.1793/ ). Again, I was traveling with a bum knee, but I had a great time in Lucca taking Italian lessons, enjoying the Lucca Classical Music Festival, and just hanging out. I flew on Lufthansa via Munich to Pisa (easier than going through Heathrow, which I did last year), and I again took cabs to/from Lucca (60-70E each way).
Lucca remains a relaxing place for a vacation. This year, I deliberately planned my visit during the Classical Music Festival (http://www.luccaclassica.it/ ), because I enjoyed the concerts so much last year. I was particularly taken with the music of Giovanni Sollima (www.giovannisollima.it/eng/bio.html ) and the “100 cellos”, and I attended an interesting concert of newly discovered Puccini music (http://www.rhinegold.co.uk/choir_organ/early-puccini-organ-pieces-discovered).
My visit to the tiny Paolo Crecsci Museum (http://www.fondazionepaolocresci.it/la-fondazione/la-nostra-storia) was unexpectedly moving. It displays artifacts related to the Luccese emigration experience in the late 19th and early 20th century. Included are some amazing photos (annotated in Italian) and a video (gratefully, in English). These show emigrants before they left, on the boats, and after they arrived at their destinations
I found it easier this year to connect with other travelers at the hotel and the school. I also got together with some “slow travelers” (“Stephanie”, “FrancesAnn”, and “Alpinista”), which was interesting and fun.
Hotel Ilaria
I stayed at Hotel Ilaria (http://www.hotelilaria.com/en/ ) in the same room as last year, and I was welcomed back warmly with hugs and kisses. This year’s rates were somewhat higher: 139E per night, which included a discount based on the three-week time period. The hotel staff were very helpful (tickets for the festival, restaurant reservations, etc.), and I took full advantage of the “cafeteria/bar” and the lounge area, which has very comfortable chairs with good reading lights.
Italian Language School (ILS)
I took another two weeks of Italian lessons at the ILS (http://www.luccaitalianschool.com/ ) The school is enjoying much-deserved success. It has expanded from one to two floors of their building. The quality of the programs remains high.
Restaurants
I returned to old favorites from last year and discovered some new ones. The following are updates to last year’s reviews. (Also refer to the general comments in my 2016 trip report)
Gli Orti di Via Elisa Via Elisa 17: 2016: good to excellent food. Somewhat up-scale atmosphere and prices (also has outdoor area on the street). Capretto can be wonderful (or not). Reservations recommended. Price highly dependent on what you order. Appetizer, secondo, wine, and water was about 30-35 E. Update 2017: I had an outstanding vegetable risotto (perfectly balanced, complex, and creamy), and I ordered the capretto again, which was good but not wonderful (I was hoping for wonderful).
VispaTeresa via S Croce 88: 2016: Tiny place with very good food, moderate prices, and exceptionally friendly staff. The Lasagna (Bolognese style) was particularly good. 25-30 E for two courses, wine and water. Update 2017: I was welcomed back warmly (I can’t believe they remembered me!). I had a good meal, but I was disappointed that the Lasagna wasn’t on the menu.
Da Nonna , Via S Croce 71; 2016: Good food and moderate prices. Very good eggplant parmesan appetizer (more like a primo), fun kitchy décor inside, big outdoor eating area on the piazza; strange “discounts” appeared on my bills, 25-30 E for two courses, wine and water. Update 2017: I was very disappointed with a meal I had here (cod fish balls, fried zucchini flowers, and pici with speck and artichokes). Everything was under seasoned except the speck (which was very salty), and the zucchini flowers were greasy. Slow traveler “Stephanie” confirmed that the place wasn’t what it had been last year. I returned for another meal only because it was convenient. I had the eggplant, which was ok once I added some salt and pepper, and gnocchi, which were strange and also under seasoned.
Antica Drogheria Via Elisa 5, 2016 a busy place known for its excellent pizza (8-9 E), but with other options as well. The “workers lunch” (Mon-Sat only) is a real bargain: 12 E for a choice of primo, secondo, cortorno, glass of wine, and ½ liter of water. The roast pork on the lunch special was especially good. If you go at 1:30 pm the crowd will have thinned out. Update 2017 I went quite early one evening without a reservation, and I almost didn’t get a table. I had a wonderful pizza (better than last year’s): prosciutto crude, mozzarella, and arugula (10 E and big enough for two people).
Osteria Lo Stellario Piazza S. Francesco 44-46: 2016 Nice small place with some tables outside. I only ate here once: pasta and a mixed salad were very good and inexpensive. Update 2017 I had a couple of lunches here that were good and very reasonably priced. This is also where LIS holds their wine tasting, and the snacks with the wine were very good to excellent.
Millenium Bar and Cafeteria via S. Croce (between 88 and 94): 2016 Downscale place for a coffee, wine or snack. Wonderful salad, ok sandwiches. Friendly staff. Open all day until 8 pm. Update 2017: The salad I had here was good, but not as wonderful as last year’s. (and the friendly bar man remembered me!)
And here are the new places I tried in 2017.
Ristorante Giglio, Piazza del Giglio 2: I treated myself to a splendid Mother’s Day meal here. Expensive, but worth it. The guanciale was exceptional. Giglio has an elegant indoor area and outside seating on the piazza (the Italians eat inside as did I). Reservations are probably needed; On that Sunday, all the tables had been arranged and set to accommodate the exact number of guests in each reservation.
Gigi Trattoria, Piazza del Carmine 7: This is a favorite of slow travelers “Alpinista” who suggested it for a get together. The food was very good; the prices were moderate; and overall it is a good value. It has a vine-covered outdoor area. Reservations are a good idea as it is a small place. We went at the end of my trip, or I would have returned.
Osteria San Francesco, Piazza San Francesco: Very good food with moderate prices. (Fixed price lunch including two courses, water, and cover 17E). I ate here several times and really liked most of the dishes I had. Exceptional “flan” (a secondo, not desert), linguini with squid, grilled steak, and a pasta dish with spinach, shrimp and apples (the hot small pasta grains served over raw spinach, wilting it just a bit, accompanied by a good amount of shrimp and apples or sometimes peaches…fantastic dish). On the negative side, the roast potatoes were awful and the service was sub-par – borderline rude at times. A small place with indoor and outdoor areas.
Ristorante Il Mecenate, via del Fosso 94: Good food with moderate to high prices. I had Sunday dinner as well as a few weekday lunches here. Reservations would probably be wise on Sunday. In 2016, I tried to come here for a week-day lunch a few times, but it was full. In 2017, it was empty at weekdays noontime. It has an upscale but relaxed atmosphere inside with an outdoor space on the Piazza San Francesco
Il Baccanale, Via Sant’Andrea 14: Small wine bar tucked away in an alley off Via Sant’Andrea with a limited menu, very reasonable prices, good food and very friendly staff. Slow traveler “Stephanie” suggested it for a get together, and I returned several days later on my own. The fixed-price lunch is a very good value. Additionally, the friendly chef/owner is very accommodating. On the first visit, I was not feeling well so she made up a special plate for me. On my return visit, she willingly modified the fixed price menu to accommodate my allergies (e.g. substituting mozzarella for pesto).
Civico 94, via S. Croce 94: Wine Bar with tables (and wait staff) outside and a tiny uninviting space inside. I had an uninspiring lunch here, but I enjoyed watching the scene (local kids at nearby tables). Inexpensive, but the food I had (Lasagna and a salad) was only fair.
