Saint-Roman Abbey near Beaucaire

[Pauline]

Last year we stopped at the Saint-Roman Abbey near Beaucaire on our drive from Uzes to Marseille airport.

Saint-Roman Abbey (Abbaye de Saint-Roman) is an ancient troglodyte monastery dug out of rock by hermits and monks. The structure is similar to Cappadocia (Cappadoce) in what is now the Central Anatolia region of Turkey. Excavations to create the abbey started in the 5th century but many parts were built in the 12th century.

We really enjoyed this site. It was a nice 15 minute walk gently uphill to the top of the hill. There were only a couple of other people wandering around. This large abbey was carved out of the rock. We walked through the chapel area and the rooms. The most amazing thing for me was the "terrace" on top of the hill, where the monks buried their dead in the rock (see photo below). They carved coffin spaces in the rock. There are many of them up there - almost covering the top of the abbey.

See my photo gallery on the main site: Slow Europe Photos - Saint-Roman Abbey

Of course Steve and I took photos of each other in the "coffins" (there was no one around). Most disrespectful I know, but the bones had been removed long ago, and a bit creepy.

 

[Dana]

Beaucaire a fascinating area indeed! Did you visit the Mas des Tourelles as well, where they make Roman-style wines (complete with grape stomping 'slaves' in the autumn) Looks like they are looking for someone in the US to import their wines, in case anyone on the forum is interested.

 

[Pauline]

I read about Mas des Tourelles, but we did not visit. What we did see, and loved, are those Roman Mile Markers on the Via Domitia outside of Beaucaire, near Saint-Roman Abbey. I am working on my photos of those now.

We also visited Beaucaire and did not like the town. It was lively and fun along the river, but not as interesting in the center. We were there in March last year, very off season. As I write this I can smell the dog remains on that nice walkway on top of the town walls. I know, I know - get used to it - but ugh! There is a vacation rental in Beaucaire that I always wanted to stay in, but it looks right out on that walkway.

Okay, now I am sounding like a fusspot. I am willing to be convinced that I did not see Beaucaire on a good day.

Walkway on town walls around Beaucaire.

 

[Chris]

There's another old monastery with those graves carved into the rocks not too far from Apt in the Luberon. I remember being fascinated with how small they were. Thirteenth century monks were tiny little fellows.

 

[Dana]

A lot of the niches in the catacombs are pretty small too..no four glasses of milk a day back then to build big bones! As for Beaucaire, I can imagine it was a bit whiffy—it's definitely funky and a bit shabby these days, although you can tell it once had plenty of cash, back in the days of its famous market. So many towns have been so immaculately restored in the Midi (Uzès, of course, is a prime example) it's kind of interesting to see what they look like when they decline.