Salerno as a home base?

[Anne]

My mom and I are starting to think about travelling to Italy again next June. We're still very much in the dreaming stages, but one of the areas we considering is the Amalfi Coast, Naples, Paestum, Pompeii, etc. We're also thinking we'll want to travel by public transportation for the most part, although might rent a car for a day or two to explore a few remote corners. I'm trying to figure out where to base ourselves for a week, possibly two, if we decide to stay in the area. We spent a couple nights in Sorrento a few years ago, and thought it was lovely but don't feel a need to stay there again. I've been reading some good things about Salerno recently - including this Walks of Italy article - and am feeling drawn to it as a home case. I realize most people would prefer to stay in towns like Positano or Amalfi but I'm not sure we want to stay in any of the major tourist spots during high season. I remember how crowded the SITA buses were in March, can't imagine what they're like in June. (I envision us being stuck on the side of the road as full buses whiz past!)

Has anyone here spent any time in Salerno, or have any thoughts on whether or not it would be a good home base location for the area?

 

[Pauline]

Isn't Amy from ST in Salerno right now? She is posting on her blog Destination Anywhere. >> She is in Santa Maria di Castellabate, down the coast from Salerno.

We based in Sorrento for two weeks in this area in September (years ago). It worked well as a base and I liked it as a town, but not everyone likes it. We used public transportation for one week, and had a car for the second week. It was a long train ride to Pompeii.

We did not get to Salerno and I have wondered too if it would be a good place to stay. The vacation rental agency Summer in Italy is based there and they have many rentals in that area.

If I returned to this area, I would stay in Naples and see Pompeii and Herculenum from there (by train), then stay on that Cilento Coast (is that the right name? south of Salerno) to see more of that area.

I will send a message to Amy to see if she has any comments and to Valerie who has stayed in that area.

Let me know what you find out.

 

[Valerie]

I've not stayed in Salerno but have spent a lot of time in the city. It could be a good base for a week because you can get the ferries to Capri and the Amalfi Coast, buses and trains to Naples and Pompei, etc. I don't think I'd want to stay more than a week there. It is a lively place and has some great restaurants and a nice long walkway along the shore but it's also a modern city. The small historic center is pretty.

Maybe a week there and then a week in the Cilento to be able to see Paestum and that part of the coast? I love Santa Maria di Castellabate and San Marco, as well. There are some really nice walks, great beaches, and historic sites in the Cilento.

 

[Amy]

Yes, I'm currently in Santa Maria di Castellabate. As a matter of fact, we drove through Salerno today to get to Vietri sul Mare. It is certainly a large city, though with its charms--the Centro seems well kept and people were busily going about their lives--lots of shops, cafes, some leafy streets. It's certainly more city than town.

I will say we're really enjoying the Castellabate area, as its a nice mix of lovely beach time and trips to Pompeii (just over an hour by car), Pasteum (1/2 hour), and down the windy coast road and up into the mountains in the interior. Staying in a great place rented through Summer in Italy they call Villa Barbara.

Here's the view from our terrace.

 

[Amy]

*Waves to Valerie* Valerie, if Anne doesn't mind my hijacking her thread (and I hope she'll benefit as well!), can you suggest some other places of interest in the Cilento? The tourist offices around here all seem to be closed.

 

[Pauline]

That view is fabulous Amy!

It was an hour by very uncomfortable commuter train from Sorrento to Pompeii.

 

[Anne]

Thanks Pauline, Valerie and Amy!

I'd like to stay in Naples, but I don't know if I'd feel comfortable going out and leaving my mom alone there. She finds the idea of Naples quite intimidating. Ideally, we need a location where I can go out for a walk in the mornings and she can feel comfortable having a nice, slow morning 'home' alone.

I'll definitely check out Summer in Italy's listings in this area, especially if that view is an indication of what they have to offer! Spending a few days in Salerno (no car), and the rest of our time in a smaller town (with a car) sounds like a lovely balance.

Amy - yes please, hijack away I'd love to learn more about the Cilento. My sister and her family spent a week based in Agropoli a few years ago...but she didn't take note of details like place names or anything, so I haven't much to go on other than knowing they had a great time and loved the area.

 

[Valerie]

I could give you more than you'd want to know about the Cilento! We've spent loads of time there, so depends on what you're looking for. But to get you started...

Favorite restaurants:
U'Mazzeno outside Ogliastro Marina. Fantastic seafood in a funky-cool setting.
Da Carmine, also Ogliastro Marine, seafood with terrace on the water, excellent super-fresh fish
Il Belvedere - Old Castellabate - at least once for sunset drinks or dinner, enjoy the AH-mazing views from here!

Wineries:
Maffini - on a dirt path off the main road between San Marco and Ogliastro, this small cantina makes excellent wine
DeConciliis - Prignano Cilento. In the hills above Santa Maria/Agropoli, the owner is a character who loves to experiment and comes up with amazing results, completely organic operation.

Hike up to the top of Punta Tresino; walk from the port of San Marco along the trail that leads to Punta Licosa and the little island lighthouse (and take a swim in those crystal-clear waters!)

Watch Benvenuti al Sud and than have fun seeing the places where it was filmed!

 

[Valerie]

Summer in Italy is definitely the agency to use in this area; they were really the first to broker vacation homes in the Cilento and their customer service is excellent (never have to worry about anything; they'll resolve any problems that come up immediately.)

 

[Amy]

Thanks, Valerie! Too bad we have to leave tomorrow, it would be great to have more time to explore. Licosa is lovely, agreed.
Anne, let me know if you want more info about the place we're staying. It's a small complex of about 12-14 apartments spread in three buildings, with varying outdoor spaces and views. I'll also say that the entry and parking are interesting--full down a very steep drive that you need to time perfectly so as to cooperate with the electric entry gate. Our unit seems to have the best parking space--others are all crammed together. But it's nicely kept, simple and comfortable, and I'd certainly stay here again if in the area.