The Charente

[Amy]

On our past few trips (Piemonte, Puglia, the Vaucluse, and Croatia) we've become enamored of Romanesque churches, especially the ones with the earlier fanciful carvings. As I've been thinking of another France trip for next Spring, I began looking around to see where the largest concentration of these buildings are, and stumbled upon the Charente. Many fabulous buildings! I've booked a gite outside Cognac for a bit more than a week to explore some of the region. I'd love to hear of your experiences in the area, especially regarding pleasant villages and towns, restaurants and markets, areas not to bother with, anything that might be helpful.

Thank you!

 

[phirhon]

We spent a week near Aulnay [ about 50 kms from Cognac ] in 2012 and it is a pretty area - very rural. The church at Aulnay is lovely and is on a pilgrim route. I found the tombs interesting. We enjoyed Saintes despite it being awful weather. It is on the river and the cathedral is impressive and there is also an Arc de Triomphe.
This is probably a less well known area for a lot of tourists although I think people from the UK are more familiar with it.
I cannot claim to be very knowledgeable about churches but do enjoy visiting them. One of the things I like is noting the differences in the stations of the cross. A couple of others we saw in smaller places were in Nere - I have written in my diary that it was lovely with a large solid tower and an altar with modern stained glass on the sides - and in Fenioux. Fenioux also has a Lanternes des Morts in a lovely setting which we found interesting. Taillebourg has a chateau, which appeared to be the Mairie, overlooking the river and has an attractive balustrade around the grounds. St Savinien is in a lovely position on the river and has long quais along the river.

We enjoyed our week there despite having the wettest week ever on a trip to France. We also went across to La Rochelle one day and down to Cognac which we enjoyed wandering around.

As well as Cognac, this area is known for an aperitif - Pineau de Charentes - which we like and always buy some to enjoy while we are travelling in France.
Bon voyage.

 

[Pauline]

... This is probably a less well known area for a lot of tourists although I think people from the UK are more familiar with it. ...

I think it is a popular area for Brits to have second homes because it is far enough south for better weather (I hear Brits complain about Normandy and Brittany weather), but is not as expensive as the Perigord area further south. There are flights from the UK into La Rochelle.

I am interested in the Île de Ré, an almost island west of La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast. I talked to someone who spent a week there and they loved it as a summer holiday destination. Good bicycling. And it looks like good beaches. I look at this website each year when everything is already booked - Ile de Re Holiday Cottages.

Île d'Oléron is closer to Cognac and looks interesting. There is more about it in the article below.

The Telegraph - France: Île de Ré and beyond, by Fred Mawer, 07 Apr 2014
The Île de Ré is not the only great family holiday spot off western France. Fred Mawer introduces its neighbours, which offer the same blend of beaches, cycling and quirky history

 

[Amy]

We're ending our 10 day stay in the Charente, and have had a wonderful time. I had initially thought there would not be enough to occupy us for this length of time, and boy was I wrong! It's a particularity great location if you have interest in Romanesque architecture, which is what led me to this region. It also has lovely scenery of rolling hills and vineyards, some interesting small cities and pretty riverside villages, prehistoric ruins, and quiet countryside. As most of the villages are on the deserted side of peaceful, I think its best as a location for those not interested in night life or daily dinner reservations unless you're in one of the cities. I have our first week blogged, and will finish up when I return back home tomorrow.
Blog here: https://argilman.wordpress.com/