Winter in London and the Cotswolds?

[crayzathomemama]

Hi all!
My daughter and I are planning to visit England in early January 2018 and right now our agenda looks like 4 to 5 days in London and then moving on to a base or two in the Cotswolds. I am considering adding Bath in there too. I visited all of these places in 2012 and 2015 but in May, June, or July and am wondering what to expect in early January.
In London we mainly plan to visit museums and such so we should be ok there but I wondered about any antique/flea market/vintage type areas---would that be Canal and Portobello Road? Will that mostly be closed down do you think?
The same question applies to the Cotswolds. I understand that the weather could be iffy but could also be quite nice (I noted Pauline's pictures of Dorset last year---diff area but still). I'm from Pennsylvania in the US so a little cold weather is OK. I was thinking of making a base in Stow on the Wold or another larger town and doing shorter walks. I say Stow because we could go to the Slaughters and maybe Bourton on the Water. We also loved Winchcombe. I'd like someplace though where if it is really coming down we could stay close to home but still maybe find some shop browsing. Book stores, locally made items, antiques that sort of thing. I fear anything like that might be closed after the Christmas rush.
We would plan to be in the area maybe a week--I guess in part depending on the weather. My main attraction besides the beauty of the area is being able to get outside and walk shorter distances (like 1-3 miles) to towns for tea, lunch, or the pub with perhaps a little Roman ruins or other history on the way. I'm not in a rush. I wasn't really planning on having a car. I have driven in UK before but I'd like to avoid if possible especially if I might have to deal with snow. Are buses and taxis still available at this time of year? I'm figuring that we could possibly get caught by the shorter day and need a ride back on occasion.
We did a walk with Cotswold Walks in 2015 (I think my picture might be on their wall as the person who walked the slowest and needed rides the most! so we have some knowledge of the area. We like tea, pubs, antiques, steam trains, books, walking, cheese!, history, and ruins. Oh and William Morris (Kelmscott?), Jane Austen, Harry Potter, Tolkien, CS Lewis...ok I'll stop now. Thanks for any suggestions including other areas that you think we should consider. Jane

 

[Ian Sutton]

A walk on a crisp winter's day can be a real joy, especially ending up at a pub with a real fire. However if you hit the walks after a period of rain, then you can end up with 'platform' walking shoes from the claggy mud, as I recall we did one day on a walk out of Chipping Camden. Perhaps the jackpot is getting snow, as fresh snow is easy to walk in, the ground typically hard, and the impact on the views is striking. Being flexible will be important.

Bath makes sense, and indeed at that time of year the thermal spa might have great appeal. It also has a couple of very fine cheese shops! The cobbled streets can be quite hard on joints (e.g. hips / knees) so bear that in mind by taking regular breaks and ensuring you have good shoes to walk around the city. I wasn't looking, but I'd expect antiques shops to be all over the city.

I can't think of anything that would shut down over winter, though I suspect there are less events on. Buses do have a seasonal timetable, but rarely is the seasonal change very significant.

Regards
Ian

p.s. Looking at your interests, I reckon there are many other places that might work, including the county I live in (Norfolk). Norwich is a historic city, easy to walk around. Some great local cheeses (Mrs Temples especially, but also others just over the border into Suffolk). Dragon Hall, Cow tower, Guild Hall, two cathedrals, a multitude of churches, a castle that looks nothing like a castle, Maddermarket theatre (historic & cosy), Elm Hill, etc. plus lots of interest out and about. A really fine pub scene, mostly avoiding the plague of theme pubs, including a charming central historic pub - The Adam and Eve. Plenty of fine walking and I could suggest some that we've done ourselves, including some that are pretty much weather-proof e.g.

• riverside + cathedral grounds + cathedral
• Organised city centre walks (historic & a slightly hammy, but still interesting ghost walk)

These would require a very short bus ride on a frequently run service

• Whitlingham park - heading up the hill paths leading away from the lake
• Trowse woods - our 'home' walk, an annual regular with a walking group we sometimes head out with
• Earlham Park - large historic public, popular with walkers and with a rather pleasant cafe in a ~ art deco style building, plus the paths make it all-weather

Also a short distance by regular bus, there is the old roman settlemnent from the days of the Boudicca rebellion at Caister St Edmund. In truth it's just the outline / earthworks, and it's notable as one of the poorest selection of finds on the great TV archaeological program 'Time Team'. Still, it's a pleasant walk and the nearby Wildebeest Arms is a very good restaurant and has a nice feel in winter.

I could go on. If this appeals at all, then let me know and I can expand in detail. In terms of travel logistics. Norwich is a 2 hour train ride from London (Liverpool St Station), or if you got lucky on flights, Norwich has an airport that is a joy compared to the big beasts. This only works if you can get a good price on flights to Amsterdam (and then it's just a short hop over the water to Norwich)

 

[Eleanor]

Buses, trains and taxis will be running. Have a look here for public transport. Preserved steam railways won't be running services in January (although some may have a service on Jan 1st and 2nd).

Shops should all be open, although you may find the occasional family run shop that is closed for the first week of January. Pubs will be open, but you will need to check opening times, especially at lunch times. Tea shops should all be open.

There is a list of Roman remains here. Unfortunately Chedworth (which is probably the jewel in the crown) is closed in January. The others are open. Places like Cirencester Amphitheatre and Great Witcombe Roman Villa are free and open daylight hours. This also applies to places like Lovell Minster, although the ruined Hayles Abbey is shut... There are some wonderful churches and most of these are open.

Kelscott Manor is also shut in January, as are many other stately homes.

The countryside is always open, although as Ian points out footpaths may be muddy.

 

[Pauline]

We did a winter visit to Bath and the Cotswolds in January - March 2008. We based ourselves in a cottage in the southern Cotswolds, Nailsworth, and had a rental car. The weather was good and we did some walking and exploring. We had snow for a few days. Businesses are not closed because many people live in the Cotswolds.

We moved to the Cotwolds in 2010 and lived in the southern Cotswolds (Nailsworth and Painswick) for 5 years, so went through a few winters.

I spent a winter in Pennsylvania, and am originally from Toronto, and a Cotswold winter is much milder. One of the reasons we moved here is that the winter weather is very manageable and we can keep walking. You can get a bit of snow - not much (a 1" snowfall seems to shut down the country). You can get rain - but it does not rain as much here as everyone imagines. And you can get nice sunny days. We have winter coats here, but not at the level that we had living in Pennsylvania.

The main problem with walking is mud. This varies by trail, but some can be so muddy it is not worth walking them. We frequently stick to lanes in the winter, or trails that we know have good drainage. Last winter was sunny and dry and we walked on trails most days.

Stow would be a good choice as a base. So would Moreton-in-Marsh (it has a train station for going to Oxford or London), Chipping Campden, Winchcombe - but you know all these towns from your previous visit.

I think you will really enjoy the Cotswolds in the winter. The countryside looks very different with bare trees. You can see houses and views that you don't see in summer. The days are extremely short, so get a cosy place where you can enjoy the dark evenings.

 

[Cameron]

The only thing I'll add is that when in London, you may be dressed perfectly for outdoors, but when you go indoors, be prepared for how HOT they keep the indoor heat! When my son was in grad school at UCL, we went over in late November and had to shed all our layers down to short sleeves when dining in restaurants or visiting museums. Perhaps it's changed since then (10+ years ago).

 

[crayzathomemama]

A walk on a crisp winter's day can be a real joy, especially ending up at a pub with a real fire. However if you hit the walks after a period of rain, then you can end up with 'platform' walking shoes from the claggy mud, as I recall we did one day on a walk out of Chipping Camden. Perhaps the jackpot is getting snow, as fresh snow is easy to walk in, the ground typically hard, and the impact on the views is striking. Being flexible will be important.

Bath makes sense, and indeed at that time of year the thermal spa might have great appeal. It also has a couple of very fine cheese shops! The cobbled streets can be quite hard on joints (e.g. hips / knees) so bear that in mind by taking regular breaks and ensuring you have good shoes to walk around the city. I wasn't looking, but I'd expect antiques shops to be all over the city.

I can't think of anything that would shut down over winter, though I suspect there are less events on. Buses do have a seasonal timetable, but rarely is the seasonal change very significant.

Regards
Ian

p.s. Looking at your interests, I reckon there are many other places that might work, including the county I live in (Norfolk). Norwich is a historic city, easy to walk around. Some great local cheeses (Mrs Temples especially, but also others just over the border into Suffolk). Dragon Hall, Cow tower, Guild Hall, two cathedrals, a multitude of churches, a castle that looks nothing like a castle, Maddermarket theatre (historic & cosy), Elm Hill, etc. plus lots of interest out and about. A really fine pub scene, mostly avoiding the plague of theme pubs, including a charming central historic pub - The Adam and Eve. Plenty of fine walking and I could suggest some that we've done ourselves, including some that are pretty much weather-proof e.g.

• riverside + cathedral grounds + cathedral
• Organised city centre walks (historic & a slightly hammy, but still interesting ghost walk)

These would require a very short bus ride on a frequently run service

• Whitlingham park - heading up the hill paths leading away from the lake
• Trowse woods - our 'home' walk, an annual regular with a walking group we sometimes head out with
• Earlham Park - large historic public, popular with walkers and with a rather pleasant cafe in a ~ art deco style building, plus the paths make it all-weather

Also a short distance by regular bus, there is the old roman settlemnent from the days of the Boudicca rebellion at Caister St Edmund. In truth it's just the outline / earthworks, and it's notable as one of the poorest selection of finds on the great TV archaeological program 'Time Team'. Still, it's a pleasant walk and the nearby Wildebeest Arms is a very good restaurant and has a nice feel in winter.

I could go on. If this appeals at all, then let me know and I can expand in detail. In terms of travel logistics. Norwich is a 2 hour train ride from London (Liverpool St Station), or if you got lucky on flights, Norwich has an airport that is a joy compared to the big beasts. This only works if you can get a good price on flights to Amsterdam (and then it's just a short hop over the water to Norwich)

Hi Ian!
Thank you so much for your comments and recommendations! I appreciate the time you took to do that. Boy you should be working for the Norfolk/Norwich travel board! It does sound very tempting. Right now I am sticking with the Cotswolds but you have certainly given me something to put on my list. After reading your post I looked into the Norwich area a bit and see there is also lock free narrow boating! Narrow boating is definitely something I'd like to do on one of our trips. Thank you again! Jane

 

[crayzathomemama]

Buses, trains and taxis will be running. Have a look here for public transport. Preserved steam railways won't be running services in January (although some may have a service on Jan 1st and 2nd).

Shops should all be open, although you may find the occasional family run shop that is closed for the first week of January. Pubs will be open, but you will need to check opening times, especially at lunch times. Tea shops should all be open.

There is a list of Roman remains here. Unfortunately Chedworth (which is probably the jewel in the crown) is closed in January. The others are open. Places like Cirencester Amphitheatre and Great Witcombe Roman Villa are free and open daylight hours. This also applies to places like Lovell Minster, although the ruined Hayles Abbey is shut... There are some wonderful churches and most of these are open.

Kelscott Manor is also shut in January, as are many other stately homes.

The countryside is always open, although as Ian points out footpaths may be muddy.

Hi Eleanor! Thank you for the heads up on Chedworth, Hailes Abbey, and Kelmscott! wow I am bummed but it's good to be prepared---I will have to leave them for next time. We did go to Hailes Abbey on our Cotswold Walk but in typical fashion it was only a hour before closing so it was a bit rushed. We visited Tintern Abbey on that trip also--I was so curious to know how exactly this buildings were destroyed. I mean there weren't bulldozers or wrecking balls back then and they were pretty sturdy buildings! Thanks also for allaying my concerns on the bus services (too bad about the steam trains). It seems that prices are up for the week I'm looking at Dec 29 to Jan 5 so there must be enough going on (or not going on) to make it attractive. Still looking at Stow on the Wold as a base and thinking I might add some day trips via bus or train. As long as there is tea and beer I'm good!
Thanks again!
Jane

 

[Eleanor]

"Narrow boating is definitely something I'd like to do on one of our trips".
Oxfordshire Narrowboats do day hire, but I'm not sure whether they hire out in January.

Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries and many of them were just left to fall down. The stone was 'robbed out' to be used as building stone - why go to the effort of quarrying stone when there is a ready source available...

 

[crayzathomemama]

We did a winter visit to Bath and the Cotswolds in January - March 2008. We based ourselves in a cottage in the southern Cotswolds, Nailsworth, and had a rental car. The weather was good and we did some walking and exploring. We had snow for a few days. Businesses are not closed because many people live in the Cotswolds.

We moved to the Cotwolds in 2010 and lived in the southern Cotswolds (Nailsworth and Painswick) for 5 years, so went through a few winters.

I spent a winter in Pennsylvania, and am originally from Toronto, and a Cotswold winter is much milder. One of the reasons we moved here is that the winter weather is very manageable and we can keep walking. You can get a bit of snow - not much (a 1" snowfall seems to shut down the country). You can get rain - but it does not rain as much here as everyone imagines. And you can get nice sunny days. We have winter coats here, but not at the level that we had living in Pennsylvania.

The main problem with walking is mud. This varies by trail, but some can be so muddy it is not worth walking them. We frequently stick to lanes in the winter, or trails that we know have good drainage. Last winter was sunny and dry and we walked on trails most days.

Stow would be a good choice as a base. So would Moreton-in-Marsh (it has a train station for going to Oxford or London), Chipping Campden, Winchcombe - but you know all these towns from your previous visit.

I think you will really enjoy the Cotswolds in the winter. The countryside looks very different with bare trees. You can see houses and views that you don't see in summer. The days are extremely short, so get a cosy place where you can enjoy the dark evenings.

Hi Pauline!
I've been following your posts and pics so thank you for those! It's so nice to have this forum (and Cotswolder) to find information and friends. I should have posted a trip report (where have I been I never saw that feature!). I noted your comment in Cotswolder about some of your walks around Stow on the Wold---particularly about the one being muddy and preferring to use the Jarrold's Short walk version. I don't see that book on your resources there. Is it still readily available or should I do a bit of searching before my visit.
I was picking Stow on the Wold because I hoped the terrain would be a little flatter and that there would be several shorter walks with the possibility of transport back if needed plus hopefully a destination of a pub or tea shop as part of the walk. It looks as though there are several smaller villages nearby so I'm hoping I'm on track with that location. I'd be interested in any other comments on that if you have the time.
I'm still thinking of going carless and using the bus or train (maybe a day trip to Oxford). We can get our Tolkien and literary fix that way! We've visited several of the towns so I feel like I can relax a bit and not feel like I must see it all. I would like to get over to Winchcombe---any advice there? seems like it might have to be a taxi ride as the connections don't seem too good from Stow on the Wold. Guess I'm getting better at "slow" since I am willing to let go of trying to do everything.
Seems like the rental prices are on peak season that week :/ so I am hunting and believe me will be using your links on Cotswolder.
Thank you for taking the time to reply!
Jane

 

[crayzathomemama]

The only thing I'll add is that when in London, you may be dressed perfectly for outdoors, but when you go indoors, be prepared for how HOT they keep the indoor heat! When my son was in grad school at UCL, we went over in late November and had to shed all our layers down to short sleeves when dining in restaurants or visiting museums. Perhaps it's changed since then (10+ years ago).

Hi Cameron!
Thank you for that info! I'll have to be sure to dress in peelable layers!
Thanks for taking the time to reply
Jane

 

[crayzathomemama]

"Narrow boating is definitely something I'd like to do on one of our trips".
Oxfordshire Narrowboats do day hire, but I'm not sure whether they hire out in January.

Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries and many of them were just left to fall down. The stone was 'robbed out' to be used as building stone - why go to the effort of quarrying stone when there is a ready source available...

Yes sounds like it might be a bit chilly for narrowboats but who knows maybe that's a great time as less crowded and you are running an engine so should be warm--probably more a question of having enough business to be worthwhile. Thanks for the link.
Yes I like to think of the destruction of the the monasteries as "recycling". It is remarkable though to see such incredible buildings reduced to mostly nothing.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Ian!
Thank you so much for your comments and recommendations! I appreciate the time you took to do that. Boy you should be working for the Norfolk/Norwich travel board! It does sound very tempting. Right now I am sticking with the Cotswolds but you have certainly given me something to put on my list. After reading your post I looked into the Norwich area a bit and see there is also lock free narrow boating! Narrow boating is definitely something I'd like to do on one of our trips. Thank you again! Jane

Hi Jane
No worries. The Norfolk Broads are certainly interesting to explore by boat, though having done a holiday there and on the central canals, I can say the differences are significant. Better is personal preference.

Central Canals: Typically navigated by narrowboats, which have definite charm/character, but can feel enclosed meaning tempers can be tested. Scenery is a great mix, from green fields to industrial heritage to ethereal woodland. Mooring up is typically easier with regular smattering of pubs, with plenty of mooring spots. Locks aplenty - when a lot younger/fitter than now, we broke down on consecutive evenings, and when phoning in for assistance the 2nd evening, the person couldn't believe how far we'd traveled taking in 'Heart-attack hill'. We'd been running between locks to prep the next one whilst finishing off the one we were in.

Norfolk Broads: Typically more modern, spacious cruisers - loads more space & easier to maneuver, but theydo lack that historic charm., More rural, no big cities except Norwich, mostly open and quite flat landscape. The added complication of sharing the rivers with sailboats. Fewer pubs and in summer it pays to moor up early as mooring spaces can be very limited. Very few locks, though they do have the bridge that separates north and south navigations, which is subject to tidal timetable.

In short, the broads suits a more chilled, relaxed time, where a view on nature is all the landscape you need, or where locks would be a stress, whilst the canals in the heartland give a more varied experience, sometimes offering a radically different view every hour, yet also having a strange calm of skirting in and out of the bustle whilst traveling at a sedate 4 mph. I felt more stimulated by the canals, but more chilled on the broads.

Regards
Ian

p.s. I definitely recommend the TV series with Timothy West (HenryVIII) and Prunella Scales (Sybil Fawlty) called Great Canal Journeys. It gives not just great insight into such travel, but a very compassionate view on ageing / mental health challenges.

 

[Pauline]

I should have posted a trip report (where have I been I never saw that feature!). I noted your comment in Cotswolder about some of your walks around Stow on the Wold---particularly about the one being muddy and preferring to use the Jarrold's Short walk version. I don't see that book on your resources there. Is it still readily available or should I do a bit of searching before my visit.

You can still post your trip report! Several of us have added older ones that were on SlowTrav.

You can look at the OS Maps online to see footpaths. I have a membership but they offer 7 days free and you could have a look around Stow. Here is the link. I had a look for Stow and there are several lanes you can walk if the footpaths are too muddy:
Lanes around the town of Stow.
Lane to Maugersbury.
Lanes to Broadwell.

The best town with trails you can walk from the town is Winchcombe. Several long distance paths go through the town (including the Cotswold Way). Broadway is also good with the Cotswold Way north to Chipping Campden and south to Winchcombe. You can walk lanes or footpaths up the hill to the Broadway Tower or to Snowshill. But Stow is also a good choice.

To check transportation, use TravelineSW. Buses are not good in the Cotswolds. Many run only a couple of times a day. Use that website to plan out some trips and see what the schedules are like.

Jarrold Short Walks is still available but is called Cotswold Short Walks by Ordnance Survey now. You will find it in the shops in Stow.

Winchcombe is not far by car so a taxi may be a good option. There are not many taxis in the Cotswold so it will be best to order one to take you there and to take you back too. It can be hard to find a taxi on school days when school lets out because they are used to take kids home. I spent a long time once in a little village calling 10 taxi companies and no one could come and get us. Finally I found one from a town many miles away.

For vacation rentals, the weeks over Christmas and New Year are high season. There are several rentals in Stow - with different agencies. Don't get one in a smaller village - it will be too remote if you don't have a car.

Have fun planning!! I am happy to answer any questions. We don't live in the Cotswolds now but we went up for a visit a few weeks ago and had a great time.

 

[crayzathomemama]

Thank you Pauline and everyone! I’ll be doing a little Jane Austen tour—Brighton, Winchester, and Chawton first to be followed by a week in Honey Cottage on Sheep Street in Stow then 5 days in London finishing up back in the Netherlands for a few days to see my daughter’s uni. Sounds like heaven to me.
Thanks again.

 

[Pauline]

Adelstrop is near Stow. Jane Austen visited a relative there who was the rector. I’ve read it was the setting for Mansfield Park. The church she would have gone to is still there.

My notes on Chawton: https://www.sloweurope.com/daytrip/1865/jane-austens-house/