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Ireland in 2018

JustTravel

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This year's travel plans are set, so already thinking of next year's travel. We are thinking of Ireland where we have never been and know very little of, except that husband's maternal grandparents were born there.

The question is whether we should do an independent trip without a car (lots of research needed) or taking a tour like Rick Steve's 14 day tour (pricey but easy). If we do take the tour, we would spend a week in Dublin before hand and a few days elsewhere at the end.

We are also talking about pursuing husband's Irish citizenship but wondering if it is worth the effort. We do spend half of our year in Europe these days.

Any suggestions/comments will be appreciated.
 
We spent 3 weeks in western and southwestern Ireland a few years back. On our own with a rental car. We stayed in apartments and cottages. Very easy to do.
5 days in Headford north of Galway, 4 days in Six Mile Bridge near Shannon, 4 days down in Kinsale, and then a week in Killarney. We enjoyed all those areas very much - so much to do and see. We prefer to spend longer times in smaller areas so as to really explore that particular area. So we did not go to Dublin or eastern Ireland at all - the perfect reason for another visit!
If you want more detailed info on the areas we visited, let me know.
 
My father was born in Ireland (near Galway) and I claimed my Irish passport years ago. My husband was able to get one because of being married to me. These passports are what allowed us to move to the UK. Rules have changed for getting Irish citizenship based on parents/grandparents. Look at your embassy website to make sure there is not a residency requirement. If you want to spend more than 90 days at one time in the EU, the Irish passport will make this legal. I think there is now a residency requirement for spouses to get citizenship.

I don't like tours (but have never been on one so really don't know what I am talking about - same with cruises) so I vote for independent. But you would need to rent a car. Driving on the left is easy to master, but driving on narrow lanes takes a bit of getting used to. Maybe there is some way of using trains and local taxis to get you around to a few smaller places.
 
Thanks, Mom83 and Pauline. We have never gone on a tour (or cruise) either because we do not think that it is something we would enjoy. However, I am considering it for Ireland because neither one of us want to or would be able to drive on the left side/narrow lanes. And according to what I have read so far, public transport is not as extensive as countries like France or Switzerland, etc.

As to the citizenship, husband is eligible so we are looking into it. We are still waiting to receive his grandparents' information from his sister. What I have not done yet is to look into whether I can stay more than the 90 days in the Schengen and what I will need to do to do so.
 
I totally understand your feelings about the driving. If my husband were not so willing to do it, I am not sure what we would do since I would not want to drive either. Another thought - you could travel yourself from one large town to another - hopefully by public transportation - Pauline would know if this is possible. Then you can hire a guide for day trips. Our daughter and her boyfriend were in Killarney for a wedding last July and had a wonderful driver that took them on an all day tour of the Ring of Kerry. I have never been on a tour before either - just not a fan of being on a bus with a group of people on a set schedule. But I know others who only travel that way and love it.
 
I would think that having an Irish passport in Europe is a definite plus but I do wonder what the rules are for the spouse. I have never had to test that one out (My only passport is Irish) as I have not yet exported my English husband to Ireland to live. I think it will be OK as the English and Irish have a special relationship which I believe will continue after Brexit. :) Remember that Ireland (and the UK) is not in the Schengen area.

Travelling by public transportation is not always that easy in Ireland (certainly nowhere near as good as Germany, France and Switzerland) if you are not a teenager with a backpack and you will spend a lot on taxis probably doing things like getting from the train station (not even a lot of those unfortunately!) to the hotel/place to stay. There are local buses but they are few and far between and not always reliable. There are some quite good express buses going from one big centre to the other but you do miss out seeing a lot by not having a car of your own. Hiring a car with a driver is probably your best bet but it doesn't come cheap. I do know of one based near Dublin who has been used by my guests and much praised for his chat and knowledge as well as his driving. I shouldn't think it would be difficult to find names of others in wherever you are staying so you can see more of the country than the immediate area you are staying in, but I wouldn't rely on buses.
 
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I just spent a couple of hours scanning the grandparents' documents, both born in 1888 in Newry, County Armagh. They came to the United States in 1904 and 1906 and went back to visit in 1952 - very interesting stuff! Not sure if we will pursue DH citizenship but very glad to have the information.

I am reading Steve's 2017 Ireland book which I like because he gives a lot of practical tips and information.
 
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Ireland is wonderful and if you are prepared to drive yourself there really isn't any need to do a tour. Buy a good guide book - DK Eyewitness Ireland is a good place to start as t has lots of pictures, decent desacriptoions and reasonable maps. It also covers lots of off th beaten track places not covered by the other guide books. If thinking of next year, you have plenty of time to think about where you want to go, do and see. There is so much history you can discover.

Do you know where your husbands's family came from? Somewhere you might want to include in whatever itinerary you decide on is the Ulster American Folk Park in Northern Ireland.
http://nmni.com/uafp
You can find our pictures here. This is a fascinating place as it traces the history of some of the families who emigrated from Ulster to America. Their houses have been relocated here (or else reconstructed buildigns from America.) you can find out what conditions were like in Ireland, experience what it would have been like on the ships crossing the Atlantic and the problems facing the settlers in a new country. Allow yourselves plenty of time and make a point of talking to teh costumed interpreters who are a wealth of information.

Another interesting place is the National Museum of Ireland - Country Life at Castlebar in County Mayo.
http://www.museum.ie/Country-Life
This looks at the traditional way of life in Ireland since the C19th and has a series of videos taken in the 1950s showing many of the customs and folk lore that were rapidly disappearing. Again it is easy to spend several hours here.

You certainly don't need to sign up to a tour like Rick Steves which is eye wateringly expensive for what is on offer. The Driftwood itinerary looks pretty intensive and I do wonder how long you will actually have at the different places. Neither of them include some of my favourite places - the neolithic toms of Newgrange to teh north of Dublin or the lovley early Christian site of Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains.

Sometimes more can be less as you see an awful lot through the window without actually experiencing it... Ireland is a place to savour and take slowly. You need time to stop and state, talk to the locals and enjoy the Craik in the local bars....

Take ownership and plan your own itinerary. Base yourself for at least 2-3 nights in a place - you don't want to be packing and unpacking everyday. Allow plenty of time for driving - it can be slow in Oreland and be prepared to stop when something catches your eye. you will begin to discover the true essence of Ireland.
 
Thank you , Eleanor. Unfortunately neither one of us wants to drive. We are both retired and we are very slow travelers now (like spending three months in one place). We have never been on a tour. But, we are seriously considering one for Ireland just to get a taste and decide if we want to return for a much longer stay. We will plan on spending around a week in Dublin as well.

The grandparents were both from County Armagh, one from Mullaghglass (Latt) and the other from Markethill. We would like to visit these places, probably hiring a driver/guide.

For a tour, I am liking the Vagabond Driftwood Tour over Rick Steves tour.

Anyway, I am doing a lot of reading and research and continue to seek information.
 
I can understand not wanting to drive, although it does have the advantage of getting you to places often not on the tour itineraries. Driving in Ireland, especially in the countryside is slow. You don't get the boy racers here... I don't drive, but husband was always very worried about driving on the 'wrong' side of the road until he tried it. He then discovered it wasn't as bad as he feared - as long as you start in a quiet area with not much traffic to get used to it. You wouldn't want to start in Dublin! The main issue was to remember each time you start and say "KEEP LEFT".

You can use public transport to get you between the main cities and towns and would then probably need to rely on taxis or hiring a car and driver for a day. There is also the alternative of a chauffeur driven trip but I've a feeling they may be eyewateringly expensive. A google search on chauffeur driven tours Ireland throws up lots of suggestions.

Have you also thought about Rabbies for a tour? They specialise in small groups in a 16 seater bus. The price does look very cheap but you have to add on any entry fees, accommodation, lunches and dinners to that. You can either book your own and let Rabbies know where you are stopping, or else use them to book accommodation for you. They offer a choice from simple B&B's to 4* hotels. They pick you up and drop you off from your accommodation. I've not used them but a friend has for Scotland and said they were good. They are also highly rated on Fodors,another forum I frequent.
https://www.rabbies.com/en/ireland-tours
 
Thanks, Eleanor, for your suggestions. I have bookmarked Rabbies Tours.

Regarding the "not wanting to drive on the left side," still don't want to. I haven't driven in years altho I have a current license and my husband drives very little, maybe 30 miles a year? So, for everybody's safety, we will leave the driving to others.

We spent a couple of weeks in London in 2015 and again in 2016 and we still get confused crossing the street!!! :eek::oops: We return to London for another couple of weeks in April and we'll see how we do. :D
 
In view of your comments. I fully understand why you don't want to drive.

"still get confused crossing the street"
You aren't the only ones. I live in Lincolnshire and crossing streets in London terrifies me!
 
We are booked for this year's travel but starting to talk about 2018 and Ireland is on the list. We are considering an Untours rental as an option. But, if it is as easy as some suggest, perhaps just driving along to the next B&B is to be considered. Not meaning to hijack this thread so my contribution is to ask how soon in the day should one start looking for lodging?

The suggestion to stay a few nights in one spot agrees with our experiences. Too much time is lost packing and unpacking and moving to another spot. We take an apartment for a long time and if we think we might overnight somewhere, take what little you need and relax. And tell our landlord/lady our plan.
 
WannaTravel - doing the the B and B thing and just planning on the day is fine in the off season but I don't know what time of year you are planning to go? In the busier times (May to end of September with the worst times being June to end of August which are school holidays) all the nicest B and B's will likely be booked up if you leave it to the day you are arriving. We did that in a popular hotel last year in Donegal and rang in the morning and got the very last room but we had a bed to go to anyway if it did not work out, in Dublin, so it wasn't desperate if we failed. We considered ourselves extremely lucky. Of course you may get last minute cancellations. It depends how relaxed you are about it. My husband likes to know where he is laying his head that night, after experiences in both in Spain and France where we were getting desperate at 10 0'clock at night finding everything booked out.

If you base yourself somewhere and move out from that, then if you can't find somewhere to stay that night you at least know you have a bed to come back to but I would recommend booking ahead.
 
Untours only seem to cover Kerry, so if you are wanting to see other parts of Ireland you will need to do that yourself.
For ideas for B&B accommodation in Ireland, this is the best place to start.
http://www.irishbnb.com/
You can also use the Irish Tourist Board to book accommodation in advance.
http://www.ireland.com/en-gb/accommodation/

You might also find this page on downloadable broches useful
http://www.ireland.com/en-gb/brochures/

There are so many issues to discuss, it might make sense to start a new thread.
 
I haven't looked up when Easter is yet, in 2019 but you might like to take that into account if it is in April as the roads will be busier around then, being School Holidays and a bank Holiday or two. Between April and October, not much difference weather wise and we could be in for an early or late Autumn or an early or late Spring (who can tell??!) so you could be there at pretty leaf time or bareish trees either way although you will have blossom in Dublin parks in April. The temperatures are equally uncertain until we get there! The theatre festival in Dublin runs until the 15th October if you are interested in that.
 

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