a week in the Peak district

[SusanSeattle]

Next summer, I have a week in England after time with my mom and before I meet up with my family for some additional traveling. After a bunch of searching, I've decided to spend the time in Buxton, in the Peak district. I've wanted to visit Chatsworth House for a long time (and it's not high on my husband's interest list) and I like to be in a place with good countryside walks. I can take the train from London in about 3.5 hours and there are buses that will take me to the other places I'd like to go. I've also found a hotel that looks lovely - Roseleigh at Buxton.

I'm planning on going to Chatsworth House, Thornbridge Hall Gardens, and possibly Haddon Hall. For walks, I'm thinking of the Monsal Trail and Goyt Valley. It also looks like there is plenty to see in Buxton - the Pavilion, the Dome at the university, The Buxton Museum and Art Gallery, to name a few. The Buxton Festival (opera, literary events, music, plays, etc.) also begins at the end of my stay.

I would love to hear if you've been to the area and have any favorite places or restaurants.

 

[Lisa in Ottawa]

I haven't been for years but remember loving the countryside.

 

[jonathan]

Yes, there's lots of gorgeous countryside round there. We've been a few times, but the most recent was in 2007, so my memories are a bit hazy. We've always had our car with us, so I'm not sure of bus accessibility, but I remember Tideswell & Miller's Dale as a lovely, shortish walk.

Chatsworth is the biggie, of course, but don't miss Haddon Hall if you like Elizabethan architecture. It's been used for lots of filming; I was there for a few days way back in 1985, for a deservedly forgotten movie which, nevertheless, gave me lots of street cred amongst my son's friends for having spent much of those days chatting with Patrick Stewart - before he joined the crew of SS Enterprise... It was nice to revisit the place in 07 - we'd recently seen the TV miniseries of Jane Eyre (Ruth Wilson & Toby Stephens: far more convincing casting than in some of the glossier versions, imo), in which Haddon has a starring role.

Bakewell is my favourite small town round there - slightly less dour than Buxton (though I'm sure the latter has more accommodation & eating opportunities).

 

[Pauline]

@jonathan - you talked with Patrick Stewart!! Wow!!

I read something recently about new trails in the Peak District, on an old train line I think. I will look it up and post info.

Deborah, the Dowager Duchess of Devonshire (the last of the famous Mitford sisters) died in September. She ran Chatsworth House. We have not visited, but I have memorized the scenes they filmed there for the Colin Firth version of Pride and Prejudice, and feel like I have been there.

@SusanSeattle - post any interesting links you find during your trip planning. I would like to do some hiking up there too.

 

[SusanSeattle]

Pauline, I think the trail you're thinking of is the Monsal trail. I believe I can take the bus to Bakewell and then walk on the trail to Thornbridge Hall Gardens. These gardens just opened to the public last summer (only open on Thursdays.) As a bonus there's also a Thornbridge Hall brewery and they sell their beers in the orangery in the garden. Then I can take another bus from the town near the gardens, Ashford in the Water, back to Buxton.
http://www.thornbridgehall.co.uk/the-gardens-c38.html

http://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/visiting/trails/monsaltrail

Jonathon, yes I first thought of staying in Bakewell, but the lodgings in Buxton gets much better reviews, and for a week's stay it's nice to be in a place with more food options. As well, it's an easy train ride from London. Plus the festival is there over the weekend. Curious as to why you describe it as dour. As you say, Chatsworth is the #1 house, but Haddon Hall is also on my list.

I've been reading posts on TripAdvisor which have led me to the various bus routes. They look more frequent and useful than ones in other rural areas. I also see this week as a break between the travel with my mom (and Kathy Wood on the Dordogne tour) and the travel with my husband and kids, so I am ok with not being able to do a huge amount while I'm there.

 

[Pauline]

Have you been using www.derbysbus.info to look up bus routes and times? We have a different site for our area (I live in the Cotswolds) and it is really useful for planning walks where we use the bus.

Be aware that because of recent cutbacks, some bus routes may change. Some routes are funded by the local councils, and they have cutback. Our local bus changed November 1 and we were not told ahead of time. So, when you arrive, visit the local tourist office and get the current schedules.

You are right, it is the Monsal Trail I was thinking of. It looked like a very good walk. There was a BBC TV series about Railway Walks. They are no longer available to watch on iPlayer, but here is the description.

BBC Four - Railway Walks
Julia Bradbury has her backpack on to explore the great outdoors. Julia's walks follow the old tracks, overgrown cuttings and ancient viaducts of Britain's lost rail empire, visiting disused lines across England, Scotland and Wales. Through stunning landscapes and urban backstreets, each contrasting walk has a unique story to tell, offering Julia a window into industrial Britain and how the rise and fall of the railways has altered lives and localities across the country.

Julia begins her exploration of Britain's lost rail empire in Derbyshire, the heart of the Peak District, with a walk along the popular Monsal Trail. Limestone cliffs and gorges abound, not to mention the tunnels and soaring viaducts of the Midland Railway - one of the most dramatic and unlikely main lines ever built.

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I think you have a nice week planned and it is a good idea to build in an easy week. Kathy will keep you busy in the Dordogne.

 

[jonathan]

@Pauline there's also the Tissington Trail, another ex-railway line at the southern end of the national park. I've just been having a quick look at Google maps, and I've remembered that our all-time favourite walk is in Lathkill Dale, just north of Youlgreave: really beautiful. We've got OS maps of the area, if you want to take a look any time.

Susan, I think my opinion of Buxton is based on remarkably shallow knowledge As far as I can remember, it's based on just one visit, our first to the area, when we were staying in a B&B in Youlgreave (and hiked Lathkill Dale for the first of several times). But that was way back in 1981, and I seem to remember it was raining in Buxton...

 

[SusanSeattle]

I found the Julia Bradbury series on youtube:

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHX-ZBC_d80


Unfortunately, the Monsal trail walk link actually shows the Cornwall walk, and quickly looking at the other railway episodes, I can't find the Monsal one. But, looks like a great series, and maybe the other episodes will be useful for people.
I've made reservations, first nights at the Roseleigh b&b in one of their nicer lakeview rooms, and the last few nights in a less expensive, but also well rated b&b called Grosvenor house. The Roseleigh b&b also sent me a list of restaurants that they recommend.

I finally finished watching the "Death comes to Pemberly" series on PBS. Really looking forward to seeing Chatsworth House