Pauline
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I wanted an easy week away so decided on the Isle of Wight. It is close to where we live in West Dorset and we’ve never been there.
Car ferries take you from the mainland, across The Solent (the water), to the island in 40-60 minutes (Wightlink). We went across from Lymington, east of Christchurch because it is closest to us. Other ferries go from Portsmouth. I was shocked at the price of the ferry - £200 round trip for a car and 2 people on the Lymington to Yarmouth route. Use booked our holiday rental from Classic Cottages and they give you a 25% discount link to book the ferry so that helped. It was a quick 40 minute crossing.
We traveled on Friday just as a cold blast hit the UK. We had snow flurries in Hampshire driving to the ferry, and again when driving across the island.
The apartment we rented is in Ventnor on the south east corner of the island, a 30 minute drive from the ferry.
This is probably too early in the year for a trip like this but I really wanted to get away. I have been unwell and very low energy since we got home from Switzerland at the end of September. I am doing better now, after a health crisis in October - January (giant cell arteritis, an auto-immune disease, nothing to do with Covid), and am doing better but not back to normal. I was worried that I wouldn’t have the energy to do this trip but we have arrived and are just taking it much slower than usual.
The UK is having a Covid surge. The infection rate is the highest it has been during all this. The drugs I am taking (steroids) screw with my immune system and it would not be good if I get Covid so we brought all our food with us and don’t plan on restaurant, pub or tea room visits. We can do that later at home when Covid is not as bad. We wore FFP2 masks (N95 equivalent) on the short ferry ride. Most people didn’t wear masks.
The apartment is comfortable and in a great location. We have a beautiful sea view and can be on the promenade in 10 minutes downhill. Turn right and walk the promenade to Ventnor, a cute town built into the hillside, or left to Bonchurch, a beautiful village built on the hillside.
Saturday was very cold (low 40s F) but sunny. We were prepared for cold weather and bundled up - heavy wool sweater, coat, wool hat, gloves, scarves. We walked along the promenade into Ventnor. There were a lot of people out and about. We continued on the coast path for another mile to Steephill Cove, a hamlet with a few houses and a restaurant. Then we walked back (4 miles, 2 hours, with lots of up and down).
Looking back to Ventnor. We are staying on the other side of Ventnor.
Steephill Cove.
Today, Sunday, was just as cold and sunny. We walked down to the promenade but this time turned left to Bonchurch. We took the coast path out of Bonchurch but quickly reached a barrier across the path. Usually there is a diversion map but not this time. We followed another path into the village and a man called out to us from his garden. He told us to go back to the barrier and go through it. Then he answered all my questions and gave us very clear directions for the walk I had planned. Thank you!
We pushed around the edge of the barrier and realised it was only blocking off a 10ft part where a steam crosses. Apparently it had flooded recently. We stepped across the stream, pushed through the barrier on the other side and continued.
We visited the old church in Bonchurch, St Boniface, rebuilt in 1050! Saxon origins. Norman and medieval parts in the church. It is not in use. There is a larger church in the village centre. We continued on the coastal path, pushing through another barrier that was saving us from the smallest bit of path that had broken off, going through beautiful woods. This is the Undercliff, sloping woods that grow when cliffs break off, probably hundreds or thousands of years ago. We have this near us in Lyme Regis.
Eventually we came to the Devil’s Chimney, 250 stairs that go straight up to the top of the cliff. Some are carved into the stone, some are new wood staircases. At the top is Smugglers Haven Tea Garden which looked great but was closed. It is a bit early in the season for all these places to be open. Down from our apartment is The Seapot, a casual fish restaurant which gets great reviews, but it too is closed. Several places in Ventnor were closed, but many were open.
From Smugglers Haven we walked back along the main road (not busy and it has a sidewalk) to Bonchurch and walked through the upper village. Bonchurch is beautiful. This is the expensive part of Ventnor. Lovely old cottages on lanes winding down the hillside. The church and a pretty duck pound are in the center. There is a pub and a tea room, the latter is closed. Our apartment is on the edge of Bonchurch. An excellent walk. 3.5 miles, 2 hours, lots of up and down.
Walking up in Bonchurch from the promenade. These houses are right on the water, built into the hill.
St Boniface in Bonchurch, rebuilt in 1050.
Devil’s Chimney, 250 stairs up through the Undercliff to Smugglers Haven.
Looking down over the Undercliff to the sea.
Stairs from central Bonchurch to upper Bonchurch. We didn’t do these.
One of the beautiful houses in Bonchurch. We will do another walk around this village.
The apartment we rented is on the right where you see the table on the terrace.
Car ferries take you from the mainland, across The Solent (the water), to the island in 40-60 minutes (Wightlink). We went across from Lymington, east of Christchurch because it is closest to us. Other ferries go from Portsmouth. I was shocked at the price of the ferry - £200 round trip for a car and 2 people on the Lymington to Yarmouth route. Use booked our holiday rental from Classic Cottages and they give you a 25% discount link to book the ferry so that helped. It was a quick 40 minute crossing.
We traveled on Friday just as a cold blast hit the UK. We had snow flurries in Hampshire driving to the ferry, and again when driving across the island.
The apartment we rented is in Ventnor on the south east corner of the island, a 30 minute drive from the ferry.
This is probably too early in the year for a trip like this but I really wanted to get away. I have been unwell and very low energy since we got home from Switzerland at the end of September. I am doing better now, after a health crisis in October - January (giant cell arteritis, an auto-immune disease, nothing to do with Covid), and am doing better but not back to normal. I was worried that I wouldn’t have the energy to do this trip but we have arrived and are just taking it much slower than usual.
The UK is having a Covid surge. The infection rate is the highest it has been during all this. The drugs I am taking (steroids) screw with my immune system and it would not be good if I get Covid so we brought all our food with us and don’t plan on restaurant, pub or tea room visits. We can do that later at home when Covid is not as bad. We wore FFP2 masks (N95 equivalent) on the short ferry ride. Most people didn’t wear masks.
The apartment is comfortable and in a great location. We have a beautiful sea view and can be on the promenade in 10 minutes downhill. Turn right and walk the promenade to Ventnor, a cute town built into the hillside, or left to Bonchurch, a beautiful village built on the hillside.
Saturday was very cold (low 40s F) but sunny. We were prepared for cold weather and bundled up - heavy wool sweater, coat, wool hat, gloves, scarves. We walked along the promenade into Ventnor. There were a lot of people out and about. We continued on the coast path for another mile to Steephill Cove, a hamlet with a few houses and a restaurant. Then we walked back (4 miles, 2 hours, with lots of up and down).
Looking back to Ventnor. We are staying on the other side of Ventnor.
Steephill Cove.
Today, Sunday, was just as cold and sunny. We walked down to the promenade but this time turned left to Bonchurch. We took the coast path out of Bonchurch but quickly reached a barrier across the path. Usually there is a diversion map but not this time. We followed another path into the village and a man called out to us from his garden. He told us to go back to the barrier and go through it. Then he answered all my questions and gave us very clear directions for the walk I had planned. Thank you!
We pushed around the edge of the barrier and realised it was only blocking off a 10ft part where a steam crosses. Apparently it had flooded recently. We stepped across the stream, pushed through the barrier on the other side and continued.
We visited the old church in Bonchurch, St Boniface, rebuilt in 1050! Saxon origins. Norman and medieval parts in the church. It is not in use. There is a larger church in the village centre. We continued on the coastal path, pushing through another barrier that was saving us from the smallest bit of path that had broken off, going through beautiful woods. This is the Undercliff, sloping woods that grow when cliffs break off, probably hundreds or thousands of years ago. We have this near us in Lyme Regis.
Eventually we came to the Devil’s Chimney, 250 stairs that go straight up to the top of the cliff. Some are carved into the stone, some are new wood staircases. At the top is Smugglers Haven Tea Garden which looked great but was closed. It is a bit early in the season for all these places to be open. Down from our apartment is The Seapot, a casual fish restaurant which gets great reviews, but it too is closed. Several places in Ventnor were closed, but many were open.
From Smugglers Haven we walked back along the main road (not busy and it has a sidewalk) to Bonchurch and walked through the upper village. Bonchurch is beautiful. This is the expensive part of Ventnor. Lovely old cottages on lanes winding down the hillside. The church and a pretty duck pound are in the center. There is a pub and a tea room, the latter is closed. Our apartment is on the edge of Bonchurch. An excellent walk. 3.5 miles, 2 hours, lots of up and down.
Walking up in Bonchurch from the promenade. These houses are right on the water, built into the hill.
St Boniface in Bonchurch, rebuilt in 1050.
Devil’s Chimney, 250 stairs up through the Undercliff to Smugglers Haven.
Looking down over the Undercliff to the sea.
Stairs from central Bonchurch to upper Bonchurch. We didn’t do these.
One of the beautiful houses in Bonchurch. We will do another walk around this village.
The apartment we rented is on the right where you see the table on the terrace.