Cinque Terre. Is it crowded enough in summer to stay away?

[Fedina]

Perhaps you can advise me. It's been 10 years or so since we were last in the CT (hard to believe), and we are planning a family trip to the area with memories of CT hiking and the sea. I've found accommodations are quite full, although there are a number of AirBnB's, and we were considering reserving in Levanto. We've also stayed in Bonossola.
I hadn't researched much because we have gone to the CT a number of times years ago. After just reading the remarks of threads written in the past year or so, I'm reluctant to go at all, and did not realize that cruise ships drop off in La Spezia etc. I have visions of the cruise ship crowds in Venice! Has this also impacted the Lerici area as well? Help. Suggestions??? Thanks!

 

[joe]

After touring the area only once in early November (fantastic, except that the trails were closed), I'd say that I'd never consider a return trip there during high season. Off-season is the way to go with this region. Levanto is a lovely town, BTW, we also stayed there.

 

[Pauline]

We've stayed twice in Levanto and I think it is a good place to stay. We haven't been since 2004 and it was crowded then in the CT towns, but not in Levanto. I too have read that the cruise ships bring a lot more people to the area.

I don't know about Lerici, but I bet everyone heads for the CT. Lerici or Potovenere might be a good option.

 

[Ian Sutton]

FWIW when we went ~ a decade ago (and not in peak season - probably October or May) the coastal paths were really very busy. A shock to me after the often deserted paths on the Amalfi Coast.

If the high paths appeal, these will be mostly deserted, but are quite a hike up the hills, especially in summer.

I'm also thinking that whilst staying away from the 5 villages helps, that's really just a mitigation if the intent is still to make it to the villages.

Are you constrained by flights / other destinations to be in this area? There are some other brilliant places to go walking in Italy, in the countryside, on the coast, and in the mountains.

 

[Colo]

As long-time visitors to the Caribbean, we have become pretty good at avoiding Cruise Ship crowds over the years. Many of the islands, like the Cinque, do not have the infrastructure to support the mass landing of thousands in a single day. As stated above the easiest way is not to go in peak season, but sometimes that is not option.

Careful planning will allow you to have a great vacation and avoid some of the frustration you are concerned about. The most important item you need is the Cruise Ship Schedule for the port (I would guess La Spezia), and then plan around it. There will always be days when a ship or ships will not be in. Those are your hiking days. When two or three ships are in you may want to consider a train to Genoa or some other destination for a day trip. Most of the time we have found that if a single ship is in port it is manageable, but when it becomes multiple it can be very hard to relax.

Lerici or Potovenere are excellent recommendations and in fact, I would rather stay there then in the CT. Or you can beat them at their own game and stay in La Spezia, which is just a short ferry or bus to Lerici and Portovenere, a short ferry or train ride to the CT, and a major train hub for day trips.

Here is a link to La Spezia 2017 Cruise Ship Schedule - hope this helps.

Happy Planning!

 

[Alpinista]

Lerici or Potovenere are excellent recommendations and in fact, I would rather stay there then in the CT. Or you can beat them at their own game and stay in La Spezia, which is just a short ferry or bus to Lerici and Portovenere, a short ferry or train ride to the CT, and a major train hub for day trips.

I would second the recommendations for Portovenere and Lerici. I'm not quite as enamored of La Spezia since it is a much larger urban area and doesn't have the charm of the smaller towns. Making use of the coastal boat service to the CT towns and hiking a portion of the trail (recommend going north to south to avoid climbing the steep stairs at Corniglia) will give you a feel for the scenery without being committed to the tourist crush by staying in one of the CT towns. If you do choose La Spezia, there is train service up and back that you can use. I don't remember if 10 years ago would have still been free access to the Via Dell'Amore, but there is now a fee for use.

As another alternative, we're staying in Rapallo for a long weekend this year and plan to take the coastal walk to to Santa Margherita and Portofino.

 

[Jim Zurer]

I have been recommending that Cinque Terre travelers stay outside the Cinque Terre and go in for day trips, preferably to the higher, less crowded trails. We first went there in 1993 and have returned a number of times over the years....last time we went we saw the cruise ship at anchor off the coast and met crowds in a couple of the villages.

However Levanto is a fine place to base if the Cinque Terre is a must or Lerici, which would be a favorite destination of ours even if there wasn't a Cinque Terre.

 

[Fedina]

Thank you all for your suggestions. We have booked in Levanto. We tend to stay in the Lunigiana and have traveled down to Lerici from there, but haven't been to, or stayed in, the CT in 10 years. It was crowded even in 2000!

 

[Matt D]

Fedina - I think you may be shocked by what's happened to the Cinque Terre. My advice to others is to go if you've never been there before - otherwise stay away unless you enjoy looking at the backs of a sea of tourists' heads. Definitely still worth seeing once. If you day trip in I highly recommend going very early and visiting Vernazza first. In my experience the trail walkers start at either end of the CT and don't get to Vernazza until before lunch. You'll get a glimpse of the peaceful place it used to be if you go early.

 

[Fedina]

Thank you Matt D. Not sure how I've missed the cruise ship issue amongst posts etc., but I've been really rethinking going to the CT at all. My kids haven't been since 2003 and remember the hiking and swimming. Any recommendations for hiking?

 

[Matt D]

Sorry Fedina, I don't really have any suggestions as I've only done the lower CT trails. You'll likely find the trail between Portovenere and Riomaggiore less crowded. It starts above the castle and cemetery in Portovenere. There's also a trail along the sea from Sestri Levante to Riva Trigoso - I've never walked the whole thing.
BTW - You should take my previous comment about the CT with a grain of salt. Plenty of people still love it.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Fedina
Is the CT tied into other Northern destinations in the same trip?
If not, what about the Amalfi coast, where the paths are often much quieter, yet you still get the stunning coastal views. The downsides vs. CT are (IMO) less convenient entry, slightly less 'quaint' villages and the downside of the criss-cross of paths is that you need to do a degree of navigation. For me the upsides are the ability to avoid the people, no train noise, an almost endless combination of routes to walk and a little more variety.
regards
Ian

 

[Alpinista]

.My kids haven't been since 2003 and remember the hiking and swimming. Any recommendations for hiking?

There is a coastal pathway that connects Rapallo to Portofino that my wife and I plan to enjoy this summer during our stay in Rapallo.

 

[Fedina]

Thanks!