Greece

[Jane]

Yes, I just asked about Portugal but also in the running is Greece. Ken and I have been there and loved it, of course. We would like to take Casey as there is so much history there. He likes that kind of travel. For,those that don't know us, he is 15 and has traveled fairly extensively. He doesn't really like kick back travel unless we take a friend with us...which isn't in the cards for this trip. I am not sure what Portugal has to offer in terms fascinating things to see and explore.

My question is for people who have been to both countries. Do you have ideas and suggestions? Which country do you think is best for a 15 year old boy...well, he will be 16 by then. Thanks for your input.

 

[Pauline]

There is a lot of history in Portugal. It was settled by pre-historic people, the Romans came through and it was a big area in Medieval times. It would be similar to traveling in Italy, I think. Many interesting towns and villages.

I have not been to Greece and would love to go there, but it feels to me like more of a kick back destination - at least it is that for many Brits and northern Europeans. I also wonder if it might be too hot in the summer?

You have been to Turkey, haven't you? (I haven't.) Might Greece have a similar feel?

What about Spain? Have you traveled much in Spain? In summer it is probably too hot in the southern part. And France? The summer in the Dordogne or the Lot or northern Provence? Have you traveled much in France?

 

[Jane]

Hi Pauline, when talking about Greece, I am meaning the mainland not the islands which is where most people head. Yes, they are laid back with a few archeological sites but mostly it is kickback (we have been to 3 of them,) Mainland Greece has much to offer in terms of archeology and history, including all the ancient sites (Delphi, the site of the first olympics where there are big ruins and you can run the track, the Parthenon, Corinth, Philip the Great's tomb, ancient amphitheaters and more,) as well as the Meteora area with the old Greek Orthodox mountain top monasteries. Greece is a different history than Italy or much of Western/southern Europe.

Yep, we have been to Turkey and loved it..always meaning to go back some day. It is fascinating and we may have liked it best next to Italy. We have been to France, 3 times but have missed much of it anyway. Spain? Just three weeks there 9 or so years ago. It is always a possibility.

So much to see and experience and so little time. The truth is, I may just be dreaming about this summer as Casey's summer schedule may keep us in the US. If so, we may head to Yellowstone where he has not been. He loves any destination that involves wildlife. He sees his future tis to wildlife, somehow

I hope the ideas keep coming as who knows what will spark the decision.

 

[Dana]

Greece is great—I try to go every year and I have yet to meet a 16 year old who didn't love it. Don't totally dismiss the islands though: you could spend a month on Crete and not see all the archaeological sites, not to mention wild gorges and mountains and a fair amount of wild creatures, flowers and butterflies. Samos and Naxos are smaller versions.. the thing about the islands is that you really should go in the spring or autumn to experience them as islands...July and August can be crazy.

A lovely way to go from Athens to the Peloponnese is by way of the islands of Aegina (lovely early 5th century BC temple of Aphaia) and Poros, then hire a car. And you can easily spend three weeks doing a loop around the Peloponnese visiting archaeological sites (Corinth, Mycenae, Tiryns, Epidavros, Nemea, Olympia, Pylos, Sparta, Mystra, the temple of Bassae, Messene, and the traditional mountain villages and the Mani, Venetian Monemvasia and Nauplio). And those are just the places off the top of my head—there are many many more.

The European pleasure seekers rarely visit northern Greece—Thessaloniki may be the most underrated city in Europe—there's a great archaeology museum, and fascinating very early Byzantine churches with mosaics. Then yes, Vergina with the royal tombs, ancient Pella, Philippi (where Octavion/Augustus defeated Caesar's assassins) the sacred city of Dion under Mt Olympus, the straits of Thermopylae, the gorgeous Pelion peninsula with its traditional villages-in short, lots to see without going anywhere near a beach.

 

[Jane]

Dana, thanks for such thorough information. I had forgotten that for years I have wanted to go to Crete, bad memory lapse. When we were in Greece, we started in Athens and then picked up a car. Drove via the Corinth canal into the Peloponnese where we visited many sites and charming villages. From there we took the ferry back to wherever (forget where), drove to Delphi and up through Greece to Thessaloniki, stopping at many places along the way. It was a very rewarding trip which is why we are thinking of it for our son. He is well-traveled and is drawn to ancient civilizations.

I like the Crete idea as if we do this we will be short on time and so not traveling long distances is appealing. I do envy your life style; permanent travel is a dream few realize. Please send more ideas as you have them. Way out question: have you known in the past a really great travel agent in Athens by the name of Kiki? I worked a lot with her when we were planning our last trip and have often wondered if she is still there.

 

[Dana]

Ah Jane, the reality of being a travel writer isn't quite as glamorous as it might seem—even in our big time travelling days it came out to be about 10 days of library research and writing per one day of travel (especially since we did most of our books pre-internet). Both of our kids always said writing was far too much work for too little money—one ended up doing artificial intelligence and the other is a marine biologist. But both love to travel and see and learn new things, so I think being raised in several countries and being dragged around to ruins, churches and museums didn't do them too much harm.

Crete is great—it really is a mini continent, and if your son likes ancient civilizations, I suspect he'd really enjoy it; the Minoans were extraordinarily sophisticated back in 1600 BC. If you do the mainland, there's now a rather striking bridge over the Gulf of Corinth, a few miles east of Patras, so getting to Delphi is even easier than ever.

Sadly, I don't know Kiki, but she could still be there. In spite of the present crisis, people are still hanging on in Greece and doing the best they can.

 

[Jane]

Thanks, Dana. You are inspiring me. Guess I will do some Crete reading tonight. The bridge to Corinth--yes we went over that. I wasn't too clear when I said the Corinth Canal. The bridge was quite spectacular.

We lived in Italy for a year where Casey went to italian school. He has been to the continents of Asia, Africa, South America, North America/Central America (of course) and Europe and several countries in most of them. So like your kids he has been to his share of museums, churches, ruins, etc. In fact, he would rather do those things than spend time on beaches, etc….unless we bring a friend with us and then it is all about fun. Now, though, his high school camps, mission trips, sports, etc. seems to have pretty much diminished travel opportunities. It was much easier when we could just pack him up and go.

 

[Dana]

Yes, once they become teenagers, it can be tough! Sounds like Casey has had some fantastic opportunities to see the world—I think it's so important for kids to get out, see how other people live and experience other cultures although the distances involved make it much harder for Americans than Europeans. With Casey's interest in ancient civilizations, he might want to consider studying archaeology? It's such an exciting field right now, with all the new technology.

 

[Jane]

Dana, your suggestion of Crete is one we are pursuing as a real possibility. We probably have three weeks, if we do this. We are still contemplating. If we wantsd to send some time on the mainland for Casey, how much time would you suggest for Crete. Areas that we should include. Of course, I will do a lot do ground work but would appreciate your ideas. We have made contact with Kiki's agency but she is retired..Darn. But we do like the agency so maybe will work with them.

 

[Dana]

It will depend slightly on the timing, Jane. When are you thinking of going?

 

[Jane]

Hi Dana! it would be around the middle to late July. On Crete we are not so much interested in beaches as culture and history. This are Casey's priorities, also.

 

[Pauline]

I was planning a trip to Crete two years ago, but we didn't go. I found these vacation rental websites:
http://www.cretecottages.com/
http://www.amazingcrete.com/
http://www.chania-vacation.com/

Post if you find any good looking places. I think Crete will be our trip next April (this April Sicily won).

 

[Dana]

Crete is great- it's the one island that has adopted something like the Italian agriturismos. The wild flowers are amazing in April (sadly not in July, but school holidays are school holidays). Jane, I have a horrible deadline at the moment, but I'll get back to you next week with some suggestions. In the meantime, ahem, I could suggest a pretty good guide that is mostly about culture and history (I see it's exactly what the one person who reviewed it moaned about, tsk!!)

 

[Jane]

Wow, I didn't realize you are THE Cadogan guides. Yes, I will get it, for sure. Thanks for taking the time and I understand deadlines. Yes, school vacations do create problems. We try to do something at Christmas breaks and summer but ven those are becoming difficult. The last three Christmas breaks we went to Egypt/Jordan, Costa Rica, and the Merida side of the Yucatan. Thought about Greece for next year but weather research said not a good idea.

Pauline, friend, thanks for the links.

 

[Ann]

Pauline, there's a good chance that Paul and I will go to Greece next spring. Paul has been there but I never have, and we definitely want to spend a week on Crete -- in April when Dana says the wild flowers are best. Here's an article you might find interesting, and a rental that looks interesting.

 

[Jerr]

Jane - Doug from Ottawa spent a few weeks on Crete in the past few years and raved about it.

 

[Lisa in Ottawa]

Jane - Doug from Ottawa spent a few weeks on Crete in the past few years and raved about it.

I was also in Crete about 5 years ago. I loved it. We rented a little house for part of the time. It was beginning of April and very hot. if you stay awy from resort areas, it is very lovely and unspoiled. I would love to go back. I haven't been to other parts of Greece.

 

[Jane]

Lisa, what areas did you enjoy the most? We will only spend a week there at most. Would love more but have a mission to let Casey visit history. Dana, your book came today. I am enjoying it and learning. It is giving me a better handle on the island.

Today I have been working on plane tickets. It is not fun. Trying to do an arrive Athens, depart Istanbul. Think I will dip into the kids inheritance.

 

[Dana]

Hi Ann, I'm still up to my eyes on my Greek island article but did want to say, as you're buying tickets, the overnight ferries from Piraeus to Chania and Heraklion have very nice cabins and a great way to save a night or two on a hotel room.

 

[Lisa in Ottawa]

Lisa, what areas did you enjoy the most? We will only spend a week there at most. Would love more but have a mission to let Casey visit history. Dana, your book came today. I am enjoying it and learning. It is giving me a better handle on the island.

Today I have been working on plane tickets. It is not fun. Trying to do an arrive Athens, depart Istanbul. Think I will dip into the kids inheritance.

Jane,
We also went to Turkey just before Greece. But it was actually a separate trip just very close together.
Crete, I think our trip was different from the traditional and probably not what one would do with a young person. We didn't go to any of the historical sites. We planned to but then other interests got in the way.
We rented a lovely little house in a smallish village near Chania, Gavalahori and spent the week hiking.http://www.villagecrete.com/ I had a Sunflower Travel guide.The house has new owners but still listed. We adored it and the village. But it was being developed and many brits were moving in. There are wonderful hikes in Crete. We didn't do the Samarian Gorge which is a very well known hike but many similar ones. We went into Chania for 1 day. It is a lovely town on with great cafes and a wonderful harbour.
Then we moved to the other side of Crete to a way more touristed area where Ron was attending a conference. Why can't I remember the name of the town? Anyway, it's large and touristy. But I managed to find a lovely bb perched above the town and the owner told us where to eat avoiding the tourist traps. Sory I can't be more specific.
We drove up into the mountains on narrow winding roads and saw tiny little villages unchanged through time.
We also went to the haunting island that was a former leper colony. A definite must see.
Big enough that there is something for everyone. History, resorts, beaches, cities and villages. One can still find hidden off the beaten track places. Wonderful food. But it gets very hot. We were there in April and wow! But I think it was unseasonably hot. In the summer....well the beaches.