Hiking the Hadrians' Wall Trail

[Alpinista]

By alpinista from Virginia, Summer 2010
Alpinista spends a week hiking the Hadrian's Wall trail in July 2010.

This trip report was originally published on SlowTrav.com.

Background​

When my legs were much younger (and my wife more tolerant of my adventures), I climbed mountains in Europe, Asia, and South America and did long distance hikes in Europe and South America. With children and age (would like to say "maturity", but my wife may read this and post a rebuttal), my outdoors time greatly lessened.

A chance reading in my dentist's office of a travel magazine with a description of the Hadrian's Wall hike got me interested in what seemed the perfect way to put me back on the trail and to combine that with my love of Romano-English history.

I spent time in London before and after this trip, but will limit the trip report to the segment dealing with the hike.

Hiking through history

 

[Alpinista]

Acknowledgement and Some Boring Details​

I am indebted to @PatrickLondon for sharing his trip report and helping out with my travel planning through several emails.

His advice on buying train tickets in advance to gain fare discounts let me treat myself to first class tickets for about what I had planned to spend on my regular rail expenses. I would also note, for those who cringe at the diary type style of writing, I was actually an English major in school (medieval English literature) and am sure that my professors would be horrified at what they turned loose.

This trip was booked through Contours Travel, “Hadrian’s Wall Path”.

Trip Costs

Hadrian’s Wall Path - $435
Extra nights – $40
Single supplement – $135 (9 nights)

Hiking Gear

• Day pack
• Vasque lightweight hiking boots
• Wick socks
• Boot socks
• Gaiters
• Wind pants (Nylon)
• Rain pants (Goretex)
• Hiking shorts (Polyester)
• Under Armour shirts
• Polypro shirt (light)
• Poncho (plastic; for use as ground cloth)
• Rain jacket (Nylon; used to be waterproof)
• Rain jacket (Purchases en route; Goretex; really is waterproof)
• Gloves (light)
• Baseball hat
• First aid kit
• Maps/guidebooks
• Bandana
• Swiss Army knife

Just follow the signs and we'll get there?

 

[Alpinista]

London to Newcastle - July 9​

Here we pick up the Hadrian’s Wall portion of the trip after enjoying a couple of days in London...

Up and out to make the connection from Paddington Station to King’s Cross rail station and had drama after irritating drama along the way. Combine a way too heavy suitcase, a million steps up and down in the various tube stations, a pre-paid travel card that was low on funds, a pocket full of small coins and very large bills, a “top-up” machine that wouldn’t accept credit cards, going to the wrong platform (see “stairs”), missing the first train by seconds, a 15 minute wait for the next one, more stairs, a horribly crowded train when it finally came, and the mangled bodies of innocent Londoners crushed under the wheels of my suitcase when I exited – and it all adds up to me getting to King’s Cross with 15 minutes to spare.

Train to Newcastle is just now pulling out of station; I’m in my first class seat; all is right with the world. Well, except for the part where the only other people in the car appear to be college students who have discovered the fun of drinking beer before lunch and singing all the way to Newcastle (glad I was never that age).

East Coast Rail, first class ticket, London King’s Cross to Newcastle, three hours, £52.

On time to Newcastle; easy connection to Metro and the circuit ride to the Whitley Bay Metro station; short walk to hotel; extremely friendly proprietors – all really right with the world.

Oaktree Lodge Hotel, Andrew Birds, 15 Esplanade, Whitley Bay, Tyne and Wear, NE 26 2AH, Telephone 0191 252 8587 (en suite)

Was greeted in lobby by sight of a guy soaking his feet in a bowl of water. Owner said, “These gents just finished the hike." Guy in foot bath showed me swollen feet with blisters all across the bottoms of his toes. Not sure how he could have walked with blisters of that size, but he managed to get to the end of the hike – good on him!!

Went down the street to get a look at the sea and then back up towards Metro to get a sandwich. Only one table at the store and ended up sharing it with a very pleasant young woman with a brutal Scottish accent – found out she had been born and raised in Germany before going to university in Scotland. She was now a teacher of German at a local girl’s school. Said she had considered returning to Germany to teach English, which gave me visions of generations of German school children learning to speak nearly unintelligible English.

Spent afternoon in Newcastle at Museum of the North with its great Hadrian’s Wall exhibits where I added my electronic stone to the Hadrian’s Wall construction exhibit. Afterward, through St. Nicholas Cathedral and then to the castle. Closed out day at a sidewalk café beneath the Earl Grey monument for two pints of Newcastle Dark Ale and a sandwich. Now back at Whitley Bay and getting my backpack together and repacking the suitcase for daily use – looking forward to getting on the trail tomorrow (and especially liking the part where Contours drags my suitcase from point to point for me; I’ve done a lot of full pack hiking before and this day-pack thing is going to be a lot more fun).

Millennium Bridge - Newcastle

 

[Alpinista]

Wallsend to Wylam - July 10​

Wallsend to Wylam, 15 miles

Sea gulls woke me up about 4am, but rolled over to enjoy rest of a good night’s sleep. Walked down to sea again before breakfast (what is it about the British that makes them think mushrooms, stewed tomatoes and baked beans go with eggs?). In any event, the sun shining on the waves was beautiful. Proprietor told me that despite the sun, there was rain in the forecast, so am carrying pack full of rain gear and wearing boots instead of walking shoes – oh well. Had planned on following the advice in several blogs to wear walking shoes on the paved trail portions though Newcastle, but guess we’ll find out how well my hiking boots do instead. At Metro in bright sunshine at 8:25am – next stop Segedunum Fort and start of hike.

9:14am – on Hadrian’s Wall Trail and headed west! Note for future: Segedunum Fort does not open until 10:00 and patience is not one of my virtues. Took a walk in opposite direction of trail to find a petrol station that served as an alternate site to stamp the Hadrian’s Wall Passport and then got started.

First rest stop sitting on the (swaying in the wind) Millennium Bridge near Newcastle city center and listening to the singing street performer down on the quayside – a little different from hikes in the woods. Boots are doing fine on the hardened (bicycle) trail, so no issue with using them instead of softer walking shoes.

Thanks to the nice folks at the hotel who provided a poke lunch (5£), I have a power bar, an apple, a bag of crisps, two ham sandwiches (cheese, tomato), and a little tart ... not bad.

Have been surrounded by smells along the way – sea in the morning; river at start of walk; wildflowers (especially the honeysuckle); the cut grass of the fields ... and, yes, the diesel fumes where the pathway follows or crosses the highways.

Past Lennington and on home stretch to Wylam where I can’t check in until 4:00 (now 1:45). Probably another hour to walk, so seated at the local boating club watching what may or may not be a regatta. Lots of people sitting on the river bank and five shells out on the water that are (a) lining up for a start; (b) getting blown all over the river by the wind; (c) a bunch of rowers who don’t know how to control a boat; (d) all of the above. Turns out it really was a race – the blue shell won. The other four shells congratulated them by dousing them with water tossed up by oars… ... and they are all now heading for what appears to be an alehouse.

Bistro en Glaze, Laburnum House, Stephen and Natalie, Main Road, Wylam, Northumberland NE41 8AJ, Telephone 01661 852185 (en suite)

And off the trail and at the door of Laburnum House at 3:15. Directions say “Open for check-in at 4:00” and turns out this means the place is dark and locked, which forces me to go across the street to The Ship Inn to have a pint of Kronenberg. Depending on how fast I drink it, may turn into two pints – be attentive to the clarity of my handwriting in the next section for a clue. By the way, temperature in mid-afternoon was 72°; all body parts functioning well after the first 15 miles except, as it turns out now that I’m in the room and see a mirror – my head is sunburned.

Closed out day at Bistro en Glaze restaurant beneath the B&B. Pricey menu; full tables of people out for Saturday dinner. Women all dressed up; men not so much – and me there in a t-shirt and cargo pants. Baked mussels, chicken with lentils and potatoes, Wylam Collingwood Festival Pale Ale. If I were a food critic, I think the word I would use would be “pretentious.” Lots of frills and not much substance to the food. Nothing to do now but watch World Cup third place game, Germany vs Uruguay.

Regatta

 

[Alpinista]

Wylam to Wall - July 11​

Wylam to Wall, 15 miles

Aside from someone in room above me walking on the wood plank floorboards with their boots on at 2:18am, a good night’s sleep. Well, except for the part where the people in the room beside me had dogs that didn’t do much sleeping. Another “full English breakfast” this morning (might even learn to love the sausage before the trip is over). Scattered clouds and sunshine outside and ready to hit the road – might even get back into a coverage zone so that my phone will start working again.

First rest stop of day hunkered down behind a wall of weeds growing on a low bank to get out of the wind. Not sure how hard it is blowing, but enough to knock me off stride when it gusts. Rest of time, need to hold onto my baseball cap (to protect bald head from sun) to keep it (“it” being my cap, not my head) from blowing away.

The odd moment of the day came when I caught up to the first hiker going in the same direction as I. Was planning to stop for lunch at a reservoir and was pleased to see another hiker about 100 yards in front of me as I came into view of the water. The other hiker stopped at the reservoir and my thought was, “Good – someone to have lunch with.” When I got to him, he was spreading his snacks out on a picnic table and now thought, “Weird – he’s dressed like he’s in a storm – floppy rain hat, rain jacket, rain pants, gaiters ... but he also has so much sun screen on his face that he looks like a mime.” But that’s not the weird part. I say, “Join you for lunch?” as I’m approaching the table, whereupon he mumbles something, packs everything back up into his rucksack, and moves to another table.

Aside from that, a very long day of walking. Did about seven hours before getting to hotel, almost all of it into a howling head wind. Did get to see first stretches of actual Hadrian’s Wall along the way. Much of day was a steady uphill gain. Early in day was along a highway, but then got to go through some forested areas and a lot of sheep or cattle pastures. Didn’t help that I had read about hikers being killed by cows in the hiking blogs, but I just kept telling the bovines that I was a vegetarian as I went by (and hoping they wouldn’t know I was looking forward to a steak dinner).

Hadrian Hotel, David Lindsay, Wall, Hexham NE46 4EE, Telephone 01434 681232 (shared facilities)

For now, in a corner room of a little country hotel with view of fields and hills outside window. Had a hot shower and a cold beer as soon as I checked in. Dinner and World Cup in my future (baked cod and chips for dinner - maybe I was feeling guilty about lying to the cows?).

Trail Buddy

 

[Alpinista]

Rest Day - July 12​

Rest day and a 1/2 hour walk to Chesters Roman Fort to get my wall passport stamp and my sightseeing done so that I can blaze on by tomorrow.

Site and museum very interesting but a huge problem – the soap at the hotel was heavily perfumed and as soon as I walked out into the meadow to see the ruins, I was swarmed by the hated midges. To make it worse, no one else was – I must smell like a flower garden to those #&^%* gnats. I was wearing a yellow shirt and it is amazing what an attention-getter a yellow shirt with a couple hundred little black bugs arranged on it can be.

Afternoon surprise was getting to talk to my wife for about 10 seconds and being cut off. Then found my cell phone balance on my Vodaphone card was 0.00 (or, as described by the sales guy in London, “More than you will need”). Spent about 30 minutes going through Vodaphone menus – none of which led to a person. Finally hit the right combination of “push this number” and got a number for a person – whom I could not call since I had no credits. Went to public phone in hotel which kept taking my money, but cutting off during Vodaphone prompts (see above). Finally got back to a real Vodaphone person who told me (a) I couldn’t add credits since I had no UK credit card; (b) that I could top up at any ATM by entering my phone number (ATM’s apparently don’t discriminate); and (c) he was very sorry that the clerk in London had misrepresented the use and usefulness of the card. The desk clerk at the hotel then informed me that the next ATM I would come to on the trail was in Carlisle, 40 miles and three days away.

Drowned my problems in a pint of ale and a St. Anne’s chicken dinner (which looked and tasted pretty much the same as last night’s breaded cod). Dawned on me that beer is a central theme in this narrative - I probably have one beer a week at home ... not sure if it is the variety of choices, the good company in the pubs, or just the desire to celebrate each great day on the trail but the evenings are fun, nevertheless.

Chesters Roman Fort

 

[Alpinista]

Wall to Twice Brewed - July 13​

Wall to Twice Brewed, 12 miles

Can’t be 100% sure, since he didn’t have his face paint on, but pretty sure I saw the asocial mime guy checking out of my hotel while I was at breakfast. Didn’t come across him on the trail, though. Lots of people out today now that we’re into the sections where there are forts and long stretches of the wall. Walked a ways with a guy from Baltimore who was on his first ever trip to Europe. Said he ran a manufacturing company and could never take time off. Was on trail with his late 20’s son and daughter. He was probably in his 50’s and was limping and dripping sweat, so guess I’m doing OK.

Another day of seven hours, but lots of time for photos and wandering about. Stopped at Housesteads Fort for a tour. Highlight of day was the small Procolita Fort. As I was going into the temple with an alter of the goddess Mithra standing at the end, a young man suddenly dropped to a knee in front of his girlfriend and pulled out an engagement ring. I took pride in being the first to congratulate them.

Also took pride in always being the person overtaking other walkers and having no one pass me. Still trying to fight old age. The B&B Saughy Rigg is in middle of a field a mile from the trail. There were 14 other suitcases down by reception awaiting their walking owners, so guess they do a good business.

Saughy Rigg Farm, Kath and Brad Dowle, Twice Brewed, Haltwhistle, Northumberland NE49 9PT, Telephone 01434 344120 (en suite)

Today was almost an entire uphill walk. Nothing very steep, except for a few sections, but just an unremitting slope. Many beautiful views and temperature was around 70, so all good.

One of the pleasures of every hiking day is the transition from the boot and feet and shoulders and pack straps arguing with each other at the start as the various things scrunch and pinch and squeeze and then suddenly realizing that all is well and that you are just sailing along the trail and that everything feels like it has become one with the universe.

Into my routine now of allocating clothes across the days. Didn’t need a full two weeks of regular clothes, so wearing off trail stuff two days each – will find laundry if I notice people avoiding me. Only have three sets of wick socks/hiking socks, so have to wear and wash to get through the seven walking days. Have four shorts and five shirts and four wick underwear, so have to do some washing days there too.

I’ve given up on buying the trail meals prepared by the hotels. I’m used to having peanuts, some dried fruit, and water for a day of hiking. The lunches they pack are full meals. Had Coronation chicken on a roll one day that had enough meat in it (and some mysterious yellow sauce that I probably don’t want to know much more about) to load me down for the rest of the afternoon – plus chips, candy, cookies, and a can of soda.

Today marked third of seven hiking days, but mile 42 day with 42 to go – yahoo!

And, even better, had the best meal of the trip for dinner here at Saughy Rigg. Chicken breast in wine sauce with carrots, baby corn, greens, and boiled potatoes. Blended vegetable soup for first course and a fudge cake with ice cream for dessert. Had a Viper Ale before dinner and a Wolf Ale (“A beer with a Bite”) after. What an amazing selection of beers they have at each bar! Oh, for the record, it’s raining.

Forgot to note what a great set-up for dinner. Wonderfully friendly hostess takes your order and shows you to a lounge with oversize leather chairs where you have a beer and hang out until they call you to dinner in a glassed terrace with an open view of the farmland around the hotel. Then, after dinner, back to the lounge.

Hotels very generous in providing lunches

 

[Alpinista]

Twice Brewed to Gilsland - July 14​

Twice Brewed to Gilsland, 8 miles

One of the nice things about camping is being safe and warm inside a tent when it is cold and raining outside. It is even nicer to be in a hotel with a hot shower and a nice lady in the kitchen making my breakfast when it is cold and raining. Sooner or later, whether tent or hotel, will have to step outside into the rain and begin walking – sigh.

Let me retract that sigh. The rain was done by the time I started (10:10am). Still began in full rain gear, but stripped all that off within the first hour, by which time I had passed the highest point on the trail (345 meters). Day was scenic, but just a downhill slog over some fairly rough ground once passed the mid-point. Lots of people on trail and lots of chances to join up and talk along the way.

Samson Inn, Gilsland, Brampton CA8 7DR, Telephone 01697 747220 (en suite)

Checked into hotel at 2:00 and found several people from last night in the pub. Had a shower and then a pint with the other folks, two of whom are a young couple hiking with dogs and not happy that they have had trouble finding rooms because of animal restrictions. Had dinner with an older couple from London, Kevin and Carol – who had no dogs with them, but still seemed to be very friendly.

Looks like an extremely short day tomorrow (not overly happy w/Contours Travel for the way they broke up this section or with myself for underestimating my ability to move along the trail) but will use it as a semi-rest day. Since I had gone many years between long distance hikes, I had planned both a rest day and two short days using suggestions from Contours. Turns out it looks like it would not have been much of a challenge to just hike straight through. The elevation change that Contours suggested reducing from one day to two appears pretty tame. The way Contours set up the short days expected me to walk three miles past the B&B where I would be staying (literally a stone’s throw from the trail) and then call for a ride back to the residence and to then get a ride back the next morning. The itinerary said two eight-mile days. It is really a five and an 11 without doing the “three miles” past routine.

Salmon fillet in Hollandaise sauce with a blackberry crumble for dinner. Dined with folks I met on trail – delightful evening of beer and travel stories.

Lots of beauty along the trail

 

[Alpinista]

Gilsland to Walton - July 15​

Gilsland to Walton, 5 miles (8 miles in itinerary; see previous page)

Started raining while in pub yesterday afternoon and turned into heavy rain by time I went to bed. Lots of overcast today, but nothing coming down. Weather forecast shows a lot of rain moving across the area throughout the day, but if the hourly maps are good, I might actually get on and off the trail dry. Due to the odd way Contours set up the day, need to leave this B&B as late as possible (checkout is 10:00); kill as much time as possible at Birdoswald Fort (if not raining, will just stretch out on lawn and read for an hour or so) and then check in early as possible at the next B&B.

“Rain” would not be the word for inability to stretch out on the lawn – “torrential downpour” gets closer to the truth. Got about 15 minutes down the road and rain came on quickly – and, just as quickly, found out that my rain jacket (which had worked fine in light rain at home) was not doing such a great job in the pounding rain here. Got to Birdoswald Fort and stripped out of everything and ended up with my poncho on over top of the rain jacket (needed the jacket for sleeves and to block the wind; the poncho to act as a water barrier). Did a splashing tour of the fort and then spent about an hour in the tea shop having lunch and talking to other wet people who were also in there waiting for the weather to break. Bought myself a Hadrian’s Wall Trail t-shirt, the sun came out, and I was able to head out again.

Quarryside, Elizabeth Harding, Banks, Brampton, Cumbria CA8 2JH, Telephone 01697 72538 (en suite)

The delay actually worked out well to put me at my B&B closer to check-in time. Very nice place; British Open is on TV; and, better yet, it is raining again and I’m not outside in it - and a note two hours later – rain has stopped but the wind is roaring – again, happy to be inside, warm and dry.

Dinner (sweet and sour chicken) at the Belted Will pub with three nice folks from Manchester – Colin, Jane, George (a female, despite the name) – all walking while their spouses stay home.

Walking through the mud (thank goodness for Gortex boots)

 

[Alpinista]

Walton to Carlisle - July 16​

Walton to Carlisle, 14 Miles (11 miles in itinerary; continuing to adjust for short days above)

Awakened at 5:00am by sound of high wind and rain. Eventually turned on TV to get weather report which was “Gale force winds with gusts up to 60 MPH” – oh, and rain too. Hope the wind is going to be at my back all day.

Well, it wasn’t. Only about an hour of walking in the rain, but almost the whole day of facing the wind. Was so hard sometimes that it felt like I was pushing a wheelbarrow full of bricks up the trail. At mid-day, sun came out; then rained again; then sun; then rain. Kept rain pants/gaiters on all day, but kept putting on and taking off rain jacket (which no longer repels rain) and poncho – at least up until the point where the wind tore the poncho apart (was a cheap plastic poncho that I just had along to use as a ground cloth for trail meals, but still pretty dramatic to have it tatter). Day was also kind of a boring slog through one pasture after another. The wall is all gone for now and nothing but flat land – some with cows; some with sheep; some with horses – but they all smell pretty much the same. Had a little scenery where the trail went along the Eden River, but not much.

Courtfield Guest House, Marjorie and Eric Dawes, 169 Warwick Road, Carlisle, Cumbria CA1 1LP, Telephone 01228 522767 (en suite)

Got off the trail after six hours at 3:00pm, showered, quick nap, and walked 10 minutes to Carlisle City Centre. Got my next-to-last stamp in my Hadrian’s Wall passport. Went to the cathedral and got to listen to the choir practicing; had a 1/4pounder meal (large) at McDonalds (will pause here while hiking and/or culinary purists gasp) and am sitting in the town square in front of the sun dial clock enjoying the last of the sunshine as the clouds give way to a nice sunset.

Ran into the Baltimore group at the cathedral and the nice British couple from two nights ago (the ones without the dogs) in the shopping district. Kind of scary when you start recognizing people on the street. Found an outdoors store having a sale, so am now the proud owner of a new black rain jacket. Think this will be a beer free night, but am on the lookout for a sweets shop. Only item of note for hiking is a black toenail from a bruise underneath one of my toenails – no pain, but not pretty. If I get through the 84 miles with only that, will be very happy. Town bell just struck six o’clock, so think that is my cue to find those sweets.

Found not only sweets, but also Colin, Jane, and George from last night. Entire town must be walkers from trail.

Getting closer

 

[Alpinista]

Carlisle to Bowness-on-Solway - July 17​

Carlisle to Bowness-on-Solway, 15 miles

Last 15 miles ahead and, as noted, it’s raining again. Weather lady says the rain should be over by 11:00, so will have to see ... oh, waiting for the B&B time for breakfast and it’s now raining harder – much harder. Guess we’ll soon find out if my new rain jacket works or not.

And, to relieve the concern, it did. A day of rain, then sun, then rain, then clouds with patches of blue. Got to point where it looked like rain was over, so took off all rain gear – and then it rained again. Only had about an hour to go at that point, so just put on jacket and figured the wind would dry out my shorts and legs – which it did.

Took a detour to enjoy Carlisle Castle during the morning. Very helpful and friendly people in the arrivals office and was nice to have several feet of stone between me and the rain while I was in there.

Met up with my Manchester friends (Jane, George, Colin) in the afternoon and finished the walk with them. We hit the King’s Arms in Bowness at 4:10 and had first pint on table at 4:11. Met Colin’s wife, Amanda, and truly enjoyed the company of this extremely nice group of people.

The Old Chapel, Maureen and Michael Miller, Bowness-on-Solway, Cumbria CA7 5BL, Telephone 01697 351126 (en suite)

Eventually got showered and rejoined the group for dinner at the King’s Arms – delicious salmon and far too much wine (we deserved it!!).

84 miles from Newcastle

 

[Alpinista]

Carlisle to London - July 18​

Woke up at 5:00am – feel like I should be walking somewhere. Yesterday was another long and visually boring day. Can’t imagine starting from this end and spending the first two days of the hike looking for something to excite you. Also chatted with my other trail friends, Kevin and Carol last night and I’m supposed to share a taxi with them this morning. Took advantage of the early wake up to get everything packed, so nothing to do but wait for breakfast and the taxi and then three hours on the train to rest.

Went down to the Solway shore side at the trail ending pavilion and had the place to myself (along with the doves and seagulls) to just enjoy the water and to reflect on the hike and to scroll through some of the photos – feeling good.

Got involved in a long chat with the landlady’s seven year old granddaughter, Abbie, part of which involved her going to get her box of treasures containing items she had beach combed from the shores of the river ... a tail light from a car; a piece of oddly shaped wood; a chrome-colored piece of plastic ... and when she got to a thumbnail sized piece of porcelain decorated with a blue patterned glaze (that looks like it was once a tea cup), she handed it to me and said, "This is for you to take home." As a post-trip note, this is now in a place of honor on one of my knick knack shelves.

Also got an update from the landlady. They couple with the two dogs was supposed to have stayed here last night, but had called to cancel – were not able to finish hike. She also said there was an ambulance call to the pub last night to rescue a hiker who had collapsed at the end of the trail. Said that the recent hot weather had done in many people who were unable to finish the hike. Said she would be a rich woman if she had a coin for every blister she had seen.

Shared taxi with Kevin and Carol, enjoyed another hour of conversation with them at the train station, and then we were off on the 10:46 train to London. I’m looking forward to three hours in the “Quiet Coach” that I reserved in anticipation of needing a nap. Another post-trip note: Kevin had scheduled a taxi while in Carlisle; Bowness does not have taxi services locally. We departed on a Sunday, which took away the option of using the local bus service to get from Bowness to Carlisle. I believe the combined fare was £30, but I did not make a note of it at the time.

Virgin Trains, 1st class ticket Carlisle to London Euston Station, 3.5 hours, £48

So, to recap, crying baby in quiet car; full train on Sunday service, so they opened up first class to all passengers to claim open seats; announced that because of crowding, could not bring the service trolley along for snacks and food service – but we could go from Car H to Car C to buy food (which meant that I bumped shoulders with more people in the 10 minutes it took me to squeeze by everyone than I had seen on the trail in the past week).

And here we end the Hadrian’s Wall adventure and, once again, become one of thousands and thousands of tourists in London.

Where treasures are found

 

[Alpinista]

Resources​

Contours Travel - https://www.contours.co.uk/hadrians-wall-path-trail
PatrickLondon's Trip Report - https://www.sloweurope.com/communit...ng-the-central-section-of-hadrians-wall.1761/

 

[joe]

Great trip reports, both of Alpinista and Patrick! Thanks for the write-up, even if they were posted "ages" ago. I especially enjoyed the engaging style....
Wishing you both many more adventures.

 

[Pauline]

I loved this trip report because it was about hiking! I’ve had this hike on my travel list for awhile but we will rent a cottage somewhere and just do the middle part. We did this with the Cotswold Way when we lived in Painswick which was the halfway point on the trail. It was a bit tricky getting taxis or buses back to the car but we got to sleep at home, and skip bad weather days. You had a lot of rain!