Hot Springs

[Valerie]

Hey there! Looking for advice on hot springs. We've never really been to any, except a trip to Ischia last winter when they were mostly all closed (surprisingly, because who wants to sit in hot water in the summer?) Anyway. Thinking of a Christmas getaway and would love to soak in the springs. We prefer the outdoor open natural pools to the big sterile medical-type facilities, though a nice hotel spa would be okay. And key would be that it be open (and hot) in winter. If it's a facility, would need to be open during the holiday season. Any suggestions?

 

[Pauline]

We have visited some of the hot springs in Tuscany. Most of my information is old and is over on SlowTrav. I am updating it now for Slow Europe, but don't have anything posted yet.

Saturnia (southern Tuscany, near Pitigliano). These are the most famous of the Tuscany hot springs. You can sit in a sort of waterfall of hot water. We did this (years ago). It is south of town, just off the main road. There is a parking area. Nearby is the Saturnia spa. From what I have read it is nice, not the medical kind. Saturnia is a lovely town with good restaurants and a bit of Roman Road and an arch in town. This part of Tuscany is very interesting. Pitigliano is fabulous. And there are Etruscan Pathways - paths dug into the rock that they used to travel from town to town - nearby. I am making a day trip for them (soon). Let me know if you decide to go there and I can give you more info.

San Casciano dei Bagni (southern Tuscany, near Cetona). The spa here is good. Friends of ours went to it. I like the outdoor natural spring, but it is small. From the center of town, you walk down stairs to the river below. They made two open air pools. They are not deep.

Bagno Vignoni (Val d'Orcia). Lovely little town. The hot water runs out from town across a field and then down a cliff. You can sit beside the narrow channel and bathe your feet. We revisited this one last year. The pool in the center of town is from medieval times and is not in use. The town has several spas and there was a thread about them recently. I will look for it. We have not been to them, but I know several people who have and who recommend them.

There are supposed to be open air hot springs near Viterbo, but I have not been to them. There are also some in the woods in southern Tuscany near San Filipi something-or-other. I will look it up. We visited those years ago, but they were not that great.

Gloria from Pisa has written about hot springs in her area on her blog. There are also some up in northern Tuscany.

If it were me, I would go to the outdoor hot springs in Saturnia and also to a spa in Bagno Vignoni. I think a short stay there would be very nice in winter!!

 

[Pauline]

Here is the previous thread on this - Hot Springs near Greve.

 

[Valerie]

Great, thanks. I'm leaning towards southern Tuscany, maybe Saturnia or San Filippo. Need to see about those around Viterbo but not sure about that area. We've never been to the Val d'Orcia either. Do you have a favorite rental in these areas?

 

[Pauline]

Sant Antonio is outside Montepulciano, which is in the Val d'Orcia and not that far from Bagno Vignoni. My review. This is a lovely estate.

An agriturismo that gets great reviews is Cretaiole. See the reviews on the vacation rentals part of Slow Europe. They also have apartments in Castelmuzio a cute small town outside of Pienza. We spent 3 weeks near there years ago.

Perla Toscana has places near Saturnia.

 

[Valerie]

Cool. Looking at apartments and reviews without knowing the territory is kind of hard, you never know if it's a short drive or a 2-hour squiggly road! This helps. The Hotel Posta Marcucci looks nice, but being the holidays I'd prefer a rental so we have a kitchen and not left without a meal if everything is closed!

 

[Pauline]

The Montalcino-Pienza-Montepulciano belt is a very popular tourist area and there is a good road between them all. The roads in general are pretty good here. It would probably be a nice place off season. We have spent many weeks in that area and I like it a lot. You can get to Monte Oliveto (wonderful frescoes) and Sant'Antimo (Cistercian monestary) - two of my favorite places. Plus more frescoes in that small church between Pienza and Castelmuzio. And Le Foce - and many more things - great hill towns.

You can also get up to Siena (an hour I think).

The area to the south is a little more spread out - longer drives between places. I wonder what they will be like out of season. We have stayed in that area a couple of times - once in Cetona, once in Celle sul Rigo (near San Casciano dei Bagni). It is beautiful too.

 

[Valerie]

So, after much delay and looking at maps and trying to figure out what to do, I'm leaning more towards Saturnia area, becuase I'd like to explore Pitigliano and the tufo "roads" and like the look of the area. Though I haven't *completely* ruled out Bagno Vignoni either. But looking at rentals in this area is hard. The kitchen is important, and I'm surprised at how many have only a cooktop without a oven! Many are modern (read: cement) buildings, which I don't like. Or look cramped in the old town (which is our daily life! Something in the country is more appealing for this trip.) Boh! Not sure and getting eye strain looking online. Anyone stayed in the Pitigliano/Manciano/Saturnia area? Rental recs?

 

[Pauline]

This agency has places in that southern Tuscany area - Perla Toscana. They gave a rental as a prize in one of the old ST contests and Mary (RomeAddict) stayed there and liked it.

We spent two weeks in a house outside of Celle sul Rigo. The towns that I like in that area are San Casciano dei Bagni, Saturnia, Capalbio. Pitigliano of course.

The Etruscan Pathways near Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano (all good towns) are fabulous. Someone just emailed me a link to a video about them (I will start a new thread) and I am working on a day trip for them.

Many vacation rentals in Tuscany do not have an oven - just a stovetop.

 

[Valerie]

Many vacation rentals in Tuscany do not have an oven - just a stovetop.

That's interesting! I've not encountered it that much in other places. Hmm. Since we would be traveling for the holidays we'd want an oven. I mean, Christmas without pasta al forno?!